Preventing rust - the cancer for cars

[snailD]

Originally Posted by Lex I would spray this over underbody surface rust to prevent any more spread. If you sandblast the underbody and paint it you will likely get more rust in the end since the coverage is never ideal unless done by a professional with the right tools. Remove dirt, leave the paint that remains and just apply this.

i'm not sure I 100% follow your logic. you are saying on the re-paint you worry about coverage correct?

[mazdafreak]

Well sandblast will remove all the rust....and id have it professionally painted/powdercoated then spray that stuff u have on it

[Lex]

Originally Posted by mazdafreak Well sandblast will remove all the rust....and id have it professionally painted/powdercoated then spray that stuff u have on it

That will work.

I just saw some bad undercoating jobs done with a brush on the floor under the car and it didn't turn out well.

The only way to get proper coverage with paint is to remove the parts, blast, prep, paint. Sounds like you're doing it right.

[snailD]

Originally Posted by Lex That will work. I just saw some bad undercoating jobs done with a brush on the floor under the car and it didn't turn out well. The only way to get proper coverage with paint is to remove the parts, blast, prep, paint. Sounds like you're doing it right.

yes this is the plan

[BAT-man]

I would consider rust converters prior to coating, if sandblasting is not an option (it isn't for most of us). So -
1) Prep, clean (power wash/wash/sandblast), & dry 2) Apply rust converter to current surface rust / anywhere you think it may form 3) Apply grease/underbody coat of choice.

[CosmicArkie]

^^THIS^^

Rust-mort or something similar

Item Detail

[Elwood617]

Good info, thanks for sharing

[mazdafreak]

Rear end is out. Dropping off monday for sandblasting and powdercoating.








Will post before and after pics next week..... subframe will be dropped next for same thing.

[mazdafreak]

What would you guys recommend doing for this rust? Since I can't remove it and have sandblasted/coated.


Just grind down and paint myself?

[alphasaur]

wirebrush & rust converter

[CosmicArkie]

Originally Posted by alphasaur wirebrush & rust converter

Winner!

[mariomspeed]

@mazdafreak; shawn im sick of seeing your car in the garage more than on the street.
jk, wish I didn't have to daily mine.

[mazdafreak]

Originally Posted by mariomspeed @mazdafreak; shawn im sick of seeing your car in the garage more than on the street. jk, wish I didn't have to daily mine.

Hahaha. I kno. Its no funn. It'll be out this spring for sure. Just a few more things I need.

[mituc]

There's no powder coating that will prevent rust. Over time the pain will crack, exfoliate, or be penetrated by the particles of sand thrown at very high speeds.

The best that you can do for your car is to spray some anti-rust wax once in a while (ideally before every winter) and that will hold better than power coating IMHO. These waxes will also cover the small chips and holes in the pain, eventually bond with the already existing rust and create an hermetic layer what will be thicker and more elastic than whatever you get on those parts by power coating them.

[mariomspeed]

@mazdafreak; ya well see

[mazdafreak]

Originally Posted by mituc There's no powder coating that will prevent rust. Over time the pain will crack, exfoliate, or be penetrated by the particles of sand thrown at very high speeds. The best that you can do for your car is to spray some anti-rust wax once in a while (ideally before every winter) and that will hold better than power coating IMHO. These waxes will also cover the small chips and holes in the pain, eventually bond with the already existing rust and create an hermetic layer what will be thicker and more elastic than whatever you get on those parts by power coating them.

If u seen the rust on under my car, it needs sandblasting and coating. Then I'm spraying it with anti-rust shit to help prevent it. Car doesn't see winter. I bought it used tho with 18, xxx on car in chicago. So car wasn't clean.

[aviator79]

I made a right angle end for my pressure washer (very small gas PW) to clean the house AC and worked great, now realize this will help to clean my car as it has gone thru the worst winter ever as I never used to drive it. My engine bay is white. Definitely going to try to clean it up this summer as plan to drive it into the ground and dont want rust being the end of the car.
For those without a lift can make one of these. Just prepare to get soaked, were eye protection and use a plastic creaper or the sears one made of particle board will fall apart like mine already has. And use something like 2000psi or less PW.
Right angle thing I made from parts at HD:

[mazdafreak]

Before:





AFTER:

[BAT-man]

That is some good pressure washing right there, looks like new

Seriously, did you sandblast and then paint?

