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 Old 12-23-2011, 07:17 PM   #1
 
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Default Clutch Vibration in neutral?

Howdy, first post, not quite a member of the MS6 family yet, but maybe soon...

I went to look at a 2007 MS6 today to buy on a used car lot. Car has 33k miles. CARFAX report is pretty normal looking, lots of scheduled service and whatnot. So I started it up and pushed the clutch in and out a few times in neutral and I was getting a vibration through the pedal. So then I got on here and started researching and found all this junk about bent rods and crap, so now I'm pretty paranoid about buying it. Does this sounds like the broken/bend rod thing? I've never felt this through any other clutch pedal, stopped, in neutral... Thanks for the help!
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 Old 12-23-2011, 07:22 PM   #2
 
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Need some more info. Does the vibration get worse if you rev up the engine? Does it vibrate when engaged (pedal out) or does it start when you depress the pedal a little? My guess is a bad pressure plate or maybe it just needs to be tightened. I am not a mechanic, just basing my response on what happened with my 94 mustang gt.
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 Old 12-23-2011, 08:21 PM   #3
 
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I didn't notice it just resting my foot on the pedal, only when the pedal was being depressed, most of the way through the travel. I actually didn't even get to take the car for a drive cuz they were about to close (lame, I know), so that's all I know. When I go back and actually drive it, what should I be looking for in terms of horrific potential issues?
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 Old 12-23-2011, 08:26 PM   #4
 
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In the Mazdaspeeds, a vibrating clutch pedal is definitely a red flag. In the cases where people have bent rods, and soon after threw a rod through the block, the first thing they report is a vibrating clutch pedal.
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 Old 12-23-2011, 08:27 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by riderice View Post
Does this sounds like the broken/bend rod thing? I've never felt this through any other clutch pedal, stopped, in neutral... Thanks for the help!
Yes it does.
Ask to test drive it for an hour and pound on it when up to operating temps. It might blow but may be not.
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 Old 12-23-2011, 08:54 PM   #6
 
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Dont buy it...not worth the risk...
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 Old 12-23-2011, 09:02 PM   #7
 
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Run while you can, or offer them 5k.
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 Old 12-23-2011, 09:07 PM   #8
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Don't buy. Post up a link and vin here to help the next guy.

If you get a bug in your ass to get the pretty car, take it to an independent mechanic for complete insection. Compression test, timing chain slack test rattle at cold start, pto leaks, signs of heavy modification.
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 Old 12-23-2011, 09:21 PM   #9
 
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RUN FOREST, RUN
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 Old 12-23-2011, 09:28 PM   #10
 
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ugh, well, so much for that then. I was really looking forward to a MS6 - only $14k with 33k miles, coulda been fun... Too good to be true though, haha. I might still take it for a test drive, I'll make sure to bring the salesguy with me so if the engine explodes he won't blame me! Back to my LegacyGT I guess...
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 Old 12-23-2011, 09:49 PM   #11
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Where is the link to the car?
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 Old 12-23-2011, 10:58 PM   #12
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Tell the dealer to fix it, then buy it for 14k.
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 Old 12-23-2011, 11:00 PM   #13
 
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on my speed 3 the upgraded rmm makes it feel like a vibe but the floor shakes a hair so it can trick you if you dont know.
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 Old 12-23-2011, 11:14 PM   #14
 
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Do not buy that car. While its possible there is a motor mount that increases all vibrations, if the clutch is giving out of synch or moreso than the rest of the cockpit, gtfo. Don't think twice. Search zoom zoom boom on here.
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 Old 12-23-2011, 11:17 PM   #15
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With low miles, gotta know why it's at some ghetto lot, and not on a Mazda showroom. Link please?
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 Old 12-23-2011, 11:23 PM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by Raider View Post
With low miles, gotta know why it's at some ghetto lot, and not on a Mazda showroom. Link please?
car was most likely purchased from auction...that's where most car lots get their inventory.
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 Old 12-23-2011, 11:28 PM   #17
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And dealerships tend to keep low mile late models. Junk and high mile cars are auctioned. It's prolly a pile of shit with 20's and crap.
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 Old 12-24-2011, 07:19 AM   #18
 
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when i was looking around for a ms6 i ran into the same problem. one dealer told me "it has a warranty they will take care of it" bull shit i said. warranty wont cover a pre existing condition, been down that road before. find another one, i finally found a private seller with a unmolested 06 ms6 with 60k on it and its been good. except for the vvt and a leaky transfer case which my aftermarket warranty covered. keep searching or find an ms3, those are simply everywhere.
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 Old 12-24-2011, 08:17 PM   #19
 
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Linky...
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 Old 12-24-2011, 09:00 PM   #20
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Holy shit! Bumpers don't match, or fit for shit, and hailstorm damage. Easy guess windows got broken, so I would see electrical gremlins too. What a piece of crap!

Carfax shows that piece has traveled. Sorrento, FL. Been in Orlando too, back to Colorado. I'd run fast.

Here is the details so Google can log this vin.

2007 MAZDA MAZDASPEED6 AWD
VIN: JM1GG12L171108140
SEDAN 4 DR

Google the vin! That fucker is salvaged! Carfax clean...my ass!

Mazda Mazdaspeed6 Salvage Cars for Sale | 512297

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 Old 12-25-2011, 11:16 AM   #21
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Oh fuck no, thats a $8000 max car with a good engine.
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2006 Mazdaspeed 6

P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG


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 Old 12-25-2011, 12:04 PM   #22
 
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Smells like a future problem for someone. Hopefully no one on here.

Good work Raider

Sticky this thread with DONT BUY THIS CAR.
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Dash08: I don't see the whole pedophile thing, But Predapio is a dirty old bastard. So, I wouldn't rule it out entirely.
That's also why he fits in here. We're all a bunch of filthy, perverted, arrogant, pessimistic, self-righteous assholes who find entertainment at other peoples expense.
What a lovable bunch we are!!
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 Old 12-25-2011, 12:42 PM   #23
6 mods and some Kool-Aid
 
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MSF: we find scammers and expose them. We also find out your test drive is a salvage titled shitbox.
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