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| MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline Discussion of engine, tranny and drivelines. |
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![]() | | #81 | ![]() |
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__________________ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2008 Sunlight Silver MS3 GT // Because racecar SOLD Cobb AP || Autotech Internals || CP-e Safe Seals || Bosch 3Bar|| Godspeed FMIC with Godspeed piping || ATP catless downpipe || GT3076R || 3" HTP Intake/Inlet || Turbo Smart Dual Port running in 50/50 || SI Boost Tubes || JBR RMM 80a || JBR SSP || JBR Shifter Bushings || EGR Delete || Corksport LED Lighting || Apexi auto timer || Eibach PK || 18x8 Motegi SP10s || 225/40/18 Nitto NT555 || NGK 1 Step Colder plugs Dynojet 7/6/2013 349.71whp 333lb tq Dynojet 8/2/2013 378.26whp 384lb tq Dynojet 8/31/2013 392.14whp 397lb tq PERM Tuned by Alan and DJ |
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![]() | | #82 | ![]() |
![]() | Not Ranked : 0 score I went cp-e rmm 75 duro! Thanks ! I would have been lost without this thread
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![]() | | #83 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score We want MS6 side mounts from SURE or JBR!! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I just installed the PMM from JBR and its a great quality mount, but has anyone get a whining noise after install? Sounds almost like you hear the belts more inside the car. But other than that its a much needed part. The car feels much better with the mount. No more sloppy shifts! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I had JBR 70A rear engine mount installed and I couldn't bear with vibrations. Having my Spanish neighbors to turn their heads was clear indication that something is wrong And my completely rebuild sound system wasn't appreciating it either. For Chicago city traffic it was really wrong choice. I went with Cork Sport inserts and they are "just good enough" - no vibrations, wheel hop greatly reduced (though not gone completely), shifting smoothness improved big time (I have TWM complete replacement). Last edited by tarnumf; 08-03-2012 at 09:08 PM. |
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![]() | | #87 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Does anyone know what approximate durometer SURE's "street" and "race" bushings are? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score How about the Durometer of the CP-E stage 2 mount? eric |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ricently installed JBR PMM e70. As performance wise, like most of the aftermarket Moutor mounts, it is very nice. When it comes to Vibs and loudiness. Quite a lot of vibs and timing chain noises. They did go quite down but still very noticeable. I am very picky about vibs and excesive noise and the one that we are talking about is not very bad. I did about 200 miles and I hope they go down more, If it is about 30% less from what is is now will be awesome. |
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If u look under the sure section on the forums I have a review there Sent from galaxy Nexus vis xenonHD
__________________ Damond Built Speed 6 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I am so lost on what to get. I would like a mount that has minimal to no vibrations but yet is better than stock because the motor flops all over the place. I do like to use my AC on 90 degree days so it must work well with the AC on too. I read most just upgrade the RMM then others are upgrading them all due to one being upgraded which puts stress on those that aren't. Any ideas?
