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Anthony, basically you are running an 18x8.5 +40 wheel (accounting for the spacer) and 255/35's... I'm wondering if I would be able to run an 18x8.5 +40 (with no spacer) and 245/35 or 235/40 without having to change the camber or roll the front fenders...? I have the MS CO's installed and am lowered about 1"... I'm used to 245/40's on my old Maxima, but running 245/35's on the MS3 makes me think the ride will be even more bumpy/jarring - which is a reason to stick with 235/40's... EDIT - Also, I was running a set of 18 x 8 +42 with 235/40/18's on them and I'd rub in the rear when hitting bumps - and my fenders were already pulled - how are you able to run 18 x 8 +40 with 255's ? that's pushing the tire about 15mm even further out of the fender...
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm looking at a 17x8 ET50 wheel (Kosei K4R) and I want to run a 245/40 RS3 on it. What spacers do you think I will need to run to clear everything? Rear fenders are already rolled. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Probably none, especially if you're on Koni Yellows as you are (or any other OEM style setup, for that matter). I'm thinking I might be able to run a 245 section width on my 18x8s and I've got coilovers (that sit closer to the inside edge of the tire). What I'm saying is that I'm currently running 235/40R18 tires on 18x8 et50 wheels as my summer setup with a decent amount of room, so you may be just fine with that setup using no spacers at all...
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So what would need to be done to run 255/40/18? Will probably be on koni yellows by the time this happens. Would like the wheels to sit flush with the car. Is this a pipe dream? Go Search first then come back?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score its been done...i think its a white first gen ms3 with black or gunmetal wheels keep in mind COs give you more room on the inside, so think about going that route if having 255s are that important to you. get on a tire calculator and be ready for some fender/camber work and trying a few different small spacers to make it perfect. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ok, I finally bought some rims that give me 2mm clearance on my StopTech BBK. They are SSR Type F 18x8 +38. Can you guys tell me if I'll be able to run 235/40/18 tires with no problems? My rear fenders are already slightly rolled - not extremely though.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I think that'd be fine. There are guys running 235/40R18 tires on 18x8.5 wheels of the same offset (Evo X wheels) with no more than a roll in the rear, so I think you'll be alright.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score No problem. I'd predict that at most, you'll need to get a bit more "thorough" with your rear roll (depending on how flat you got things the first time) and a little massaging (i.e., grinding) of the area where the rear bumper meets the unibody.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Dearlership wanted to charge me $350/tire for stock replacements. I couldn't believe it. But I do need tires, so I'm looking at getting 235/40/18 Hankook R-S3s. I still have stock wheels and will be keeping them. Appears I'll be ok to put those on, correct? I'm not seeing anyone running that set up who had to make adjustments. Hankook Ventus R-S3
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| Not Ranked : 0 score okay so im looking to gett the 522 18x9.5 with a +38 offset i am lowered on springs i have just under 2 finger gap in the front and 2 in the back will thes wheels fit? will i need to roll?i will be running thes wheels on a 225/40/18 tire thanks in advance
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Was thinking about buying some fd wheels, and running 245/50/16 which pretty much matches stock height. I understand that the offset is around +50 on these wheels, do I need spacers for strut clearance on stock suspension, roll the rears or do you guys have any suggestions for me on this venture? Thanks |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I've actually been wondering (since I just bought a set) how hard it's going to be to get 18x8.5 ET48 to fit, and what work is involved.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score First of all, thank you so much for putting this thread together. This is one of the reasons why I love this community. ![]() Ok, now for the reason why I'm in this thread. At first, I was looking into getting a set of 17x8 wheels, but couldn't find any that I like. So I found a set of Rota Grids, but its extreamly wide. They're 17x9 with a 42 offset. I'm going with 245/40/17 gforce kdw's for tires. At the moment, I'm stock suspension, but I want to go eiback prokit with koni yellows. Question is, would I need spacers (if so, what size) and do I need to roll all 4 fenders or just the rear? Thank you in advance for your replies. Sorry if this is a newb question, but I'd preffer to get this right the first time.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Turns out you CANNOT run 18x8 +38 with 235/40's on a 1" drop with MS CO's without a roll and some grinding! Not sure how anyone says they can run 255's on an 8 or 8.5" wheel without rubbing (even with a roll) - unless maybe they're at stock height with super stiff struts/shocks in the back... Had to have my fenders rolled (more) and some grinding done on the bumper tab thingy to make it livable... Sent from my iPhone using lame ass Tapatalk
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| Not Ranked : 0 score had my Hankook v12 235/40/18s put on my genpu stock wheels. no issues at all. looks great.
