Dildo Blitz

[Tomas]

non
at least I got that.

[Tokay444]

Pee balloon?

[Tomas]

425 lbs springs in the front and 350 lbs in the rear will be my set up.

[Tomas]

It's taken way longer than anticipated to plumb the FMIC piping and come up with a power steering overheating solution. Made good progress this week however.
No windshield fluid reservoir removal for me. Chose to go through the opening between the rad support structure and chassis. It's tight down there. Had to remove some of the plastic on the rad mount structure and on grind on the crash bar. Fitting all of this just took a lot of hours but I think it will come out ok.





Haven't fired up the car yet. There is a chance the remote reservoir for the power steering pump is too low for enough gravity feed to the pump. We'll see.

For the pump, I bough a new elbow pipe for an MS3 pump, and tapped the pump housing for the bolt that holds the elbow in place. Cheaper than buying a new MS3 pump.







I eliminated all the hard lines. Even the wimpey tube and fin cooler. The reservoir hols about 30 ounces of fluid so I am thinking there will be enough for it not to boil. I'll hold the temp gun to it once the car is running and see how hot the reservoir gets.





Routing the brake ducts. Another pain in the ass. Was so much easier on the MS3.



Hopefully this week end It'll be ready.

[cnyms6]

Awesome build info in this thread. Thanks for sharing. I'm very interested in what you are doing with the PS system. Not quite sure I understand what you are doing. Is your new PS setup trying to cool the recirc flow? I want to figure out how to cool the recirc since I think that's where the PS pump flow is going most of the time. Is that correct? A larger cooler that I installed didn't really do anything to the PS reservoir temp.

[Tomas]

The stock PS return line exits the steering rack, goes to the cooler, and then to the bottom of the reservoir. The pump pressurizes the fluid which exits through the hard line with the banjo bolt on top of the pump and from there to the p side of the steering rack.

The idea is to use so much fluid in a large tank that you can do without the lil OEM cooler. I am running into some problems with this set up however. Fluid keeps spilling out through the gasket on the lid. There is quite a lot of pressure on the return line. If you open the reservoir wile the engine is running the fluid will splatter out of the reservoir. I emptied the reservoir to about 1/2 and it still spills over so it's not a matter of too much fluid in the tank. I am going to have to change the reservoir to something better. I have an OEM reservoir with a vent valve I can use but it won't have the capacity of the aluminum one in the picture above. Might have to use a cooler after all. More to come on that.
Here are some additional pics.

So from the D side steering rack fluid goes into the reservoir, and from the there to the pump.





Oh and here is my port injection set up. Catch can with check valve and filter for pressure release, and how the IC routing on the pressure side before IC looks like.









And these are the shrouds I made for the colling ducts with my super awesome Evolution miter saw. They transition from 3" to 2 1/2".

[cnyms6]

Impressive brake cooling fittings.

I've been playing with PS coolers including this one:
Uber PS Cooler

I'm still not happy with PS fluid temps. I get the same spraying you describe. I'm beginning to wonder if the heat is coming more from recirc in the pump than the flow through the rack. But knowing nothing about the pressure/flow control in the pump limits any good engineering guesses. Hope to get more into that while engine is out for rebuild over the winter.

Enjoying seeing all your good advances on this project. Looking forward to track testing results and impressions of the new turbo.

[Tomas]

Originally Posted by cnyms6 Impressive brake cooling fittings. I've been playing with PS coolers including this one: Uber PS Cooler I'm still not happy with PS fluid temps. I get the same spraying you describe. I'm beginning to wonder if the heat is coming more from recirc in the pump than the flow through the rack. But knowing nothing about the pressure/flow control in the pump limits any good engineering guesses. Hope to get more into that while engine is out for rebuild over the winter. Enjoying seeing all your good advances on this project. Looking forward to track testing results and impressions of the new turbo.

Ok. I posted on your thread.
Have you ever held a temp gun to the cooler after flamboyant driving?
I am leaning towards a problem in the reservoir set up and not necessarily overheating of the fluid.
Experiments will need to be performed!

