A History Of Violence

[Tomas]

The 3 is ready for season IV at the Ghey Thunder Dome.

Broken and replaced so far:

1. OS Gicken LSD --> grinding, oil change didn't do shit. Swapped gear box with spare having the Quaife. Will attempt to repair at some point.
2. Cylinder head --> Cam journal banks ground to shit. Swapped for head with Web cams.
3, DNP manifold --> cracked. Swapped for Steedspeed with 0.82 AR T3 stainless turbine housing. 38mm EWG. Watercooled.
4. Terboh. Ball bearings on HTA3076 kaput. Now running GTX3071 with above mentioned housing

Upgraded. Not broken:

1. Stoptech ST-40 BBK. Stock brakes still good but I've had the bbk for almost 2 years now and it is time to put my big boy pants on and give it a try. Hawk DTC70 pads will go on for track use.
2. Swapped Koni FSDs for Bill Sports with Swift springs.
3. Still have some life left in the Hancook RS3s but when they are done, will change to Toyo Proxys which are sitting in the garden shed.








Watercooling for EWG taken from the TB cooling port.



Stainless T3 housing. AR .82. Pretty light unit. Unfortunately no ones in the U.S. makes one so I had to get it from Taiwan via ebay. Meh.



Inserted a plug in the WB 02 loom. The 2 OEM plugs are a pain in the ass to get to.



Made ma heat shield out of Gauge 20 stainless. I hais the hots deflektor. Also found this nice and thick 2200 F rated ceramic and Inconel lined heat wrap material.





Brakes and shit. They fit nicely in the 17x9.5 NT03 rims. Plenty of clearance. The spacer is needed to clear the shocks. Not the calipers.

[duappleganger]

Please explain that contraption you have venting your crank case.

[El_Diablo]

Originally Posted by duappleganger Please explain that contraption you have venting your crank case.

Appears to be a check valve or canister filter.

[Boosted Beluga]

Did you use the TB coolant return line also for the wastegate?

[Tomas]

Originally Posted by duappleganger Please explain that contraption you have venting your crank case.

Originally Posted by El_Diablo Appears to be a check valve or canister filter.

It's a filter.

moroso crankcase filter - Yahoo Image Search Results

Originally Posted by Boosten Ya(josh) Did you use the TB coolant return line also for the wastegate?

The coolant line from the port in the head goes to the wastegate and from the there to the coolant reservoir. The TB is bypassed.

[Boosted Beluga]

Ok I'm planning on running an EWG and I have my TB coolant lines bypassed right now and was thinking of doing this. I'm not going to be tracking the car or anything. I know its not needed so I figured why not? Unless for some reason it will hurt me?

[Tomas]

It will not hurt you.
Unless you use it in your anus.

[Chimmike]

Looks excellent Tomas. You shall now have the braking force of that GT3 RS you rode in, eh?

Originally Posted by Tomas It's a filter. moroso crankcase filter - Yahoo Image Search Results

Did you weld that onto the VC or what?

[Tomas]

No. It's not serviceable so you need to be able to remove / change out.
I used that rubber bushing you see on the left of the pic above. It comes with the filter.

The stoptech brakes are bad ass bro. They grab like a mofo.

[Tomas]

Moar violence.
Went to Homestead for another HPDE day with the new set up and after 8-10 minutes on the course the car started feeling sluggish. It wasn't making boost very quickly and stopped building boost at around 21 psi when it should have been going up to about 26. Well, kept on driving regardless. No knock. Thought may be I have an exhaust leak on the manifold, or a crack, or a leak/crack on the Tial WGA. First time I used it on the track so didn't know how it would hold up.

Come home after the track. Start taking things apart and for the life of me couldn't find anything wrong with the manifold or the terboh. Kept looking and after a few hours fucking around I sit down to have a smoke. Grab the down pipe laying on the work bench. Look inside. And this is what I find. An asshole of molten braid from the flex pipe.





Fuckin a I mean fuckin a. Can't get a brake with this shit. So out to the welder it was to remove flex pipe and install hard pipe.

