Seen the light and modding CX7 for more power

[Ozynigma]

Hi All,

I have a 2007 CX7 with 123,000 kms (about 77,000 miles). So far it has been running without issue.

However I just read the exploding motors thread which has got me wondering whether I should just sell it and buy a CX5 turbo diesel or something. I just did the feel for slack in the timing chain and cold start test and I think I am up for a new timing chain and VVT actuator. This was not detected by the dealer at the recent 120,000km service a couple of months ago. Interestingly when I took it back to the same dealer last month to inquire about the trade in value they quickly noticed it as a possible fault that lowered the value of the car. I will be getting some quotes and getting this fixed asap.

Once I have the reliability issue sorted I am thinking of modding the car for better drivability. I am interested in hearing from owners who have had success with mild modding of the CX7 for better drivability, less lag, a bit more power and hopefully slightly lower fuel consumption.

I have found a local Mazda tuning shop that wants $1700AU to dynotune and flash the CPU. However they mostly seem to deal with rotaries and they didn't inspire much confidence or give me the impression that they had ever tuned a CX7 before. So I am thinking of getting the tune after a few other mods are installed.

1) Has anyone else in Brisbane Australia have a recommendation for a tuner who know their stuff with Mazda DISI motors?

Having read lots of threads on this forum I am considering only modding the TMIC, TIP probably with a CAI and the blowoff valve (and engine mounts). I don't think I can currently justify the cost of exhaust or turbo mods which would probably lead to fuel pump mods etc etc etc.

2) Can anyone who had done these intake and tuning mods describe the benefits in performance? Was it worth the $3,000AU or so cost for you?

I have read that the turbo boost is reduced in first and second gear. I know this for sure for the 3MPS FWD.

3) Is the boost reduced in the first two gears for the CX7 AWD automatic transmission too? If so is this what gives an impression of very bad lag off the line? Can this be fixed with the tune? Should there still be some limit to the boost?

I am also considering options with the turbo for the future (lets just say mine failed in service). I have read that Mazda used a smaller version of the same K04 turbocharger on the CX7 to reduce lag, increase torque (and reduce maximum power by 10kW to 175kW).

4) Does the K04 from the MPS bolt straight onto the CX7? Is it externally the same size with the CX7 just running smaller internals? Has anybody done this successfully to get their 10kW back?

Alternatively I can get an exchange upgraded turbo for about $1450AU. BNR Stage 1 MPS Turbo | MPS Garage

5) Has anybody successfully bolted one of these onto a CX7? What were the performance gains?

I am assuming that I would need to upgrade the fuel pump if I upgrade the turbo in the future.

6) If I stop at the intake mods and tuning will I need the fuel pump upgrade? If not need is it still recommended for reliability?

I saw that another potential performance upgrade is to remove the rotating mass of the balance shaft from the DISI motor.

7) Has anybody done this? Does it make a noticeable positive difference to engine performance? Does it make a noticeable negative difference to vibrations from the motor? Is it something you would do on a daily driver or only on a track car?

I hope no one minds the lots of questions. Some of them I could not find answers too and others I am after some opinions.

[Ozynigma]

OK I am replying to my own thread. I found part of the answer to (4). I think I read it the other day but forgot with all the information I was getting.

Originally Posted by torquemaniac Absolutely no change required...the exterior shape of the turbo is the same Only difference is smaller compressor wheel size and exhaust A/R (for the CX-7)...this makes for faster spoolup, but no top end power Id suggest you get Versatuner to tune with the MS3 turbo (spark and VVT timing), otherwise you will find throttle response is slow (compared to the CX-7 turbo)

Still interested to hear from anyone who has actually done it, tuned it and got better performance from the car than leaving it stock and spooling up quicker???

