Blown engine...

[C9H13NO3_rush]

I need some help... Last Wednesday, 16Apr14, I was headed back to work from lunch break at my house, and as I am coming to a stoplight, I downshift from 6th to 4th going 55mph. No big deal, I've done it a thousand times to slow down and no problems...until then. I had no throttle input, eased into 4th, and slowly let my foot off the clutch. The engine revs (obviously) and once it hits 3200rpm, I heard a pop and a lot of vibration. At first I thought it was the transmission, but as soon as I pressed the clutch, the engine shuts off and nice long trail of oil goes everywhere. I get it to the shop, and turns out, cyl #4 blew a hole in the side (front, above starter) of my block. Now, I can understand throwing a rod under WOT, or shifting into too low of a gear, but on something like that? Its an '06 GT with less than 110k miles.

I should also mention, back in January, I had an accident in the snow. Someone was sliding up the road, sideways, in my lane. Out of instinct, I turn the wheel to avoid a head on collision and narrowly miss my back in from getting smashed. When I corrected, I hit a patch of ice underneath the snow and it slid me into a curb at ~15mph, impacting the front left full on, then the rear left. As a result of that, insurance had to pay for 2 new rims, a new tire, upper and lower control arms, a wheel bearing, and other little things. Ever since then, my car has not been properly fixed and I have been arguing with insurance for 2 months now because they did not fix it correctly the first time. Now this happened. I believe that what happened with my motor is a direct result of that.

If the mechanic cant prove that it was a direct result from the previous accident, then my insurance isnt going to pay for anything. The dealership already quoted me $6800 for a new long block and installation, of which I dont have (not to mention 3/4 of the price I paid for the car). I need help/suggestions/advice and I apologize in advance if there is already another topic like this somewhere else, I just dont have time between dealing with this, work, insurance, and military stuff. Thanks.

[[R]usty]

Damn man sorry to hear that sucks. Do you have any mods on the car?

Also, was it $6800 for just the block or did that include instillation?

[C9H13NO3_rush]

Just the MS cold air intake. And yes, it included installation.

[Scribbles]

You're pretty much fucked. Either buy a used shortblock or get rid of the car.

[Agent_Orange]

That sucks.

From what I've read, it seems most block VTA mods on this platform happen at lower rpm/loads while cruising or under light acceleration, not at WOT.

[C9H13NO3_rush]

Yes, I know about WOT in 6th at low speeds and the possible outcomes. But not this situation.

[Big Dog]

I have to agree with what agent orange said. Most of the time it seems to be part throttle. Sucks but it's the nature of the beast. Where are you located?

[predapio]

Sorry man, hope you can get it sorted.

[Easter Bunny]

The rod was bent earlier in the day. It took a while to fatigue and break this why it went decelerating.

[plak424]

Don't know what you have done, or if you have any intention of rebuilding but if you do check out these guys.

Speed Perf6rmanc3

You might be able to have a block build and then install it for cheaper than the dealership will charge you. Do some research on your options and check out the Speedperf6manc3 section on the forum.

[C9H13NO3_rush]

Originally Posted by Big Dog Where are you located?

Charlotte, NC.

Im weighing my options right now. This is what I believed to have happened: From my previous accident back in Jan., when the front left wheel hit the curb, it sent a shockwave through the axle, through the transmission, into the back of the crank at cyl #4 ; the rod being the weakest [vertical] component in that direct system (if you dont count the minimal endplay distances on the shafts). It must have been very minimal until time finally got the best of it, and it failed. As far fetched as it sounds, its about the only logical conclusion that I can come to because any other way would have catastrophically failed way sooner, if not instantaneous.

[Easter Bunny]

Originally Posted by C9H13NO3_rush Charlotte, NC. Im weighing my options right now. This is what I believed to have happened: From my previous accident back in Jan., when the front left wheel hit the curb, it sent a shockwave through the axle, through the transmission, into the back of the crank at cyl #4 ; the rod being the weakest [vertical] component in that direct system (if you dont count the minimal endplay distances on the shafts). It must have been very minimal until time finally got the best of it, and it failed. As far fetched as it sounds, its about the only logical conclusion that I can come to because any other way would have catastrophically failed way sooner, if not instantaneous.

no

[SuckSqueezBangBlow]

Maybe it is because your car has 110k. Time for a race engine.

[azarashi]

Sucks man, this is always a fear of mine even though I have very light mods on my car this just scares me more bleh.

Did you have a tune on it at all?

[Tubescorcher]

#4 went VTA on me at non boost low RPM with under 5k miles on a replaced new long block. I purchased a brand new long block through my buddy's shop for $3150. I got brand new clutch and new oem flywheel for under $1200. $1200 for install labor. I was quoted almost $8k from Mazda for just engine! Long story to just say Shop Around! Choose to go stock oem or for that price do a Full on Build with the best of everything! Or find used LB and gamble with same shit to happen in the future.
http://www.gearheadengines.com
Have remanufactured MZR 16V Turbo engines for about the price of what used LB's are fetching. Never used them so can't comment on their service. They did call me back quick with a quote.
While motor is out replace clutch & Flywheel either OEM or aftermarket. I know it sucks!!! I've been through ZZB twice in two years. My car is completely stock now and I won't bolt anything on or flash till I'm ready for the proper upgrade path. 1st step being HPFP, 2nd AP, third bolt all my mods back, 4th E-Tune! Good Luck and know your not alone in what your about to go through! Hopefully you can convince the insurance company to pay. Not likely as they're really good at getting out of not paying!!! But Good Luck all the same!!!