[Tomas]

Added a PS cooler. Tightened up the cap for the reservoir. Not leaking anymore. At least not yet. Also cleaned up the wiring for the injectors. And started the AC1 tuning. It's incredible how much fuel head room you get by bumping the DI system to 12.2 AFR in OL. Got from 80% at 11.8 AFR with IDC at 18 psi to 23 psi at IDC 65%

[Code Monkey]

You are supposed to remove weight from the pig, not to add.

[Tomas]

The combined weight of the additions I've made doesen't even come close to one of my shits.

[Code Monkey]

I demand photographic evidence....

[Easter Bunny]

How old is that laptop?

[Tomas]

It's a classic.
It will be worth millions some day.

[cnyms6]

Nice looking PS cooler. Looking forward to numberz. Summer at Sebring should be a great test.

[Tomas]

Does anyone have the part number for the fuel basket / filter that houses the fuel pump and the sock?

Took the 6 to the track this week end. Everything worked pretty good except that the car is fairly under damped. I will tackle that later on.
Just got finishing up the gauge pod before heading down to Homestead.
Some observations on the different temperatures the various mechanical assemblies run at on the 6.

1. Engine oil: Temps stabilize at around 240F to 250F during track work. The large oil cooler helps a lot.

2. Transfer case: I was surprised how fast the oil in the transfer case rises to temp and stays there. It rises almost as fast as engine oil temps and much faster than transmission temp. It will climb to about 190F during regular highway driving and stay around that temp. During track work it goes up to about 250 and stays there.

3. Transmission: Temps in the tranny rise very slowly but they also take a long time to come down once hot. Highway cruising stays at around 190F and during track work they will go as high as 260F. I would have thought the tranny on the 6 would run cooler than the 3 due to the lack of an LSD but that does not seem to be the case.

4. Rear diff: Very pleasant surprise here! This thing runs cool as a cucumber. It barely goes above 140F when cruising and at the track it never hit more than about 190F after lots of punishment. I am confident that thing will never need additional fluid cooling even at higher levels of power.

Some temp readings after start up and after one or two cool down laps following the standard 30 min HPDE session.

Oh and the PS cooling system worked like a charm. No spilling off the reservoir and max temps of about 150F after session.

[Tomas]

Oh I forgot to mention that the Ron Davis rad didnt perform as expected. Coolant temps go up to 232F and stay there. I was expecting it to cool better but no luck on that. May it's just the cooling water jackets in the block that just don't allow for more efficient cooling or that the water pump just can't pump more fluid to lower the temps. Or may something as simple as the thermostat restriction even when fully open.

[Lex]

All those gauges... An engineers dream!

Would you say an oil cooler is a better investment than a bigger rad?

[Code Monkey]

How the fuck do you get 232 F coolant temps? The fan kicks in at 217. Must be a FMIC thing.

[daafisch]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey How the fuck do you get 232 F coolant temps? The fan kicks in at 217. Must be a FMIC thing.

I've seen 230's when tracking at Watkins Glen before.

[kritz]

Oil cooler for track days will certainly help. Just one of projects on my list a topmount oilcooler in place of the TMIC.

[Tomas]

Originally Posted by Lex All those gauges... An engineers dream! Would you say an oil cooler is a better investment than a bigger rad?

Yes. I would. And the bigger the oil cooler the better. Also make sure there is a lot of airflow going to it. That's better than installing a fan on top of it like I have on the 3. A fan IMO barely helps.

Originally Posted by Code Monkey How the fuck do you get 232 F coolant temps? The fan kicks in at 217. Must be a FMIC thing.

I see the same temps on the 3 with the koyo rad. There is a distinct point when coolant temps start to rise above 215F and that's when you really hit the sauce and shift at 6600 to 6900 rpm on every shift and run higher boost than about 23 psi to red line. If you lower boost to 19 or so and only rev to 6500 the temps usually stay below 215F.
And you are right about the FMIC. May be that's the culprit. I will definitely look into making some sort of shrouds to channel more air to the rad.
Also the 6 has almost 150K miles. The condenser is more like a wall right now due to all the debris trapped on the fins. That doesn't help either.

