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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I will repair it with a pro in this domain ... but if I want to avoid rust after this job. What can I modify to help. I already apply an anti-rust every year (KROWN - one of the best), wash my car every week during summer and every 1 - 2 weeks during winter. I'm detailling my car every spring and seal it 2 times a year. I will try to smooth the rear plastic bumper. Maybe with the vibration of it, it rub againt the paint of the rear fender. Changer the rear bolt that hold the bumper with the body to avoid the movement of the rear bumper. Let see if you have better idea.
__________________ 2008 MAZDASPEED3 Black Stratified Tuned / Stage 2 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I just paid to have mine fixed. Sand blasted to bare metal and repainted. Some other rust with the bumper mounts and stone chips in other areas were fixed as well. The guy put some clear tape between the bumper and the body panel. He said the vibration causes the issue. I'm hoping the tape will eliminate much of the vibration contact but I'm interested in other solutions as well.
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| Neutral : +1 score See this is where I had rust repaired. You can see the one side post sandblasting and post painting. You can see below the fuel door was where the bumper rubs on mine. Same on the other side but not quite as bad(had it fixed at the same time though).
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Perfect ! I will do the same ... both side at the same time. But when you talk about the clear tape between the bumper and the body ... you can't see it from the outside ... the clear tape is just fitting the larger of the bumper section under the body ???
__________________ 2008 MAZDASPEED3 Black Stratified Tuned / Stage 2 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The tape is basically between the bumper and the body panel where it is touching which caused the rusting issue in the first place. It's right at the end if the bumper by the wheel well where it was sand blasted. I'm going to look into getting some more durable 3M film or something. The tape isn't visible unless you look hard since it's cut so it doesn't stick out past the panel.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Where did you get it repaired? I've got rust starting and it's freaking me out. I'm in Brampton, Ontario and don't mind a little drive. As Long as it's done with amazing care and work. Would really like some help. And any idea on how much they charged you? |
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I got it repaired in a body shop in London. The guy has been off work for a while though because he tore his rotator cuff. I think any good body shop can fix it though. He charged me $800 which is a lot but it took care of the problem(so far).
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Mine already peel and I see rust around all the both rear fender ... and I use 3M tape around all the fender ... it's so bad
__________________ 2008 MAZDASPEED3 Black Stratified Tuned / Stage 2 | |
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It actually held up fine so far. No bubbling, peeling or anything on the repainted spots.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Do you have 3m tape all around the fender Envoyé de mon HTC One X
__________________ 2008 MAZDASPEED3 Black Stratified Tuned / Stage 2 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Not the whole fender but I do have some tape between the parts where the fender and bumper touch I got it done before there was a lot of rust. It was just starting to be visible through the paint. So maybe it wasn't too bad to the point where it'll come back quickly.
__________________ JBR SRI+TIP, Autotech internals, Stratified stage 2 flash tune, Corksport BPV, UR test pipe, Damond Motorsports RMM Last edited by CaptainCode; 03-22-2015 at 07:52 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score What is the best technique to repair my rear fender (product, step, finalisation) Because I need to repair again my rear fender and I really want the best method to solve this problem for a long run. We got rough winter here with salt, rock, ice, snow, -35C and sometimes +5C during the same week in winter ... So if somebody work in a body shop and know something in this world can you help me with your knowledge please. Thanks
__________________ 2008 MAZDASPEED3 Black Stratified Tuned / Stage 2 Last edited by Atomic41; 03-23-2015 at 03:50 PM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm curious to hear back on this as well. I'm in Minnesota and this is most definitely an issue for me. My back left drivers door is beginning to bubble underneath and I will be needing to get it repaired this coming summer. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score MS6 has same issue where the bumper rubs the fender. I tried to use paint bens to fix where paint had rubbed off but it looks like it didn't hold up so I sprayed with LPS3.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Anyone ever try the rust dissolver/neutralizers? I bought some but have not yet applied it to the car. I figure it would be worth to try after the winter.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score They sort of work if you let a part soak in it. But just spraying it on a rusted panel or seam won't do squat. Take it from me on these cars, once you have rust bubbles get it repaired quick and well if you care about the look of the car in 2 years. |
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Thanks for your feedback
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Someone try POR-15 in their rear fender to avoid to coming back again !?!?!
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No actually it's coming back again. The paint is starting to bubble now on both sides where it was originally starting to rust before. Not going to fix it again because there is some worse rust on the fender in front of the rear wheel and it's starting to deform the metal. So it got me a couple of years but that's all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I POR'd my undercarriage last year, and re apply every 6 months where needed. Absolutely zero rot, just some surface rust here and there
__________________ 2007 MS3 True Red HKS BOV-K&N CAI-APV3-CS TMIC CS Short Throw-Whiteline Bushings-CS Rear Bar 1968 Mustang Built 289 w/ factory heads Built C4 Bulit 8" posi Runs low 14's at 100 flat |
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__________________ 2008 MAZDASPEED3 Black Stratified Tuned / Stage 2 Last edited by Atomic41; 01-28-2017 at 06:37 AM. | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Can I go with these if I want to cut my oem rusty rear fender and install fresh new one Here the part number : VARIOUS MFR RRP3762 VARIOUS MFR RRP3761 More Information for VARIOUS MFR RRP3762 More Information for VARIOUS MFR RRP3761 Thanks for your help
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Just going to leave it. Too much cost to cut out the metal and weld in new plus paint again Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Envoyé de mon HTC One M9
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Using a good level PPG ceramiclear on rear fender to avoid damage to it and final avoid rust do you think it could be a good idea ???
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Or maybe line x for the under part ... it seem a really Good product to avoid rock chip ... what you Think ???
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have painted cars on a professional level and the design of our bumpers fucking sucks. Plus, rust protection seems to be shit on mazdas. I have an 05 mazda 3 and an 07 speed3. Where 3 is already rusted, the speed3 is starting to show rust in exactly same spots. Poor design, lack of paint in certain areas, cracked caulking. Since speed3 is built and I don't drive it in the winter, I am going to wait till the rust gets bad then get a Texas/Vegas shell. I might be able to pick up a shell for $1k. I could cut the quarters and fix em myself but it is just a band aid. You could slow down rust with POR-15. However to be honest, one would have to strip the whole suspension, clear all the rust mechanically, spray everything with acid to neutralize the remaining rust and then spray the whole thing with a good quality epoxy primer. Also, at that time you would fix any through rust by welding metal in. It is a shit load of work that I don't think I would do on a econobox.
__________________ 2007 TR MazdaSpeed3:Autotech FP inernals, CorkSport Turbo, TR8 Front Mount w/CX piping, JBR 3" intake, COBB EBCS, Cobb AP, Toyota Injector Seals, FR stud mod, Fidanza flywheel/LUK clutch, Forge BPV v2, cp-e xFlex stage 2 RMM, Wiseco .20 Pistons/Manley Rods/BSD, Dual DM catch cans, Koni Yellows/H&R springs, FD wheels, eBay downpipe, stock CBE 2005 Mazda 3 SP23: mods include rusty quarter panels and grinding 3rd gear. It does have a fusion motor, so I guess that's a mod too. |
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I've used it and I have 0 rust on my speed 6 ,and I've been in NJ and upstate NY the whole 10 years I've driven it. I use neutralizer and then rust prevention | |
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