![]() | ![]() |
![]() | ![]() | ![]() | ![]() | ![]() | ![]() |
|
| |||||||
| MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Suspension & Brakes Discussion for suspension items like coilovers, springs, sway bars, mounts,chassis bracing and brakes. |
|
Welcome to Mazdaspeed Forums . You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us. *When you join MSF as a registered user, there will be No Ads. *Registered Members get access to the Off Topic Area of the Forum *Registered Members have an opportunity to upgrade their accounts to VIP, which brings a host of goddies for supporting MSF such as Raffles, Additional Forum Access, More PM Storage, The ability to upload more Images and many other enhancements. *Registered members also get access to the live chat box! |
6Likes ![]() |
| | | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
| |
![]() | | #1 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 25
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Hello, I am looking for suggestions on strut mounts and bearings /bushings. This is for a 2008.5 MS3. I just got a set of Bilstein B8 sport shocks and struts. I hope to install them in the next week or two. On the front of the car I need to replace the strut mounts and bearings as well. I have been doing my research and it seems like Moog and Raybestos are two of the better brands to go with. However, Moog and Raybestos are also out of stock everywhere I look. To make matters worse, no one, and I mean NO ONE, has any idea when they will be back in stock. So my question is are there any other decent brands out there? The other brands I have seen are Dorman Monroe Mevotech MTC KYB (Mounts only) Febi Bilstein (bearings only) – Not the same Bilstein that makes shocks as far as I can tell. I have spent hours searching online to see what people think of these brands and I haven’t come up with any consensus on any of them. I have heard some people say to avoid Monroe, but a few people who sell it have told me they don’t see many problems. I have also read that the OEM mounts and bearings are crap. Also my local stealer wants $$$ for them. The socks and struts I am putting in are going to last for a long time. I don’t want to put bearings and mounts in that will crap out in 40,000 miles. I also don’t want to wait 6 months while moog or raybestos restock to put my shocks on. My back end is clunking pretty bad, and my right front stut has leaked most of its fluid. Does anyone have any advice or experience with any of the above brands? Will any of these last? Thanks in advance -Pete |
| | |
![]() | | #2 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Grand Rapids
Posts: 7
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() Thanks: 2
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score I just installed Bilstein B8 front struts with Monroe 906980 mounts. I went with Monroe because the Moog parts were out of stock at Rockauto, and the OEM parts seemed extremely overpriced. The mounts come with the bearings and look and fit exactly like the OEM parts. The strut boot even fits the bottom of the bearing perfectly. The bearings feel smooth, and the rubber seems to be of a similar hardness to the OE, maybe even slightly stiffer. I bought these "just in case" I needed them when I was installing my struts and at 76k miles, the OEM parts are intact, but obviously worn. Turning the OEM bearings unloaded, it felt like the bearings had some square balls in a few spots where the bearing would audibly click when turned. Nobody wants square balls. |
| | |
| The Following User Says Thank You to hopsonn For This Useful Post: | rfinkle2 (12-20-2013) |
![]() | | #3 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Grand Rapids
Posts: 7
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() Thanks: 2
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score
| |
| | |
![]() | | #4 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: May 2009 Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,887
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 806
Thanked 1,032 Times in 624 Posts
Groans: 10
Groaned at 9 Times in 5 Posts
| Neutral : +1 score IMO the OEM top hats are fine. The failure tends to happen when folks fail to tighten the top nut to the recommended torque specs. You can get them wholesale for $35 per side. Folks tend to advocate reinforced strut bearings (aka bushings) whenever the geometry is modified. I myself encountered an occasional "pop" at full lock on the H&R coilvers (but never at OEM height). The issue never came back after swapping over to KW. I know folks here have purchased both Monroe and Moog. Might benefit you to ask them how those sets have held up. GL. |
| | |
![]() | | #5 | ![]() |
| rabble rabble ![]() Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Delawhere
Posts: 5,318
(View Stats)
iTrader: (1)
Rep Power: 3167 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 9,400
Thanked 5,935 Times in 2,083 Posts
Groans: 221
Groaned at 103 Times in 56 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score I went with the mevotech mounts/bearings for koni yellows with eibach springs. no problems, no noise. the roads suck horribly around me. they were about $32 per side+$8 shipping from rockauto.
