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 Old 08-27-2014, 10:25 AM   #81
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So much WIN in this thread...
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 Old 08-29-2014, 06:30 PM   #82
 
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Originally Posted by torquemaniac View Post
I stopped working on the manifold fabrication because the girlfriend is gonna give birth any day now,
Any update on your other project?
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 Old 08-29-2014, 07:21 PM   #83
 
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Well my girlfriend was expecting on the 24th of august...seems baby is not ready to get out yet...but because it can happen any time, ive been doing only small project

But here is some stuff...

Oil pan seal cutter Tools



Made a die out of welded 1/2 steel plate...machine the die to the correct shape and pressed the die in the stainless steel pipe with the Carver press...and voila, a tapered pipe to go with a 3'' ID donut gasket (for the downpipe fabrication)



If anyone is looking for those donut gasket, the part number is 31556 (Napa, Autozone...carry those)

Crank pulley holder tool I made with two pipes welded on top of each other (to had thickness) + some machining and welding (thanks to @maisonvi; for the drawing)



Took home a 1/8 sheet of PTFE to make a TIG (or two)...the 1/16 TIG I got from JBR doesnt do shit (no offense to JBR...) even with the throttle coolant bypass (manifold gets freakin hot)...nice little project with a dremel


Got a 140amp tig welder a couple weeks ago with some 0.035 filler and a gas lens kit (seen Mr. Tig do some really nice weld with this entry level welder)...never welded with tig...learning this will be fun


Thats it for now...
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"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 08-31-2014, 01:33 PM   #84
 
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Well, I dont have time to do a lot of physical work on the car right now, but my mind is racing like crazy...

Recently Ive been thinking ''what if that Holset have too much lag'' to my liking?

Im not stupid, but I like to think outside the box and come up with crazy idea (this is what I do for a living...R&D)...and anti-lag system is on my mind right now

The criteria of the system im looking for :
- something that wont affect reliability of the engine
- something that can be made for cheap (with some ingenuity)
- something I can make by myself

Im not into aggressive system that retard timing and inject fuel in the exhaust manifold, because of the excessive wear on the car parts (manifold, turbo, cat...), and I dont want to use the system only on the track, but as a daily fun factor

Compound turbo setup is not an option because I dont want to change my top-mount setup, and I dont like the idea of a small turbo as primary because of the restrictive nature of the small exhaust housing

Twin-scroll and VGT are also out of the equation (cost and change to current setup)

After making some research, I found two system that seemed promising for my usage (provide some boost at low rpm before the Holset kicks in) :

Borg Wagner E-booster system eBOOSTER® | BorgWarner Turbo Systems

Thomas Knight Electric roots blower Thomas Knight Turbo Electric Supercharger - Tech Review - Turbo Magazine

The E-booster system is really neat, but after some research, the potential to fabricate this is null...because of the ultra-high speed electric motor required (those motors are a rare breed, and are probably not available tothe public...)

The thomas Knight system is more brute and require more space, but is totally feasable in my mind

I found the patent (US20040211398A1) and some cheap (used) Eaton M62 supercharger on eBay, but the 3 required motors really adds up to the cost

Being able to launch with 10-15psi with automatic tranny would really take the torque multiplying effect of the torque converter to another level

With the disadvantages of the 2 systems in mind, I decided to start from a clean slate

Here is my basic idea : take a small turbo compressor side (housing + wheel), fabricate a center housing with bearing (journal?) and a cavity for a pelton type wheel

The pelton wheel will be spinned by a very high pressure water jet...said water will be compressed by a pressure washer pump (Enki hydroforming thread inspired me)

The water jet will be concentrated at a precise location on the pelton wheel for maximum efficiency (same effect as a very small A/R turbine housing, except there is no back pressure created because its not conneted to the engine)

The water should also keep the compressor housing cool (should help with the compressed air temp and bearing longevity)...a small heat exchanger could be used to cool the water coming from the collecting cavity before it goes back to the pump