__________________ 2012 CPW Mazdaspeed3 / Fully Loaded |
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__________________ Damond Built Speed 6 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @johnspeed3 Get the RMM see how you like it. BWT, with the RMM you will pretty much notice not vibs but performance wise it does make difference, especially shifting. They later get the PMM. From my experience( I had all MM) the TMM makes most noise out of all. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Alright awesome, So just getting the RMM isn't going to cause the others that are stock to snap on me? I'm not launching the car or anything at the track/street
__________________ 2012 CPW Mazdaspeed3 / Fully Loaded |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score if you're on the fence maybe 10% off all mounts for Labor Day will help. Web code "worksux" good now through midnight tomorrow. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score hmm, So Im ready to buy a RMM on my MSP 6.. Dont want anything too stiff. i noticed on this thread that people are not really talking about the AWR RMM for the 6.. I believe the JBR one has only the option of going with the Custom 80a Durameter urethane bushing. I kinda would like to stay around the 70 mark... I know any of these is a fantastic upgrade just trying to minimize the vibration part.. Thanks any input is greatly appreciated. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If cabin noise is important to you then you may consider staying stock or eventually use some inserts for the RMM to reduce the engine movement a bit. A 60 duro mount may also be fine, depending on how you actually feel (you may consider acquiring a rubber bushing mount rather than an urethane mount). Anything above 60-65duro is about pure performance and starts loosing any contact with cabin comfort. If you also temper with the side mounts then kiss cabin comfort good-bye. And I'm talking about real cabin comfort, not the "I'm a true man, I can handle it!" kind of comfort. When having upgraded motor mounts usually (but not necessarily) the passengers/driver will feel more tired after medium/long drives (say, 100+ miles) and possibly more nervous than if they had stock motor mounts. There's a very thin line between performance and comfort and it's very hard to follow it. And sometimes you need to throw your money on a motor mount and see how it feels for yourself and if you can take the extra NVH, because every individual will react differently to that. Speaking for myself who I could still hear 20+KHz noises by the age of 30 (normally people loose the ability to hear above 15-16KHz by the age of 17-18) the extra noise coming from a 60 duro mount (urethane or rubber, tested both) is the most that I can take.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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Bottom line: what is acceptable to some people may not be acceptable to you.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah it seems like i will go with the Cp-e mount cause that one is at 60 from what i read? yeah i def wanna increase a bit of performance cause i will do a few upgrades on the car but nothing like changing turbos or something, So i want it to be able to handle the some performance upgrades, and i won't mind a bit of vibrations i know this is too be expected I really appreciate all the info, So i def will go with the 60 version! thanks guys let you know what i think when its in |
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So im a little disappionted but will see, will get it before the weekend. Will drive it right away IM going on a road trip first week in Oct and i wanna bring my MSP6 not the protege hahaha, But hopefully i will break it in by than. Thanks for the tips guys | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I doubt you'll have any problems with the NVH, it's really not that bad. Besides, the improvements brought to the party are substantial enough to be worth it.
__________________ Was a Mazdaspeed6 GT #3476 TiGray slicktop Now in a BMW 135i - double the turbos, double the fun! E82.N54 2009 / BSM / A/T / Drop-in / PR CP / Berk Street / MHD / xHP 340hp / 371tq |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score got the SURE RRM. blue. you can see the difference between the stock and it and i put her on, it wasnt too bad. i definitly recommend a lift or car jack something to lift the engine a tad. and as well something to give you leverage. I stuck a Pry bar between the back of the mount and the Black bar running across the car this allowed me to move the mount Forward towards the Engine Block. and TADDAA!!! Vibes are barely noticeable when driving or Idle, but they are DEF noticable when you turn the A/C on. but Honestly nothing you cant live with. With just a RRM and CAI(so far in the car) HOLY SHIT!!!!!!!!!!! I FEEL LIKE IM DRIVING A TOTALY NEW CAR!!!!!!!!!!!! LOVE IT!!! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score For an MS3, walking the "thin line between performance and comfort" is easy to do, IMO. Get a CP-E Stage 2 RMM and call it a day.
__________________ Stance is not a verb. 2008 MS3 GT 2016 MX-5 Club |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Never noticed this thread, but I've had experience with a lot of the MS6 mounts. Basically a 60-70 rmm and the TT FMM are all most people will ever need and they will not induce much discomfort at all. A few rattles may appear, but that is about it. Side mounts on an MS6 will make life absolute hell, BUT you will need at least the passenger mount when you get into 500HP range. Dustin just ripped his apart on a 3rd gear pull the other day. You can probably still get away with the 70 AWR mount there and be plenty safe, but I had the 88 mount once and made it around the block to pull it back out. Anything above 70 seems to be intolerable to me to drive on the street. I feel bad for the MS3 guys that need tranny mounts because the noises alone would make me sell the car.
