How to make a Cx7 transfer case fit your Speed6

[djuosnteisn]

Originally Posted by aviator79 What is the T-case CASE made of?

5 letters and a dash.




Or are you talking about the t-case housing? 90% sure it's just normal aluminum.

[djuosnteisn]

Lol, it was only a joke Andy... no reason to groan me... sheesh buddy. Hahaha.

[SIXual Panda]

Originally Posted by djuosnteisn Lol, it was only a joke Andy... no reason to groan me... sheesh buddy. Hahaha.

Woah! Wtf.. Meant to thank. Haha it made me giggle

Damn phone and fat thumbs.

[Dovydas]

...another Cx7 TC has been successfully installed into Speed6. We'll see how it will do. Thanks everyone!

[qtrmile beast]

So far i have about 200 miles on mine...

[aviator79]

Edit:
I believe these are all just from the bad casting as the CX-7 had similar issues.

[qtrmile beast]

I dont know but i think you could still use this case... not too sure about pic #1 and 3 though

[aviator79]

Originally Posted by qtrmile beast I dont know but i think you could still use this case... not too sure about pic #1 and 3 though

Im sure I could have, but I picked up a cx-7 case with 48K for $187 in RI two days ago. Now trying to figure out how the engine slipped timing and if I can still use it. Looking at your threads trying to figure it out. Need the cam alignment tool though.

[qtrmile beast]

Heres a trick and you don't need the cam alignment tool!!! Take a long screwdriver and put it in the number 1 cylinder and rotate the motor til the screwdriver reaches TDC. Then take the valve cover off and look at the indention in each of the cams from the driverside where the cam alignment tool goes and see if they are even with the line on head. If not then you are out of timing.... ALso the CX7 case is slightly different than the speed6 one FYI...

[aviator79]

Originally Posted by qtrmile beast ALso the CX7 case is slightly different than the speed6 one FYI...

That is what this thread is about, so I will be swapping the shafts, but does the rear drive flange really need to be swapped? Holes of ms6 line up with threaded holes on cx7. Cx7 flange is more robust. Just have to get new bolts. Drive shaft should have no issue if flange sticks out a half inch further back I would think...

[aviator79]

So I bought the wrong seals. Note you must replace the seals on the passenger side of the case as the MS6 shaft is smaller than the CX-7. $38 bucks for the seals. (Edit, more like $8 as dont need the more expensive outer seal (see below)).

LN01-27-238 (Edit, this is the only seal that must be replaced to account for the smaller OD of the shaft. CX7 has two seals in transfer case but the MS6 only has one (on drivers side that mounts to trans). This inner seal LN01-27-238 is all that must be replaced. The ID of this seal is smaller for the smaller OD of the shaft. Take 2 CX7 seals out and replace with this one. Must measure depth as if you press it all he way down to the step you will install too far. I measured mine at adepth = 13.4mm so that is what I aimed to install the new on at. I had a hard time installing as I had nothing that mesured 67mm OD except for a can of olives and chefboyaredee, which did not work very well as I could not keep it square. Ended up using my press to "inch it down" around the edge of the seal. Best way to do it would be the right way, but trying to just happer it down would likely lead to disaster. The way I did it worked but tooK a long time....blablabla...ANYWAYS, looking at the shaft for the MS6 the seal does not have to be placed exactly compared to the CX-7.)

A610-27-397 (EDIT, this is not needed. This goes in trans. )

Inner passenger side is (NO.2) 27-238, which is LN01-27-238 and outer passenger side is 27-622A, which is A610-27-397

[aviator79]

This shows how you get the shaft out of the front cover. As I explained you remove the bearing cap then the thin "shim" or spacer can be slid out. You can lift up on it thru the slots in the other spacer.

[redboat]

Any way to verify the Vin of a CX7 to know if it the correct style transfer case?

[Boltz]

After reading this I am not sure if you guys swapped the MS6 PTO shaft with the bevel gears on it along with the drive shaft flange, or simply left the CX7 PTO shaft but installed the MS6 drive shaft flange + Nut only.