The pressure washer pump could be powered by an inverter with some battery and supercapacitors (the device will only be used for short busrt)...im no electrical nerds, just thinking out loud

The device could be located in place of the battery (there is a good amount of space in this area on the CX-7)

In a drag race, the system could be activated before the launch to gain some momemtum (bypass mode) or to build up some pressure

Nice thing about this system is that it doesnt affect idling if properly rigged

I searched on the web for something similar to my idea but only found this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Q_tarGp3uY

Pelton wheel in action https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoJn9WQq_hQ

I dont think I will get 100000rpm or big boost with this, but I will try to get a very cheap turbo (K03...) and try it out in the near future
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Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler with AMG CWA-100 pump// Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 09-01-2014, 06:56 AM   #85
 
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Crazy talk lol

Check out this engine, there is more information available, I think I initially read about it in Wheels magazine Australia.

Production Jaguar C-X75 will make 500 HP from 1.6L twin-charged four - Autoblog

The supercharger is clutched so it doesn't drain power at higher revs.

I think your proposal is a bit too complex and you get losses every time you convert energy. I wonder if you could do a clutched capacitor driven supercharger. These only rotate at about twice engine revs so up to say 15000 rpm. They do draw a few kW from the host motor though so you would need a pretty strong electric motor.
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 Old 09-02-2014, 10:40 AM   #86
 
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You have great idea even if some doesn't works, just to try them could be very interresting. If you were living a little bit more like 250km north east i would probably try to visit your garage on a friday night with some beer and more crazy ideas to try some of thems!

I have planned myself some electric turbo but as you stated, high rpm motor isn't easy to find cheap. Their was a type availaible before peoples start making some crappy one with a 1amp 12v motor. I remember that fan running with a 12v 50amps that could explode a plastic bag in few seconds. That fan could have reduce lag but not the 10watts on ebay for 20$.
So i bought 10x 12v 7A/h battery to get 120vdc to run a leaf blower . (Serial motor works the same on AC or DC) I found one that was powerfull enought to create 1 psi at 0 flow and could for sure help lag. But my plans was more to try it on a small n/a engine. It never happend, i sold the car without trying it.
The problem was to either have a diverter valve for incomming flow. I don't know how much restriction could create the leaf blower if the motor isn't receiving it's voltage....I know it will turn from the flow but this would create a restriction when not used and would create lag or power loss. Supplying 13-14Amps at 120v from the engine would suck more energy than what is created. So a diverter valve that would seal enough 1 side when the blower run is something that would be required and i don't have machine tools to make one.

My plans was to run the blower as a booster to pass car or go up hill.
The other problems would have been the mapping to get a little more fuel when using it to gain something instead of running lean and get no power from it like all the TV test made with similar device.

The other option in my mind is to find a vortech SC and fit an electric motor to it like thomas knight but using a ,manny times, more efficient SC, than a roots model.
The vortech is a macanical turbo that get it's high speed with a gear box from crank RPM. So a serial 8-10000 rpm motor is possible and would simulate crank speed with pulley gains.
In both case, the power to drive it would comes from batteries drained under burst and slowly recharged while cruizing and remain unloaded from the engine when we need max power.

The pelton wheel is a nice idea,i don't know if you could use a 12v high flow/pressure pump from meth systems or you would need more flow ?

Before or between all that, do you know the compressor and exaust wheel size of your turbo to compare it with usual bolt on turbo for the dizi?
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 Old 09-02-2014, 12:43 PM   #87
 
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Originally Posted by Ozynigma View Post
Crazy talk lol

Check out this engine, there is more information available, I think I initially read about it in Wheels magazine Australia.

Production Jaguar C-X75 will make 500 HP from 1.6L twin-charged four - Autoblog

The supercharger is clutched so it doesn't drain power at higher revs.

