Time for a caliper rebuild?

[JackDG]

Swapped out the pads on the rear calipers.

The left side looked great, and the piston screwed back in without any issue.
The right side looked a little worse for wear, and the piston was really tricky to screw in.
Gave the car a run today and the right side disc was much hotter than even the fronts. I couldn't touch it where I could touch the opposide side.

Is all this indicative of needing a rebuild?

I've done this on motorbikes, is the same on car? just a case of swapping out the piston and seals?

Many thanks

Jack

[08mzr]

It sounds like you've got a sticking caliper. Its usually better to just replace them because it can be difficult to find a rebuild kit. But if you have the skills and can find a rebuild kit, have at it.
Whatever you decide make sure you do both sides and do a brake fluid flush because the old brake fluid is most likely the reason the caliper failed in the first place.
Also something to check. Try pushing back that sticky calier again, but open the bleeder. If opening the bleeder makes it easier its most likely the flex hose causing the caliper to stick. If it is the hose id recommend s valiper rebuild as well because calipers do not enjoy getting hot.
Id recommend replacing of the flex hoses anyway due to age, the fact they got hot from the sticking caliper and most likely lack of proper brake maintenance from previous owner.

[JackDG]

With the caliper/pads off the wheel hub is still a little resistive to turning. I can turn it by hand but it feels tighter than the other side - driving I never noticed any noise or reduced mpg, is this something to invistigate further?

There's a few rebuild kits here in the UK on eBay.
Had it apart and the piston is very corroded and pitted, seal and dust boot are in pretty bad conditions as well. Just need to pick up a circlip tool tomorrow to swap the threading to the new piston.

[5doorsoffury]

Did you check the slide pins for binding?

[JackDG]

Originally Posted by 5doorsoffury Did you check the slide pins for binding?

Yeah, slide pins are nice and greased and free too move. Rebuilt kit has new rubber boots for them anyway so I'll add those as well. I'll add a picture of the Piston and Seal and it is pretty obvious that these needed replacing.

[JackDG]

Finished the rebuild, new piston and seals were for sure needed, bled the system and everything seems good.

Drove the car for 30min, up to highway speeds. After stopping the rotor still sizzles water and the wheels + lug nuts are warm, where as the opposite wheel is normal.

Im suspecting what ever is causing the resistance to turning in the hub is the culprit of the heat. Is there a better way to tackle this than just buying a new hub/axle assemble?

Brake is definitely not binding as after pumping up the brake pedal I am able to turn the wheel by hand.

[JackDG]

Im 99% sure my brake is not binding.

With my calipers / pads / wheel removed its very difficult to turn the hub via the bolts - requires both hands and some strength.

The opposite hub spins totally freely in the same set up - does this mean the dif is ok?

Can this be an issue with my dif? or is it more likely the bearing?

[08mzr]

Still the rear?

I would remove the axle on that one and see if it's still difficult to turn. At that point you may as well have a wheel bearing handy to install

[JackDG]

Originally Posted by 08mzr Still the rear? I would remove the axle on that one and see if it's still difficult to turn. At that point you may as well have a wheel bearing handy to install

Had a look at the axles today.



I'm going to assume this axle is broken? This is on the side that is easy to turn so that would make sense. Is it possible the axle portion that is 'stuck' is causing the other axle to be tougher (As its a LSD?) Or is there a chance my differential is fubar?

[08mzr]

With what you're describing it's a broken axle.
When you turn the tougher side does the opposite side axle move at all?

[JackDG]

Originally Posted by 08mzr With what you're describing it's a broken axle. When you turn the tougher side does the opposite side axle move at all?

Yes it does, up until the broken cv joint. (so this is a good sign for the diff right).

Im removing the broken axle now, knocking it out with a chisel/hammer following the guide on here.

Do I need to remove the ABS sensor? the guide says remove the wheel well bracket but then does not mention the sensor itself.

Thanks for your help on this.

[08mzr]

It's been a while since I've seen the rear end of a speed6. but I dont think you do need to remove the sensor.

[JackDG]

Got it out without removing the sensor - looks like the bracket is removed for slack when the hub drops lower.

Well, axle fell apart at the CV joint at the diff, I guess theres my problem. It actually made the opposite wheel turn free as well so I think im sorted...Apart from getting the stuck bit out of the diff