the most informative "ENGINE REMOVAL HOW TO " ever!!!!

[qtrmile beast]

Originally Posted by qkrthnu2 @qtrmile beast; Oooooo, Moar Pics. Thanks! #engineremovalporn Questions.... 1. Do you prefer taking the front bumper/rad/condenser out, or does it not make much of a difference? 2. That last pic w/ the lift, did you drop the motor out the bottom? If so, how easy was that by comparison?

1) No i would rather just pull the intake off the front and pull the whole thing out of the top out of all 3 ways.. I dont have to pull my bumper to get my radiator out, dont have to refill my freon because i pulled the A/c line from the radiator either.

2) That is when i had my shop and i had access to a lift and air tools... I did that job in about 2.5 hours!!! But for the average Joe i think it will take about 7-10 hours depending on your skill set..

[ledfootrob]

I pulled my motor and left the gearbox in. Tried putting the engine back in with gearbox still in and just couldn't line it up. Pulled gearbox fitted it to engine and slid the whole lot in, much easier and like above no need to regas the air con.

[qtrmile beast]

Originally Posted by ledfootrob I pulled my motor and left the gearbox in. Tried putting the engine back in with gearbox still in and just couldn't line it up. Pulled gearbox fitted it to engine and slid the whole lot in, much easier and like above no need to regas the air con.

Exactly!!!! Too much time wasted when you could have pulled it all out in the first place. Now for those that want to do it this way the easier way to do it is to pull the transfercase then re install it once the motor is in. But again lots of time wasted in this process..

[IlleztImportz]

Removed my motor today (trans/xfer case connected) and read how you did it. In the process of lifting mine out I was having some major clearance issues. Especially with the flange for driveshaft and firewall. Finally able to get it out at the expense of my overflow bottle.

Going back through your pictures after I was done to see if I missed something you did. And in your picture where you're lifting it out I realize you removed the starter and oil filter housing, is that right? I didnt think of them being an issue before. Because of that, I'll be taking the front clip off to re-install motor :/

[aviator79]

When I did it with Will @Mandinca; we had to undo the front stuff cause there was no way the flange would clear, but only tilted radiator and stuff forward once lose to leave AC lines intact. When I did it the first time I took the whole front end off. No idea how you could do it otherwise...

[qkrthnu2]

The engine is out; Thanks for the advice!

I'm tearing everything off the motor, replacing:
Water pump
Tensioner pulley
Idler pulley
Belt
Thermostat
Clutch kit

I only have the one hoist, no engine stands, how much of a pain is it going to be swapping the transmission over to the new engine? Is it easy enough to do with everything just sitting on the ground?

[qkrthnu2]

Well, I got the transmission off pretty easily with just the hoist.



Hopefully it isn't that hard to align it back to the new engine using my He-Man powers alone.

[qkrthnu2]

Originally Posted by drummerboy1864 indeed make sure it is aligned! i wrecked one with a miss alignment :-( definitely a two person job if you can find someone to lend a hand. You can do it, but it helps to have two sets of eyes

😮 Really? How did you wreck it!? I was assuming it wouldn't bolt back together snug if it wasn't aligned. Did you actually manage to damage the shaft tightening it?

[qtrmile beast]

use a hydraulic jack to to lift the transmission up high enough to align it to put it back together and put the transmission back on

[Jeff23spl]

Sorry for the old thrad revival but i was looking for advices about removing the engine from a MS3.

@qtrmile beast you seam to did all sort of speed so i was wondering if a 3 change the way it would be best to do it?
I did see manny removing the whole front of the car but is it just because most of them do it at home with minimal tools ?

I have a lift and hoist in my garage and i pulled few kind of older engines either by the top or by the bottom already but i never removed the front bumper to do it. The speed is the first one i will do with a removeable front so i'm looking for advices if this make it easier...

I already did the clutch on it and i removed the trans alone by the bottom easily but at time of putting it back, it was a pita to pass the crossmember even on the lift. I finally removed the crossmenber and everything went fine.
That trans is beaffy so my plan is to take it in and out with the engine that time.

[Elrodd]

I suggest pulling the front clip off. It just frees up so much room and it's really pretty simple. Maybe it's different from a 3 to a 6, but I wouldn't even hesitate pulling the front if I have to do this again. Just my .02¢

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
again, mine is a 6, but just an idea of how much more room you free up/less obstacles.

[K3N]

Originally Posted by Elrodd I suggest pulling the front clip off. It just frees up so much room and it's really pretty simple. Maybe it's different from a 3 to a 6, but I wouldn't even hesitate pulling the front if I have to do this again. Just my .02¢ again, mine is a 6, but just an idea of how much more room you free up/less obstacles.