I think your proposal is a bit too complex and you get losses every time you convert energy. I wonder if you could do a clutched capacitor driven supercharger. These only rotate at about twice engine revs so up to say 15000 rpm. They do draw a few kW from the host motor though so you would need a pretty strong electric motor.
500hp from a 1.6L engine is crazy

The Thomas Knight system use an electricaly driven supercharger...the problem is the electric motor required ($$$)

He uses 3X electric motor to run the supercharger, but I think one motor should do the trick...you just need the right one (one that can be run at high output for short burst of time and is compact)

Here is one such motor Robot MarketPlace - PMG 132 Perm Motor

Here a discussion of the capacity of this type of motor (he state that the manufactuere rating can be double for short burst of time)

To not drain power on the DISI engine, the electric anti-lag system should not be powered by the OEM battery, but by another set of battery used exclusively for this...the alternator can be used to charge the anti-lag system when cruising...

Another drawback of the Thomas Knight supercharger is the size and weight of the system

With my proposal, the system is pretty compact (a small turbo compressor housing with machined center housing + the high pressure pump)

In my proposal, the high pressure pump can also be install remotely like a water/air intercooler system

By having a very light weight rotating assy (versus the heavy roots supercharger...), my system should require less power to operate

The high pressure water (coolant) jet that is used to ''spin'' the impeller wheel will cool the compressor housing and provide a cooler inatke charge (gained efficiency)

There is certainly loss of efficiency because of energy conversion, but its a compromise due to the unavailabilty of ultra-high speed electric motor

Super efficiency is also not required because my system will not use the OEM battery power
(only the alternator is used during cruise)

Again, this is just speculation...a lot of experimenting would need to be done just for the jet nozzle, nozzle position, impeller wheel design/type, impeller wheel housing design

Just for fun, I think I will try to spin my spare K04 (CX-7) with my pressure washer (1800psi)...like the video shown before, I will remove the turbine housing and experiment with the nozzle position...then I will try to load the turbo (pressure/flow testing...not sure how to do this)
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Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler with AMG CWA-100 pump// Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 09-02-2014, 02:56 PM   #88
 
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You would need a oil pump to keep the bushing oiled and it's do-able. You may use a MAF to read flow on vaccum side and a restrictor plate to create boost?

I don't know how fast you can spin it with a water jet...will it be fast enough?
At the end, to reduce lag, you don't need much boost but large flow so maybe it could work. Would it be easier with a larger turbo at slower speed than using k04...i bet so looking at counpound setup but since i never seen it working it's 100% R&D
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If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 09-02-2014, 04:27 PM   #89
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
You would need a oil pump to keep the bushing oiled and it's do-able. You may use a MAF to read flow on vaccum side and a restrictor plate to create boost?

I don't know how fast you can spin it with a water jet...will it be fast enough?
At the end, to reduce lag, you don't need much boost but large flow so maybe it could work. Would it be easier with a larger turbo at slower speed than using k04...i bet so looking at counpound setup but since i never seen it working it's 100% R&D
Theres a company that make belt-driven turbo (maybe its Vortech), and they have a neat system to aerate oil in the gear housing for lubrication (there is a small reserve of oil inside, like an oil pan...no oil flow from a pump)

With my proposal, the oil requirement is less because the water (or coolant) will keep everything cool

This company also use bigger turbo (vs smaller) and run them at slower speed to give the required flow (like you suggest)...this will need to be investigated

The diverter valve you mentionned in the psot before has already been adressed in this thread Twin Charged Mazdaspeed 3

The leak blower thing as been done with some success here (gas-powered...) http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e..._supercharger/

I dont see gas-powered twin leaf blower under my hood
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2011 CX-7 AWD 2.3 turbo
Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler with AMG CWA-100 pump// Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement

Last edited by torquemaniac; 09-03-2014 at 05:30 AM.
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 Old 09-03-2014, 09:04 AM   #90
 
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interresting thread about leaf blowers....will read it.

