So You Want Better Shifter Cables?

[Mazdazilla6]

Well I posted this on facebook but that will get lost eventually and not everyone wants to wade through my build thread so I figured I'd post it up here. Thanks to @Trithemius; for pioneering this.


As some of you know I've spent the past few weeks fitting some custom shift cables in my car and I've finally just about wrapped it up so here's everything I've got to say about them. The install is an absolute cunt, and depending on your turbo/intake setup fitment can be quite tight. But it's totally worth it, the shifter feels super notchy and feels very directly connected to the transmission. There's no vagueness in shifting whatsoever. Also, being able to dial in the shifter to just how you want it is awesome. All of the struggle was definitely worth it. This isn't a write up for how to install them, there's already a guide on MSF for that, this is just to tell you what you need to get these on your car. Lastly, for anyone with a 3 reading this, this is for a 6 I have absolutely no clue if this will work for you.

As for what you need, the cables can be custom ordered from Midwest Controls. You have to go into the custom cable configurator on their site (I've attached a photo of what's needed). I used a 57.50" cable length but that was a bit long, 57" or 56.50" might be a bit better.

You will need to reuse the plate that seals the cables on the firewall, the new cables are thicker so you will need to open the seal up like I have in the photo in order to push the new cables through it (this also means you will have to chop up your old cables to get the plate).

In order to get the cables to attach to the shifter and the trans you will need to grind off the welds/rivets on the back of the ball posts on the shifter assembly and the shifter shaft. You'll need to remove the shifter shaft from the trans in order to get the ball posts ground off. Once you get most of the material ground off you can hammer or pull the ball out and you'll be left with a nicely sized hole. Be sure to use washers on both sides of the hole and a nylon lock nut. Another side note, the 3" throw on the cable end is a little long for the left/right control on the shifter, I chopped off a few threads on the end in order to get more adjustment out of it to get it where I needed. I don't think a 2" throw will be long enough but if you're feeling brave give it a shot.

The last piece of the puzzle is the cable bracket that attaches to the trans. This is a bit of a challenge because depending on your turbo/exhaust mani/intake setup will change the dimensions that will work for you on this bracket. In my case I've got a cp-e mani with a 5862 and a 4" intake. The turbo sits very low, almost on the trans and the intake comes out a bit. The photos of the dimensions I've attached will work for a stock turbo, stock TIP setup. If you're in a similar boat as me, you will need to notch the middle of the bracket for the intake to clear and lower the fore/aft cable about an inch towards the bottom of the bracket (see installed photo). I will not be offering brackets for sale, it takes a lot of time to make and get it right.

That should be just about everything you need to know to get it done. It's honestly a lot of work but if you're in need of new cables I wouldn't think twice about it. They're so much better than the stock cables IMO and they were only $130 shipped.

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[Trithemius]

Nice writeup @Mazdazilla6;

I can attest, the shifter feel is very direct, no more 1/2in slop in a bunch of plastic ball joints.

Here's some pictures of what the bracket looks like on a my stock turbo setup, plus some closeups of the cables and ends. Also, I now know that the bracket will fit unmodified with a bnr s3 on stock manifold and a JBR 3in intake, fwiw.

(Glad to see my crappy drawings still being circulated)

[GroceryGtr]

hotness, this was on my list of fall projects when I pull the car down for the winter next year. Knock on wood mine are currently good, but it was only a matter of time so figured I'd do them prior to failure... I would think we could get a GB going on these and get them down even more and/or package them with a premade bracket as a whole kit.

[Cataphract_40]

Interested if there's a GB/kit/lazy person version for lazy people like me.

[Mazdazilla6]

Just wanted to say I *think* and it's a BIG maybe, that these cables have fixed my second gear decel pop out. The first week that I drove the car with the stock cables it would usually pop out of gear about once a day. Since I've put these on I've driven a couple thousand miles and haven't had the car pop out of gear once.

