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![]() Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: charles co, MD
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(Thread Starter) | Neutral : +2 score Lets begin, First might want to prep the car by draining all fluids(transmission, motor oil and antifreeze). The transfercase is sealed so you don't have to drain that. When you drain the tranny use a 15/16th wrench to get in there as a socket will not have room with the frame about 2in away from it. The Powersteering will be debatable as you can pull the engine with out disconnecting the lines from the Powersteering pump but FYI when i installed my engine back in my car i damaged the return side of the bucket with a hair line crack and while not knowing that i was leaking the pump lost all fluid and burned the pump up and also soaked the belt and caused it to tear to pieces almost leaving me stranded. So if you do not take the lines loose and choose to leave the pump connected then BE VERY CAREFUL when pulling the engine out and also installing the engine and make sure that there is nothing pulling on that line as that bucket is real fragile. It also cost about 60 bucks from the dealer if you catch it before you burn up the pump.. Ok so after you have jacked the car up and drained all the fluids, next you want to start pulling the air intake off the car so that you can get to the wire harnesses that are located under the intake. The car that i used in the HOW TO was not stock so some of this info is for a car with bolt ons already done. Once you have the intake off you will be able to see all of these harnesses really clearly!! This is pic of the wideband harnesses as there are two This is a pic of the secondary 02 as it has only a single harness After that you can disconnect the reverse and neutral switch harnesses After that you can disconnect the shift linkages. To do this you can take a simple screwdriver and place it on the underside of the shifter cable head and shifter and pry it off. It usually pops off pretty easy. After you have gotten all this taken care of then you would want to get the rest of the harnesses In this picture you can see the relay that was used to get rid of the CEL from the VTCS delete.. More info on that later Last edited by qtrmile beast; 07-26-2010 at 05:53 PM. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Ok now we are ready to do the intake manifold again this is modded car so there might be some stuff missing that other wise would be on a stock car. I believe there are about 9-10 bolts that hold the intake manifold on... First you want to take the throttle body off.. these are 8mm bolts There is a third one just to the right of my hand in the pic as well as the ones i am pointing to.. This one you will have to feel for it as you will not be able to see it..what is that shit in his intake i have no idea as it is not oil. I think he can respond to this as i think another tech took the intake off and used some sorta sealer on it... This one you will have to pull the powersteering pump to get to this bolt Then you will need to take EGR pipe out of the intake. Not you can take both ends out or you can just take the side that connects to the intake and leave the motor side on there. For me i took the entire pipe out.. You can also use the 15/16th wrench on this as well.. There are three 12mm bolts that takes the powersteering pump off and i am sorry but i realized that i didn't take a pic of where the bolts are for the powersteering. I will get that picture when i putting the motor back in. But there are two on the top and one on the bottom. Also there is a harness on the top as well.. Now once you have the intake manifold off you will be able to lift it up and be able to see some more harneses.. there is a harness on the right side of this between the two coolant hoses. Not seen on the pics here is the pic of that harness Last edited by qtrmile beast; 07-28-2010 at 06:52 PM. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score ok here is the underside of the car..... first take the front control arm off ONLY on both sides. Then take the lower bolt out of the fork for the strut. Both the control arm and the lower fork are 17mm... Once you have gotten those loose then get you a HEAVY hammer and tap this axle loose from the transfercase(WARNING: watch your aim while banging to be sure not to hit the transfercase as that is aluminum and easy to crack) Once you have gotten that loose then you can get a long handle pry bar and pop the axle out on the driverside. Once you have gotten the axles loose then you can just pull the spindle outward on both sides and this will pull the axles out of the transmission and the transfercase far enough to clear and be out of the way so you do not have to take the axles completely out of the car. If you decide to do so then the axle nut is a 36mm... Next take the drive shaft loose... There are 4 14mm nuts and bolts that hold this on. The bolts should be pointed to the rear of the car!!! Take the nuts off and push the bolts through the other side. Next is the slave cylinder ok i think you guys can post if you want or if you have questions of any kind. I am not finished with all the pics that i have i just have so much info to post i am doing it in spurts. I will post more late as i have time!!! i can use this post to post the rest of the info i have. I am sorry as i was doing this all by myself and so i missed a few pics but i will get those pics taken when i have to install everything back in the car. Last edited by qtrmile beast; 07-27-2010 at 11:43 AM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score thank you so much for your time spent on this |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Very nice/detailed, thanks for taking the time to post this up. Eventually do you wind up taking it out through the bottom? I think I remember reading in one of the Mazda manuals they recommend only removing it from the bottom of the enginebay. |
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![]() | | #6 | ![]() |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
more pics and info to come | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score O M G Thanks so much Charles, hahaha! I fucking love you. Anthony will do whatever sexual favors you desire from this day on.
