Mazda crank pulley tool vs Ford crank pulley tool

[SPEED6 KILLAH]

I have found a better crank pulley tool to hold the crank pulley while tightening up the crank bolt to torque down . I think this will be a better tool to hold the crank pulley. So we hear about anymore loose crank bolt loosen up.

[jracer]

whats the cost on this ??
or u rent it out ?

[laxplayermjd]

more info please

[MSFer87]

Found used ones on ebay for $50.

[LiEast]

O that's nice could have used that whiled ripping my crank bolt tight

[SPEED6 KILLAH]

Originally Posted by LiEast O that's nice could have used that whiled ripping my crank bolt tight

This tool is cool a lot better then that mazda one..

[biochrome]

Just picked up one of these from ebay for $22 + $7 shipping.

After I'm done rebuilding my timing, if anyone needs to borrow it let me know!

[theschrum]

Originally Posted by biochrome Just picked up one of these from ebay for $22 + $7 shipping. After I'm done rebuilding my timing, if anyone needs to borrow it let me know!

Have you used it yet? I may want to borrow it.

[Lex2007]

Originally Posted by biochrome Just picked up one of these from ebay for $22 + $7 shipping. After I'm done rebuilding my timing, if anyone needs to borrow it let me know!

$22?! What? I see only $160 range on ebay.

[sidekick]

Originally Posted by Lex2007 $22?! What? I see only $160 range on ebay.

He must've gotten lucky on a used one, because the cheapest I see is $120.

[biochrome]

Originally Posted by Lex2007 $22?! What? I see only $160 range on ebay.

Originally Posted by sidekick He must've gotten lucky on a used one, because the cheapest I see is $120.

Yeah, I guess I was lucky! I got it from this auction HERE ...which is now long over, but maybe you can contact the seller? When I got it, I paid exactly $22.39 and $8.05 shipping. From the look of that auction, it apparently went up in price a bit?

No clue why this has gotten so expensive - but as I said before, if anyone wants to borrow it, let me know (no, I won't sell it, sorry ).

Sorry for disappearing for so long, but I'm here again - let me know if there's a need.

[ztnedman1]

Originally Posted by biochrome Just picked up one of these from ebay for $22 + $7 shipping. After I'm done rebuilding my timing, if anyone needs to borrow it let me know!

Mechwarrior Cougar!! I used to do serious work in that bitch.

[Celestspeed3]

Just use the TDC plug with a small bolt through the pulley to the block, i thinks its an m6x1. I've had good with that so far.

[MSFer87]

Yeah after doing the VVT kit, timing, etc I def. don't think you need this, but if you want it can't see why it wouldn't hurt.

[Nitr0EngiE]

I need one of these right now

[speed3 britz]

@maisonvi; didnt you need one of these?

[maisonvi]

Originally Posted by speed3 britz @maisonvi; didnt you need one of these?

I did, but I got it sorted out without it

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[JDMCRX]

Thanks for this going to look at buying instead of building one !!

[biochrome]

Originally Posted by JDMCRX Thanks for this going to look at buying instead of building one !!

If you need to borrow one, let me know man.

Though if you're talking about cutting/cnc'ing one, that'd be awesome (and people would probably want to buy some from you).

Someone making these one one of those fancy metal... cutting... 3d printing... laser... things could probably make a pretty penny

[maisonvi]

Originally Posted by biochrome If you need to borrow one, let me know man. Though if you're talking about cutting/cnc'ing one, that'd be awesome (and people would probably want to buy some from you). Someone making these one one of those fancy metal... cutting... 3d printing... laser... things could probably make a pretty penny

Get me measurements and I can see about knocking a few out for people.

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[biochrome]

Originally Posted by maisonvi Get me measurements and I can see about knocking a few out for people.

Okay, I'll try to take a look when I get home. I can also mail it to you if you want to look yourself.

Coming from a non-fabrication-savvy-person: are you going to be doing this on some sort of computer-driven thing? And if so, would you be able to provide a... file or something, so other people can make them as well?

