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 Old 04-01-2010, 02:01 PM   #1
 
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Default Fuel pump internal/HPFP,really necessary?

saw ppl recommending them after adding some mods,I wanna be safe and not to blow the engine,but don't know if fuel pump upgrade is really necessary for me

Currently running Cobb SRI/FMIC/TBE(catted) w/ AP stage 2++ 93,car spikes to 22psi in high gears and sometimes having the famous irregular partial throttle KR up to 7.7 but rarely anything under WOT,only had stutter/fuel cut problem when it's very cold outside,but didn't really have low fuel pressure problem otherwise so far

for sure it's gonna be safer to have the upgrade,but is it really worth to spend $400-$800(shipped to Canada)on fuel pump with my current setup?
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 Old 04-01-2010, 02:02 PM   #2
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almost everyone will tell you yes.
i'm fully bolted, with an mbc set to around 17-18 psi, without a pump.
so don't take me into consideration.
everyone will tell you yes
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 Old 04-01-2010, 02:03 PM   #3
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if your logs show that your DI fuel pressure remains ~1600 under WOT through the rev range, then there's no point in upgrading. however, the fuel cut when it's cold out sounds like you are, in fact, losing FP, so you should take some logs and see what's up.
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 Old 04-01-2010, 02:32 PM   #4
 
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I had 10k miles on my car, with just intake and dp/rp and had to upgrade my fuel pump. It was fine when temps are above 50 degrees, but cut like a mofo under that.

Fuel pressure was dropping to around 800psi when it was cold.
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 Old 04-01-2010, 04:53 PM   #5
 
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Interesting. I have 1650 - 1750 psi at WOT and can only run 15psi, if I go any higher than that I get massive cut. How the hell are you guys running more boost than that w/o any tuning? I don't know wtf is going on w/ my car haha.
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 Old 04-01-2010, 04:55 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by tbot View Post
Interesting. I have 1650 - 1750 psi at WOT and can only run 15psi, if I go any higher than that I get massive cut. How the hell are you guys running more boost than that w/o any tuning? I don't know wtf is going on w/ my car haha.
all the cars are different.
they behave like little bitches during their period.
unpredictable, irrational, and stupid.
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 Old 04-01-2010, 04:55 PM   #7
 
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temp/weather plays a big part.

I was living in florida, only days where it went to 40 or lower did I have issues, fully bolted.

What that tells me is even if it's 60 out and I was seeing OK pressure, I was still on the limits of the pump. I would recommend one beyond Intake/tune
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 Old 04-01-2010, 05:01 PM   #8
 
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Default Re: Fuel pump internal/HPFP,really necessary?

+1 on gettin pump... Small investment now can save you big time down the road.
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 Old 04-01-2010, 05:04 PM   #9
 
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Well if these cars act like bitches on periods...and I hate bitches on their periods...then I must solely conclude...I hate these cars...sad revelation
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 Old 04-01-2010, 05:08 PM   #10
 
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Default Re: Fuel pump internal/HPFP,really necessary?

Originally Posted by tbot
Well if these cars act like bitches on periods...and I hate bitches on their periods...then I must solely conclude...I hate these cars...sad revelation
I'll still fuck a chick on her period... And eat that shit out too... No red bull needed for my red wings here!
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 Old 04-01-2010, 05:12 PM   #11
 
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I never denied any of the above ^^...
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 Old 08-09-2013, 09:17 AM   #12
 
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so my question is if it is better to get the fuel pump such as:

DeatschWerks DW65c Series Fuel Pump w/ Install Kit Multiple Models (inc. 2008-2013 EVO X / 2007-2013 Mazdaspeed3) 9-651-1009 at RallySportDirect.com

or to just get the internals such as:

Autotech Hi-Volume Fuel Pump Upgrade Kit Mazdaspeed 3/6 2006-2013 / Volkswagen 2.0T FSI 2006-2008 10.127.100K at RallySportDirect.com

or do I need both?
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 Old 08-09-2013, 09:19 AM   #13
 
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You just need the Autotech HPFP not the intank... and next time check the date before you post in an ancient thread.

The forum has a google search, and read your welcome inbox message. The links and stickies give a lot of info.
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 Old 08-09-2013, 09:22 AM   #14
 
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ok sweet, thanks
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