[torquemaniac]

IMO, best mods to start is Versatuner (549$ vs 1700$)

With Versatuner you will learn alot about the engine, and you are in charge...plus the tune can be modified an unlimited amount of times (the Dynotune is a one time deal, otherwise know has a permanent tune)

Sassimac made a great tune for a stock setup on the 1st gen CX-7(improved hp, torque, throttle response, fuel economy)...the tune can be found on the Versatune forum

Once you start modding, an intake wont be enough...trust me

The MS3/MS6 turbo is a nice, cheap (got mine on MSF for 80$) and direct upgrade for the CX-7...but require some tuning

With some tuning and bolts-on, the CX-7 can be real fun to drive...if you know how to use the Tiptronic (I cant resist the urge to launch like a madman everytime the opportunity is there )

The HPFP upgrade is a must if you increase boost

I would not waste time with the BSD, unless you plan on opening up the motor to swap rods and pistons (never heard of significant improvement with BSD...I plan on keeping mine when I will do my rods swap...to reduce vibration)

[Ozynigma]

Originally Posted by torquemaniac IMO, best mods to start is Versatuner (549$ vs 1700$) With Versatuner you will learn alot about the engine, and you are in charge...plus the tune can be modified an unlimited amount of times (the Dynotune is a one time deal, otherwise know has a permanent tune) Sassimac made a great tune for a stock setup on the 1st gen CX-7(improved hp, torque, throttle response, fuel economy)...the tune can be found on the Versatune forum Once you start modding, an intake wont be enough...trust me The MS3/MS6 turbo is a nice, cheap (got mine on MSF for 80$) and direct upgrade for the CX-7...but require some tuning With some tuning and bolts-on, the CX-7 can be real fun to drive...if you know how to use the Tiptronic (I cant resist the urge to launch like a madman everytime the opportunity is there ) The HPFP upgrade is a must if you increase boost I would not waste time with the BSD, unless you plan on opening up the motor to swap rods and pistons (never heard of significant improvement with BSD...I plan on keeping mine when I will do my rods swap...to reduce vibration)

Thanks for the advice. I will do some more research on the Versatune. I am an engineer (not mechanical or electrical) but some jobs I prefer to leave for the professionals if it saves me stuffing around.

I think the market for used MS3/6 turbos is probably smaller in Australia but I will start to look around.

Currently the off the line acceleration and high fuel consumption are the worst aspects of the vehicle, also the power tapers off above the midrange. It is adequate but not great for day to day driving, most highway overtaking and light towing.

I am watching your big turbo build thread with interest.

[cletusb]

I'm feeling nice so will spoon feed a bit, suggest you donate asap to this forum to get the full benefits

As above dyno tune is not worth it, better getting Versatuner or cobb ap and doing self tune or e-tune if you don't want to DIY

There are some MPS turbos around on OZMPS and eBay AU that I have seen... Turbo itself will be cheap so if you can swap yourself then you will be get ok bang for buck but if getting a shop to do the swap I would reconsider unless you are going for the BNR 3, don't bother with the stage 1

Turbo spool a better with intake, better cooling with the TMIC. Improvements were what you would expect for the car type. Tune was the biggest single change

I think it is worth the $$$, could get change from $3k
Versatuner is like $550 with the cable, or get a Cobb AP v3 for another $100 - $150
V2 cheaper used
Tune $250
Used TMIC - $400 for corksport on OZMPS or ebay has an ETS for $550
Fuel pump with Autotech internals also on ebay for $550 or cheaper to diy with any internals
Intake take your pick as far as I know they all work, @CorkSport; lists theirs for CX7 its $220 atm + shipping

Well under $2500 with shipping and exchange rates and you have the fuel pump if you want to do exhaust later

Extra thoughts

Instead of SRI you could run a K&N panel filter with stock air box, get the TIP tho
Would depend if you care about keeping air box etc.. and it may not work with your...

DIY FMIC which could be done for cheap, be "better" then the TMIC too

[Ozynigma]

Originally Posted by cletusb I'm feeling nice so will spoon feed a bit, suggest you donate asap to this forum to get the full benefits

Done

[Spectrix]

Originally Posted by Ozynigma I am interested in hearing from owners who have had success with mild modding of the CX7 for better drivability, less lag, a bit more power and hopefully slightly lower fuel consumption. 3) Is the boost reduced in the first two gears for the CX7 AWD automatic transmission too? If so is this what gives an impression of very bad lag off the line? Can this be fixed with the tune? Should there still be some limit to the boost?