__________________ '08 CWP MS3 w/ T3 3071r |
| | |
![]() | | #6 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: New York
Posts: 197
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 131 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 76
Thanked 49 Times in 39 Posts
Groans: 1
Groaned at 6 Times in 2 Posts
| Neutral : +1 score Dorman will fall apart in a couple of months. call local car parts stores. Many of them stock them up in their warehouses. It's what I did a few months ago. It might cost a little more total per side but that might be the only way. |
| | |
![]() | | #7 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 650
(View Stats)
iTrader: (4)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 789
Thanked 475 Times in 307 Posts
Groans: 10
Groaned at 1 Time in 1 Post
| Not Ranked : 0 score Agree with poster above. Dorman is crap. I didn't need new bearings as the KWs use their own but I went with new Dorman rears and ended up needing to make a cotton gasket using a tshirt because of the cast mold rubbing against the body on one side. Either way, the stock mounts are a weak point and will wear out faster with the increased load of stiffer suspension. My vote goes to Monroe or OEM.
__________________ 2009 MS3 GT - JBR SRI/TIP - CS Racepipe - TurboXS CBE - Cobb AP - Stratified E85 Flash Tune Stg. II (294/342) - Stratified Guardian Angel - Autotechs - CP-e S2 RMM - KW V2 - SPC RUCAs |
| | |
![]() | | #8 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Dallas
Posts: 3,888
(View Stats)
iTrader: (8)
Rep Power: 1531 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 2,819
Thanked 2,748 Times in 1,432 Posts
Groans: 145
Groaned at 80 Times in 77 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score monroe is also crap and i know a few other people that had issues with them. Replaced my monroes yesterday with mevotech, when i pulled out the right one the metal part that holds the strut fell apart
__________________ 2011 MS3"Princess GRU" GT2876r AEM Meth Injection, Cobb AP, HTP 3' Intake, KMD interals, Shitty FMIC, JBR 88d RMM, JBR 88d TMM, JBR TIG's x2, JBR BSD, JBR Short THrow Shifter, JBR shifter bushings, Corksport License Plate Bracket, Forge BPV v1, ATP Downpipe, UR Straightpipe Beast Mod, Progress RSB, Koni Yellows, Eibach Pro Kit, Kosei K1-TS Gold 17x8, E85 FREEKTUNE |
| | |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Zdraveca For This Useful Post: | nybe0010 (11-17-2014) |
![]() | | #9 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: New York
Posts: 197
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 131 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 76
Thanked 49 Times in 39 Posts
Groans: 1
Groaned at 6 Times in 2 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm pretty sure that the consensus is that either you get Moog or OEM. Otherwise your going to become a pro at removing struts ![]() Either that or you'll hate your car. |
| | |
![]() | | #10 | ![]() |
| rabble rabble ![]() Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Delawhere
Posts: 5,318
(View Stats)
iTrader: (1)
Rep Power: 3167 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 9,400
Thanked 5,935 Times in 2,083 Posts
Groans: 221
Groaned at 103 Times in 56 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Mevotech mounts still holding up on koni yellows after a year and a half, 15000 mi roughly. They were paired with monroe's speed3 bumpstops and boots. Also replaced the rear mounts with monroe strut mounts and boots earlier this summer, with the VW bumpstops on ebay. Still feels good to me.
__________________ '08 CWP MS3 w/ T3 3071r |
| | |
| The Following User Says Thank You to 802MS3 For This Useful Post: | Prodigalson (03-06-2017) |
![]() | | #11 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: New York
Posts: 197
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 131 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 76
Thanked 49 Times in 39 Posts
Groans: 1
Groaned at 6 Times in 2 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score I guess it'll depend on a number of factors. How bad the streets are, the stiffness of the suspension setup, the amount of mileage being put on under the harsher circumstances. |
| | |
![]() | | #12 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 389
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 155
Thanked 124 Times in 88 Posts
Groans: 3
Groaned at 2 Times in 2 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Don't get Moog top hats unless you like it when you front suspension sounds like its falling apart.
__________________ 2009 CWP MS3 | JBR short shift plate, JBR shifter bushings, CP-e stage 2 RMM, JBR RSB, JBR Wide-Path, CS downpipe, UR catted test pipe, Cobb cat-back, Forge BPV V1, Swift Spec R springs, Bilstein B8, Whiteline KCA428 ALK, Whiteline Bumpsteer Correction, Corksport injector seals, Weds Sports SA55M 18x8 +48, Bridgestone S-04 245/40/18, BLOX Limited 490g shiftknob Dyno'ed at 277whp/290lb-ft on 91 piss |
| | |
![]() | | #13 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Erie, PA
Posts: 178
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 225
Thanked 127 Times in 65 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 1 Time in 1 Post
| Not Ranked : 0 score My right front Moog shit the bed after 1 year and 15k miles. My left front is still okay but makes a few awkward noises. I swapped for OEM and things are going great thus far. |
| | |
![]() | | #14 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 273
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 179
Thanked 59 Times in 42 Posts
Groans: 57
Groaned at 3 Times in 2 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score I went with all OEM parts when I installed my FSDs. No complaints.