[PhillyCheese]

I guess I should do these since the motor is out haha

[aackthpt]

Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 Just wanted to say I *think* and it's a BIG maybe, that these cables have fixed my second gear decel pop out. The first week that I drove the car with the stock cables it would usually pop out of gear about once a day. Since I've put these on I've driven a couple thousand miles and haven't had the car pop out of gear once.

Interesting. Any ideas on how it would have fixed it? Only fix I've heard of/seen was reducing shift knob, and trans lever, weights which makes sense because inertia. But no idea how cables could fix it unless the cable was just too short/long, and you weren't actually past the detent mechanism in 2nd or probably any of the other gears toward the rear in the pattern.

[Mazdazilla6]

Originally Posted by aackthpt Interesting. Any ideas on how it would have fixed it? Only fix I've heard of/seen was reducing shift knob, and trans lever, weights which makes sense because inertia. But no idea how cables could fix it unless the cable was just too short/long, and you weren't actually past the detent mechanism in 2nd or probably any of the other gears toward the rear in the pattern.

I honestly don't know which is why I'm so hesitant to say it's the cables but it's the only thing on the trans I changed. Maybe they have more drag to them and the trans can't push back on them hard enough to move the shifter? Shift effort is a tad higher than the stock cables.

[Trithemius]

Originally Posted by aackthpt Interesting. Any ideas on how it would have fixed it? Only fix I've heard of/seen was reducing shift knob, and trans lever, weights which makes sense because inertia. But no idea how cables could fix it unless the cable was just too short/long, and you weren't actually past the detent mechanism in 2nd or probably any of the other gears toward the rear in the pattern.

Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 I honestly don't know which is why I'm so hesitant to say it's the cables but it's the only thing on the trans I changed. Maybe they have more drag to them and the trans can't push back on them hard enough to move the shifter? Shift effort is a tad higher than the stock cables.

They definitely have more drag. There's a centering spring in or on the trans for side to side motion at the shifter, and I've noticed the extra drag in the cables cause's it to be less effective. I've never had issues with gears popping out, but extra drag could be plausibly be helping. Could also possibly be due to better engagement from the slop in the cable ends being eliminated.

I used to have a crunchyness on 2nd gear, probably due to worn synchro's, and that seems to be gone or at least minimized greatly with these cables. That could be from shortening the throw, but I think the tighter, more consistent motion of the whole assembly could be helping.

[Mazdazilla6]

Originally Posted by PhillyCheese I guess I should do these since the motor is out haha

Oh yea having the engine out would make this soo much easier. Well maybe not the inside portion haha

[aackthpt]

Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 Maybe they have more drag to them and the trans can't push back on them hard enough to move the shifter? Shift effort is a tad higher than the stock cables.

Originally Posted by Trithemius They definitely have more drag. There's a centering spring in or on the trans for side to side motion at the shifter, and I've noticed the extra drag in the cables cause's it to be less effective.

OK, thanks guys, I agree that more drag in general could do it. Does that make shifting slower, or very much harder? Do you think the extra drag is just a new-cable thing and they will wear in so it is lessened? Do you think there is any possibility the cables might wear out quickly due to whatever is causing the drag?

[nindoja]

Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 Well maybe not the inside portion haha

*shudders*

[Mazdazilla6]

Originally Posted by aackthpt OK, thanks guys, I agree that more drag in general could do it. Does that make shifting slower, or very much harder? Do you think the extra drag is just a new-cable thing and they will wear in so it is lessened? Do you think there is any possibility the cables might wear out quickly due to whatever is causing the drag?

I don't feel like I shift any slower and I ffs a good amount. I don't think there's really a break in period, they still feel the same as when I put them on. These cables are beefy, I don't see them ever wearing out.

[dmclngn811993]

BUMP!! anyone knows if this fits a ms3?

[Db09ms3]

You'll have to measure your cables and fabricate the bracket.

Anything fits if you're brave enough