__________________ 500awhp 440awtq uncorrected ![]() EFR8374 ms6, no meth, 50/50 e85, and IDCs in the 90's @ 500+ awhp, with room to grow... fifth port winning. Count down to head lift.... 3.... 2.... 30r ms3 dd on deck, has fuel... needs top mount turbo lovin' next... Check out the hair Salon: www.permtuning.com |
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FYI i did this all by myself no ummmmmm SUPERSKATER!!!!! taking pics and pulling the engine took me about 9 hours pulling into my driveway to having the engine on the ground!!!! But in his defense i didn't call him either | |
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| Captain ![]() Join Date: May 2008 Location: Rio Rancho, NM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hahahaha, i'll call him for you next time. I'm sure it'd be nice to have an extra set of hands on alot of stuff man. Plus he'd probably kill for the experience. I know i would.
__________________ 500awhp 440awtq uncorrected ![]() EFR8374 ms6, no meth, 50/50 e85, and IDCs in the 90's @ 500+ awhp, with room to grow... fifth port winning. Count down to head lift.... 3.... 2.... 30r ms3 dd on deck, has fuel... needs top mount turbo lovin' next... Check out the hair Salon: www.permtuning.com |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score stupid question: is this a MS3 or MS6 ? You mentioned driveshaft so I'm thinking MS6. Nice job and thanks for the effort !
__________________ 2013 Mazdaspeed3 Gen2 Mods: Cobb SRI, Tip, Turbosmart BPV, Cobb AP, Cp-e DP, CPE HPFP, CPE RMM, PTP Kicker Mount |
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| Captain ![]() Join Date: May 2008 Location: Rio Rancho, NM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score This is an ms6.
__________________ 500awhp 440awtq uncorrected ![]() EFR8374 ms6, no meth, 50/50 e85, and IDCs in the 90's @ 500+ awhp, with room to grow... fifth port winning. Count down to head lift.... 3.... 2.... 30r ms3 dd on deck, has fuel... needs top mount turbo lovin' next... Check out the hair Salon: www.permtuning.com |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
DJ: i have another motor to pull in a couple of weeks and also i have to put my motor back in and also yoichis so....... Plenty of opportunity to learn!! | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yep that is my Car. No wonder it took so dang long Charles......you were snappin all these pics....lol
__________________ ![]() 2003 E39 ///M5 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score sweet each thing i read seems like its easier and easier keep any new pics coming!! looks good man
__________________ 2008 RED MS3 GT>>>T3 GT35R .82 A/R>>>Tial 44 EWG dumping>>>SteedSpeed T3 Mani>>>Built Motor PERM! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score awesome write up |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Very nice. I might refer back to this when I do a clutch. Great write up man!
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Stuck....... Was thinking about moving to the "How To" section...... what do you guys think? Leave it here or move it?
__________________ BB code url is no longer allowed.........so..... http://www.fuelly.com/driver/FreeFlyFreak/speed-3 http://www.fuelly.com/driver/FreeFlyFreak/speed-3 Suspension: OEM --> FSD 4040 --> FSD 4040 with cut stops --> MS Coils --> FSD 4045's --> FSD4045 with cut stops --> Bilstein Sports Yes, that is me in the avatar. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score U have to remove motor to do clutch??