Hi, before you go any further consider that most of the threads on this forum are concerned with power / fasts / handling. That's not to say you won't find answers, more that many are heading in a different direction than you are. There is a massive amount of information here, so it pays to be selective.

Also consider that >99% of the cars discussed here have a manual transmission.

Automatic transmissions often feel laggy off the line (because they are).
The 2.3 MZR Disi / K04 combination is not considered laggy at all; changing to a larger turbo is very unlikely to net you less lag or more 'power off the line'.

Tuning / larger intake in particular are the areas to focus on for better throttle response.

In terms of reliability, many of the 'exploding motors' happen due to limitations of both the HPFP (high pressure fuel pump) and the rods. Neither of these are likely to be issues to an otherwise standard engine if it's not pushed. That said, a HPFP upgrade and careful tuning are both very important if you go down the mod path.

The timing chain & VVT are more likely to present as noise before any other problems, they are wear items that need replacing at certain intervals.

It may also be worth checking your intake valves, if they've not ever been cleaned they are probably coated with tar, this is a side affect of the EGR and the PCV emissions systems and it certainly has a bearing on throttle response.

[torquemaniac]

Only Versatuner works for the CX-7 (Cobb does not support the CX-7)...

Off the line acceleration ca be greatly improved with tuning (it took me a while to figure out how to eliminate the hesitation at 2000rpm)

The power band can also be improved with tuning and the MS3/MS6 turbo

Versatuner has an OTS tune for improved fuel economy, but dont expect much there (I personnaly dont care much about fuel economy...I prefer to have fun driving like a madman )

A CAI is the best option IMO for an intake mod on the CX-7...SRI will give you high intake temp if its hot outside

Also, best way to do a search on MSF, is via Google...just tap the following in the Google search page : site:www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum

Then add what you want to search at the end...example for ''turbo rebuild'' search :

site:mazdaspeeforums.org turbo rebuild

[torquemaniac]

Spectrix makes a good points about the PCV and EGR...I deleted the EGR early to reduce crap buildup in the manifold and intake valve

Simplest way to delete the EGR is to just unplug the solenoid (no real need to cap the EGR port)

[Ozynigma]

Thanks for all the ideas. I thought the dynotune price was too high.

I have had no major reliability problem with mine but the general industry feeling seems to be negative towards used CX7's. From new they were noted as laggy (feeling) off the line and thirsty for 95RON (in Oz at least), I bought mine new regardless. I have been tossing up trading up to a new SUV, modding it to get a smile on my face or just keeping it around stock as a utility vehicle and for my youngest son to learn to drive in. The trade in prices I am being offered are around $10k AU which is about 25% of new price. I have also noticed that private sellers online are having trouble selling them and are reducing their prices. Mazda stopping production of a "6" based SUV and replacing with only a "3" based SUV is probably not helping the resale value.

It seems the first thing I have to do is address wear and tear and reliability issues before modding to extract more power. I am also thinking the upgraded fuel pump is a good insurance policy. I found the one on ebay thanks cletusb.

I like the idea of keeping the air box. I think for stage one of this project I want to keep everything looking stock but upping the performance noticeably. I don't want the vehicle to be too noticeable or uninsurable. So original air box, upgraded TMIC and turbo that looks stock externally and stock exhaust. I have considered a FMIC but that would be for the future.

So the maintenance/upgrade list is now looking like this.

1) timing chain and tensioner and VVT actuator
2) catch can and EGR disconnect
3) engine cleaning additive (hope this is enough to clean the intake and valves)
4) fuel pump upgrade
5) Versatune - start with sassimac tune and learn from there (like how to get rid of that hesitation at 2000rpm)
6) upgraded TMIC, BOV, TIP and panel filter
7) consider 3/6 MPS K04 standard or high flow to replace CX7 K04 (and retune)

[torquemaniac]

Thats a nice plan...