Next... why does it really matter about the "Riveted" CX7 transfer case... why cant you have it removed via "insert persuasion tool here", and simply swap in the entire MS6 internals. If all you are after is the casings? This could open up more options?

[soapisclean]

i just put a cx7 case into my 6, about 200 miles on it. works fine. also if i had to do it again i wouldnt swap drive shaft flanges, there is more than enough room for the thicker flange and you dont have to worry about pinion preload then.

[Thaad]

I am very much a noob to thread although I've had car quite some time, had went abroad for buisness purposes and when I got back my brother had destroyed much of my 2006 speed 6 I left him with. Had the clutch completely replaced now onto the transfer case...1 question, does the transfer case coming from the cx7 have to be a manual or can it be automatic. Thank a bunch fellas

[the public enemy]

Originally Posted by Thaad I am very much a noob to thread although I've had car quite some time, had went abroad for buisness purposes and when I got back my brother had destroyed much of my 2006 speed 6 I left him with. Had the clutch completely replaced now onto the transfer case...1 question, does the transfer case coming from the cx7 have to be a manual or can it be automatic. Thank a bunch fellas

I'm pretty sure there aren't any manual cx7s but I could be stupid

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[qtrmile beast]

Originally Posted by public enemy #1 I'm pretty sure there aren't any manual cx7s but I could be stupid Sent from my SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2

over seas they made it a manual...Also mazdaspeed made a limited edition one over here but i think it was only one of its kind here..


http://www.seriouswheels.com/cars/to...Adrenaline.htm

MSN Cars test drive of the new Mazda CX-7 - YouTube

MSN Cars test drive of the new Mazda CX-7 - YouTube

[p057]

I'll have to keep this in mind.

[qtrmile beast]

I was going to do this to a customers car when we finish building his motor and adding a big turbo to it but it would have cost too much so he backed out..

[SamiChicago]

Originally Posted by qtrmile beast I was going to do this to a customers car when we finish building his motor and adding a big turbo to it but it would have cost too much so he backed out..

@qtrmile beast; thoughts on that?

[qtrmile beast]

Originally Posted by SamiChicago @qtrmile beast; thoughts on that?

What do you mean?

[SamiChicago]

Originally Posted by qtrmile beast What do you mean?

Everyone has said to keep the ms6's due to fitment issues, or? Is he saying he bolted the cx7 case straight up, no modification needed?

[soapisclean]

Originally Posted by SamiChicago Everyone has said to keep the ms6's due to fitment issues, or? Is he saying he bolted the cx7 case straight up, no modification needed?

swap the half shaft, the input shaft, and get new drive shaft bolts from the dealer, and youre done. the whole swap process shouldnt take more than ten minutes. also i used a case from a 2008 automatic USDM cx7. its a really straight forward process honestly.

[MS6fr152]

I have an '06 that needs work on the transfer case. I had the typical leak, tried the rubber coating without success and now it's making metal.

I found a CX7 TC from a 2007 that has the nut securing the output flange, not riveted. Here's the problem: The tech at the shop seems to know his stuff pretty well, and he says that the nut securing the flange also torques down on a crush spacer, P/N 27-171 in the breakdown. He says if you loosen the nut you also have to replace the crush spacer and torque it correctly--Mazda doesn't provide any numbers for how to do that, they say it can't be done in the field. Seems kind of ridiculous but that's where I am.

Does anyone know how to find out how to torque the flange nut back on? Other gearboxes I've worked on make a pretty big deal out of properly setting up the crush spacer. I'd hate to get the backlash or the bearing preload wrong and not find out for a couple thousand miles that the TC ate itself up.

Does anyone have thousands of miles on a CX7 TC yet?

[aviator79]

The internals dont need to be swapped. I was just showing that in case somone wanted to remove the shaft to replace the case cover.

Im pretty sure I just impacted the nut it back on. Other option is just leave the thicker flange on assuming it will fit. I was going to but didnt for some reason. I think it would work. Just need longer bolts I suppose...

