HOW TO build an mzr motor!!

[qtrmile beast]

After I am done posting in the ENGINE PULL thread then I will be loading the pics I have of one of the motors I am building for a customer and some will be random pics of other motors that I have already built but had pics from those builds I could use for this thread.

In this thread the short block is already put together but of you need to know how to install the pistons, rings and rods I can get you the info you need for that as well. AGAIN DONT POST JUST YET as I need the first couple of posts for the pictures and info!!

Ok since most people have their short blocks already done by the shop there is no need to get into the building of the short block. I am going to start with whats after that..

SOME OF THESE STILL PICTURES ARE VIDEOS FYI!!!!

You want to attach the head to the block and here is the sequence that you use.. i suggest that you use ARP SUPER MOLY LUBE which is different than the lube that comes with the ARP head studs. Its better because you dont have to do the torque then loosen and then torque to the head bolts ONCE and not have to torque loosen and then torque again. HERES the head sequence.. Also you will NEED a 12point 12mm socket in order to tighten the nuts up. ARP says the torque should be about 70 ftlbs but i put mine at 80ftlbs.



When applying the moly lube i suggest you put some on the threads of the stud top and bottom. ( I will show you a little trick of how to get the nut on the stud without dropping into the head.. Not going to like it if you do drop it inside the head . This is where a magnet is very handy.

Now off to the oil pump:


Now there are 4 8mm black bolts that hold the oil pump on. Once you have that bolted up then you need to install the oil pump gear and chain with the 10mm stud center. To install the chain you have to wrap the chain around both gears(the inside gear on the crank and the oil pump gear. Then slide both gears on at the same time. You will need a SST tool to make sure that the gear doesn't move while tightening the 10mm center. Make sure when you install the gear you install the chain along with it or you will not be able to install it later.
Once you have installed the gears and chain then you can install the derailer and tensioner. Derailer in the black piece on the bottom and the tensioner is on the top. No special technique to installing these parts.

Now you are ready to install your chain:

REMINDER:
There are two really thin spacers between the oil pump gear on the crank and the outside gear on the crank. Make sure that they are install between the timing chain gear, the oil pump gear and the block its self.

Now with the head on the block and ALL YOUR CAM CAPS ARE LOOSE, if you have not set your car TDC then slowly rotate the crank in either direction you can doesnt matter til it is TDC. WARNING MAKE SURE YOUR CAM CAPS ARE LOOSE WHEN DOING THIS!!!

Ok this is how you can find TDC so you can install your crank bolt..

THIS IS A VID.. FYI

After you have gotten the piston to TDC then you can install your crank bolt like such so that you will not loose TDC..

Once you have found where TDC is then you can install your cams. This is the tool needed to install your cams.

I will have a pic of the cam tool when i find it...

when you install the cams this is how you install the cam caps.. Marked on the cam cap are the letters "E" and "I". "E" for exhaust and "I" for intake also you will notice that there is an arrow on the cap as well. Make sure that all the arrow are pointing in the same directions.


Then you have to tighten them down in sequence just like the head. (WILL POST THAT LATER)
Make sure that when you install the exhaust cam that it doesn't have the gear already on it. This is needed to install the timing chain. Now you can install your timing chain guides. Then install your chain on the inside of the timing chain guides and then put the timing chain around the exhaust gear and then place the gear on the cam and lock it down. I believe it is about 45lbft(need to double check that) To hold the cam still you can use a 15/16th wrench and hold the center of the cam still while using a torque wrench to tighten.. Then install your tensioner and you are done!!!


More info later as this is getting closer to the fun part!!!!

[qtrmile beast]

ok it has started.... i have to take some more pics as i can't find some of my pics for this but i will post them..

[holeinmypocket]

nice my short block will be done this week...this thread makes me excited

[burntmushu]

cam gear is 51-55 ft lbs..
and if using cp pistons here is the ring gap spec...
mazda mzr ring specs.
top ring: 0.019-0.023 thousands
second ring: 0.024-0.029
oil ring: 0.015

I called cp piston directly and this is the gap for making around 400-500 hp. if your goal is higher i believe is a larger gap.
OP. Sorry but your post does say how to build mzr so thought i this info would help people who are looking and are looking for this info.

[Downmented]

@Captain KR lulz