If you want to make efficiency improvement to the intake, take a look at what those guys have to say...I based my airbox and ramair system on their teaching :

AutoSpeed - Eliminating Negative Boost - Part 5

This is part 5 of the negative boost series (best thing is to start at part 1...)

Like I said before, Versatuner is the best investement you can do for your CX-7

[Ozynigma]

OK here is a picture (not very good) of my CX7 taken a few years ago. Its got the camping trailer with mountain bikes in tow and the catamaran in the background is its other towing job.

IMG_0640 by ozynigma, on Flickr

So no progress on my upgrades yet, I have been considering and revising "the plan" and alternatives like tuning the wife's Audi A4 or trading for a Tiguan with an APR tune....

So the new plan is:

1) Timing chain is fine, I had the dealer check it out and no excessive noises. Dealer service rep was very helpful and knowledgable on the weaknesses of the CX7, the main one being useless owners who don't get them serviced or change the oil.

2) Buy Versatune and run a tune on the stock motor as my stage 1.

3) Then look at fuel pump, TMIC and TIP, EGR, catch can and blow off valve as my stage 2. So still all stock looking and only mild performance improvement.

4) Consider a higher flow bolt on turbo like the BNR, high flow exhaust, FMIC and CAI for my stage 3. Hopefully by then I will have learned a bit about tuning.

[Ozynigma]

Well I installed my first mod this week, an ETS intercooler

Here is the stock engine bay. Note the nice cold air intakes for the intercooler on the left and air box on the right just under the bonnet behind the grill.

Untitled by ozynigma, on Flickr

Here is the stock intercooler, it doesn't need a shroud as the engine cover directs the air down through it.

Untitled by ozynigma, on Flickr

Here is the test fit for the ETS, the engine cover still works fine on the deeper intercooler. The extra tabs are to mount a shroud for an MPS3 but this is not required for the CX7.

Untitled by ozynigma, on Flickr

Here is the final installation with blue Sure boost tubes, these were thrown in with the second hand TMIC by the seller. Looks just like a stocker

Untitled by ozynigma, on Flickr

The ETS TMIC has made an noticeable power improvement across the rev range. The motor is more willing to rev and from other dyno graphs it should be giving about an extra 20hp on a 240hp motor. So a very worthwhile and effective upgrade.

[torquemaniac]

Bigger TMIC will give better flow, but once its heatsoaked from the engine bay heat, the gain in HP will be negligible, especialy in the hot season

I suggest removing the weather strip near the windshield to let the heat escape when not moving...free mod to lower BAT

[lildisco]

The ETS does deal with heat soak better than the stock tmic. The stock tmic keeps hot air way longer than any aftermarket tmic. It was one of my first mods! Be careful, it's addicting!

[cletusb]

Not sure what the market is for cx7 front mounts but you could diy... Or invest in a meth kit / run ethanol blend

[Ozynigma]

Originally Posted by torquemaniac Bigger TMIC will give better flow, but once its heatsoaked from the engine bay heat, the gain in HP will be negligible, especialy in the hot season I suggest removing the weather strip near the windshield to let the heat escape when not moving...free mod to lower BAT

Hi, I will keep that in mind but I am trying to keep mods from stock as few as possible. Everything is a compromise (unless you just go full on for max power).

Here is the weather information from the nearest weather station to me. Average daily temps in winter 20C and summer 30C. We don't have many real cold days where you get that free atmospheric boost.

Archerfield Ap climate, averages and extreme weather records

[Ozynigma]

Originally Posted by lildisco The ETS does deal with heat soak better than the stock tmic. The stock tmic keeps hot air way longer than any aftermarket tmic. It was one of my first mods! Be careful, it's addicting!

Yes the power addiction is starting to bite. Trying to keep my spend on this under the radar at home

Originally Posted by cletusb Not sure what the market is for cx7 front mounts but you could diy... Or invest in a meth kit / run ethanol blend

I have been learning heaps on the forums. The ETS TMIC should handle anything I throw at it. If I went FMIC I reckon a 6MPS install could probably be modded to fit. I have been reading up on methanol and ethanol as well.