And the seals are different and should be changed when you swap the shafts, so ya, its 10 min to swap shafts, but if you dont swap seals the old seal will not touch the smaller ms6 shaft:
How to make a Cx7 transfer case fit your Speed6

Its been a while so I dont recall everything I did. I dont know how many miles have been put on the T-case, but im sure others have put many miles. They are the same internals.

[qtrmile beast]

Originally Posted by aviator79 Its been a while so I dont recall everything I did. I dont know how many miles have been put on the T-case, but im sure others have put many miles. They are the same internals.

Ive got about 20000 miles on my 2009 cx7 transfercase currently without issue fyi... it would have been in my car for 1 year in about 10 days!!

[mrQQ]

Originally Posted by Boltz After reading this I am not sure if you guys swapped the MS6 PTO shaft with the bevel gears on it along with the drive shaft flange, or simply left the CX7 PTO shaft but installed the MS6 drive shaft flange + Nut only. Next... why does it really matter about the "Riveted" CX7 transfer case... why cant you have it removed via "insert persuasion tool here", and simply swap in the entire MS6 internals. If all you are after is the casings? This could open up more options?

^^^ this - can we assume that both type tcases work fine, with one needing a bit more work?

and what's about all the pictures with tcase differences - still doesn't matter does it?

edit: i assume only awd models of cx-7 have this? does it need to be DISI?

[ms6ale]

I just dont understand how I can fit the cx-7 TC in my MS6, the gear on the TC is bigger than the original gear on the MS6 Transfer case.

[ms6ale]

Originally Posted by Dovydas ...another Cx7 TC has been successfully installed into Speed6. We'll see how it will do. Thanks everyone!

How do I deal with the larger head on the cx7 transfercase? I cant get it to fit on my MS6!! please help

[AccuTec]

I'm in the process of hunting down a CX7 TC myself. I've been over this thread and others time and again. What doesn't make sense is the insane price difference between the CX7 and a Speed6 TC! Looking at $299 with miles ranging between 40k - 64k. My issue is the pinion gear lost some teeth and I'm still not sure how that happens. Wish they made a heavier duty set of gears for upgrading torque and horses!

[Amnesiac]

Originally Posted by ms6ale How do I deal with the larger head on the cx7 transfercase? I cant get it to fit on my MS6!! please help

I'm not sure what you're having problems with after reading this thread. Most people replace the driveshaft flange and you are replacing the input shaft with the one from your broken MS6.

[qtrmile beast]

Originally Posted by AccuTec I'm in the process of hunting down a CX7 TC myself. I've been over this thread and others time and again. What doesn't make sense is the insane price difference between the CX7 and a Speed6 TC! Looking at $299 with miles ranging between 40k - 64k. My issue is the pinion gear lost some teeth and I'm still not sure how that happens. Wish they made a heavier duty set of gears for upgrading torque and horses!

I can get one cheaper than the 299 between 60-80,000 mile on it... if you are interested...

[AccuTec]

Originally Posted by qtrmile beast I can get one cheaper than the 299 between 60-80,000 mile on it... if you are interested...

I went ahead and ordered one out of NJ this afternoon. 62K, 2009 CX-7, $325 shipped ($250 for the TC). Hoping to have her back on the road mid week next week or by the weekend. Would love to make it to Nator DC Meet for February.

Edit - Just realized where you are out of... I checked Brandywine and they wanted $1,000! I will definitely keep you in mind if I need anything in the future. Might be looking to do the rear too at some point to get rid of the whine.

