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11-06-2010, 05:53 PM | #1 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Front Suspension/Control Arms Let me try to better explain.. (I have a video too). Left side, you push down or lift up on the hub, it moves up and down relatively easy and bounces back into place. Right side... you can't press it down any further than it sits by itself, and its very hard to lift up, so much so that the car lifts off the jack stands a little when I finally apply enough pressure for it to move up (which is what you're hearing in the video). It's linked to the lower control arm as far as I can tell, because during the whole ball joint replacement, at one point I had the upper arms disconnected and it still had this difference. Basically: which side is fucked up, what is causing it, what can I do about it? In the video I look at left side first, then right side. Thanks! |
11-06-2010, 06:05 PM | #2 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score the dreaded 'floppy wheel'
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11-06-2010, 06:11 PM | #3 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score obvious thing here is the bushings on the control arms, mainly the lower...but idk they all look the same to me bushings all look the same/fine as far as I can tell...The tight side is almost feels like there is something constantly applying downward force on the lower arm (best way I can describe it). don't know if that's normal...is indicative of anything, etc, again I am suspension noob. Last edited by aaronc7; 11-06-2010 at 06:11 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
11-06-2010, 06:19 PM | #4 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score im so tired of dealing with suspension BS.. I just wanna throw these coilovers on. I just wanna figure out if this is actual issue... don't wanna be tearing it down later down the road etc obviously |
11-06-2010, 06:34 PM | #5 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score most possible thing dude... the bushing on the a arms... its the only thing that is actually moving vs a sedentary object... its the only place where resistance would be left... once u take the coils out its just a dead arm and it will move as easily as the bushings will allow.... get a floor jack with a wooden block and raise and lower both arms and inspect the bushings at all range of travel...... u cant assume that the loose one is bad...or good... anymore than u can assume the tight one is good or bad.... also would have been nice to check each lower and upper a arm before you assembled the hub back on.... this way u can compare 4 different reference points rather than just 2 if still possible... i would check the travel vs resistance of all 4 a arms separately without the upper and lower being tied in via the hub
__________________ 2007 Ms3 3071r fully bolted , retired and sold after 110k miles of abuse 2014 Black Track Pack premium , NA 4lyfe ...AED dyno tuned on E85 466.6whp / 406.8 TQ SAE Last edited by rodrigo; 11-06-2010 at 06:34 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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11-06-2010, 06:35 PM | #6 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score definitely lower control arm is the difference. but seriously im not fucking taking those balljoints off again lol. I still spent a few hours on it today with the BFH. Funny thing though... I was only able to get the tie rods off..was stuck on lower ball joints... that "bodies" by drowning pool song came on and I got them both off within the duration of the song lol. |
11-06-2010, 07:13 PM | #7 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It seems as though the lower ball joint on the right side is binding for some reason. Suspension should move relatively freely when there is no spring and damper installed with the exception of the bushing as lenny stated. Is the right side ball joint cocked in an odd way compared to the left side? As much as you don't want to revisit it take apart the right side until you get to the point that everything moves freely. |
11-06-2010, 08:34 PM | #8 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Well, i sprayed the various bushing areas with a little WD40 and then jacked up both sides, to let each side go thru its full range of motion. I dont know what was causing the right side to bind, but after I did that...its fine now..weird but im happy |
11-07-2010, 06:30 AM | #9 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score lets see some sweet pics of that car now sitting low.... |
11-07-2010, 06:41 AM | #10 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Are the bushing rubber or polyurethane? If they are polyurethane you are going to want to coat them in some lithium grease otherwise they will squeak every time you go over a bump. |
11-07-2010, 08:29 AM | #11 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score rubber...factory stuff. down the road it may be smart to switch to poly or something, but not something I want to fuck with now. paul: exhaust should get here next week..car in current state has no exhaust period, lol. Once exhaust/turbo is on, then I'll get it off the jack stands and start playing with the height and pre load of the coilovers |
11-07-2010, 09:47 AM | #12 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yea if you get serious about tracking the thing you will want to replace all the bushing to improve the response of the car. Some of the bushing may even be ideal to replace with hieme joints. |
11-07-2010, 10:27 AM | #13 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score shitz dope aaron ............... i also like how u retreated into a cocoon and work on cars by yourself now.... hahahahahah keep posting pics nukka
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