__________________ In progress: Engine: Built long block by Keefover. Keyed crank,keyed cams/VVT,Crower 65lb valve springs,Wiseco pistons,Manley H beam rods,AFI t3 stock location mani,Comp turbo CT4x 53-56,Kozmic 6th port PI with 2200cc bosch injectors,N2MB WOT box,Relentless ported intake mani,Kozmic oil feed line,Custom oil return line,Ramfab 3.5" intake,Ramfab alum. crash bar,Ramfab IC piping,TR10 IC,Saiko Michi and JBR dual custom catch can setup, Guardian angel v3 with 4bar map sensor,Dual Deatschwerks in-tank fuel hat with bigger pickup,-6an nylon braided fuel lines,Fuel labs FPR,SP63 3 port EBCS,Mishimoto oil cooler, HKS SSQV1,BSD,Autotech FP internals,CPE injector seals EGR delete,TB coolant bypass delete,M2 Ebay DP Suspenion/Bracing: Sonic tuning CO's revalved by Feal Suspension, QA1 600lb rear springs, 750lb front Swift springs,AWR front and rear sway bar endlinks,Whiteline RSB,SPC front adjustable ball joints,GT spec ladder brace,SU rear interior brace,NRG harness bar. Drivetrain:SS brake lines,SS clutch line,Carbotech ax6 F&R, Southbend STG 3 endurance clutch and flywheel,SU rear diff mount,SU front rear diff mount,SP63 TC caps,DSS rear axles,AWR Trilogy mounts 70A,Hubcentric centering rings,2" brake ducting F&R,TWM STS stg 1 with bushing kit Interior:Redline custom shift boot,Redline custom steering wheel cover,Redline custom ebrake handle cover Bride Stradia V.2 rep seats,Corbeau seat brackets,JBR heavy shift knob,Custom LED gauge cluster,Custom Steering column dual gauge pod,AEM wideband failsafe,AEM oil pressure gauge,Schrothe Rallye 4 harnesses,Escort 9500ix with mirror mount and hard wired with external controller,DIY ipod adapter. Exterior: STI front lip,Enkei PF01SS 17x9 +48 wrapped in Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R's 245/45/17,Full clear bra,Muteki SR48 blue locking lug nuts,RHO side plate mount,Smoked side markers, Shark fin antenna |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score No you don't but i unless you are taking the subframe off on a lift it is going to be FUN getting it out from the bottom. If you guys want a transmission (speed6) pull photo how to i will do one after the next one i pull...!!
__________________ Best time is 12.28@112 with a 1.68 60ft "GONE HUNTING BE BACK IN 11 SECS" 365HP and 333 TQ AT 20Psi gt3076 7 blade track weight 3220 street weight 3370 fully built motor//carrilo rods//cp pistons//ACT 6 puck//all mounts//gt3582 turbo//CPE manifold//ported intake//h&r coils//brembo brakes//tr10 I/C//accessport |
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so you have to take the sub frame off to get the trans. out the bottom for a clutch ??
__________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] 2013 EVO X GSR Wicked White w/Areo H&R springs/H&R 15mm spacers MAP modified 3" Magna Flow cat back MAP catless testpipe MAP UICP Grimmspeed 3 port Cosworth filter SSP relay kit TWM Desert Eagle shift knob AEM wideband gauge Prosport boost gauge EvoX piller pod 30%Tint Slowpoke Tuned 339hp/336tq **** SOLD ***** 2006 speed6 " A woman's asshole is like a 9-volt battery..U know its wrong, but sooner or later ur gonna put ur tongue on it !! " | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yes!! will not come out through the top..
__________________ Best time is 12.28@112 with a 1.68 60ft "GONE HUNTING BE BACK IN 11 SECS" 365HP and 333 TQ AT 20Psi gt3076 7 blade track weight 3220 street weight 3370 fully built motor//carrilo rods//cp pistons//ACT 6 puck//all mounts//gt3582 turbo//CPE manifold//ported intake//h&r coils//brembo brakes//tr10 I/C//accessport |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Charles your car looks great in your sig man.