The twin charged 3 mentionned, use the more efficient SC i was talking about but somehow harder to find cheap VS twin roots models commonly used by Grandprix 3.8 GTP. He gives a lot of infos about it too but these kind of hybrid turbo/SC are common upgrade for Camaro/Mustang with Jackson racing, Vortex (or vortech i'm not sure) Paxton etc.
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 Old 09-03-2014, 02:13 PM   #91
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
Before or between all that, do you know the compressor and exaust wheel size of your turbo to compare it with usual bolt on turbo for the dizi?
Turbo specs are on page 1...

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 Old 09-04-2014, 08:43 AM   #92
 
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Their is a lot of devices that would works on papers but prototypes doesn't make it to the market and if you want one, it will cost you the price of the car...
I have read about some alternator connected to a turbibe to get a very high output alternator using wasted exaust gaz then you could connect it back to a powered turbo motor and just have wires in between. no boost creep, no real lag if you have a battery to store it...But how much does it cost?
I completly miss your specs ,sorry for that, but your holset is like a 3076 with a little larger turbine so you already know it may lag a little...You may check what happend with ms6 and GT3076 on a manifold and add few rpm for yours...
The atx transaxle may help lag between shift but from vac to boost it may be a concern....Especially when cx7 start with a smaller k04 from the beginning so the transition will look worst. Keep in mind some runs 3582 and larger on the street!!!
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 Old 09-06-2014, 07:03 AM   #93
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
Their is a lot of devices that would works on papers but prototypes doesn't make it to the market and if you want one, it will cost you the price of the car...
I have read about some alternator connected to a turbibe to get a very high output alternator using wasted exaust gaz then you could connect it back to a powered turbo motor and just have wires in between. no boost creep, no real lag if you have a battery to store it...But how much does it cost?
I completly miss your specs ,sorry for that, but your holset is like a 3076 with a little larger turbine so you already know it may lag a little...You may check what happend with ms6 and GT3076 on a manifold and add few rpm for yours...
The atx transaxle may help lag between shift but from vac to boost it may be a concern....Especially when cx7 start with a smaller k04 from the beginning so the transition will look worst. Keep in mind some runs 3582 and larger on the street!!!
Having the turbine and compressor side independent (generator/motor) would be insane, unfortunately its not something I will be able to do at a low cost

Lag between vac and boost is an interesting subject for me...I know people say that the air between the turbo and throttle body is always a bit under pressure, but im not so sure about that

I know from fact, that if I remove the BPV hose (recirc. to intake) at idle, there is a good breese coming out of the BPV...but what happens when the throttle is suddenly opened...is there a lag between vac and boost like you said (especialy with bigger turbo)?

Some people on other platform have been using what is called a D-valve (Diverter valve or Dan Culkin valve) to improve ''transient response'' between vac and boost : its just a big check-valve positioned before the throttle body, that open when there is vac between the turbo and throttle...when the valve open, it supply atmospheric air directly to the throttle body...when the turbo start to pressurize the charge pipe, the valve close and boost is supplied to the throttle (manifold)

The D-valve could be a solution for the vac to boost lag (if it exist)

I have a spare boost tube with a meth port on it...I will put this on the car this week-end and plug my boost gauge to it...will monitor the vac/boost at part throttle and WOT (however, the results from the K04 may not apply to the HY35...)

I was looking on the net for ways to refine my anti-lag system, and found out that someone else has already patented the idea and tested a system similar to mine

Attached are 3 patents from the same guy (I plan on using a lot more pressure to drive the turbine, but is manufacturing ideas are very good)
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"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 09-06-2014, 07:08 AM   #94
 
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In for results this looks amazing!!
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 Old 09-06-2014, 09:50 AM   #95
 
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Made the test with the gauge hooked to the boost tube before the throttle body...results (for K04) : there is no vacuum at any time (at least not something that can be measured in InHg)...the gauge show ±0psi at the minimum
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 Old 09-06-2014, 02:06 PM   #96
 
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I have seen the title of this thread a few times and skipped over it. Finally jumped in an read through it. Damn man, you have some serious skill. I wish I could fabricate my own stuff lol. Very nice work thus far.
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 Old 09-08-2014, 07:00 PM   #97
 
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Started the rod swap today...got about 3hrs of free time to work on the car

Jacked the car then removed : passenger side front wheel and splash guard, TMIC, intake, airbox, battery, exhaust manifold, coil harness, and then some...