Currently exchanging emails with Alex at Stratified about a Versatune. A second E85 map is a possibility but it is a lot of hassle blending fuel in the tank to achieve an E30 outcome especially when Caltex alter the ethanol content between 70% and 85% in their E85 blend.

I reckon I can probably hit my performance targets with a high flow turbo and no ethanol or methanol.

I am currently looking at this turbo option. They also do a modified high flow CX7 K04 582 turbo.

Mazda 3 6 CX 7 CX7 2 3L MZR Disi EU K0422 882 Turbo Turbocharger L3M713700C | eBay

I will probably be a guinea pig for this as I haven't found any mention of FTG on the Mazda forums. However this is only a couple of hundred more than a used K04 882 in Australia.

[Raider]

I would avoid ebay, at ALL costs. There are so many more reputable places to shop and a lot more modding to be done prior. Do not forget to upgrade the hpfp if you do go much further.

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by Ozynigma Yes the power addiction is starting to bite. Trying to keep my spend on this under the radar at home I have been learning heaps on the forums. The ETS TMIC should handle anything I throw at it. If I went FMIC I reckon a 6MPS install could probably be modded to fit. I have been reading up on methanol and ethanol as well. Currently exchanging emails with Alex at Stratified about a Versatune. A second E85 map is a possibility but it is a lot of hassle blending fuel in the tank to achieve an E30 outcome especially when Caltex alter the ethanol content between 70% and 85% in their E85 blend. I reckon I can probably hit my performance targets with a high flow turbo and no ethanol or methanol. I am currently looking at this turbo option. They also do a modified high flow CX7 K04 582 turbo. Mazda 3 6 CX 7 CX7 2 3L MZR Disi EU K0422 882 Turbo Turbocharger L3M713700C | eBay I will probably be a guinea pig for this as I haven't found any mention of FTG on the Mazda forums. However this is only a couple of hundred more than a used K04 882 in Australia.

I would be very cautious about buying a turbo, especially a modded one, on Ebay. If it has a mechanical failure, it could throw metal shrapnel into your motor. This is, obviously, something you'll want to avoid. Instead, you'd be better off getting a lightly-used MS3/6 K04 (881/882) and getting a decent tune for it.

As for the weather-stripping removal recommended in one of the posts above, you should be aware that this will only evacuate heated air from the engine bay when you're at rest. Once you're moving, a high pressure zone will form at the base of the windshield and it will actually push air into the engine bay, altering the natural flow of air around the engine. It's not clear whether or not you'd see an increase in BATs, but it's certainly possible.

[Raider]

CP-E makes a TON for CX-7.
CX-7 | Search Results | cp-e?

I know wonder if MS6 manifold would work since same up front. The MS6 FMIC fits.

[torquemaniac]

Originally Posted by Vansquish I would be very cautious about buying a turbo, especially a modded one, on Ebay. If it has a mechanical failure, it could throw metal shrapnel into your motor. This is, obviously, something you'll want to avoid. Instead, you'd be better off getting a lightly-used MS3/6 K04 (881/882) and getting a decent tune for it. As for the weather-stripping removal recommended in one of the posts above, you should be aware that this will only evacuate heated air from the engine bay when you're at rest. Once you're moving, a high pressure zone will form at the base of the windshield and it will actually push air into the engine bay, altering the natural flow of air around the engine. It's not clear whether or not you'd see an increase in BATs, but it's certainly possible.

+1 for the ebay turbo

I bought a Magnehelic gauge last summer to test the change in pressure under the hood from the the weather strip mod...never got to test it...maybe this summer

[Ozynigma]

Thanks for all the comments guys. I really appreciate the honest advice.

Its a big price jump from a used K04 881, say $300AU to say a BNR starting at $1030US shipped. The FTG seemed to sit in the middle if it is reputable and reliable.