__________________ 500awhp 440awtq uncorrected ![]() EFR8374 ms6, no meth, 50/50 e85, and IDCs in the 90's @ 500+ awhp, with room to grow... fifth port winning. Count down to head lift.... 3.... 2.... 30r ms3 dd on deck, has fuel... needs top mount turbo lovin' next... Check out the hair Salon: www.permtuning.com |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score qtrmile- I pulled a MS6 motor out, Instead of pulling the manifold in the car. to get all the wires undone, I undid the plug and 2 other wire connections from the fuse box. Was a little easier to unbolt everything out of the car, Just meant wire harness came out with the motor. BUt i did unbolt the Radiator support to give a little extra room to work with. since i know the Mazda book says to fully remove it from the car and bring motor forward. But then that means removing more things, but was able to bring it forward and down to give a little easier to get to ac pump and stuff. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Nice! Imma need this! Sent from my iPhone using lame ass Tapatalk
__________________ ![]() [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
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How long did it take you to pull the engine.......
__________________ Best time is 12.28@112 with a 1.68 60ft "GONE HUNTING BE BACK IN 11 SECS" 365HP and 333 TQ AT 20Psi gt3076 7 blade track weight 3220 street weight 3370 fully built motor//carrilo rods//cp pistons//ACT 6 puck//all mounts//gt3582 turbo//CPE manifold//ported intake//h&r coils//brembo brakes//tr10 I/C//accessport | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score when i did mine i pulled the front off the car and brought it straight out forward,very easy to do and was fully out,new flywheel and cluch fitted,put back in and aircon gassed in 6 hrs.will be doing it again soon when i do my rods,pistons,bsd,dp so will take pics then which may also help as an alternative for you guys |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i wouldnt be reviving this if i wasnt about to yank my motor but you said you took the axles out...did you do that because you pulled the tranny out too or did you have to do it so you could maneuver the motor around easier?
__________________ 06 MS6 |SP Built motor - Weisco Pistons .020" over, Manley H-Beam Rods, Ported Head, Ported Intake, VTCS Delete, BS Delete, VVT Actuator, Keyed Crank, 6th Port Fuel Injection | ACT 6 Puck w/ Streetlite Flywheel | Bullseye S259 .70 A/R Single Scroll | 3.5" Intake/MAF Housing | Steedspeed Twin Scroll T3 Top Mount Manifold | Tubosmart 40mm EWG | Custom DP | Custom TBE | Custom LTA Intercooler | HKS Type IV TT | Dashhawk | COBB AP | AWR RMM | PTP HPFP Guts | KILLAH BUILT |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yes i pulled the tranny and everything. Made life easier putting it back in...
__________________ Best time is 12.28@112 with a 1.68 60ft "GONE HUNTING BE BACK IN 11 SECS" 365HP and 333 TQ AT 20Psi gt3076 7 blade track weight 3220 street weight 3370 fully built motor//carrilo rods//cp pistons//ACT 6 puck//all mounts//gt3582 turbo//CPE manifold//ported intake//h&r coils//brembo brakes//tr10 I/C//accessport |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Bumpity Bump.. How many steps are there after that last step? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @qtrmile beast; Bump. Which bolts are you undoing in this picture in the write up ? Also, do you disconnect the A/C or can the engine, tranny and transfer case be lifted out around it ? I think I might have to remove the front end so I imagine the A/C will need to be removed. Any other steps after the last pic in the write up ? |
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Steps left.... Well then you connect your chain to the engine removal hooks. First one it located just above power steering pump. The second one located on the back side of the motor to the right near the HPFP. Once you hook your chain up leave just a little bit of slack about 6 in from the valve cover. This is done so your hoist will not need to go so high before actually pulling the engine out. When you hook the hoist up hook closer to the powersteering side so that just like the in the pic your engine will come out at a slight angle. DONT MAKE THE ANGLE too much because it will make it more difficult to come out because the crank pulley will jam against the frame of the car and you will have to start over and reangle it. once you have it hook in the right place then you can proceed with pulling the motor mounts (ie passengerside, rear and tranny) once you have those removed then the motor will be resting on hoist. Just slowly crank and with every crank make sure nothing is about to hit or get jammed up. Once you get it high enough your are going to need to pull the engine slightly forward because the turbo and the driveshaft will get caught under the firewall. This is the reason for pulling the intake so you will have that room to do this.. After you have succesfully gotten pass all that then your motor should be free to come out!!