I tested the crank pulley holder, and was really disappointed with the fit...I was hoping for a more snug fit (there is a lot of slack between the pulley and tool)...should of taken some time to make my own design



Only concern I have right now is removal of the crank bolt...from what I heard a heavy duty impact wrench is a must...dont have this on hand
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"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 09-08-2014, 07:43 PM   #98
 
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With all the work involved, why not go for a triple turbo setup?
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File Type: jpg turbo1.jpg (61.5 KB, 66 views)
File Type: jpg turbo2.jpg (60.0 KB, 64 views)
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 Old 09-08-2014, 08:32 PM   #99
 
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LOL...way too complicated

The guy that made the patents with the hydraulic assisted turbocharger really got some nice idea (Garrett bought one of the early patents, but never commercialised it...the system was called the HydraCharger)...if I ever get bored with my Holset, Ill try to machine a center housing with an hydraulic turbine right in the middle of the shaft...rig a high pressure hydraulic pump on the drive belt, and supply high pressure oil to the hydraulic turbine to assist the turbo at low rpm

Just like this

But the real deal, is this patent...this would be a really nice plug-n-play system to pump the turbo to another level

Are you done taking weight of your MS6...putting some wings on the car never came to mind
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File Type: pdf US20060254274A1.pdf (250.9 KB, 69 views)
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"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 09-08-2014, 08:44 PM   #100
 
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Why not use the 6mm bolt that holds the crank. The hole runs through the balancer and into the timing cover. Are you just trying to hold the crank or what?
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 Old 09-08-2014, 08:49 PM   #101
 
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Originally Posted by torquemaniac View Post
Are you done taking weight of your MS6...putting some wings on the car never came to mind
Not yet, but the triple turbo setup pushes 105 psi of boost, the car would definitely fly.
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 Old 09-08-2014, 08:57 PM   #102
 
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Originally Posted by KotzurRacing View Post
Why not use the 6mm bolt that holds the crank. The hole runs through the balancer and into the timing cover. Are you just trying to hold the crank or what?
The 6mm bolt is more for positionning of the pulley...the pulley holder tool is there is to hold the pulley in place when you torque the crank bolt like a MOFO (thats a TTY bolt)

Even the Mazda shop manual state the use of a pulley holder tool...I dont think the 6mm bolt will hold up to the torquing

Reference :
Mazda crank pulley tool vs Ford crank pulley tool
Crank Pulley Tool
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 Old 09-08-2014, 09:04 PM   #103
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Not yet, but the triple turbo setup pushes 105 psi of boost, the car would definitely fly.
Maybe we could put one turbo on each wheel...replace the turbos turbine by the car wheels, and use the energy of deceleration to compress air in a big-ass tank (you have lots of space for a tank in your trunk...if you still have one )

Pressurize the tank to 300psi and use this on demand (like a NOS switch on the steering)

LOL...
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 Old 09-08-2014, 09:32 PM   #104
 
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Originally Posted by torquemaniac View Post
The 6mm bolt is more for positionning of the pulley...the pulley holder tool is there is to hold the pulley in place when you torque the crank bolt like a MOFO (thats a TTY bolt)

Even the Mazda shop manual state the use of a pulley holder tool...I dont think the 6mm bolt will hold up to the torquing

Reference :
Mazda crank pulley tool vs Ford crank pulley tool
Crank Pulley Tool
You are torquing the bolt. My bad i thought you were trying to hold the crank still for the rod install.
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 Old 09-09-2014, 06:33 AM   #105
 