[maisonvi]

Originally Posted by biochrome Okay, I'll try to take a look when I get home. I can also mail it to you if you want to look yourself. Coming from a non-fabrication-savvy-person: are you going to be doing this on some sort of computer-driven thing? And if so, would you be able to provide a... file or something, so other people can make them as well?

Yeah it would be CNC machined if i can do it. If I can't cut it, I can upload a 3d file or drawing for people at least

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[JDMCRX]

Im going to ask one of my mechinst buddies here on base if he can build a few . See if its something simple

maisonvi that would be awsome if you could. Let me know if you make some.

[Tomas]

The OTC spanner works perfectly fine.





And for the TDC peg you can use a 14.1 dog point stud with a lock nut. It's hardened so it will break and not bend or deform.

[Nitr0EngiE]

Originally Posted by Tomas The OTC spanner works perfectly fine. And for the TDC peg you can use a 14.1 dog point stud with a lock nut. It's hardened so it will break and not bend or deform.

i tried that exact tool from Amazon its a peice of shit and simply bends and torques around instead of holding the pulley still, even when bracing against the floor it simply starts separating on me and in the end the entire tool got deformed and bent.


I will get a tool like Killah has before i touch my timing again.

also for the tdc peg..............(i think i said this somewhere already)

its best to get a fully threaded bolt and when its in place you put a Nut on BOTH sides of the bolt, one on outside to keep it from going further in and I was able to put another nut on the inside of crank to keep it from pushing out of the threads of the block and keep threads from stripping.

to do this i set the tdc with a normal peg first and then remove it and install the bolt and lock the outer nut and then move the crank out of the way and use your leet finger skills to put a nut on the other way and i used a flat head and a hammer to tighten it against the block(you cant use wrenches or sockets, no space)

and then put the oil pan back on with a few bolts to strengthen the block to make sure then whole thing dont simply snap on you

Last time i timed engine before i used the double nut on both sides the crank pushed the bolt out of the threads and stripped my threads so now I have no choice but to nut both sides but I recommend people start doing this because those threads are really the only thing holding everything still with the crank resting on it.

[Tokay444]

Originally Posted by Nitr0EngiE i tried that exact tool from Amazon its a peice of shit and simply bends and torques around instead of holding the pulley still, even when bracing against the floor it simply starts separating on me and in the end the entire tool got deformed and bent. I will get a tool like Killah has before i touch my timing again. also for the tdc peg..............(i think i said this somewhere already) its best to get a fully threaded bolt and when its in place you put a Nut on BOTH sides of the bolt, one on outside to keep it from going further in and I was able to put another nut on the inside of crank to keep it from pushing out of the threads of the block and keep threads from stripping. to do this i set the tdc with a normal peg first and then remove it and install the bolt and lock the outer nut and then move the crank out of the way and use your leet finger skills to put a nut on the other way and i used a flat head and a hammer to tighten it against the block(you cant use wrenches or sockets, no space) and then put the oil pan back on with a few bolts to strengthen the block to make sure then whole thing dont simply snap on you Last time i timed engine before i used the double nut on both sides the crank pushed the bolt out of the threads and stripped my threads so now I have no choice but to nut both sides but I recommend people start doing this because those threads are really the only thing holding everything still with the crank resting on it.

You also tty'd your crank bolt to 180* instead of 90*. Maybe that has something to do with it.
Once you torque to 80ft/lbs, all timing tools are to be removed for the tty to 90* anyway.
I don't see why there is so much fail being reported. The procedure is highlighted quite well in the manual.

[Geo13]

@biochrome; do you still have the crank pulley tool available to borrow? I'm in the middle of doing my VVT swap and ran into an issue with using the bolt to hold the pulley in place. Let me know, any help in this matter would be appreciated.

[biochrome]

Originally Posted by Geo13 @biochrome; do you still have the crank pulley tool available to borrow? I'm in the middle of doing my VVT swap and ran into an issue with using the bolt to hold the pulley in place. Let me know, any help in this matter would be appreciated.