__________________ Best time is 12.28@112 with a 1.68 60ft "GONE HUNTING BE BACK IN 11 SECS" 365HP and 333 TQ AT 20Psi gt3076 7 blade track weight 3220 street weight 3370 fully built motor//carrilo rods//cp pistons//ACT 6 puck//all mounts//gt3582 turbo//CPE manifold//ported intake//h&r coils//brembo brakes//tr10 I/C//accessport Last edited by qtrmile beast; 10-22-2013 at 10:23 AM. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @qtrmile beast; OK, I thought of something else due to my noobness. How does the clutch operate ? In the good old days you pushed your foot on the pedal and a cable pulled a lever on the transmission which operated the clutch. Not so these days it seems ? I see there is a master cylinder to be unbolted.....do I need to drain clutch fluid at all or does the master cylinder operate a piston which pushes on something in the transmission which operates the clutch ? I'm trying to avoid any suprises on engine swap weekend. Thanks again. |
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If you think you will need my help i can pm you my number and you can call me if you have any issues..
__________________ Best time is 12.28@112 with a 1.68 60ft "GONE HUNTING BE BACK IN 11 SECS" 365HP and 333 TQ AT 20Psi gt3076 7 blade track weight 3220 street weight 3370 fully built motor//carrilo rods//cp pistons//ACT 6 puck//all mounts//gt3582 turbo//CPE manifold//ported intake//h&r coils//brembo brakes//tr10 I/C//accessport | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score OK, getting ready to do this this weekend. Another question, sorry. Those drive shafts - you make it sound like they just “pop out” once that 17mm nut and bolt at the bottom of the fork is out. I’m reading some horror stories about how stubborn they can be. What actually holds them in ? Is there a C clip that sits in a groove (I’m reading some posts that suggest there is). I have a 2’ pry bar and also a pickle fork which I am reading will help. Just wondering if there is some kind of technique I should know about. Do I need to compress this C clip I’m hearing about ? If so, how ? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Recently having done this, I would add the following disclaimer, hook up hoist before removing any motor mounts and take off rear motor mount first. I come from a different platform that when you take the motor mounts off the car rests on the subframe. I realized this before and had everything hooked up. When you take the last mount off you can have a sudden drop of the motor. Also, if you're like me you'll just want to start taking off bolts and might remove the upper mounts before the lower one which could be dangerous with you under the car at that point. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________ Fuck MSF |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Was there ever a clutch guide made? By the way that was a very informative post. Thank you I learned alot. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @qtrmile beast; Nice write up, Thanks! I read on one of the other MS6 forums that you've pulled quite a few MS6 engines. I'm starting the removal process and was hoping you could help me make some decisions. Have you ever disconnected the tranny and pulled just the engine out? I know you said it was easier to get back in as a single unit, if you could elaborate on that I'd really appreciate the input. I've seen other people who remove the radiator/rad-support, have you ever gone that route? It looks like it gives a ton more room to work, and I'm thinking the only real drawback to this is needing to vent the AC system. I can't tell in the hoist pic, but I'm guessing you left the exhaust manifold and turbo attached? I'm doing this in my home garage so I'm just looking for the path of least resistance (i.e. limiting cursing and bloody knuckles).
