Leaking something out of the transmission/transfer case I think.

[scnewt]

Not sure what is leaking but its colored like motor oil. Anyone have an idea? I don't have a lift or I would crawl under it. I have been noticing clunking noises when I turn the wheel and between shifts when its cold.
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[ckMS3]

Could be a ripped cv boot.

[scnewt]

On the axle?

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[keymaster]

Odds are your transfer case is leaking. I just went through that, mine was leaking up where the driveshaft goes into it. Check if you have oil in the transfer case (if it's low fill it up), clean it up, and drive it for a bit...if the case is leaking the oil will reappear. It may take a while to do so, depends on how bad the leak is. If it's leaking it has to be resealed or replaced.

[sandyms6]

Originally Posted by keymaster Odds are your transfer case is leaking. I just went through that, mine was leaking up where the driveshaft goes into it. Check if you have oil in the transfer case (if it's low fill it up), clean it up, and drive it for a bit...if the case is leaking the oil will reappear. It may take a while to do so, depends on how bad the leak is. If it's leaking it has to be resealed or replaced.

Sorry to thread jack but im also having the same issue with the t-case leaking from where the driveshaft goes in. Temecula mazda is claiming I need a new t-case, was wondering what parts did they install when you had yours serviced? I assumed it was just the seal that goes around the shaft and now there telling one piece is warped and causing things to not line up. Ill get the exact part # they say is warped their master tech was off yesterday and no one else had a clue what was going on.

[scnewt]

Ouch... sounds expensive.

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[Mistersix]

It is. Mine has been leaking for some time. I think most refer to it as a weeping transfer case. Because it just kinda weeps out slowly. Anytime i get under the car its always coated with oil.

There are some threads about a CX-7 transfer case that fits, is a little cheaper and more readily available.

[scnewt]

Damn, is it worth it to fix it or can I just top it off periodically? Also how likely is it to break again?

Thanks!

[keymaster]

Originally Posted by scnewt Damn, is it worth it to fix it or can I just top it off periodically? Also how likely is it to break again? Thanks!

Mine was done under warranty (I have an extended warranty from when I bought the car, lucked out there)...it cost me $125, but it's a $1-2K job. I'm sure you can top it off, but getting oil into the case is a bit of a pain. It also doesn't hold that much oil in it (a bit more than a quart), so a bad leak will go through it somewhat quickly...and not having oil in your diff is a bad thing.

I haven't heard if anyone has had to redo the case once it's fixed, but it's not something I'd just let go on for too long.

[g0pher]

not sure of the placement of the tcase on the ms6 but out of curiosity how far away is your oil return on your turbo from the tcase location? i had the same problem (on an evo however) and it was coming the return. apparently older audi's were known for this as well?

just a guess...

however after reading the thread apparently it's a known issue so i'd go with faulty seal

[scnewt]

What about the clunk?

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[Mistersix]

Describe the clunk in fine detail. I had a clunk, and it was resolve very simply.

[scnewt]

So the clunk happens when I turn the wheel about 1/4 turn. I can feel it in the steering wheel more than I can hear it. Theres also a clunk when I let out of the clutch and sounds like a "see saw".

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[keymaster]

Is the more of a click in the steering wheel? That's the spring in the wheel, mine made noise so I had it replaced under warranty...it still clicks once in a while. Get someone to turn the wheel while you're outside the car and see if you can follow a sound or feel something elsewhere in the car.

The see-saw sound is probably just something needing a bit of grease, maybe the pedal or else the linkage. Not sure what the clunk is...does that only happen when you're going into gear or even just sitting still pushing the pedal in and out?

[scnewt]

I actually heard it again this morning... it happens letting out of the clutch or going in and out of the gas... like it has something to do with the motor twisting under torque. It quits when the motor is warm

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[scnewt]

I had a thought today, what if the noise is caused by the gears in the transfer case, since its leaking maybe the gears don't have oil on them until I run it for a while. That would explain why the noise goes away after its warm.

[keymaster]

It's hard to say without being there. You can try posting a video, from inside and outside the car...maybe someone can identify the noise from that. You need to check if there is any oil in the transfer case, or just get the car in to be checked out.

[scnewt]

Ok, I might try to do that tomorrow.

[Mandinca]

Pivot shaft seal maybe ?
I just replaced mine as it was leaking tranny fluid out of the top and running down to the underside of the tranny.
Seal was $8 and took under an hour to do with no special tools. Buy some instant gasket as well to re-seal the plate that the pivot shaft goes through.
There's a "how to" on here that tells you what to do. (if it is the pivot shaft seal of course)

Seal is Mazda OEM part number A60117131

[scnewt]

Well it may not matter anymore... I was ran off the highway the other day and hit a guard rail with my drivers door. Pretty sure my car is totalled.

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[keymaster]

They only resealed mine, no other hardware was installed. I haven't been under it yet to see if there is anything still leaking, but I haven't seen anything on the ground. I had mine done at Riverside Mazda, it might be worth it to take your car up there and have them check it out.

[Mandinca]

@scnewt;

Assuming you get it repaired that clunk that quits when the engine is warm is one of the engine mounts. Probably the passenger side mount.
I replaced mine two weeks ago.
Have someone stick their head under the hood over the mount while you rock the car forwards in first gear with the e-brake on, they'll hear it if that is what the problem is.
My symptoms were like yours, it made a creaking sound but only for the first half mile or so then it stopped.
To change the mount you will need to put a jack under the engine to support it, you’re not trying to lift the engine, just hold it in place while you replace the mount.
Unbolt the mount, if it’s a MS6 then you’ll have to wiggle it out as it gets caught up under the brake pipes. Also, if Mazda have done any work they have probably torqued the shit out of the two nuts and bolt that hold the mount together. I had to take mine to a shop to get them to loosen them half a turn.
The three bolts that hold the mount to the car are easier.
Anyway, the new mount fits right in, I got mine from Rockauto.com for about $45 incl shipping I think.
Torque all the bolts up, drop the jack and you’re done. Half an hour at most.

For the clunk in your steering wheel :
I had a similar problem with mine, the dealer undid and re-torqued everything but couldn’t figure out what was wrong. Someone told me to repack the grease in the steering column. Undo the steering wheel tilt clamp and pump the wheel in and out ten times, pump it up and down ten times as well. That might work.

Good luck. I hope you get it repaired.

[scnewt]

Well I fixed my car the easy way... Bought a new one! Wasn't by choice though. I was hit on the interstate and totalled my car.

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[Mandinca]

Covered under the other driver's insurance ?

[scnewt]

Hit and run

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[Mandinca]

Asshole.