I agree. She just slides right out. Your neighbors look at you like you're having an automotive garage sale, but it's a nicer pull.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[MSP611]

Originally Posted by K3N I agree. She just slides right out. Your neighbors look at you like you're having an automotive garage sale, but it's a nicer pull. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Ya just sucks having to go get ur freon drained then filled and balanced. And u gotta let retards drive ur car for tht.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[Jeff23spl]

thanks but i would like to get the advice from someone with a lift...

Most of the engine removal pictures i have seen yet are with the car on fixed stands. And i can understand the limitations but when you can easily go under/behind the engine and also move it up and down, it may brings more possibility ?

I would like to know if i don't want to open my AC circuit, would it be easier by the top of by the bottom ?

And for peoples afraid of mechanic doing a test drive, you could just disconnect the wastegate solenoid wires and it will fall on stock mecanical boost. It take 1 minute i won't trigger a cell. The AP has a valet mode that is even better but it is a pita to reload a map in the car just for a freon refill...or any easy doing job like wheel align etc...

[Easter Bunny]

its always easier to remove the whole front clip.

[MSP611]

Originally Posted by Jeff23spl thanks but i would like to get the advice from someone with a lift... Most of the engine removal pictures i have seen yet are with the car on fixed stands. And i can understand the limitations but when you can easily go under/behind the engine and also move it up and down, it may brings more possibility ? I would like to know if i don't want to open my AC circuit, would it be easier by the top of by the bottom ? And for peoples afraid of mechanic doing a test drive, you could just disconnect the wastegate solenoid wires and it will fall on stock mecanical boost. It take 1 minute i won't trigger a cell. The AP has a valet mode that is even better but it is a pita to reload a map in the car just for a freon refill...or any easy doing job like wheel align etc...

I'm not worried about them boosting or bashing the car. I worried about them toastering my $1500 clutch. They won't drive the car anywhere other than to their stall to do the work. Ac work does not require a test drive.. Like I said its the clutch action.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by Jeff23spl thanks but i would like to get the advice from someone with a lift... Most of the engine removal pictures i have seen yet are with the car on fixed stands. And i can understand the limitations but when you can easily go under/behind the engine and also move it up and down, it may brings more possibility ? I would like to know if i don't want to open my AC circuit, would it be easier by the top of by the bottom ? And for peoples afraid of mechanic doing a test drive, you could just disconnect the wastegate solenoid wires and it will fall on stock mecanical boost. It take 1 minute i won't trigger a cell. The AP has a valet mode that is even better but it is a pita to reload a map in the car just for a freon refill...or any easy doing job like wheel align etc...

I'm not worried about them boosting or bashing the car. I worried about them toastering my $1500 clutch. They won't drive the car anywhere other than to their stall to do the work. Ac work doors not required a test drive.. Like I said its the clutch action.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[qkrthnu2]

Originally Posted by MSP611 I'm not worried about them boosting or bashing the car. I worried about them toastering my $1500 clutch. They won't drive the car anywhere other than to their stall to do the work. Ac work does not require a test drive.. Like I said its the clutch action. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk I'm not worried about them boosting or bashing the car. I worried about them toastering my $1500 clutch. They won't drive the car anywhere other than to their stall to do the work. Ac work doors not required a test drive.. Like I said its the clutch action. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

So just do it yourself. It would probably cost you the about the same to buy a set of gauges and a vacuum pump. It's not a hard job.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

[MSP611]

Technically tht is illegal

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[qtrmile beast]

Originally Posted by Jeff23spl Sorry for the old thrad revival but i was looking for advices about removing the engine from a MS3. @qtrmile beast you seam to did all sort of speed so i was wondering if a 3 change the way it would be best to do it? I did see manny removing the whole front of the car but is it just because most of them do it at home with minimal tools ? I have a lift and hoist in my garage and i pulled few kind of older engines either by the top or by the bottom already but i never removed the front bumper to do it. The speed is the first one i will do with a removeable front so i'm looking for advices if this make it easier... I already did the clutch on it and i removed the trans alone by the bottom easily but at time of putting it back, it was a pita to pass the crossmember even on the lift. I finally removed the crossmenber and everything went fine. That trans is beaffy so my plan is to take it in and out with the engine that time.

the three is much easier than the six. I would in simple form pull the axles and then the mounts and then exhaust. And since you have a lift I would see the motor and trans, once their loose, on jackstands and then use the lift to raise the car over the motor. No hoist needed!!! Need more detail just post here and I will help you the best possibly can!!!!!!!

[MSP611]

Originally Posted by qtrmile beast the three is much easier than the six. I would in simple form pull the axles and then the mounts and then exhaust. And since you have a lift I would see the motor and trans, once their loose, on jackstands and then use the lift to raise the car over the motor. No hoist needed!!! Need more detail just post here and I will help you the best possibly can!!!!!!!