__________________ Cosmic Blue Mica 2007 MS3 GT- MSCAI, HT, E-Focus RMM, FSDs, JBR Rear ARB and billet mounts Hellrot 1995 318ti Club Sport- Turner/Conforti chip, Turner SS clutch line, UUC Motorwerks pedal bushings, clutch stop, and RK II Desert Sand Pearl 1999 Wrangler Sahara- Banks SS Exhaust manifold, Hella H4 E-Codes, Bilstein HDs Fireball Orange 1996 Speed Triple 900- Alcon six-pot front calipers, Sebring 3 into 1 "Off Road" exhaust |
| | |
![]() | | #15 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: New York
Posts: 197
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 131 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 76
Thanked 49 Times in 39 Posts
Groans: 1
Groaned at 6 Times in 2 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Has anybody tried the corksport camber plates as an option for stronger upper mounts? It seems that the mounts themselves are failing faster than the bearings. Perhaps the weaker link of the two is the upper mount. |
| | |
![]() | | #16 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: New York
Posts: 197
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 131 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 76
Thanked 49 Times in 39 Posts
Groans: 1
Groaned at 6 Times in 2 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Hey guys, so finally after 1.5 yrs my Moog upper strut mounts are creaking and popping constantly on one side. Some of the roads that I travel on to work are somewhat bad and I drive very fast very often. These are the 3rd pair that I have gone through in the last 4 years. I set my shocks to the softest setting just to prolong the use and minimize the wear & tear on the mounts. I'm considering getting the CS camber plates just to not have to deal with this anymore but I'm hesitating because I think that all the abuse the mounts are taking are going to be transferred to the towers and possibly start to tear them apart which will cost much more than the repeated ~160 dollars every 2 years for the OEM ones. I haven't tried the OEM mounts with my koni shocks yet. Just Dorman and Moog. NVH is near it's limit. After driving for an hour straight and the turn the car off my ears are totally relieved What do you guys recommend/suggest? Should I go the CS route and put a thin layer of felt on top or try the OEM ones and risk blowing another $160 in 2 years? |
| | |
![]() | | #17 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 262
(View Stats)
iTrader: (1)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 63
Thanked 113 Times in 71 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score OEM, my moogs were trashed after 6,000 miles and I wasn't about to put the same garbage back on the car. The moog bearings seem to be ok, its the mounts that literally fall apart. My original OEM bearings are what went bad before so maybe make a combination of the two?
__________________ Q-Ship: 2008 CBM Mazdaspeed3 Sport Mazdaspeed CAI, Mazdapseed Sport CBE, COBB Downpipe, Hypertech, Autotech HPFP, Corksport RMM, Prosport Boost Gauge In Blockhead Vent Pod, Corksport TMIC, JBR Boost Tubes, JBR Short Shifter, JBR Shifter Mounts, COBB Shift Weight, Miata JDM GT Shift Knob, Bridgestone S-04 PP, Motorcraft Unicorn Juice, Bilstein B6's. Just Some Old Bullshit: 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Lots of mods, Lifted, Loaded, Locked. Goes anywhere, Does anything, Travelled the distance to the moon and then some. |
| | |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Cirruslydakota For This Useful Post: | cyber-ms3 (08-30-2015) |
![]() | | #18 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 389
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 155
Thanked 124 Times in 88 Posts
Groans: 3
Groaned at 2 Times in 2 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score The moogs are garbage, get either Mazda OEM or Ford OEM top hats and bearings.
