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 Old 06-05-2016, 11:55 AM   #41
 
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I didn't notice a spring spec or part number for McMaster listed. Could someone please point me in the right direction?

Thanks!
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 Old 06-05-2016, 06:59 PM   #42
 
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Originally Posted by scratchbuilt View Post
I didn't notice a spring spec or part number for McMaster listed. Could someone please point me in the right direction?

Thanks!
Unfortunately McMaster-Carr doesnt have the right spring...this is why I went with Century Spring!

I will post the specs later...
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Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler with AMG CWA-100 pump// Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 09-10-2016, 04:03 AM   #43
 
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I need to read this. I want more than 320hp at the wheels
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 Old 11-27-2016, 03:22 PM   #44
 
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As stated in post#35, the TCM will adapts to the change done on the valve body, and the quality of the shift will suffer

The only way around this issue is to make access holes on the valve body cover to easily re-adjust the clutch control valves with an hex key

At the request of @Project_dog; here are some pictures of the valve body cover with the access holes












I did not keep the measurements for the access holes positionning, so you will have to take the measurements (the best is to have the holes directly aligned with the clutch control valves, but some holes end up in some round part of the cover, so you will have to move the holes a bit to have a flat surface for the rivnut)

A part of the block also need to be cut to have access to the B1 clutch control valve with an hex key (see pictures)

In the last picture is shown the harness bracket that must be removed to gain access to the C1 clutch control valve

Here is the part list for the cover mod (McMaster-Carr part number):

- Rivnut 95105A135
- Stainless screw 97763A232
- Viton o-ring 9464K13
- Ribut install tool 96349A280

Attached is a PDF of the clutch control valves as a reference
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Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler with AMG CWA-100 pump// Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement

Last edited by torquemaniac; 11-27-2016 at 05:44 PM.
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 Old 11-27-2016, 06:15 PM   #45
 
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Originally Posted by scratchbuilt View Post
I didn't notice a spring spec or part number for McMaster listed. Could someone please point me in the right direction?

Thanks!
This is the spring I use form Century Spring : Compression Spring S-1129

This spring gives a +30% increase in pressure (I would have gone with a +40% spring, but I could not find a spring with the right specs...unless I shimmed the pressure regulator sleeve...this could affect the stroke of the valve so I opted to not go this route)

Attached is some note on the spring specs (OEM and upgrade)
Attached Images
File Type: png pressure regulator spring upgrade.png (30.4 KB, 14 views)
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Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler with AMG CWA-100 pump// Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 04-04-2018, 10:19 AM   #46
 
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How hard is it to replace the valve body in cx7 trans?
Where is the pan located? Is it that vertically mounted bucket
Looking cover on the sida?
Is there a turorial anywhere with pics how to do it?
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 Old 04-04-2018, 05:52 PM   #47
 
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Originally Posted by raydaddy View Post
How hard is it to replace the valve body in cx7 trans?
Where is the pan located? Is it that vertically mounted bucket
Looking cover on the sida?
Is there a turorial anywhere with pics how to do it?
Its the black vertical pan on the front. It's just awkward getting all the bolts out. I don't know of any tutorials. The workshop manuals can be found through the CX7 FAQ thread for reference.
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 Old 04-04-2018, 06:34 PM   #48
 
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When i pull the valve body are there any springs or parts that may fall out i need to be aware of?
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 Old 04-05-2018, 01:17 AM   #49
 
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Originally Posted by raydaddy View Post
When i pull the valve body are there any springs or parts that may fall out i need to be aware of?
Yes I did have a piece fall out, I can't remember which one now, it was a couple of years ago. So be careful.
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 Old 04-05-2018, 12:56 PM   #50
 
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Man i wish there was a write up with pics somewhere.
I have the manual ins. And im not afraid of the job
Just wish i had a bit more reference material
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 Old 04-06-2018, 12:23 AM   #51
 
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Any idea on procedure to reset shift adapts?
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 Old 04-08-2018, 01:06 PM   #52
 
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Ok got all prep work done and cover off
Doing swap next week

Not too bad so far

Anybody know what the best way to clean off the old RTV is? Is theree a solvent for that?
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 Old 04-08-2018, 01:32 PM   #53
 
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razor blade/starter fluid

Don't go gouging the case like a newb
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 Old 04-08-2018, 05:33 PM   #54
 
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Originally Posted by raydaddy View Post
Any idea on procedure to reset shift adapts?
Disconnect battery will reset ECU. It will relearn after that.

Originally Posted by raydaddy View Post
Ok got all prep work done and cover off
Doing swap next week

Not too bad so far

Anybody know what the best way to clean off the old RTV is? Is theree a solvent for that?
I use brake/parts cleaning spray solvent with a wire brush
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 Old 04-19-2018, 05:09 PM   #55
 
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The only way to reset the shift adapt is to go to a transmission shop...disconnecting the battery wont do it (the transmission is controlled by the TCM and not the ECU)
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"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 08-11-2018, 11:47 PM   #56
 
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@torquemaniac
You're a pioneer in your ways!
I would love to chat with you personally about some of your findings. I am just in Onterrible.
I can't PM just yet, but you have been the sole reason for me joining MSF.

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Originally Posted by torquemaniac View Post
Well, well...do we have an Alpha Romeo intruder on the Mazdaspeed site

I did reuse all my gasket, eventhough you suggested I change the little one...and everything is holding fine

1-2 shift lag is completely gone...but the shift is a bit harsh on very light throttle, but I rarely am in light throttle

Counterclockwise adjustment of the B1 adjuster is all that is necessary to eliminate the 1-2 upshift lag

C2 and C3 are to increase firmness of the other shift

I would like to play with the C1 adjuster (I can turn the adjuster without removing the cover because I made access holes), but I cant because the damn harness bracket is right in front of the C1 access hole...didnt see that when I put the cover on

C1 could improve launching from a stop (the Aisin 6-speed goes in ''neutral'' when idling in gear to improve fuel economy)

You dont need a bigger turbo to do this...it will make the shift faster and firmer
Hi Eric!
Can I talk to you personally?
Interested in the issue of setting up the AWTF-81 hydroplate.
Thank.
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