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__________________ 2007 Black Mica Mazdaspeed6 GT - Stockness | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score 70 Duro is more than stiff enough on one mount. The RMM doesn't do a whole lot in the overall scheme of things, but replacement is necessary and it eliminates some sloppiness in shifting. The TT FMM is very important along with the passenger mount at some point.
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| Two nuns and a pack mule ![]() Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I love my TTFMM...
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I need a TTFMM.....
__________________ Was a Mazdaspeed6 GT #3476 TiGray slicktop Now in a BMW 135i - double the turbos, double the fun! E82.N54 2009 / BSM / A/T / Drop-in / PR CP / Berk Street / MHD / xHP 340hp / 371tq |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hey, when the OEM RMM goes does it transfer more or less vibrations from the engine to the chasis? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Have anyone here switched from a trz tmm to a JBR one? If so, was there any difference in vibration or performance? I'm still debating whether to make the switch or not.
__________________ Mazdaspeed3 E85 ~ Sold 333/383 Mazdaspeed6 #10018 TiGrey Forged Internals, PTE5858. 2015' Freektuned on 93Octane 322/337 (stock top mount and BPV) 2016' Freektuned on e85/93 480/444 (maxed out 3bar map sensor) 2017' Freektuned on e85/93 525/497 (maxed out pte5858 @ 35/36psi & fueling) Mazda CX-5 AWD Daily |
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You would know.
__________________ Black Mica 2006 Speed6 GT | 62,000 Miles Cobb AP | Stratified Tune Stage 1 OTS | JBR Stage II Intake | cp-e 3'' Straight Exhaust | JBR RMM | SURE AGS 600 Gram Shift Knob | SURE Anchors | SURE Return | SURE SSP/Weight | All Redline Fluids | Shell T6 | Forge V1 ms6db.com I'm Registered. Are You? | |
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Which one would guys you recommend for daily driving with OEM clutch - something more durable but not too much stiffer than the stock RMM? Or maybe only some new inserts with the stock one? | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have the cp-e 75a duros and it's perfect for DD; also eliminated my wheel hop completely. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________ '08 Speed3 - Cobb sri/cp-e rmm/18x8 RX-8 rims (DynoJet @ 254 whp/295 wtq) '99 Miata - Ground Control coilovers/Bilstein Sports/Racing Beat F&R sway bars/Go Miata strut tower brace/Jackson Racing header/MSM muffler/15x7 Kudo Racing wheels |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Guthrie, I think you have a 6, so anything in the 70 range is plenty for the rmm. AWR's works great.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score currently got cs inserts. have had them for a few years and they're great for a cheap, non obtrusive add-on. i'm about to order both side mounts and most likely a replacement rmm as well. definitely keen to have something solid as i'm doing the odd track day, but still want to maintain minimal nvh levels. using jbr mounts as an example; if i went 70's all round along with a tt fmm, could this be a lower nhv alternative providing similar stiffness to 80/88's all round (but without the tt fmm)? Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using Tapatalk 2
__________________ 2006 3MPS Cosmic Blue 2013 CX5 GT 2.5 Soul Red 2019 M140i Mineral Grey |
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If you want minimal NVH and your side mounts are still OK, just start with the CP-E Stage 2 rear mount.
__________________ Stance is not a verb. 2008 MS3 GT 2016 MX-5 Club | |
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i believe they're okay at the moment, but the car is first of the gen1's, 06/06 build. as i'm putting more power through and with more aggressive driving on track days and autocross etc, the primary aim is to avoid dropping the engine, second is hopefully keep nvh as low as possible. Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using Tapatalk 2
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Well I track my car regularly (and have since I got it), and all I'm rockin' is a CPE Stage 2 RMM (after having used the CS inserts as well as a conventional "Stage 1" with both available durometer bushings). I think it strikes the balance you're looking for (at least it does for me). ![]() Take it for what it's worth.
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I might be in the city next weekend during the day time so you can maybe test drive it if you want.
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