Shit , sorry, yeah, I've got it. PM me your address and I'll mail it to you.

Originally Posted by Spec Would you mind sending me the file if everything works out.

The tool file for 3d printing is here: Crank Pulley Tool

[Tomas]

So many discussions about the crank pulley tightening process.
And so much fail along the way.

[Nitr0EngiE]

i want one

[maisonvi]

If someone sends me one I will draw it up and load a cad file for people to use. I will see if my machine shop at work can make me some as well (and what that would cost)

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[biochrome]

Originally Posted by maisonvi If someone sends me one I will draw it up and load a cad file for people to use. I will see if my machine shop at work can make me some as well (and what that would cost)

PMing you, I might be able to mail it out today. Y'know, if you'll mail it back to me after

[Spec]

Originally Posted by maisonvi If someone sends me one I will draw it up and load a cad file for people to use. I will see if my machine shop at work can make me some as well (and what that would cost) Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

Would you mind sending me the file if everything works out.

[leo766]

hey this might be a stupid question, since this thing doesn't look too sturdy, but what about this tool:

MST-90499 MasterCool Universal A/C Clutch Holding Tool 90499 - tooldesk.com

[frothy]

Originally Posted by leo766 hey this might be a stupid question, since this thing doesn't look too sturdy, but what about this tool: MST-90499 MasterCool Universal A/C Clutch Holding Tool 90499 - tooldesk.com

Wrong tool for the job.

Short handle...

Looks flimsy...


The hole in the center is likely too small for a 21mm socket to pass through... (EDIT: Confirmed. Largest socket that will pass through in a similar model is 15mm)


The MUCH beefier OTC tool mentioned earlier above gets the occasional complaint about the pins shearing off under torque. If people are shearing the pins off of a tool used for its designed application, what do you think will happen if you use a less robust $20 AC clutch holder?

Don't waste your time/money...

If you're trying to be frugal, just borrow the correct tool from AutoZone.

[Tomas]

Yeah you won't be able to hold the pulley with that thing going the 90 degs.

[GroceryGtr]

I used the Otc spanner tool several times with no issue. Just make you have the flat bar on top and the curved piece on the bottom. Majority of the torque gets transferred towards the front of the engine and into the long flat part of the tool. If you do not hold it snug against the pulley you will shear off the pins.

[leo766]

can anyone think of a reason this wouldn't work? only 40$ and if anything bends on it, i would be surprised, assuming its steel

Harmonic Balancer Holding Tool | OTC - SPX | 6495

or even

http://www.toolsource.com/chrysler-h...-p-131876.html

granted it wouldnt hold it in both directions

[GroceryGtr]

Originally Posted by leo766 can anyone think of a reason this wouldn't work? only 40$ and if anything bends on it, i would be surprised, assuming its steel Harmonic Balancer Holding Tool | OTC - SPX | 6495 or even Chrysler Harmonic Damper Puller Holding Tool | Astro Pneumatic | 7823 granted it wouldnt hold it in both directions

The first one should work, the 2nd looks like its for a 3/8s bar which I would strongly recommend against , you just need to make sure the pegs fit inside of the circumference of the crank pulley and they are deep enough for the lip to clear the pulley arms. I didn't see measurements on the page so not sure how you would verify. Those are the SST tools FCA uses for most of its engines and I've used that style numerous times for Hemi crank pulleys. You'll need a very long half inch breaker bar though for leverage. and I don't mean 18" and I DO mean 1/2". FYI I'ved used that to install and remove pulleys. It works just fine for both directions.

[Don]

I Have a socket from Matco that will take off any crank pulley bolt. It's powered by magic and it really works. I havent found a car yet that it hasn't worked on with a electric impact gun. I use it on Honda and I'm not kidding when I said it's magic.

https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/p...LANCER-SOCKET/

You can get it in different sizes