__________________ _______________________________________________ Driver Mods - Mid Ohio Three Day Racing School 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT - 130k+ miles. Daily driver (Actually my Wife's car) Shooting for a reliable 350 AWHP. Surefire Remanufactured Engine Installed @ 135k. Mods: BNR S3 Turbo \ Grimmspeed EBCS \ Guardian Angel \ Cobb AccessPort \ Bosch 3 Bar MAP sensor \ AWR RMM \ TurbineTech FMM \ Corksport HPFP \ cp-e Injector seals \ Autolite XP5263 plugs \ Ebay Circuit Werks DP \ Stock CBE \ HTP 3" Intake w/ DIY CAI \ cp-e TMIC \ DIY boost tubes \ Primary & Secondary EGR delete \ Bilstein Shocks \ 215/45ZR -18 Continental ExtremeContact DWS PERM dual PVC plate and two Damond Motorsports catch cans. Full vacuum setup w/ VTA for over pressure. PERM #1 -> DM OCC V1 -> DM PCV valve -> Check Valve -> Intake Manifold. PERM #2 -> DM OCC V2 w/ VTA -> Check Valve -> Tee -> Valve Cover & TIP. The others: 2009 BMW 135i - N54 - JB4 w/ backend flash \ SRI. 1998 VW GTI VR6 - 248k miles (stock clutch!) when wrecked (not my fault) ![]() 1995 Jeep XJ - 4.0 - AW4 \ Lift/Tires etc. 230k miles. Rust bucket / winter beater. 1995 Honda del sol VTEC - DIY hodge podge turbo setup \ self tuned w/ Neptune. 2550lbs ~270whp \ 150k+ miles on stock bottom end (4th clutch though) \ knock limited on 93 octane. |
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I have done it all ways... other than without the tranny still in there. IF you do that way if might come out pretty simple but going back it might make you pull your hair out. Can it be done sure... would i do it that way no way...
__________________ Best time is 12.28@112 with a 1.68 60ft "GONE HUNTING BE BACK IN 11 SECS" 365HP and 333 TQ AT 20Psi gt3076 7 blade track weight 3220 street weight 3370 fully built motor//carrilo rods//cp pistons//ACT 6 puck//all mounts//gt3582 turbo//CPE manifold//ported intake//h&r coils//brembo brakes//tr10 I/C//accessport Last edited by qtrmile beast; 10-16-2014 at 11:57 AM. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @qtrmile beast; Oooooo, Moar Pics. Thanks! Questions.... 1. Do you prefer taking the front bumper/rad/condenser out, or does it not make much of a difference? 2. That last pic w/ the lift, did you drop the motor out the bottom? If so, how easy was that by comparison?
__________________ _______________________________________________ Driver Mods - Mid Ohio Three Day Racing School 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT - 130k+ miles. Daily driver (Actually my Wife's car) Shooting for a reliable 350 AWHP. Surefire Remanufactured Engine Installed @ 135k. Mods: BNR S3 Turbo \ Grimmspeed EBCS \ Guardian Angel \ Cobb AccessPort \ Bosch 3 Bar MAP sensor \ AWR RMM \ TurbineTech FMM \ Corksport HPFP \ cp-e Injector seals \ Autolite XP5263 plugs \ Ebay Circuit Werks DP \ Stock CBE \ HTP 3" Intake w/ DIY CAI \ cp-e TMIC \ DIY boost tubes \ Primary & Secondary EGR delete \ Bilstein Shocks \ 215/45ZR -18 Continental ExtremeContact DWS PERM dual PVC plate and two Damond Motorsports catch cans. Full vacuum setup w/ VTA for over pressure. PERM #1 -> DM OCC V1 -> DM PCV valve -> Check Valve -> Intake Manifold. PERM #2 -> DM OCC V2 w/ VTA -> Check Valve -> Tee -> Valve Cover & TIP. The others: 2009 BMW 135i - N54 - JB4 w/ backend flash \ SRI. 1998 VW GTI VR6 - 248k miles (stock clutch!) when wrecked (not my fault) ![]() 1995 Jeep XJ - 4.0 - AW4 \ Lift/Tires etc. 230k miles. Rust bucket / winter beater. 1995 Honda del sol VTEC - DIY hodge podge turbo setup \ self tuned w/ Neptune. 2550lbs ~270whp \ 150k+ miles on stock bottom end (4th clutch though) \ knock limited on 93 octane. |
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