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![]() | | #81 | ![]() |
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__________________ In progress: Engine: Built long block by Keefover. Keyed crank,keyed cams/VVT,Crower 65lb valve springs,Wiseco pistons,Manley H beam rods,AFI t3 stock location mani,Comp turbo CT4x 53-56,Kozmic 6th port PI with 2200cc bosch injectors,N2MB WOT box,Relentless ported intake mani,Kozmic oil feed line,Custom oil return line,Ramfab 3.5" intake,Ramfab alum. crash bar,Ramfab IC piping,TR10 IC,Saiko Michi and JBR dual custom catch can setup, Guardian angel v3 with 4bar map sensor,Dual Deatschwerks in-tank fuel hat with bigger pickup,-6an nylon braided fuel lines,Fuel labs FPR,SP63 3 port EBCS,Mishimoto oil cooler, HKS SSQV1,BSD,Autotech FP internals,CPE injector seals EGR delete,TB coolant bypass delete,M2 Ebay DP Suspenion/Bracing: Sonic tuning CO's revalved by Feal Suspension, QA1 600lb rear springs, 750lb front Swift springs,AWR front and rear sway bar endlinks,Whiteline RSB,SPC front adjustable ball joints,GT spec ladder brace,SU rear interior brace,NRG harness bar. Drivetrain:SS brake lines,SS clutch line,Carbotech ax6 F&R, Southbend STG 3 endurance clutch and flywheel,SU rear diff mount,SU front rear diff mount,SP63 TC caps,DSS rear axles,AWR Trilogy mounts 70A,Hubcentric centering rings,2" brake ducting F&R,TWM STS stg 1 with bushing kit Interior:Redline custom shift boot,Redline custom steering wheel cover,Redline custom ebrake handle cover Bride Stradia V.2 rep seats,Corbeau seat brackets,JBR heavy shift knob,Custom LED gauge cluster,Custom Steering column dual gauge pod,AEM wideband failsafe,AEM oil pressure gauge,Schrothe Rallye 4 harnesses,Escort 9500ix with mirror mount and hard wired with external controller,DIY ipod adapter. Exterior: STI front lip,Enkei PF01SS 17x9 +48 wrapped in Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R's 245/45/17,Full clear bra,Muteki SR48 blue locking lug nuts,RHO side plate mount,Smoked side markers, Shark fin antenna |
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![]() | | #82 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ive never had to take anything to a shop or dealership for repair, therefore I don't trust them much and think they are out to sell a new car or maybe the mechanic wanted it for himself. The car is entirely stock, other than replacement parts. E.G. Clutch, rear dif, timing etc. it runs stock boost and all. That's what i'm leaning towards, building it myself, only mild. I would know the engine, and would think I could trust it over a replacement from a salvage yard. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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![]() | | #83 | ![]() |
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Good luck and let me know if you need any help!!!!
__________________ Best time is 12.28@112 with a 1.68 60ft "GONE HUNTING BE BACK IN 11 SECS" 365HP and 333 TQ AT 20Psi gt3076 7 blade track weight 3220 street weight 3370 fully built motor//carrilo rods//cp pistons//ACT 6 puck//all mounts//gt3582 turbo//CPE manifold//ported intake//h&r coils//brembo brakes//tr10 I/C//accessport Last edited by qtrmile beast; 02-17-2016 at 11:27 AM. | |
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![]() | | #84 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Last edited by rodger14s; 02-17-2016 at 11:24 AM. |
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![]() | | #85 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Noob question:
Can someone point out which arm is supposed to be removed from the diagram? I've got everything else disconnected following the workshop manual. Last edited by roburrito; 08-02-2016 at 06:32 PM. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have not read the instructions, but when I hear front control arm I think item 6. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
__________________ "Well, Racecar=Broke. Other kinds of awesome may not, but racecar does. But racecar=best kind of awesome." -Wetz QFT |
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![]() | | #87 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Still confused. Every guide or manual I read seems to use different terminology. I've got everything else removed and I'm stuck on this step. |
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![]() | | #88 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Not that hard. 5 & 6 are the lower control arms. The front control arm is the one closest to the front of the car. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
