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![]() | | #81 | ![]() |
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__________________ 3rd rebuild on the way...maybe... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score There's not that much normally- I'm suspect cooler ambient temps added something to that result
__________________ Was a Mazdaspeed6 GT #3476 TiGray slicktop Now in a BMW 135i - double the turbos, double the fun! E82.N54 2009 / BSM / A/T / Drop-in / PR CP / Berk Street / MHD / xHP 340hp / 371tq |
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![]() | | #83 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ambient temps was almost the same. Same road, almost same conditions, before and after. Will not say 100% that all gain is only by valve cleaning, but also IC manifold and throttle body, it must be taken out for accessing valves, so it's good time for cleaning. Intake temps are 10F difference. I'am at 120.000km, a cleaning was never done before
__________________ Cobb AP V3 Stratified tune Autotech HPFP internals M2 DP JBR PowerPath stg II Sure RMM Sure Rear Diff Mount TurboXS 50/50 Grimspeed EBCS NGK Iridium step colder Ebay OCC EGR delete 3BAR MAP w/ Harness 3" CBE w/ high flow mufflers Eibach -35mm 18x9 JapanRacing JR3 w/ 235/40/18 Kumho KU39 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Found the answer to my question! I should quit being lazy and read Last edited by Boost > CI; 12-30-2013 at 08:33 PM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Did this about a week ago and my idle rpm dropped 300 rpm and got wayyyy smoother. Throttle response is improved greatly and the car pulls much harder. Surprisingly at 102k miles and having never been cleaned(at least since 52k) they didn't look much worse than many of the pictures posted here. Checked the piston tops with a boroscope while I had everything apart and holy crap, they have about 2 mm of carbon buildup. Left them alone, going to try seafoam here soon. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score LULZ, I have cleaned many valves, none of which were worse than mine. I did not receive any mentionable gains.
__________________ "Stockish" Black Mica 2010 MS3 Genpu Pickles Tune in progress |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Cobb dyno'd before and after cleaning the valves...there wasnt really any power improvement based on flow, however, they said they could run more timing after the valves were cleaned. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I wouldn't doubt no real power gain, but a little quicker spool during daily driving and better throttle response were definitely noticeable. The main gain for me was the smoothness at idle. Mine were gunked up to a point of no longer properly sealing to the head. I had to keep refilling the b12 every 15-20 minutes. Might have just been evaporating though I suppose. Last edited by racingrayson; 01-03-2014 at 09:41 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'll preface this post by stating that I'm a newb. I will be doing a thorough cleaning of my valves as soon as the temp raises above 5 degrees fahrenheit around here. I understand the steps to removing the manifold and everything, but I have not been able to find any info about valve position (again, pry a dumb question) when physically adding b12 cleaner. I noticed some comments about turning the crank but nothing that is really descriptive. Thanks! |
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Refer to the pic in the OP.
__________________ Manley forged long block, secret snail, manifolds, and 2gal E85 tune running like a champ - about to dial in a lot of meth and see what we've got. 13.10@117.1 full weight DD no prep 1/4 (BNR S3 / E85) | |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to JgamB For This Useful Post: | Prallell6 (02-26-2014) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah I did the same except I used gasoline instead of B12, figured if gas seeped into the cylinder, wouldn't be as bad as B12.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mica Mazdaspeed 3. BNR s3, CoolingMist CMGS Meth, Damond TB Plate, JBR FMIC Undermount w/ TR8, JBR 3" Fullpath, Steedspeed EM, Cobb AP v3, Stratified Tuned, Autotech HPFP Internals, CP-e Catted Downpipe, Port and Polished IM with VTCS & Full EGR Delete, Grimmspeed EBCS, 3 BAR MAP Sensor, Turbosmart Dual-port BPV, Koni Sport Yellows, Eibach Prokits, SPC Camber Arms, Cobb FSB and RSB, AWR Front Endlinks, JBR Trilogy Mounts 70a Duro, KX-F3 Full Chassis Braces, Denso Iridium ITV-22, CP-e Safe Seals, SURE TIG IM and TB, Cobb Shift Weight, TWM SS w/Bushings and Specter Hybrid knob. To be installed: SS Brake Lines. |
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![]() | | #93 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Gasoline is the finest and cheapest of solvents... |
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![]() | | #94 | ![]() |
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Also, when I'm at tdc I need to be in compression stroke so valves are closed, correct? | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Oh no.. I just used gas to test if the valves are seated properly. After that I used a harsh cleaner (Mazda Zoom Cleaner)