__________________ 2009 CWP MS3 | JBR short shift plate, JBR shifter bushings, CP-e stage 2 RMM, JBR RSB, JBR Wide-Path, CS downpipe, UR catted test pipe, Cobb cat-back, Forge BPV V1, Swift Spec R springs, Bilstein B8, Whiteline KCA428 ALK, Whiteline Bumpsteer Correction, Corksport injector seals, Weds Sports SA55M 18x8 +48, Bridgestone S-04 245/40/18, BLOX Limited 490g shiftknob Dyno'ed at 277whp/290lb-ft on 91 piss |
| | |
| The Following User Says Thank You to EvoFire For This Useful Post: | cyber-ms3 (08-30-2015) |
![]() | | #19 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: New York
Posts: 197
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 131 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 76
Thanked 49 Times in 39 Posts
Groans: 1
Groaned at 6 Times in 2 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score So the Corksport camber plates are overkill for my application and the OEM will easily handle the Koni yellows on their softest setting with medium bad roads? |
| | |
![]() | | #20 | ![]() |
| Approved MSF Vendor ![]() Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 163
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 160 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 48
Thanked 194 Times in 75 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 3 Times in 2 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score I to suggest using the OEM bearings. I believe them to be the best unit available. Also do note our camber plates replace the top portion of the OEM strut mount. but you will still use the lower portion where the actual bearings are. The use of our plates simply gain you better articulation and adjustment setting you would not other wise have with an OEM set up.
__________________ I was given the option to edit this. Not sure if it worked or not. |
| | |
| The Following User Says Thank You to CorkSport Vincent For This Useful Post: | cyber-ms3 (08-31-2015) |
![]() | | #21 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,825
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 1,501
Thanked 1,931 Times in 1,065 Posts
Groans: 157
Groaned at 47 Times in 31 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score I put in Moog bearings when I installed my Bilsteins. The Moogs both started making noise pretty soon. I swapped to the Dorman brand and they are doing just fine. It was all I could get quickly at the time, but they seem well-made and are holding up just fine on the shit that passes for the secondary paved roads around here. Bilsteins are stiff and will put more impact on those bearings. I've always believed in Moog, but something ain't right with the ones they make for our cars, or at least not with Bilstein struts.
__________________ 2017 Audi Q5 3.0 T (supercharged) Stage 2+ EPL tune, JHM overdrive crank pulley, EPL supercharger pulley, ZF8 TCU tune, aFe/034 intake, modified air box. 480 hp. Sunlight Silver '08 MS3 GT Mods: (Sold 1/25/2019 after 10+ years of ownership) BNR Stage 1 (to fix smoking K04 turbo), TurboXS 3" Catless DP/RP "Stealthback" into stock CBE, Vibrant 3 inch Ultra Quiet Resonator in RP section, Magnaflow 3 1/2" exhaust tip, Mazdaspeed CAI w/air straightener and K&N conical filter, NGK 6510 Iridium IX one step colder plugs, Hypertech tune, Autotech HPFP internals, Stock BPV (works perfectly), Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R's (stock size on stock rims); Hawk HPS pads; SURE RMM; Grimmspeed EBCS (2 port mode), Bilstein B6's, SPC rear camber arms. |
| | |
![]() | | #22 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: New York
Posts: 197
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 131 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 76
Thanked 49 Times in 39 Posts
Groans: 1
Groaned at 6 Times in 2 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score I think I'm going to go OEM all the way and see what happens. Dorman, I made them squeak within 4 months. Moog, 6,000 miles or 1.5 yrs and they sound like their falling apart. If OEM doesn't work then I'm going with metal top hats, OEM bearings and hoping my strut towers don't tear apart. |
| | |
![]() | | #23 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: trolling dungeon
Posts: 883
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 486
Thanked 919 Times in 352 Posts
Groans: 3
Groaned at 5 Times in 5 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score I just bought the koni yellow/h&r spring combo from edge. the Monroe tophat mentioned earler, does it come with the bearing or is the bearing separate??? or should I say fuck it and actually go oem?. (just not trying to break my wallet.)
__________________ Meth.............. |
| | |
![]() | | #24 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 389
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 155
Thanked 124 Times in 88 Posts
Groans: 3
Groaned at 2 Times in 2 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Bearing is separate, go to Ford and ask for the bearing for a 2012 Focus, non ST, its like $10
__________________ 2009 CWP MS3 | JBR short shift plate, JBR shifter bushings, CP-e stage 2 RMM, JBR RSB, JBR Wide-Path, CS downpipe, UR catted test pipe, Cobb cat-back, Forge BPV V1, Swift Spec R springs, Bilstein B8, Whiteline KCA428 ALK, Whiteline Bumpsteer Correction, Corksport injector seals, Weds Sports SA55M 18x8 +48, Bridgestone S-04 245/40/18, BLOX Limited 490g shiftknob Dyno'ed at 277whp/290lb-ft on 91 piss |
| | |
| The Following User Says Thank You to EvoFire For This Useful Post: | Prodigalson (03-06-2017) |
![]() | | #25 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: W. Suffield, CT
Posts: 3,934
(View Stats)
iTrader: (11)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 674
Thanked 1,701 Times in 1,066 Posts
Groans: 67
Groaned at 17 Times in 12 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score IDK how different the MS3 strut mounts are than MS6. I found that my OEMs were clunking because they loose tolerances between the hole in the top hat where the bearing sits and diameter of the lip on the bearing that seats in the top hat hole along with same issue on spring perch which allowed lots of play and caused a clunking noise. At least I think that was the problem and the KYBs I bought were worse. Had to use silicone in them to fill the gap.