Dudes a beast!!!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[Jeff23spl]

Originally Posted by qtrmile beast the three is much easier than the six. I would in simple form pull the axles and then the mounts and then exhaust. And since you have a lift I would see the motor and trans, once their loose, on jackstands and then use the lift to raise the car over the motor. No hoist needed!!! Need more detail just post here and I will help you the best possibly can!!!!!!!

Thanks i will try it like that from the bottom and lift the car, it is how i did my last klze install.
I'm not worried about anything else but disconnectiong the AC. Let that gaz go into atmosphere and pay to get it refilled when i have other options...

I have air tools and most of the bolts to remove already have anti-seize on them...

[Jeff23spl]

Originally Posted by MSP611 Technically tht is illegal Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

it isn't illegal everywhere + normally you should suck the gaz instead of just disconnecting the hose and let it go.
Then you can have access to legal substitute to freon sold in parts store and also at wallmart. There is small can you can buy with gage and stuff for cheap. This is petrol based and works.

the only badside is when you use that and get your car serviced to an official shop. They don't like it. And if you use the product that plug the leaks, it may plug the system too...

PS what kind of clutch did you get ? usually i would not be worried much to have them move the car at slow speed. I have ACT with an heavy PP. The faster iddle and larger turbo make it easy to move without creating boost before the clutch is fully released...At worst it will stall or it will spin but making it slip is difficult. Maybe a 6 is a little more tricky? Personnaly i'm more afraid of test drive after a wheel align. Sometimes you get professionnals but sometimes they test drive it like if they stole it just for fun and i really don't like it.

[MSP611]

Well its illegal in California. U have to have a cert for ac work other than those home kits from autozone. And I'd rather not out tht shit in my ac system. There is a reason they use freon

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[qtrmile beast]

You don't have to release the freon from the system when pulling the engine I don't believe just remove the ac from the block and set it to the side with the lines still attached. It'sbeen a minute since iI pulled a 3 though. I have pulled the motor out of a 3 we had in our shop in about 2.5 hours!!!!

[MSP611]

I know we don't have to... I was just tryna explain tht for most this is an illegal actions to be releasing freon into the atmosphere and don't get caught doin so if u plan to do this

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[qtrmile beast]

This was the first 3 i have ever done and did it in 2.5 hours!!

By the way i has the fastest version of the probe!!!! 1990 turbo gt!!! LOL i wonder if you have heard of ESPOC on the probetalk?

[Jeff23spl]

88-92 faster than 93-97 ? only after being moded

Unfortunately, i missed that, i do have a PT account but i wasn't not much involved there. We had a very nice local community back then, with only few of us understanding a bit of english. Now, it is way less popular but i still like the sound of that n/a engine.
The potential is limited but fun to drive. I use it now mostly to move car audio stuff
Do you have a link to your build thread on PT ?

[qtrmile beast]

Originally Posted by Jeff23spl 88-92 faster than 93-97 ? only after being moded Unfortunately, i missed that, i do have a PT account but i wasn't not much involved there. We had a very nice local community back then, with only few of us understanding a bit of english. Now, it is way less popular but i still like the sound of that n/a engine. The potential is limited but fun to drive. I use it now mostly to move car audio stuff Do you have a link to your build thread on PT ?

I was one of the original people on PT before it is was a forum it was an email based discussion. This was in the early 90s.... oh no im telling to much of my age here!!! We didnt think about build step during that time. When just did it an when to Myrtle yearly to show off what was done!!! Check out Ademanster on PT in the kill section or on youtube. So is what of the faster first gens on there that is still pushing the envelop on that platform.

As far as the V6 sound i love that as well as i owned one just before i got the speed!!!

[rodger14s]

This looks like a fantastic write up. I'm currently doing research before buying a Speed6 that needs engine work. What is the estimation of time it would take to pull the engine using these steps but having not done it 1000x. Sounds like you do this fairly often so it is a breeze for you.

[MSP611]

It shouldn't take u more than 8hrs with a friend the first time.. It's really not tht hard just bag and tag parts and use tape to tag ur electrical connectors sp u know where they go

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[rodger14s]

Originally Posted by MSP611 It shouldn't take u more than 8hrs with a friend the first time.. It's really not tht hard just bag and tag parts and use tape to tag ur electrical connectors sp u know where they go Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

That doesn't sound bad at all. I have a good friend to help me and it will probably be just the two of us. I'm building a spreadsheet to compare costs of a worst case scenario so I know what I can expect to get into. Once I finish the spreadsheet I will start entering the data and more than likely move forward with the purchase of the car. To my understanding if I become VIP I will have access to an entire shop manual pdf available to download, is this correct?