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mica Mazdaspeed 3. BNR s3, CoolingMist CMGS Meth, Damond TB Plate, JBR FMIC Undermount w/ TR8, JBR 3" Fullpath, Steedspeed EM, Cobb AP v3, Stratified Tuned, Autotech HPFP Internals, CP-e Catted Downpipe, Port and Polished IM with VTCS & Full EGR Delete, Grimmspeed EBCS, 3 BAR MAP Sensor, Turbosmart Dual-port BPV, Koni Sport Yellows, Eibach Prokits, SPC Camber Arms, Cobb FSB and RSB, AWR Front Endlinks, JBR Trilogy Mounts 70a Duro, KX-F3 Full Chassis Braces, Denso Iridium ITV-22, CP-e Safe Seals, SURE TIG IM and TB, Cobb Shift Weight, TWM SS w/Bushings and Specter Hybrid knob. To be installed: SS Brake Lines. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score ahh, good call. I'll probably go that route as well. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just finished cleaning my intake valves using the soaking/walnut shell/scraping method. Here are my observations. I did NOT remove my air cleaner or battery and I was able to get everything out. Note that I do have a MazdaSpeed Blue CAI. This is still one of the more difficult projects I've done. When I did get it apart, my valves at 80kmi looked like a team of squirrels crawled in there and collectively shit 8 times all over my valves...THICK! I was having the smoking turbo issue previously and was lucky enough to get it fixed at the dealership for free. I soaked half the valves in Seafoam and the other half in B12. The B12 was MUCH more powerful and the Seafoam did virtually nothing! Keep in mind I only soaked for an hour because a hot girl could call me and I don't want to waste time torquing on my car. Since I had excellent results cleaning my EGR with oven cleaner, I wonder if it might be the way to go for future valve cleaning? I cleaned out the EGR stuff a few months ago because I was throwing a code. Soaking all the parts with a little foaming oven cleaner and some time worked like a charm and the EGR works perfectly now...meaning no CEL, but constant cancer in the form of recirculated exhaust. Maybe I'll get rid of it. Some suggestions: -Use B-12 NOT Seafoam! -The vinyl tube method didn't seal well for me and created a HUGE mess everywhere, even with a vacuum running. I would consider using modeling clay next time to seal off the intake port, use a LITTLE walnut, and a LOT of air to turbulate it. Maybe take the sparks out to help vent? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Well, did a hot girl call you?...or do you feel guilty for not scrubbing more? |
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__________________ it's fun to do bad things |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to jack_hammer For This Useful Post: | Cheapspeed (05-02-2014) |
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__________________ 2010 LSM e85|cs intake/tip|cp-e tmic|internals|catless dp|magnaflow cb|forge bpv|cs rmm/inserts|cs springs|damond shift plate|ap|cs front lip|freektune|stuff... | |
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![]() | | #101 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Is there any reason to clean the exhaust valves and replace the VVT chain tensioner simultaneously with respect to parts removal and access or are the tasks totally separate? I need to do both and don't want to R&R gaskets, parts twice. |
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![]() | | #102 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score There is no need to clean the exhaust valves since they get hot enough to burn that shit off. You do realize that we do not open the valve cover to clean the valves, right?
__________________ "Stockish" Black Mica 2010 MS3 Genpu Pickles Tune in progress |
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![]() | | #103 | ![]() |
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Yes I realize the valve cover doesn't come off to get to the runners. I'm asking about anything peripheral to that which might need to be removed. I don't wanna do things twice if avoidable. | |
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![]() | | #104 | ![]() |
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The only thing I can say that is worth doing is replacing the PCV. If you wanted to replace the VVT, I don't think the intake mani needs to be taken off for that.
__________________ "Stockish" Black Mica 2010 MS3 Genpu Pickles Tune in progress | |
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What's the name of this thread? | |
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![]() | | #106 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score LOL, well cleaning the valves is not easy as the title would imply and only the intake valves get cleaned. If you want to tackle cleaning the exhaust valves while the motor is still in, please make a writeup for it.
__________________ "Stockish" Black Mica 2010 MS3 Genpu Pickles Tune in progress |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to himurax13 For This Useful Post: | theurgy (05-14-2014) |
![]() | | #107 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Additional tips for cleaning REALLY dirty intake valves HOW TO: Clean your valves - easy & cheap see post #37 |
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...and why do I have such a hard time loading the MazdaSpeedForums website? It times out most of the time and I can't navigate anywhere. | |
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| Cleaning the MZR (DISI) of Carbon w/ Walnut Media Blaster - Some Questions : mazda | This thread | Refback | 10-31-2014 12:56 PM | |
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