I haven't made a purchase decision and I am not defending. I have been researching. Here is a thread on FTG and I have checked out their Facebook page and their website should be up very soon. It does sound like the owner is legit, however information on the source of his K04's and what mods have been done to them is pretty scarce. I agree the BNR is a much safer bet despite (or perhaps because of) the recent S3 V2 issues.

ordering new intercoolers for my 01 Allroad from FTG Motorsport

I haven't forgotten the HPFP upgrade. Initially I can live within and have the car tuned within its constraints. Alex has been giving me good advice on the limits of the standard fuel pump.

I have an SRI on the way in the post (from ebay lol), it was used by a hill climb racer in a 3 MPS so I assume it is pretty good and it was only $100.

So the next step is Versatune with the TMIC, BOV and SRI in place and see where we end up. This will better inform a turbo upgrade decision in the future.

[Ozynigma]

Just got some 20" wheels from a CX9 from a local ebay seller (for a good price). I might have to go full on ricer with this car hehehe, actually 22" aftermarket would be ricer, not +2" OEM. The stealthy build continues.

[Ozynigma]

Originally Posted by Raider CP-E makes a TON for CX-7. CX-7 | Search Results | cp-e? I know wonder if MS6 manifold would work since same up front. The MS6 FMIC fits.

Wow that is an impressive bit of engineering. No reason it wouldn't fit on a CX7.

Mazda MZR DISI 2.3 =LTRmani? Turbo Manifold | cp-e?

[FatSauze]

lets see the cx-9 rims on it.

[Ozynigma]

Originally Posted by FatSauze lets see the cx-9 rims on it.

It might be a while before that happens.

At least one of they tyres on the wheels is unusable (bulging in the tread) and another is probably illegal. Also they are 245/50/20 which may not be the best size for the CX7, I am thinking more like 255/50/20 but I have to do the maths to match rolling diameter as close as possible.

So until I can buy four new tyres the rims will be in storage. I have very good tyres (Pirelli Scorpion Zero 235/60/18) with lots of life left on the car already, so I will have to see whether I can sell them on the 18's for a decent price to fund the new tyres.

[Ozynigma]

Here is what I posted on OzMPS a short while ago.

I have bought some CX9 wheels 20x7.5 to replace the 18x7.5's. Offset is 45 for the 20's vs 50 for the 18's so there should be no issues there.

The CX9 tyres are pretty stuffed and are 245/50/20's. This is almost certainly the size I will fit which makes the new tyres 10mm wider and 13mm taller than the 235/60/18's.

I did consider wider and lower profile but any wider is marginal for a 7.5" rim.

Here are some pics.

With the 18's.

Untitled by ozynigma, on Flickr

Untitled by ozynigma, on Flickr

And with the 20" parked in front.

Untitled by ozynigma, on Flickr

Now imagine that with a 30mm drop as well

The wheels are in pretty good shape with only a few marks and scratches. I am thinking of getting them powder coated.

I am thinking of a medium to dark grey gloss finish. Any other ideas to complement the "Icy Blue" Mazda colour?

Here is one range of colours available.

http://www.powdercoatingservices.com...15_colours.pdf

Has anyone done a pearl finish powder coat on wheels?

[torquemaniac]

Really nice grab the CX-9 wheels...I would go with a kind of gunmetal look!

Here is a thread by Raider that will give you an idea of the impact of the wheel size on the odometer :

CX-7 Tire Size Chart

[Ozynigma]

Originally Posted by torquemaniac Really nice grab the CX-9 wheels...I would go with a kind of gunmetal look! Here is a thread by Raider that will give you an idea of the impact of the wheel size on the odometer : CX-7 Tire Size Chart

Haha, I have a spreadsheet just like Raider's at home, built it up from scratch.

This was also a good resource and it has wheel and tyre sizes for a lot of vehicles.

Mazda CX-7 2007 - Wheel & Tire Sizes, PCD, Offset and Rims specs - Wheel-size.com

[Ozynigma]

Just installed an SRI of unknown provenance (except it was used on an MPS3 hill climb race car).

Wow what a difference to the sound of the induction. Now I can hear the turbo and BOV working. I haven't done a full throttle run yet to see if it makes a noticeable performance difference like the ETS TMIC did.