__________________ _______________________________________________ Driver Mods - Mid Ohio Three Day Racing School 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT - 130k+ miles. Daily driver (Actually my Wife's car) Shooting for a reliable 350 AWHP. Surefire Remanufactured Engine Installed @ 135k. Mods: BNR S3 Turbo \ Grimmspeed EBCS \ Guardian Angel \ Cobb AccessPort \ Bosch 3 Bar MAP sensor \ AWR RMM \ TurbineTech FMM \ Corksport HPFP \ cp-e Injector seals \ Autolite XP5263 plugs \ Ebay Circuit Werks DP \ Stock CBE \ HTP 3" Intake w/ DIY CAI \ cp-e TMIC \ DIY boost tubes \ Primary & Secondary EGR delete \ Bilstein Shocks \ 215/45ZR -18 Continental ExtremeContact DWS PERM dual PVC plate and two Damond Motorsports catch cans. Full vacuum setup w/ VTA for over pressure. PERM #1 -> DM OCC V1 -> DM PCV valve -> Check Valve -> Intake Manifold. PERM #2 -> DM OCC V2 w/ VTA -> Check Valve -> Tee -> Valve Cover & TIP. The others: 2009 BMW 135i - N54 - JB4 w/ backend flash \ SRI. 1998 VW GTI VR6 - 248k miles (stock clutch!) when wrecked (not my fault) ![]() 1995 Jeep XJ - 4.0 - AW4 \ Lift/Tires etc. 230k miles. Rust bucket / winter beater. 1995 Honda del sol VTEC - DIY hodge podge turbo setup \ self tuned w/ Neptune. 2550lbs ~270whp \ 150k+ miles on stock bottom end (4th clutch though) \ knock limited on 93 octane. |
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![]() | | #89 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So it is #6 then? So I remove the 23mm nut, knock out the ball joint, and then remove the 17mm nut on the fork? Sorry if I'm being dense, I don't know why this step is confusing me so much. |
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![]() | | #90 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yep, sounds right. I think I disconnected both, but I didn't really follow directions. You basically just need to be able to freely move the hub to have enough movement to get the axle out. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
__________________ _______________________________________________ Driver Mods - Mid Ohio Three Day Racing School 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT - 130k+ miles. Daily driver (Actually my Wife's car) Shooting for a reliable 350 AWHP. Surefire Remanufactured Engine Installed @ 135k. Mods: BNR S3 Turbo \ Grimmspeed EBCS \ Guardian Angel \ Cobb AccessPort \ Bosch 3 Bar MAP sensor \ AWR RMM \ TurbineTech FMM \ Corksport HPFP \ cp-e Injector seals \ Autolite XP5263 plugs \ Ebay Circuit Werks DP \ Stock CBE \ HTP 3" Intake w/ DIY CAI \ cp-e TMIC \ DIY boost tubes \ Primary & Secondary EGR delete \ Bilstein Shocks \ 215/45ZR -18 Continental ExtremeContact DWS PERM dual PVC plate and two Damond Motorsports catch cans. Full vacuum setup w/ VTA for over pressure. PERM #1 -> DM OCC V1 -> DM PCV valve -> Check Valve -> Intake Manifold. PERM #2 -> DM OCC V2 w/ VTA -> Check Valve -> Tee -> Valve Cover & TIP. The others: 2009 BMW 135i - N54 - JB4 w/ backend flash \ SRI. 1998 VW GTI VR6 - 248k miles (stock clutch!) when wrecked (not my fault) ![]() 1995 Jeep XJ - 4.0 - AW4 \ Lift/Tires etc. 230k miles. Rust bucket / winter beater. 1995 Honda del sol VTEC - DIY hodge podge turbo setup \ self tuned w/ Neptune. 2550lbs ~270whp \ 150k+ miles on stock bottom end (4th clutch though) \ knock limited on 93 octane. |
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![]() | | #91 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Are you sure you should be trying an engine swap?
__________________ "Well, Racecar=Broke. Other kinds of awesome may not, but racecar does. But racecar=best kind of awesome." -Wetz QFT |
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![]() | | #92 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Nope! But its a project car I got for dirt cheap. I think I figured out what he was showing in that picture was the back side of the control arm where it connects to the subframe (?) and not the knuckle. (I'm a mechanical engineer high on technical knowledge low on practical) Last edited by roburrito; 08-03-2016 at 08:43 AM. |
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![]() | | #93 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Might as well learn on a cheap car, I guess. Not sure why you are stuck on the picture. You have two people telling you what it is on the parts diagram.