[mazdafreak]

Originally Posted by BAT-man That is some good pressure washing right there, looks like new Seriously, did you sandblast and then paint?

Im very good with my powerwasher!



Had my guy sandblast and powdercoat it with a clearcoat. No more rust! and will not have any rust!

All new rear end bolts going in too. Only like $140 for bolts only $260 for whole rear end + 2 brake brackets and compressor housing blasted and coated.

[Lex]

Looks very good. Apply the waxy spray before you assemble and every winter as well to prevent rust from starting when any chips form.

The rust protection from the factory on this car is really poor.

[mazdafreak]

Will do! Car wont be seeing any rain or water after all this. But its still gonna get as much protection as i can do to it.


Next will be dropping the subframe!

[Atomic41]

With a 20 oz bottle of LPS ... can I do all under the car ?

With your 2 cans - 11oz spray can @Lex; you can do all the underneath ?

[Lex]

Originally Posted by Atomic41 With a 20 oz bottle of LPS ... can I do all under the car ? With your 2 cans - 11oz spray can @Lex; you can do all the underneath ?

I use about 2 cans for one application.

[Atomic41]

Originally Posted by Lex I use about 2 cans for one application.

You apply before the winter ... or anytime and it stay there ?

[Semp]

I think I will be applying this to the underside of my 6 before next winter hits. Some of the suspension components are already quite rusty looking. Will a wire brush really take all of the rust off?...

[mazdafreak]

All done. Looks so good.

[aviator79]

Anyone want to go in on a case or 12 of LPS-3? Would be $11.59 a can rather than $40 for 2 cans. Obviously have to be sort of local to CT...

[mazdafreak]

Originally Posted by aviator79 Anyone want to go in on a case or 12 of LPS-3? Would be $11.59 a can rather than $40 for 2 cans. Obviously have to be sort of local to CT...

Amazon.com: Lps Laboratories 00316 LPS 3 Heavy-Duty Rust Inhibitor: Automotive

Amazon.com: Lps Laboratories 00316 LPS 3 Heavy-Duty Rust Inhibitor: Automotive
Amazon.com: Lps Laboratories 00316 LPS 3 Heavy-Duty Rust Inhibitor: Automotive

[helmetface]

Originally Posted by mituc There's no powder coating that will prevent rust. Over time the pain will crack, exfoliate, or be penetrated by the particles of sand thrown at very high speeds. The best that you can do for your car is to spray some anti-rust wax once in a while (ideally before every winter) and that will hold better than power coating IMHO. These waxes will also cover the small chips and holes in the pain, eventually bond with the already existing rust and create an hermetic layer what will be thicker and more elastic than whatever you get on those parts by power coating them.

A few questions to follow-up:

Are you concerned about moisture getting trapped between the wax and the frame? Obviously this would create a prime environment for some fast acting rust.

With this method, are you still washing the underside of your body a few times a year? Or just keep spraying on the wax?

[mituc]

Originally Posted by helmetface Are you concerned about moisture getting trapped between the wax and the frame? Obviously this would create a prime environment for some fast acting rust.

No. That wax would merge with water and oxydes (rust) and once done it will become quite hard to penetrate.

Originally Posted by helmetface With this method, are you still washing the underside of your body a few times a year? Or just keep spraying on the wax?

From time to time I wash the belly of the car. It doesn't get too dirty apart from the wheel wells and everything in the front: steering knuckles, front tampers, axles, and so on, you know what area I'm referring to...

However, even if you use a turbojet to wash those areas you waxed the wax itself isn't affected. As far as I know it is affected by vibrations, temperature extremes and sanding. So that's the reason you have to renew that layer of underside wax, not because you wash the car with high pressure water.

[aviator79]

Originally Posted by mazdafreak Amazon.com: Lps Laboratories 00316 LPS 3 Heavy-Duty Rust Inhibitor: Automotive One can did my whole rearend. amazon lil cheaper. ~$14 a can

Well its $19 a can with ship thats why was going to get a 12 pack then would be $11.59/can. Probably find enough locals to make it work just wanted to post here.