[Tomas]

Originally Posted by MS6fr152 I have an '06 that needs work on the transfer case. I had the typical leak, tried the rubber coating without success and now it's making metal. I found a CX7 TC from a 2007 that has the nut securing the output flange, not riveted. Here's the problem: The tech at the shop seems to know his stuff pretty well, and he says that the nut securing the flange also torques down on a crush spacer, P/N 27-171 in the breakdown. He says if you loosen the nut you also have to replace the crush spacer and torque it correctly--Mazda doesn't provide any numbers for how to do that, they say it can't be done in the field. Seems kind of ridiculous but that's where I am. Does anyone know how to find out how to torque the flange nut back on? Other gearboxes I've worked on make a pretty big deal out of properly setting up the crush spacer. I'd hate to get the backlash or the bearing preload wrong and not find out for a couple thousand miles that the TC ate itself up. Does anyone have thousands of miles on a CX7 TC yet?

This dude is partially right.
There is a "collapsible spacer" part# 27-171 that needs to be replaced but IMO only when you change out the bearings for the pinion gear where you then have to readjust for pinion gear height. The process should be the same as the one used for the rear diff since the collapsible spacers in both have the same part number. The only difference is that in the rear diff the companion flange is only coupled to the input shaft which sits inside the coupling unit which is spline connected to the pinion whereas the companion flange on the T case is directly bolted on the pinion gear.

So 27-171 in the T case below is the collapsible spacer.



Which is also 27-171 in this drawing of the rear diff



which is number 9 in this drawing



which is sqashed between these two angular roller bearings in this drawing of the pinion gear in the rear diff.



Now this is where it gets tricky.

The clamping load for the companion flange on the rear diff WHICh DOES NOT DIRECTLY BOLT ONTO THE PINION GEAR but only onto the output shaft is 124 to 166 lbs TQ.

The clamping load on the lock nut that goes on the rear diff pinion gear on the other hand has a clamping load of 177 to 556 lbs of TQ. It's a big difference and a very wide range of clamping load. Don't ask me why.

So tldr if you ask me, the companion nut on the T case needs to clamped down to 177 - 556 lbs of TQ. You will need a spanner for this of course.

Here are the two torque specs

[dynamho]

Replaced with CX-7 transfer case today.

Thanks to soapisclean's hindsight notes, we were able to keep the flange on and use longer fasteners for a reasonably quick swap.

In case any one is curious what went wrong with the previous t-case, one of the conical helical gears got chipped and the piece was swirling around. My car has 67k miles. I believe one of previous owners used to run some big numbers as evidenced from left over AP logs. Perhaps that and possible hard launches contributed to early demise.

The attached image isn't my photo. I got it online, but the red marking shows where it chipped.

The noise it made was similar to worn wheel bearing noise - like an old airplane.

[xliquidx]

Originally Posted by dynamho Replaced with CX-7 transfer case today. Thanks to soapisclean's hindsight notes, we were able to keep the flange on and use longer fasteners for a reasonably quick swap. In case any one is curious what went wrong with the previous t-case, one of the conical helical gears got chipped and the piece was swirling around. My car has 67k miles. I believe one of previous owners used to run some big numbers as evidenced from left over AP logs. Perhaps that and possible hard launches contributed to early demise. The attached image isn't my photo. I got it online, but the red marking shows where it chipped. The noise it made was similar to worn wheel bearing noise - like an old airplane.

That's pretty much exactly what happened to mine... Did you replace any seals as shown a few posts above? I'm about to get a CX7 case and do the swap

[dynamho]

Originally Posted by xliquidx That's pretty much exactly what happened to mine... Did you replace any seals as shown a few posts above? I'm about to get a CX7 case and do the swap

Sorry xliquidx for the delayed reply. The forum is not allowing me to reply to PMs unless I have 15 posts, so I'm posting here.

After the replacement around March, there was burning oil smell emanating from the bonnet. It turns out one of the TC shaft seals (feels like rubber) started leaking, so I had it replaced only a few weeks ago. No problems since, but I'll report if anything happens.

BTW, no need to swap the output shaft flange. Just get longer fasteners and you're set.

That car in your sig looks mean!

[aviator79]

As I said somwhere above you have to replace seals because the shafts are different sizes so if you dont it will leak.

[xliquidx]

Yep just checking thanks guys..


Its just the one seal right?

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