In addition to this fail there is oil all over the boot of the pressure plate lever. And it's leaking between the transmission bell housing and the engine. It is either a bad rear seal or the seal of the input shaft in the transmission. I have a feeling it's the seal on the input shaft. So now it's take the tranny out for the 5fth time and swap it again for the spare one. Meh.

Oh and I am getting a little too much crankcase pressure for my taste. I've never had the dipstick blow out or anything like that but even with the Moroso filter on the cylinder head cover I found some oil on the intake. So I rigged myself a stainless steel low cracking pressure check valve on the catch can with AN-4 line.






Here is vid. Slow speed3 is slow.

http://youtu.be/g49W6O4LDFU

http://youtu.be/g49W6O4LDFU

On separate news my rear diff on the 6 is making funny noises so I got a new one, well used one but it's new to me, from a scrapyard here in FL for an incredibly low price. $90 motherfuking dorrah shipped to my door!!!! Holly shit who says running the 6 is expensive.

[sac02]

Tomas,

You've used the OS Giken and the Quaife? Can you you give me an idea of what you did/didn't like about each?

thanks!

[Tomas]

There is nothing not to like about either one except the price. Interestingly enough they are both smoother engaging than stock and both grab more.
The OS gicken LSD is truly awesome but it does whine a bit when hot. I actually like the sound but some may find it annoying. I do not use friction modifiers.
Also, as opposed to what I wrote in the first port, the OS gicken LSD is not broken. That was a failed diagnosis on my side.

[sac02]

Awesome, thanks for the feedback. (i'm looking to put an LSD in my currently open-diff 6MT)

So you consider either option an upgrade from the stock LSD?

Is the install straightforward in the ms3's gearbox, or is it difficult? The only FWD transaxle I've ever installed a diff in was an old SE-R sentra with an SR20DE.

[Tomas]

Yes on the upgrades.
If you donate you can access the How To on the LSD swap on this forum.

[helmetface]

Just thought I'd tell you that you've inadvertently used "brake" when you should have used "break" somewhere in this thread.

That is all.

[Tomas]

[helmetface]

Originally Posted by Tomas

Haven't earned my shield yet.

Still walking around with this p.o.s. laminate, thanks for the token though.





<3

[802MS3]

I'm gonna be a dick and bump this thread, mostly because your 3 is on the backburner, and I'm redoing my whole turbo setup. I'm curious about the water line setup around the turbo and wastegate. Is it just as straightforward as it sounds? Port for TB goes to one side of the EWG...is the other side just T'd into one of the lines for the overflow tank? Everything else pretty standard, eg. EGR blockoff, that port going to turbo, turbo out to the hard pipe, with the pipe extended?

[Tomas]

Partially correct.
Coolant goes from the nipple on the coolant manifold (port for TB) by the cylinder head to the EWG and from there straight to the reservoir. No tees anywhere.

[Tomas]

Back to the 3.
Looked at all the rad fan triggers available. Liked none. Decided to insert a secondary cooling circuit.
Idea is to intercept the coolant line coming from the heater core to the oil cooler with a Y, intercept the line between the oil cooler and thermostat housing with a Tee, and install a 12V water pump and cooler in between.

Before that.
More violence.
Checked injector seals.
Broke the fucking casting on the cylinder head where the injector flanges sit tightening the bolts. God fucking damn it.





And now the cooling circuit.

This is the rad. Sits behind the crash bar.







This is the water pump. Had to relocate it later on as the breakducts wouldn't fit like this.






Post relocation





This is the Y fitting before the oil cooler



This is the Tee fitting after the oil cooler



So when the water pump is engaged. It will draw coolant after the cooler, pass it through the second radiator, and pump it back in the coolant stream right before the oil cooler.

Not sure yet if this will be effective or not. It might have been better to draw coolant from the water line that goes straight from the coolant manifold by the head to the thermostat housing and then pump it back right before the oil cooler. If the current set up proves ineffective I might go that route.

[Tomas]

Fuck. Shit was pretty seized up. Pedal was stuck to the floor.
Might have to re-install the bell housing vent.
I don't think there is any release / throw out bearing upgrade, is there?
This now the 5fth time I take one of thee trannies off.

[Tomas]

Back to the 3.