__________________ "Well, Racecar=Broke. Other kinds of awesome may not, but racecar does. But racecar=best kind of awesome." -Wetz QFT Last edited by xfeejayx; 08-03-2016 at 10:30 AM. |
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![]() | | #94 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It's a motor swap. Keep pulling nuts, bolts, and wires off until the motor comes out. That simple really.
__________________ 2013 MS3 Black Mica SLUGGISH RUGGISH BONE SLUNTWORKS SPEEDSHOP |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Don't forget the hoes.
__________________ "Well, Racecar=Broke. Other kinds of awesome may not, but racecar does. But racecar=best kind of awesome." -Wetz QFT |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Strippers tend to slow the swap down, I'd recommend skipping the hoes. Do disconnect hoses though.
__________________ 2013 MS3 Black Mica SLUGGISH RUGGISH BONE SLUNTWORKS SPEEDSHOP |
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WAIT WAIT WAIT..... Drivers side... Passenger side Then take the lower bolt out of the fork for the strut. Both the control arm and the lower fork are 17mm... 17mm is on the side with the rubber donut is and the 19mm is on opposite side.. Do this procedure on both side of the car.. No need to take the 23mm bolt at all just pull the two 17 pictured in 1 and 2 pics which is on either side of the car. Then take a 19mm and 17mm to get the bolt that goes through the bottom of the fork out. Once you have these disconnected then you can just pull the control arm out of the subframe....These bolts are really long so it is suggested that you use a really long extension and an air gun to get it off faster. Do you need an air gun no... just suggested. All was stated in post #3 ....
__________________ Best time is 12.28@112 with a 1.68 60ft "GONE HUNTING BE BACK IN 11 SECS" 365HP and 333 TQ AT 20Psi gt3076 7 blade track weight 3220 street weight 3370 fully built motor//carrilo rods//cp pistons//ACT 6 puck//all mounts//gt3582 turbo//CPE manifold//ported intake//h&r coils//brembo brakes//tr10 I/C//accessport | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score :thumbsup: That's what I did. Way easier than popping the ball joint. Engine is out of the car. In the middle of transferring stuff to the new (to me) engine. Thanks for the guide, saved me a lot of time! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Remove PTO from transmission and put new seals in both the transmission and the PTO. Do it now, save major ass burning headache later. Also put a new throw out bearing on the clutch fork. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________ Black 2006 MS6 GT with Navigation // Cobb AP V2 // Cobb SRI // M2 Catless DP // Autotech internals // JBR 80 Duro RMM |
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![]() | | #100 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Any tips for getting the passenger side front drive shaft back in? I got the drivers side in. And I got the driver side onto the splines up to the c clip and i cant push the damn thing past it. |
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![]() | | #101 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I had problems with the drivers side axle. The C clips are just a bitch. Grease it then line it up as straight as possible and slam it in there as hard as you can. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
__________________ _______________________________________________ Driver Mods - Mid Ohio Three Day Racing School 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT - 130k+ miles. Daily driver (Actually my Wife's car) Shooting for a reliable 350 AWHP. Surefire Remanufactured Engine Installed @ 135k. Mods: BNR S3 Turbo \ Grimmspeed EBCS \ Guardian Angel \ Cobb AccessPort \ Bosch 3 Bar MAP sensor \ AWR RMM \ TurbineTech FMM \ Corksport HPFP \ cp-e Injector seals \ Autolite XP5263 plugs \ Ebay Circuit Werks DP \ Stock CBE \ HTP 3" Intake w/ DIY CAI \ cp-e TMIC \ DIY boost tubes \ Primary & Secondary EGR delete \ Bilstein Shocks \ 215/45ZR -18 Continental ExtremeContact DWS PERM dual PVC plate and two Damond Motorsports catch cans. Full vacuum setup w/ VTA for over pressure. PERM #1 -> DM OCC V1 -> DM PCV valve -> Check Valve -> Intake Manifold. PERM #2 -> DM OCC V2 w/ VTA -> Check Valve -> Tee -> Valve Cover & TIP. The others: 2009 BMW 135i - N54 - JB4 w/ backend flash \ SRI. 1998 VW GTI VR6 - 248k miles (stock clutch!) when wrecked (not my fault) ![]() 1995 Jeep XJ - 4.0 - AW4 \ Lift/Tires etc. 230k miles. Rust bucket / winter beater. 1995 Honda del sol VTEC - DIY hodge podge turbo setup \ self tuned w/ Neptune. 2550lbs ~270whp \ 150k+ miles on stock bottom end (4th clutch though) \ knock limited on 93 octane. |
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![]() | | #102 | ![]() |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Take a rubber mallet and make sure the axle is straight and then beat it in that way. Dont do it with a regular hammer because you can mess up the threads on the axle. Also make sure the C clip is is the groove inside the axle and has not popped out and blocking the driveshaft from sliding in.