This may not be the final induction setup because I would like to run a silicone TIP to a custom cold air box. Unfortunately Corksport don't their cold air boxes for CX7 anymore. If anyone knows where I could get one that would be great.

The install was fairly straight forward. I had to rotate the MAF housing 90 degrees to the side to get the PCV hose to connect vertically from the top. Also my COBB XLE BOV went in yesterday.

[Ozynigma]

Just ordered the JBR 3.5" wide path intake from Edge at 10% off.

Progress has been slow due to limited cash-flow. Hoping to have tax refund in a couple of weeks which should help.

I have also acquired my turbo for the first stage of this build. Its an MS3 stock turbo from an Aussie forum member.

Just the HPFP and Versatune to go for stage 1. I am also looking at some simple and cheap mods to the exhaust after the down pipe and first cat.

[torquemaniac]

When will put the MS3 turbo on the car...i want to see if the slower spoolup is inherent to the MS3 turbo, or if I had a bad turbo (eventhough there is no shaft play and its spin really nice)

You need to start racing to make some mod money

[Ozynigma]

Originally Posted by torquemaniac When will put the MS3 turbo on the car...i want to see if the slower spoolup is inherent to the MS3 turbo, or if I had a bad turbo (eventhough there is no shaft play and its spin really nice) You need to start racing to make some mod money

I only race for slips hehehe

I have an Android tablet on the way to install Torque app on. I will try and log boost versus revs for the 582 and 882 turbos.

[Ozynigma]

The 20" wheels are fitted.

Here are some before photos.

Untitled by ozynigma, on Flickr

Untitled by ozynigma, on Flickr

Untitled by ozynigma, on Flickr

So while it will never be a sports car I am going for the more Sports and less Utility type SUV.

So roof racks are off, tow bar extension is removed, dodgy stickers are removed from rear window and 20" wheels are on.

Untitled by ozynigma, on Flickr

Untitled by ozynigma, on Flickr

[Ozynigma]

In other news I have just ordered my Stratified Tune from @Lex

Corksport HPFP internals arrived this morning and will be fitted asap.

JBR 3.5" wide path intake has been ordered but hasn't shipped yet.

I have ordered the Pedder's Sports Ryder suspension with 40mm lowered springs and matching dampers.

Tomorrow I am going to pick up some used CX9 brake callipers and brackets and I will need to order some new CX9 rotors. This will up the rotor size from 296mm to 320mm at the front and 302mm to 324mm at the rear. Front rotors are 28mm thick vented and rears are 18mm thick vented.

I am thinking of DBA rotors and slotted for at least the front. Any strong opinions out there on slotted versus plain rotors?

Also I am thinking of removing the brake backing plates when I fit the larger rotors. Any pros and cons for running with no backing plates?

[Raider]

Keep the backing plates. Helps keep rocks and crap from getting in between the pad and rotor. Slotted brakes wear faster, bit do help stop. More dust too.

[FatSauze]

Do you have a full side view with the new shoes?

[torquemaniac]

Originally Posted by Ozynigma In other news I have just ordered my Stratified Tune from @Lex Corksport HPFP internals arrived this morning and will be fitted asap. JBR 3.5" wide path intake has been ordered but hasn't shipped yet. I have ordered the Pedder's Sports Ryder suspension with 40mm lowered springs and matching dampers. Tomorrow I am going to pick up some used CX9 brake callipers and brackets and I will need to order some new CX9 rotors. This will up the rotor size from 296mm to 320mm at the front and 302mm to 324mm at the rear. Front rotors are 28mm thick vented and rears are 18mm thick vented. I am thinking of DBA rotors and slotted for at least the front. Any strong opinions out there on slotted versus plain rotors? Also I am thinking of removing the brake backing plates when I fit the larger rotors. Any pros and cons for running with no backing plates?

Will you install the MS3 turbo before the tune?

[Ozynigma]

Originally Posted by FatSauze Do you have a full side view with the new shoes?

I do now. The first shots were taken with bad afternoon sun and were the best I could do at the time. I took another shot this morning. I will take more when the lowered suspension and bigger brake rotors go on.

Untitled by ozynigma, on Flickr