The steedspeed mani with the 38mm EWG has served me well. It does not provide for testicle quenching forward momentum however so it will replaced with a CP-E mani.
The only way to clock the 44mm Tail WG so the cooling ports do not interefere with the manifold is to point the exhaust part of it almost straight down into the downpie instead of at an agle as in the Athmosphere kit. Thus I took my cheap ebay DP to the welder and had him do this.





I have a premonition this will end up in one kind or another of fail. It is possible however that since the whole set up has a sort of qudrangular shape to it that things will expand somewhat at not unacceptably different rates and the baby Jesus willing refrain from cracking. Fuck it. We'll see.

For the mani I am using these hardened thrust washers. They are pretty sweet.
More to come

[Lion]

Good job!)

[802MS3]

So you are ditching the T3-in/vband-out stainless exhaust housing and going back to the ATP with stock flanges? Any particular reason, or just didn't want to buy a new Tial vband housing?

How did the that ebay stainless housing hold up? I never ended up using mine because of some manifold fail, but do plan on picking up a new FJ T3 manifold soon and putting that housing to use.

[Tomas]

Its not just the Tial vband housing I'd have to replace. I would also have to get a complete new custom downpipe and either a new v-band CP-e EM, or cut the stock flange of the one I have and weld a v-band onto it. Didn't want to do either option.

The ebay (made in Taiwan) housing held perfectly well. It has the usual discoloration from heat cycles but there was no warping or cracks or anything.

Main reason I changed the set up is that the steedspeed mani doesen't flow that much on the top end. I can tell you the engine sounded much better than with the Cp-e mani though.

[802MS3]

whats the dill with these thrust washers. should we all be using them??

[WetzMS3]

Originally Posted by 802MS3 whats the dill with these thrust washers. should we all be using them??

Are you drunk at the dragon, or drunk at home wishing you were are the dragon?

[802MS3]

Originally Posted by WetzMS3 Are you drunk at the dragon, or drunk at home wishing you were are the dragon?

Hahaha wishing I was at the dragon...my car is completely apart in my garage right now waiting on one of the two local fab guys nearby to return my calls and emails. No competition around here

[WetzMS3]

Originally Posted by 802MS3 Hahaha wishing I was at the dragon...my car is completely apart in my garage right now waiting on one of the two local fab guys nearby to return my calls and emails. No competition around here

That sucks man. Fab shops and machinists.

I'll throw a few back a home tonight for you, I'm missing out this year too.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Tomas]

Originally Posted by 802MS3 whats the dill with these thrust washers. should we all be using them??

I don't think they are a necessity. But they are nice.

[impossible]

I swear I'm the only guy that actually likes the sounds the Cp-e LTR manifold makes on these cars lol. Your setup is super legit for track purposes man, sucks to see all the hurdles that you had to overcome with the transmission then the head casting breaking off. What did you end up doing about that bit?

[Tomas]

I used an extended stud to clamp down the injector crows foot thingey. Not a real solution. I need to change out the head sometime. For the 4th time. Meh.

[Tomas]

Finally got my craigslist tire chancing machine working.
Had this infinity enkei spare wheel sitting around for over a year waiting for this.
Fits like a motherfucking boss. Reduced about 12 lbs in the derrier.

[802MS3]

Lol that's dope.

I just wanted to chime in and say this is one of my fav threads. I am still using the eBay T3 stainless housing with my FJ mani. Almost 2 years with this setup, almost perfect except that the exhaust housing bolts backed out and the thing almost grenaded my turbine. Good thing I heard the horrible exhaust leak. Ended up using drilled bolts and safety wire, just a pita getting it out and back in. T3 is not fun in that spot.

[Tomas]

Have you tried distorted thread nuts? Also sometimes called constant torque nuts. They are sort of oval and hard to turn on the bolts but they do not back out when they become loose.
Fuck safety wire and castle nuts.

[802MS3]

Good to know. Maybe I'll do the stud/nut combo if I ever take it apart again. I guess there is a reason that the Tial housing comes with titanium bolts. Stainless must expand and contract more than iron? It's been good for the last year+ with the safety wire though. Can't believe I'm still running on the stock motor

[Tomas]

Fuck yeah stock motor FTW
If you already have them with safety wire then leave it like that. That's definetly the most secure solution its just a pita.