[Code Monkey]

I run only 17 psi at the track, lol.

[Tomas]

Time to grow that mangina.

[Code Monkey]

Will push 22 psi with water/meth.

[Tomas]

No one hais the part number for the filter basket and sock? Please?
Can't find it on the Mazdaspeed DM site or anywhere else.

[Code Monkey]

Does this help?

[Tomas]

Thanks. But assembly 13-350 is for the whole unit with fuel pump which costs $330. I need the part numbers for the fuel basket filter and sock alone. I know some people have bought those individual parts so those part numbers have to exist somewhere.
May be @06Speed6; and @phate; will know.

[phate]

Originally Posted by Tomas Thanks. But assembly 13-350 is for the whole unit with fuel pump which costs $330. I need the part numbers for the fuel basket filter and sock alone. I know some people have bought those individual parts so those part numbers have to exist somewhere. May be @06Speed6; and @phate; will know.

13-ZE1 in the diagram is the filter assembly. LFB6-13-ZE1

[Tomas]

Thanks.
But that's incorrect I believe. 13-ZE1 is the "fuel tank filler". The filter body / basket alone is actually L3M813ZE0D.
Called "body"

Finally found it here:


2006 Mazda 6/M Parts - DiscountedMazdaParts.com - Your Online Source for Genuine Mazda Parts and Accessories

[phate]

Originally Posted by Tomas Thanks. But that's incorrect I believe. 13-ZE1 is the "fuel tank filler". The filter body / basket alone is actually L3M813ZE0D. Called "body" Finally found it here: 2006 Mazda 6/M Parts - DiscountedMazdaParts.com - Your Online Source for Genuine Mazda Parts and Accessories

I guess I'm confused about what you need. 13-ZE1 is the pump filter.

[Dano]

Tomas...you are my hero...

oh and AC condenser??? really?? on a racecar??...com'on man!

[Mauro_Penguin]

Originally Posted by Dano Tomas...you are my hero... oh and AC condenser??? really?? on a racecar??...com'on man!

Becuz south florida?

Winter is always a nice 91*+ not to mention swamp humidity to help pressure cook humans.

You'd have to be mad to not have a/c, or maybe just cuban.

[Dano]

mi no comprende

[Tomas]

Originally Posted by phate I guess I'm confused about what you need. 13-ZE1 is the pump filter.

Well, I think what they call "the filter" is really what others call "the sock" which is a sort pf pre-filter for the pump. The "body" itself is not just a housing. The whilte plastic housing has filtering media inside of it. It is not just a housing even if the parts catalog calls it a "body".
At any rate I ordered both.

Originally Posted by Dano Tomas...you are my hero... oh and AC condenser??? really?? on a racecar??...com'on man!

Dano, I would rather get castrated than drive in Florida without AC.
And the 6 is not full homo yet. Like the 3, it will remain streetable for the foreseable future. No weight shedding or AC delete or balance shaft delete or any of those things.

[Celestspeed3]

Have you tried running 100% water with an additive or are you still using coolant?

I've noticed 100% water helped bring temps down at the track. You are in a warm climate so you don't have to worry about it freezing in the winter.

[Tomas]

No. I run about 60-70% water.
When you mean 100% water and an additive do you mean something like water wetter? Or an additive that will prevent scaling? Main reason I have to add glycol/coolant is to prevent scaling and corrosion. Not concerns about freezing. I've gone up to about 80% water and you do notice that the water will become brown and components will get coated with calcium residue i.e. scaling.

[Code Monkey]

Many folks run distilled water and Redline water wetter. I have been running a 50/50 mix so far. I do not have them with me now, but look at the instructions that came with the Ron Davis radiator, they have some recommendations as to what to use.

[Tomas]

I also use water watter. But with 30% coolant. And the water is obviously distilled.
IIRC the tests performed by one of those tuning magazines determined that the water wetter was actually more effective when used in combination with coolant than with water alone.

[SpecialK]

Subbed....cause awesome.