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 Old 02-17-2016, 10:12 AM   #81
 
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i would check everything else out see wat it needs on it... and base price off tht knowing pretty much u need an engine already.. check brakes closely... look at suspension play.. do a really thorough inspection
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 Old 02-17-2016, 10:14 AM   #82
 
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Ive never had to take anything to a shop or dealership for repair, therefore I don't trust them much and think they are out to sell a new car or maybe the mechanic wanted it for himself. The car is entirely stock, other than replacement parts. E.G. Clutch, rear dif, timing etc. it runs stock boost and all. That's what i'm leaning towards, building it myself, only mild. I would know the engine, and would think I could trust it over a replacement from a salvage yard.


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 Old 02-17-2016, 10:22 AM   #83
 
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Originally Posted by rodger14s View Post
Ive never had to take anything to a shop or dealership for repair, therefore I don't trust them much and think they are out to sell a new car or maybe the mechanic wanted it for himself. The car is entirely stock, other than replacement parts. E.G. Clutch, rear dif, timing etc. it runs stock boost and all. That's what i'm leaning towards, building it myself, only mild. I would know the engine, and would think I could trust it over a replacement from a salvage yard.


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 Old 02-17-2016, 10:34 AM   #84
 
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 Old 08-02-2016, 03:27 PM   #85
 
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Noob question:

first take the front control arm off ONLY on both sides
Which is the control arm? I have no idea what I'm looking at in the two pictures for that step.

Can someone point out which arm is supposed to be removed from the diagram? I've got everything else disconnected following the workshop manual.


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 Old 08-02-2016, 06:29 PM   #86

 
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I have not read the instructions, but when I hear front control arm I think item 6.

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 Old 08-02-2016, 10:35 PM   #87
 
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Still confused. Every guide or manual I read seems to use different terminology. I've got everything else removed and I'm stuck on this step.
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 Old 08-02-2016, 10:38 PM   #88
 
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Not that hard. 5 & 6 are the lower control arms. The front control arm is the one closest to the front of the car.

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 Old 08-02-2016, 10:44 PM   #89
 
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So it is #6 then? So I remove the 23mm nut, knock out the ball joint, and then remove the 17mm nut on the fork? Sorry if I'm being dense, I don't know why this step is confusing me so much.
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 Old 08-02-2016, 11:22 PM   #90
 
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Yep, sounds right. I think I disconnected both, but I didn't really follow directions. You basically just need to be able to freely move the hub to have enough movement to get the axle out.

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 Old 08-03-2016, 07:10 AM   #91

 
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Are you sure you should be trying an engine swap?
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 Old 08-03-2016, 08:32 AM   #92
 
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Originally Posted by xfeejayx View Post
Are you sure you should be trying an engine swap?
Nope! But its a project car I got for dirt cheap.

I think I figured out what he was showing in that picture was the back side of the control arm where it connects to the subframe (?) and not the knuckle.

(I'm a mechanical engineer high on technical knowledge low on practical)

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 Old 08-03-2016, 09:38 AM   #93

 
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Might as well learn on a cheap car, I guess.

Not sure why you are stuck on the picture. You have two people telling you what it is on the parts diagram.
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 Old 08-03-2016, 10:00 AM   #94
 
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It's a motor swap. Keep pulling nuts, bolts, and wires off until the motor comes out.

That simple really.
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 Old 08-03-2016, 10:31 AM   #95

 
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Originally Posted by WetzMS3 View Post
It's a motor swap. Keep pulling nuts, bolts, and wires off until the motor comes out.

That simple really.
Don't forget the hoes.
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 Old 08-03-2016, 10:36 AM   #96
 
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Originally Posted by xfeejayx View Post
Don't forget the hoes.
Strippers tend to slow the swap down, I'd recommend skipping the hoes. Do disconnect hoses though.
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 Old 08-04-2016, 03:38 PM   #97
 
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Originally Posted by roburrito View Post
So it is #6 then? So I remove the 23mm nut, knock out the ball joint, and then remove the 17mm nut on the fork? Sorry if I'm being dense, I don't know why this step is confusing me so much.