[jeopardy98]

Originally Posted by C9H13NO3_rush Charlotte, NC. Im weighing my options right now. This is what I believed to have happened: From my previous accident back in Jan., when the front left wheel hit the curb, it sent a shockwave through the axle, through the transmission, into the back of the crank at cyl #4 ; the rod being the weakest [vertical] component in that direct system (if you dont count the minimal endplay distances on the shafts). It must have been very minimal until time finally got the best of it, and it failed. As far fetched as it sounds, its about the only logical conclusion that I can come to because any other way would have catastrophically failed way sooner, if not instantaneous.

You are kidding, right?

[green99]

i feel your pain. my ms3 just had a similar experiance. only going about 20 miles an hour downshifted to second to turn a corner and boom. nice new ventalation for the cylinder to breath through. now i have to make a decision get a built motor or sell car? Just curious what do you think i could get out of my 08 ms3 black on black with leather bose and about 160k miles. only bolt-ons are cai and ap. also my wife hydrolocked the engine last month on a flooded highway, do you think this could have been the cause of this failure almost a month later?

[pzr2874]

Originally Posted by green99 also my wife hydrolocked the engine last month on a flooded highway, do you think this could have been the cause of this failure almost a month later?

yes

[MSMS3]

Yes. Hydrolock will do it. Water does not compress. It probably hammered the top of #4 piston and bent a rod. Or maybe put a hairline crack in it at a weak point like just below the pin. But, usually you would feel some vibration in the clutch pedal. Not so for a crack that worked gradually into a stress break. The final break frequently does occur under light load.

When this engine is torn down, pay particular attention to documenting, with photos, the piston, connecting rod and crackshaft. A stress crack or break looks different, because the surface part of the break will be shiny bright, but underneath it will be dull, evidencing that the crack progressed over time.

Some insurance policies cover Hydrolock damage since it is caused by road conditions and not wear to the vehicle.

How did you address the Hydrolock at the time to get the car running again?

[Lakespeed6]

Originally Posted by green99 i feel your pain. my ms3 just had a similar experiance. only going about 20 miles an hour downshifted to second to turn a corner and boom. nice new ventalation for the cylinder to breath through. now i have to make a decision get a built motor or sell car? Just curious what do you think i could get out of my 08 ms3 black on black with leather bose and about 160k miles. only bolt-ons are cai and ap. also my wife hydrolocked the engine last month on a flooded highway, do you think this could have been the cause of this failure almost a month later?

Hydrolock would def cause that. Just plastic deformation to fatigue failure, sorry man.
Lesson learned stay away from cai on turbo cars.
If you do decide to go for a built motor I have a brand new built engine from speedperf6manc3 for sale.

[green99]

msms3 i pulled pugs sucked out all water in cylinders drained any water i could find in the intake and changed the oil. i did feel the vibration in the clutch pedal that you where talking about but i thought maybe that was a bad plug since i did drop one of them while i was clearing the water out. so i ordered new ones put them in and my wife drove her car from houston back the the dallas area. she said it ran better but then the next day this happened. its good to hear the insurance may cover this i didn't think they would.

lakespeed6 would kind of price are you wanting for your build engine?

[JgamB]

Originally Posted by Agent_Orange That sucks. From what I've read, it seems most block VTA mods on this platform happen at lower rpm/loads while cruising or under light acceleration, not at WOT.

I'm at WOT a lot, so this reduces my chance of ZZB. Thanks for the inspiration!

[Agent_Orange]

Originally Posted by JgamB I'm at WOT a lot, so this reduces my chance of ZZB. Thanks for the inspiration!

I like your style.

[pzr2874]

I still think that's a pile of shit waiting to be proven wrong....

[aviator79]

Hard to find a working engine for under $2000. IMO buy a new one for $3-4K if cannot find one for under $2k. Add a few hundred for fluids. $100 for engine lift. $200 for tools if you dont have any. Replace it yourself. Find a deal for a rental for like $10/day if you have to.
If you have no way to buy engine then sell it as is and bend over but likely wont be option as you probably still owe on it.
Sorry for bad luck.

[aviator79]

Originally Posted by pzr2874 I still think that's a pile of shit waiting to be proven wrong....

I dont think it will ever be figured out. Only thing we will ever know is that OEM rods (can) fail...probably an air bubble that fatigues it over time. My new theory for today, along with resonance vibration making rods explode.

[memin]

aaaaaaaaand where are you op! update your sh#$

[pzr2874]

Originally Posted by aviator79 I dont think it will ever be figured out. Only thing we will ever know is that OEM rods (can) fail...probably an air bubble that fatigues it over time. My new theory for today, along with resonance vibration making rods explode.

I once thought that too.... but I have no usable mirrors since a LONG time ago.... Monday vs. Friday car... my thought