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Now I'm "Hellaflush" lol and only get some very slight rubbing when hitting a big bump or dip at freeway speeds... I'll probably be raising the rear by about 1/4" when I get my corksport front camber plates installed, which will add even more clearance... Sent from my iPhone using lame ass Tapatalk
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| Not Ranked : 0 score mmm... good thread OP lol wheel sizing and suspension shit blows my mind, with my driveway I can't afford any kind of drop. too poor to consider new wheels anyway. But when I do I'll probably spend a good few days with the links on this thread finding out what gets me the best performance... with stock height and virgin fenders lol.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Okay guys, so im going a little crazy.. I am looking at buying a set of Rota G Forces. 18x9 +30 and will be wrapped in some 235/40/18 Continental DW. I understand rolling the rear fenders most likely will need to be done. But the real question i have is do you guys think i will run into any problems with the stock suspension (specifically the struts)? According to this website ---> LINKY (wheel specs already typed in) They should fit because the part of the rim closest to the strut is actually a little bit farther away than the stock rim. So if anyone could chime in and either reassure me that these will work or give me a heads up on what might need to be done. Spacers? I dunno really i just dont want to buy them and have to do a ton of shit to get them to fit. Thanks in advance for any help/advice.
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My wheels are 18x8 +38 and they are flush. 18x9+30 is going to put you another ~21 mm further outside my wheels - that's over 3/4 of an inch. My advice- don't do it If you want to stay that wide, you need to get a higher offset wheel - like in the +44 or higher range.. IMHO Edit - another way to think of it is that compared to the stock 18x7 +52 gen one wheel, your wheel is going to be ~47 mm further towards the fender... Almost 2 inches! Sent from my iPhone using lame ass Tapatalk
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Much better... You might still need a little roll in the back, but you won't have any where near the headache as the other wheels would give you. The 18x8.5 +48 with 235/40 should push you ~3mm in from the fender (when compared to my wheels) toward the strut. Much better choice. Sent from my iPhone using lame ass Tapatalk
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__________________ 2011 Black Mica Mazdaspeed3 w/ Tech Package CorkSport SRI/TIP Combo: COBB AP Custom Tune @20psi: Autotech Internals: OBX Racing Cat Back: CNT Catless Long DP: CPe TMIC: Forge V1 BPV: JBR 80 duro RMM: JBR SSP+Knob+Bushings: H&R Springs: Rota G-Force 18x8.5 +48 Continental Extreme Contact DW 235/40/18: | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Spacers would push you out towards the fender again... I can't guarantee fitment on the inside (strut) side since I don't have anything to compare them to.. But I think you'll be fine... Stock wheels are +52 and your +48 pushes the wheel 4mm more away from the strut. Your 8.5" wheel though equates to .75" (3/4") or about ~19mm more width in each side pushing you back 19mm towards the strut. Subtract the 4mm you pushed out from the 19mm you pushed in and that leaves you with a net of 15mm closer to the strut than the stock wheel.. If I'm thinking straight this late at night... I ran my old 18x8 +48 OZ wheels with 235/40 with no problems with inside clearance... Your setup would be 1/4" closer to the strut than mine was... You'll need to crawl under and measure to be sure... Edit - fixed some numbers I had wrong lol Sent from my iPhone using lame ass Tapatalk
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![]() | | #74 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score so i have heard mixed thoughts on this but havent posted it here. im buying a set of 18*7.5 evo 6 enkeis +45 offset. looking to put some 225/40 general g max as-03's on. will i need a roll or not? i have a fender roller available at one of the meets just wanna know if i need it before i can mount them. btw stock suspension no drop or anything. no plans to drop, maybe konis at some point.
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![]() | | #76 | ![]() |
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Thanks again man! Much appreciated!
__________________ 2011 Black Mica Mazdaspeed3 w/ Tech Package CorkSport SRI/TIP Combo: COBB AP Custom Tune @20psi: Autotech Internals: OBX Racing Cat Back: CNT Catless Long DP: CPe TMIC: Forge V1 BPV: JBR 80 duro RMM: JBR SSP+Knob+Bushings: H&R Springs: Rota G-Force 18x8.5 +48 Continental Extreme Contact DW 235/40/18: | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I see it says 17" is the smallest that will clear the brakes. I'm looking on tire rack and CL for a cheap set of winter rims/tires and I'm even willing to go with steelies but tire rack doesn't sell steelies in 17 and they recommend a 16" setup for winter tires. Why would they offer this if a 16" wheel won't clear the brakes? Just wanted to confirm that the 17 is the smallest. I might just find a set of wheels I like and put them on the genpu and use the stockers for winter/auto-x. My head is spinning with all this wheel talk though. Going to have to sleep on it and come back and re-read all of this.
__________________ Bone Stock 2012 BM Non-Tech for 2500 miles. (250 whp/265 wtq Moore Auto). Currently: K04/Cobb AP/AT internals/Magnaflow CBE/M2 DP/Cobb SRI/HTP TIP/CS boost tubes/CS recirc hose/TS BPV/SU TMIC/GS EBCS/JBR EGR delete/Coolant bypass/Thermal TB gasket/NGK 6510's/JBR SSP/JBR Knob/JBR 88 RMM/JBR SSB/DDM 35w 5000k HIDs/PAC Gateway iPod integration and Sirius. (301whp/360wtq Moore Auto). Finklefied Hypnotic tune. 14.1@106 Mason Dixon- Driver mod needed. [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
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