WAIT WAIT WAIT.....



Drivers side...



Passenger side

Then take the lower bolt out of the fork for the strut. Both the control arm and the lower fork are 17mm...



17mm is on the side with the rubber donut is and the 19mm is on opposite side..

Do this procedure on both side of the car..


No need to take the 23mm bolt at all just pull the two 17 pictured in 1 and 2 pics which is on either side of the car. Then take a 19mm and 17mm to get the bolt that goes through the bottom of the fork out. Once you have these disconnected then you can just pull the control arm out of the subframe....These bolts are really long so it is suggested that you use a really long extension and an air gun to get it off faster. Do you need an air gun no... just suggested.

All was stated in post #3 ....
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 Old 08-04-2016, 03:48 PM   #98
 
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:thumbsup: That's what I did. Way easier than popping the ball joint. Engine is out of the car. In the middle of transferring stuff to the new (to me) engine. Thanks for the guide, saved me a lot of time!
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 Old 08-05-2016, 06:45 AM   #99
 
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Remove PTO from transmission and put new seals in both the transmission and the PTO.
Do it now, save major ass burning headache later.
Also put a new throw out bearing on the clutch fork.


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 Old 08-05-2016, 08:06 PM   #100
 
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Any tips for getting the passenger side front drive shaft back in? I got the drivers side in. And I got the driver side onto the splines up to the c clip and i cant push the damn thing past it.
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 Old 08-05-2016, 09:15 PM   #101
 
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I had problems with the drivers side axle. The C clips are just a bitch. Grease it then line it up as straight as possible and slam it in there as hard as you can.

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 Old 08-08-2016, 11:39 AM   #102
 
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Take a rubber mallet and make sure the axle is straight and then beat it in that way. Dont do it with a regular hammer because you can mess up the threads on the axle.

Also make sure the C clip is is the groove inside the axle and has not popped out and blocking the driveshaft from sliding in.
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 Old 08-11-2016, 02:23 PM   #103
 
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like someone said before, most people have seemed to use a crane to remove the engine, but i plan to use a lift. How much easier is it to use a lift to pull the engine? i plan to just pull the engine and trans out all as one, and then install back in all as one. also with the AC lines, someone said just leave the AC lines alone and put the AC pump to the side?
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 Old 08-11-2016, 03:19 PM   #104
 
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Originally Posted by droflow View Post
like someone said before, most people have seemed to use a crane to remove the engine, but i plan to use a lift. How much easier is it to use a lift to pull the engine? i plan to just pull the engine and trans out all as one, and then install back in all as one. also with the AC lines, someone said just leave the AC lines alone and put the AC pump to the side?
Unless you just WANT to put new Freon in your car i suggest just moving it to the side...
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 Old 07-19-2017, 05:33 PM   #105
 
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Is it just me or can no one view any photos unless you pay photobucket $400?
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 Old 07-21-2017, 02:19 PM   #106
 
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seem like everyone is in that boat.. Have to find a new free host
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 Old 07-21-2017, 04:00 PM   #107
 
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You can still view his photo's on photobuckets page, not sure which album they are in:
Charles Pettus's Library | Photobucket

I'd recommend imgur.com as an image host for future threads.
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 Old 07-21-2017, 04:36 PM   #108
 
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Originally Posted by roburrito View Post
You can still view his photo's on photobuckets page, not sure which album they are in:
Charles Pettus's Library | Photobucket

I'd recommend imgur.com as an image host for future threads.
Look in the "ENGINE PULL" folder


PS you will not be able to zoom in or see the picture individually..
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 Old 12-19-2017, 01:15 PM   #109
 
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just fyi
I never finished my thread either but did save many pics from hear and upload to MSF so not lost due to PB...

How to Remove Engine
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