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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score After reinstalling my engine I received the CEL P2006, which is variable tumble control system (VTCS) shutter valve stuck closed. This seems to be a common issue for anyone that removes their intake manifold. There is a small plastic piece that triggers this sensor either closed or open. From what I have read this part only comes with a new manifold and was not about to shell out more money for something so small. Huge shout out to Vansquish, as he was the first person to make mention of the fix. Also sorry for the mess of an engine, had to relocate the car half put together to a new house. Now for the fix it is ridiculously easy and FREE! (I'll try and remember the steps to get to the part, however i had my engine partially disassembled already so steps could vary) To gain access to the area we need, you must first remove the engine cover, TMIC, and Intake. Now you will be looking at a mounting plate with two wire harness on them. Disconnect these two harnesses. There are two bolts that hold this plate in place both are 8mm, one is easily seen on top: ![]() The second is located on the right side of the head you can see here: ![]() Now with the plate removed you will be able to see the broken plastic piece: ![]() The actuator moves this the VTCS sensor, which is held on by two phillips head screws. We want to remove the top one. ![]() Once removed you will want to bend the entire bracket/sensor forward, it should be pretty easy to bend. You want it to sit right on top of the actuator so it pushes the plunger in: ![]() Now when ever the actuator is pushed in the sensor is allowed to travel outwards: ![]() Install in reverse order and enjoy the results Last edited by kdotspeed; 12-17-2017 at 07:01 AM. Reason: Fixing image link and adding credit to original user |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Perfect timing. This is on my list of to-dos whenever I got around to searching for the solution. Many thanks.
__________________ 2006 MS6 BCM JBR SSP, CP-E RMM, CP-E Rear Diff mount, RSB, AT internals, Full Race Intake, TR8 FMIC, EGR delete, AP V3, Stratified tune, Carbotech pads, TLT springs, Bilsteins SpeedPerformance rebuild, EFR 7163, Full Race Ex Mani & DP Street: Conti DWS 225/50-17 on 17x7 et 45, Track: Nitto NT-05 255/40-17 on Enkei RPF1 137,000 miles of driving fun |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I guess I've been lucky so far. Manifold has been off maybe a half dozen times and didn't know this was a potential problem. My luck, now that I know about it, it will break the next time I have it off.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score can anyone get the pics i cant see them fml |
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can you send them to my email plz @ alvaradobraghiroly@gmail.com i need to fix this by tomorrow so i can get the car smoged lol | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Original post fixed, dropped useless photobucket |
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| Good job on the write-up, and far better pictures than what was in my original post with the fix here: Now what..P2006
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Keep up the excellent work!
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Anyone have pictures of what the non broken plastic piece looks like? I've tried asking my mechanic to look into this, however he didn't think that the plastic piece was broken. I've already paid to have the shutter valve replaced... but I still have the P2006 CEL popping up. I'm questioning now if I have a bad throttle position switch...or if this plastic piece is really broken. I really don't want to have to buy a new intake manifold to resolve this. I guess everyone is frustrated with these issues. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ok.... interesting. Funny that you can't find pics anywhere in Google of that piece. At some point...I'm just wondering if my intake manifold really is broken and closed shut... been chasing this P2006 code for a minute now and nothing seems to fix it. That piece is under a bunch of stuff and I just need to have my mechanic take it apart and really look at it.... (he said that it looked fine to him... so next step might be a whole new intake manifold...) My last step is asking him to force the throttle position switch closed in order to get rid of P2006 and possible trigger that other code that pops if the intake is open... I need to rule out if I have a faulty throttle position switch. Just more money...more money... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks for the info.... I'll advise my mechanic. Admittedly...I don't like messing with it myself.... not my area of expertise, but knowledge is power. Thanks again for the suggestion. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Oh....ok....so that one the piece isn't broken. Gotcha. I guess that confused me. LOL |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Great job with the photos!! I have had the P2006 CEL for about 2 years, but it's been very intermittent. It started about once ever 2-3 weeks and could easily be reset with my code reader while I was driving down the road. There was never any physical indication of engine issues - just the P2006 CEL. Lately, the code has become more frequent, coming on every 1 or 2 days, typically when the car is first used in the morning. In addition, I am now getting a slight engine miss for about 2 minutes when the light first comes on, which typically occurs about 1-3 minutes after starting from cold. However, the engine misfires go away after 2 minutes and I can then reset the P2006 CEL and drive for hours with no issues. My Mazda dealer tried to solve my P2006 intermittent issue and replaced the "variable swirl solenoid valve" after he determined that the valving in the manifold itself was operating as it should. Unfortunately, that didn't help. The Mazda dealer is a good guy and is willing to continue to work on the issue without charging me, but I realize it's very difficult to diagnose an intermittent problem. It seems to me that the broken plastic piece you describe would NOT result in an intermittent 2 minute problem because the piece is permanently broken. It also seems that resetting the CEL would lead to another P2006 CEL within a few minutes. Did the broken plastic piece result in very intermittent P2006 CEL like I am having, or was it a pretty constant P2006 CEL? Thanks for your help!! |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Thank you! When mine was causing the CEL, it was intermittent on how long i could drive but not in the fact that it always did come back within about 20 miles or less. However mine was caused by me removing my manifold and breaking the plastic piece. If the plastic is not broken nor did you remove the manifold it would probably be something else. Also i did not have miss-fire issues either. I have seen ground and power issues right in that area so maybe something electrical? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks for the quick reply! I didn't think your problem matched my intermittent situation, but it was worth asking. I could easily live with my P2006 code because I have become pretty handy at resetting the CEL as I am driving down the road. However, I have a Connecticut emissions test due in November, and they will fail the car because the code remains in the computer memory for several cold/hot engine cycles. I think my hope is that the intermittent problem becomes a constant problem in the next couple of months with constant engine miss-fires because that will be much easier for Mazda to diagnose. Thanks again! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hey all I was wondering if this P2006 fix works for my 2010 Speed3? I ask this because the fix is posted in the 2006-2009 section and I don’t have the P2006 but the p2009. Is there any adverse effects to doing this? In performance? Thanks so much! |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score It’s worth checking for sure, I’m not totally sure though if it would be the same resolution. I think your code is when the valve is stuck closed. If you want to take some pictures and post it here can certainly take a look together. |
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. I ended up replacing the Intake Manifold Runner Control Solenoid Valve and all seems to be well! I may post a thread about my findings and experience, hopefully it helps others! | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have a 2009 MS3 that just put out a CEL P2006 code, any idea where that intake manifold runner control valve/solenoid is located? |
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Yep. Pull off your TMIC and it’s in inside of the little black box towards the front of the engine bay. Here’s the location, this obviously ain’t a stock engine bay Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thank you Tru3, going to get the part ordered and install it, hopefully it shuts off the cel. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Anyone know the name of the plastic piece? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks Db09, maybe you should also re read as the plastic piece is never named. Was going to try and replace the piece. Again thanks for the support DBb09 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Actually, you need to read and/or do a teensy bit of legwork yourself. The plastic piece has no individual part number, which you would know if you spent even 5 minutes looking at a Mazda parts website. There is no way to replace the plastic piece individually, the only thing you can order from Mazda that includes it is the entire intake manifold.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You could always go to the dealer and try that out. Phone calls work wonders even though we all use the interwebs. You have my full support in you doing some leg work.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have the P2006 code, I can clear it and the CEL will stay off as long as the engine is running but the CEL comes back after almost every restart. The mechanical part of the system seems to be operating as intended, I can watch the actuator turn the linkage to open up the butterflies in the intake as the engine warms up or when starting/turning off a warm engine. I haven't noticed any drivability issues with the car since the CEL started coming on. I thought I had found the issue when I found this thread but when I got to the plastic piece, it is not broken. The car is stock and I doubt that the intake has ever been off. Could it be the plunger/ sensor itself or do I start with the intake manifold runner control valve/solenoid?
__________________ Push the envelope. Watch it bend. 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 Tech Celestial Blue Mica 2016 Tacoma DCSB 4x4 TRD Sport Upgrade pkg 6 spd manual. 2005 Mustang GT (C&L Racer CAI, SCT SF3 + tune, MGW short shifter, GT500 swaybars, dampers, strut bar and wheels, Michelin PSS) sold |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score No, I haven't gotten it resolved. I'm still driving around with the annoying CEL.
__________________ Push the envelope. Watch it bend. 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 Tech Celestial Blue Mica 2016 Tacoma DCSB 4x4 TRD Sport Upgrade pkg 6 spd manual. 2005 Mustang GT (C&L Racer CAI, SCT SF3 + tune, MGW short shifter, GT500 swaybars, dampers, strut bar and wheels, Michelin PSS) sold |
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You might want to check or replace the VTCS actuator and hose to the vacuum block beneath the intake manifold.
With that in mind, you might want to do what I suggested above. Of course, without the flapper rod (assuming that's what you mean by "control runner"), you're not going to be able to get rid of the CEL unless you use software to do so. Even then, you won't pass emissions testing.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Did the fix for the broken plastic piece. Worked perfect. Simply bending it wasn’t enough to make contact so removed both screws and shifted by one screw hope lower down. Thanks all! |
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