[aaronc7]

yes

[Jeff23spl]

Originally Posted by rodger14s That doesn't sound bad at all. I have a good friend to help me and it will probably be just the two of us. I'm building a spreadsheet to compare costs of a worst case scenario so I know what I can expect to get into. Once I finish the spreadsheet I will start entering the data and more than likely move forward with the purchase of the car. To my understanding if I become VIP I will have access to an entire shop manual pdf available to download, is this correct?

Humm make sure to check what is the engine damage before buying it and check also for a used replacement one. If it is a rod that punched out of the bloc, you'd better check for a full replacement low mile engine...
Is it is a knocking crank....humm for myself it also mean : new bloc, it can be regring but i never had success doing this in a long term basis.

If it is an engine with low compression or a lot of blow by but cylinder wall isn't too much damaged, or one with timing issue and bent valves: no problems

Rebuilding these engine isn't cheap if you dont expect to change the turbo or heavily mod it it may not worth it...Dont forget timing stuff and a new VVT/washer etc....

A car that you can't test drive need to be very cheap to be bough, at least 1000-2000$ less than what it would cost to repair it or you would better buy it in working conditions.

[rodger14s]

Originally Posted by Jeff23spl Humm make sure to check what is the engine damage before buying it and check also for a used replacement one. If it is a rod that punched out of the bloc, you'd better check for a full replacement low mile engine... Is it is a knocking crank....humm for myself it also mean : new bloc, it can be regring but i never had success doing this in a long term basis. If it is an engine with low compression or a lot of blow by but cylinder wall isn't too much damaged, or one with timing issue and bent valves: no problems Rebuilding these engine isn't cheap if you dont expect to change the turbo or heavily mod it it may not worth it...Dont forget timing stuff and a new VVT/washer etc.... A car that you can't test drive need to be very cheap to be bough, at least 1000-2000$ less than what it would cost to repair it or you would better buy it in working conditions.

The engine won't turn over, either bad battery or spun bearing. The body is in good shape, no rust. Tires are almost new and the clutch has about 20k miles on it. Interior is great as well. He wants 2k for it. I figure if i were to rebuild/mildy build the engine it would be good for about another 150k miles.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jeff23spl]

A bad battery would be a joke at this price ....It is hard to imagine someone not trying to boost it or put a 100$ on the car to sell it 1-2000 more...

You could try to move it wit a bar but if it is seized because a bend valve or a torn rod, you will just make more damages...You could see valves with a small camera thru the spark plug hole but for rod/bearing you need to remove the oil pan...

It is a guest, 2000 if everything else is good can be fine but: if the trans grind, clutch slip, wheel bearing need replacement, brakes are worn out, new tires needed etc, it may end up costing more than a running one and unfortunately you cannot drive it to check. that...

[qtrmile beast]

Im sorry did i miss something here, So you are buying a car that has problems? What exactly do you mean if wont turn over? Does it crank and just not start? That could be a fuel issue and spark plug issue, timing jump issue etc...

[rodger14s]

Let me start off by saying the guy that has it isn't very mechanically inclined. However, he has always had it serviced anytime necessary and took good care of it. He had noticed oil loss, but no leak or puddle detected. I informed him it may be blow by as it was still the original turbo with 150k miles on the car. He quit driving it until he had time to take it to the shop, while he was enroute the car made a noise of some kind and I believe he shut it down. The dealership told him he needs a new engine, it has since been towed back to his home. I looked at it and it cranks a little and quits, turn the key again and it cranks some more and stops. I commented on the "mazda" battery that was in the car, asked if it was original and he stated that it is not. He knew he would be needing a new one at some point so he had the dealership put in a new one and they only charged him like 30 bucks, which is odd, im thinking it may be a used battery and it now has a bad cell. Sorry for all of my noobness.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rodger14s]

Originally Posted by qtrmile beast Im sorry did i miss something here, So you are buying a car that has problems? What exactly do you mean if wont turn over? Does it crank and just not start? That could be a fuel issue and spark plug issue, timing jump issue etc...

I just tried to message you. Says your inbox is full.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jeff23spl]

sounds better this way for everything exept the engine but at 2000$ if you can manage the mechanic, it isn't a bad idea...You won't probably save much vs a running one but you will have one with a well known motor. You can also check for a genuine new mazda bloc to compare. It really depend what you will do with it...

[qtrmile beast]

Originally Posted by rodger14s I just tried to message you. Says your inbox is full. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Having an issue with my PM. what state are you in? Why did the dealership state you needed a new engine. i think the know weather or not the battery is the culprit or not.