__________________ Best time is 12.28@112 with a 1.68 60ft "GONE HUNTING BE BACK IN 11 SECS" 365HP and 333 TQ AT 20Psi gt3076 7 blade track weight 3220 street weight 3370 fully built motor//carrilo rods//cp pistons//ACT 6 puck//all mounts//gt3582 turbo//CPE manifold//ported intake//h&r coils//brembo brakes//tr10 I/C//accessport |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score like someone said before, most people have seemed to use a crane to remove the engine, but i plan to use a lift. How much easier is it to use a lift to pull the engine? i plan to just pull the engine and trans out all as one, and then install back in all as one. also with the AC lines, someone said just leave the AC lines alone and put the AC pump to the side?
__________________ 2007 Cosmic Blue Mica Mazdaspeed3 GT Mazdaspeed CAI, Autotech HPFP, Corksport TMIC, E-cutout, corksport test pipe, stratified tune In the works: Built engine- Bored .020 over, Eagle Rods, Wiseco 88mm pistons, Damond PCV plate, corksport injector seals, ported IM |
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![]() | | #104 | ![]() |
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__________________ Best time is 12.28@112 with a 1.68 60ft "GONE HUNTING BE BACK IN 11 SECS" 365HP and 333 TQ AT 20Psi gt3076 7 blade track weight 3220 street weight 3370 fully built motor//carrilo rods//cp pistons//ACT 6 puck//all mounts//gt3582 turbo//CPE manifold//ported intake//h&r coils//brembo brakes//tr10 I/C//accessport | |
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![]() | | #105 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Is it just me or can no one view any photos unless you pay photobucket $400? |
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![]() | | #106 | ![]() |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score seem like everyone is in that boat.. Have to find a new free host
__________________ Best time is 12.28@112 with a 1.68 60ft "GONE HUNTING BE BACK IN 11 SECS" 365HP and 333 TQ AT 20Psi gt3076 7 blade track weight 3220 street weight 3370 fully built motor//carrilo rods//cp pistons//ACT 6 puck//all mounts//gt3582 turbo//CPE manifold//ported intake//h&r coils//brembo brakes//tr10 I/C//accessport |
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![]() | | #107 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You can still view his photo's on photobuckets page, not sure which album they are in: Charles Pettus's Library | Photobucket I'd recommend imgur.com as an image host for future threads. |
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![]() | | #108 | ![]() |
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PS you will not be able to zoom in or see the picture individually..
__________________ Best time is 12.28@112 with a 1.68 60ft "GONE HUNTING BE BACK IN 11 SECS" 365HP and 333 TQ AT 20Psi gt3076 7 blade track weight 3220 street weight 3370 fully built motor//carrilo rods//cp pistons//ACT 6 puck//all mounts//gt3582 turbo//CPE manifold//ported intake//h&r coils//brembo brakes//tr10 I/C//accessport | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score just fyi I never finished my thread either but did save many pics from hear and upload to MSF so not lost due to PB... How to Remove Engine
__________________ MS6 - BNRs3 - Cobb AP - JBR Tru-3.0 - Spearco FMIC - MAC EBCS - Synapse BOV - DNP - CPE DP->MF - SU RRM - TTFMM - TT + CPE Diff Mounts - Mrlilguy HPFP - Projector HID fogs - TSX projector retrofit - LI jammers - Advan RZs w/ 245 PSSs - Koni - WL RSB |
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
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| Spy Shots: Ford's new "Coyote" 5.0L V8 caught in F150 engine bay | Haltech | Automotive News | 2 | 09-30-2009 06:19 PM |
| Lutz lays out his strategy for GM advertising: "Memorable," "clever," "viral" [w/VIDEO] | Haltech | Automotive News | 0 | 08-04-2009 09:40 AM |
| Saudi government bans "lewd" personalized license plates including: "SEX," "ASS," and "USA" | Haltech | Automotive News | 0 | 04-14-2009 01:40 PM |