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Originally Posted by torquemaniac View Post
The 6mm bolt is more for positionning of the pulley...the pulley holder tool is there is to hold the pulley in place when you torque the crank bolt like a MOFO (thats a TTY bolt) Even the Mazda shop manual state the use of a pulley holder tool...I dont think the 6mm bolt will hold up to the torquing Reference : Mazda crank pulley tool vs Ford crank pulley tool Crank Pulley Tool
The special tool Mazda offers is even worse than that crank pulley tool.
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 Old 09-09-2014, 08:59 AM   #106
 
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Interesting thread. Nice to see another Holset powered DISI.
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 Old 09-09-2014, 04:21 PM   #107
 
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Today progress : oil and coolant drained...HPFP, valve cover, intake manifold, P/S pump and drive belt removed

Tested the fit of the cams timing tool...the freakin EGR solenoid is in the way...will have to cut the tool





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"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 09-10-2014, 06:40 PM   #108
 
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Today...fabricated a TDC tool (could not find a freakin 40mm all thread bolt, even at Fastenal, so I took a 35mm all thread bolt, taped a M6X1.0 hole at the end and put a M6 screw to get to the 38.5mm length), removed the oil pan and crankshaft bolt

What a surprise...the crankshaft bolt came out like a breese

I shimed the pulley holder tool and socket so they would not budge, put an hydraulic jack under the car frame to hold the pry bar wrench/pulley holder still, then gave one good pull and the crank bolt loosened...no super duper impact wrench needed







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"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 09-11-2014, 03:07 PM   #109
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Long breaker bar with a jack handle attached for a cheater will remove the crank bolt easy.

Tappin
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 Old 09-12-2014, 04:19 PM   #110
 
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Todays progress :








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Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler with AMG CWA-100 pump// Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 09-12-2014, 05:51 PM   #111
 
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At this rate you might as well build the motor lol
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 Old 09-13-2014, 05:42 AM   #112
 
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Originally Posted by BobtailedSnail View Post
At this rate you might as well build the motor lol
If it was not for the lack of time and money, I would make this build even more awesome, but in due time (couple years) the car will be one of a kind

My main focus now is the power/torque, but ive been thinking about the wheel and suspension lately due to @Ozynigma; thread...first thought was to lower the car and add some wide 20'' low profile tire, but seing the car jacked in the driveway makes me think of something else...like this...LOL

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"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 09-13-2014, 06:05 AM   #113
 
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That's all good for winter but where are you going to find summer tracks?
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 Old 09-13-2014, 06:42 AM   #114
 
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Originally Posted by Ozynigma View Post
That's all good for winter but where are you going to find summer tracks?
Summer conversion...LOL

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"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 09-13-2014, 03:32 PM   #115
 
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Rainy day, so I took some time to do the PTFE manifold gasket...1/4 inch of TIG should help with the manifold heatsoak



theschrum, Code Monkey and Bstrm like this.
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"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement

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 Old 09-14-2014, 12:56 PM   #116
 
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while being there, you may port the intake and head a little bit anyway, it is already not equaly balanced...
BTW, how dirty are your intake valve ?
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 Old 09-14-2014, 05:26 PM   #117
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
while being there, you may port the intake and head a little bit anyway, it is already not equaly balanced...
BTW, how dirty are your intake valve ?
No time for porting and no tools to do the job right now...Ill post pictures of the valves tomorrow...the valves as seen under the head (right by the spark plug) are super ''clean''on the exhaust side, and full of carbon (black) on the intake side !?!?

Took out the #1 piston/rod today...was really surprised to see the OEM rod finish when I disassembled the rod cap (looks like the rod was broken)

Managed to gap the 1st and 2nd ring to 0.014 and 0.019, and drop the rod/piston in the block...this is so much fun
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"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 09-14-2014, 05:47 PM   #118
 
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OEM rod with cap removed...funky looking finish!!!



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"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 09-14-2014, 08:07 PM   #119
 
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Just curious about the rod caps are they the using the broken rod then put back together technique used in the srt-4? If so this is a better means rather than machining making it a stronger rod.
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 Old 09-14-2014, 08:30 PM   #120
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Never seen anything like that. Looks horrible. Lol. Must be Francis, oui?

Tappin
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