__________________ MS6 - BNRs3 - Cobb AP - JBR Tru-3.0 - Spearco FMIC - MAC EBCS - Synapse BOV - DNP - CPE DP->MF - SU RRM - TTFMM - TT + CPE Diff Mounts - Mrlilguy HPFP - Projector HID fogs - TSX projector retrofit - LI jammers - Advan RZs w/ 245 PSSs - Koni - WL RSB |
| | |
![]() | | #26 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: New York
Posts: 197
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 131 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 76
Thanked 49 Times in 39 Posts
Groans: 1
Groaned at 6 Times in 2 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score
| |
| | |
![]() | | #27 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 389
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 155
Thanked 124 Times in 88 Posts
Groans: 3
Groaned at 2 Times in 2 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score The MS6 is double wishbone in the front, completely different design from the Mac struts of the 3
__________________ 2009 CWP MS3 | JBR short shift plate, JBR shifter bushings, CP-e stage 2 RMM, JBR RSB, JBR Wide-Path, CS downpipe, UR catted test pipe, Cobb cat-back, Forge BPV V1, Swift Spec R springs, Bilstein B8, Whiteline KCA428 ALK, Whiteline Bumpsteer Correction, Corksport injector seals, Weds Sports SA55M 18x8 +48, Bridgestone S-04 245/40/18, BLOX Limited 490g shiftknob Dyno'ed at 277whp/290lb-ft on 91 piss |
| | |
![]() | | #28 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Houston
Posts: 57
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 4
Thanked 16 Times in 7 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score I found that Sachs offers a strut mount kit (both parts together) - found it at AutoBarn for $35 a kit. I asked where it was made and was told Italy, so I took a chance on it. I just received them today and it turns out that they are actually OEM parts! The bearing/bushing/whatever is SKF (made in France, same PN as OEM), and the mount/top hat is actually FoMoCo, just with the FoMoCo logos ground off. So, OEM parts for less than half the cost from a discount dealer website. $70 total for both sides, and AutoBarn has free shipping over $69. It took a week and a half to be delivered, but I wasn't in a rush. I can't link to it directly, so you have to search by car year, make, etc all the way to the shocks and struts category. Sachs 802 576 is the one. I don't think the OEM parts are that great, but I'd prefer them over any other aftermarket brand.
__________________ -Stephen |
| | |
| The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to MazdaSteve3 For This Useful Post: | 07Blkspd3 (07-20-2016), cyclist20 (06-12-2016), Nliiitend1 (09-19-2015), Prodigalson (03-06-2017), stockms3 (04-09-2016) |
![]() | | #29 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 389
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks: 155
Thanked 124 Times in 88 Posts
Groans: 3
Groaned at 2 Times in 2 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Unfortunately, the OEM parts are the best you got unless you go full camber plates or coils in the front.
__________________ 2009 CWP MS3 | JBR short shift plate, JBR shifter bushings, CP-e stage 2 RMM, JBR RSB, JBR Wide-Path, CS downpipe, UR catted test pipe, Cobb cat-back, Forge BPV V1, Swift Spec R springs, Bilstein B8, Whiteline KCA428 ALK, Whiteline Bumpsteer Correction, Corksport injector seals, Weds Sports SA55M 18x8 +48, Bridgestone S-04 245/40/18, BLOX Limited 490g shiftknob Dyno'ed at 277whp/290lb-ft on 91 piss |
| | |
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| |
Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Strut Mounts | TrueReddd | Mazdaspeed3/6 General Discussion | 12 | 06-11-2013 06:06 PM |
| Is it possible to replace strut mounts without completely removing the strut (bottom) from car? | MARKSPEED3 | MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Suspension & Brakes | 8 | 04-15-2013 11:11 AM |