On a side note the sheet on this says its good for 2 years inside. How well will this really hold up? I assume may need to respray every year or so here and there?

[mazdafreak]

Ohh I was amazon prime member so it's like all free shipping.

[mrQQ]

That's what I wanted to ask - your cars all look very clean. Over hear, with snow, mud, rain, dust and dirt the under is covered in dirt. Spraying on top if it wouldnt make any sense, so how do you clean it off before?

also, how do you save wheel arches?

[Tyhackman15]

Bump, because it's that time of the year again. Just bought 2 20oz spray bottles of this stuff for my current DD. It's from NM so 100% rust free, WI will be a great test for how well LPS-3 holds up. I'll be sure to post results, etc...

[makjur]

I'm gearing up to do some rust removal/prevention myself.
My dad recently did his 99 ford ranger's rear frame with POR15... he had the bed removed, gas tank off, break lines etc... shit is better then new at this point
He has some left over and I'll be using a small pneumatic hand grinder to remove any corrosion and painting over with this stuff. I'll also scuff up the in tact existing paint and coat over it with the POR15.
Its basically an acrylic coating, shit is nasty to work with and smells like death though

Amazon.com: POR-15 45009 Gloss Black Super Starter Kit - 20 fl. oz.: Automotive

Amazon.com: POR-15 45009 Gloss Black Super Starter Kit - 20 fl. oz.: Automotive
Amazon.com: POR-15 45009 Gloss Black Super Starter Kit - 20 fl. oz.: Automotive

[BAT-man]

Winter is coming, so a little resurrect to get more info on the topic in here -
Been searching around for a bit, both for this platform and another '90s vehicle that I'll be doing some under-body restoration on...
After hitting a surface rust spot with the wire wheel, what do you folks prefer for rust conversion/primer, before you hit it with some 3M rubberized undercoat?

I've seen good things about Ospho
(http://www.amazon.com/Ospho-Skyco-Su...+Surface+Prep])
which is chemically a great way to convert iron to phosphate.

I've also heard good things about Evaporust
(Evapo-Rust? Rust Remover - 1 Gallon)
which is a little cheaper but I'm not sure if provides the same level of conversion/protection before undercoating...

Both are probably less for the subframe and more for the actual shell/sheetmetal itself, although the wirebrushing+Ospho I probably would use as an alternative to sandblasting/powdercoating, prior to shooting it with some undercoating.

Any input?

[Tyhackman15]

Originally Posted by mrQQ That's what I wanted to ask - your cars all look very clean. Over hear, with snow, mud, rain, dust and dirt the under is covered in dirt. Spraying on top if it wouldnt make any sense, so how do you clean it off before? also, how do you save wheel arches?

Best bet is a pressure washer. The stuff will be fine sprayed over some dirt though, just don't spray it when the car is wet or salty.

I put a coat of it on my arches. I don't care if some shows, it's winter my car is usually filthy anyway.

[aviator79]

Originally Posted by BAT-man Winter is coming, so a little resurrect to get more info on the topic in here - Been searching around for a bit, both for this platform and another '90s vehicle that I'll be doing some under-body restoration on... After hitting a surface rust spot with the wire wheel, what do you folks prefer for rust conversion/primer, before you hit it with some 3M rubberized undercoat? I've seen good things about Ospho (http://www.amazon.com/Ospho-Skyco-Su...+Surface+Prep]) which is chemically a great way to convert iron to phosphate. I've also heard good things about Evaporust (Evapo-Rust? Rust Remover - 1 Gallon) which is a little cheaper but I'm not sure if provides the same level of conversion/protection before undercoating... Both are probably less for the subframe and more for the actual shell/sheetmetal itself, although the wirebrushing+Ospho I probably would use as an alternative to sandblasting/powdercoating, prior to shooting it with some undercoating. Any input?

Nope.

Im just going to pressure wash and spray with LPS3.

[802MS3]

Can anyone comment on how the LPS3 holds up to a touchless car wash that has a high pressure undercarriage spray?