How-To NATOR A Boost Leak Tester for $15

[Fatguy729]

Well, like the title says, I made a boost leak tester today. I haven't seen a How To on MSF, so I took pictures with my cell along the way... Here you go!



You will need:

3/8 inch drill bit/drill
2 inch PVC pipe cap ($1.25)
3 inch to 2 1/2 inch coupler with clamps ($6 at advanced auto parts)
Tire Valve Stem ($6 for a set of 2 at AAP)






This is how the pieces will be oriented...








First, drill a hole in the top of the 2 inch PVC cap with the 3/8 inch drill bit














Now, remove the nut for the valve stem so you can thread it into the new hole in your PVC cap. Leave the washer and the rubber washer (to create a seal)










Then, get some vice grips on the valve stem, and thread it through the hole












I actually tried to use pliers at first, but my hands weren't strong enough to hold the valve stem, and I got it a lil scratched up. Make sure you screw it in far enough so the rubber washer doesn't allow air through











Next screw that nut onto the top of the valve stem












To finish it off, Put the cap in the 3" end of the coupler, tighten it down, and you're ready to do a boost leak test!!!

To do this, remove your intake, and tighten the 2 1/2" side of the coupler on your TIP. Get an air compressor and pressurize the system.... Listen for leaks. Putting the tester on the TIP will pressurize all your boost/vacuum lines.

[Fatguy729]

Damn, why doesn't anyone sell something like this (besides the simplicity of making one)? Hell, maybe I will start... $20 plus shipping? They have flat rate boxes for $5-6... so $25 shipping included? Hmmm.... Fatguy = MSF vendor? LOL

[wankular]

haha I made one but my coupler's blue. It's also a 2.75" - 2.5". I tried the 3" but it was too big for the cap and the coupler buckled due to how much I had to tighten it.

[Fatguy729]

hmmm... I didn't have any issues with the 3", but that was the only size I could find at AAP (plus it's a quality coupler, 5 ply, nice and thick). Where did you get the 2.75"?

[wankular]

The 2.75" was the TB one from my CX Racing fmic. I ended up buying a 4" long coupler to adjust my cold pipe a little better (and ended up having to cut a 1/2" off haha). It's a bitch trying to find a 4" long reducer coupler.

[Fatguy729]

Oh Ok, rock on LOL. I bet it was hard to find something like that!

[shadesofgray19]

Originally Posted by Fatguy729 Damn, why doesn't anyone sell something like this (besides the simplicity of making one)? Hell, maybe I will start... $20 plus shipping? They have flat rate boxes for $5-6... so $25 shipping included? Hmmm.... Fatguy = MSF vendor? LOL

Not to rain on your parade, but here you go.

Boostpro.net : Products - Boost Leak Testers

[Fatguy729]

Originally Posted by shadesofgray19 Not to rain on your parade, but here you go. Boostpro.net : Products - Boost Leak Testers

SHUT UP!!! LOL... Oh well...

[bnoon]

It's OK fatguy, you still made yours instead of buying someone else's and saved some cash. And you still have one more valve stem in your pocket.

[jtspells]

Nice improvising, kinda funny our shop just spent around $1600 for a smoke machine and with one or 2 more modifications you would have a vacuum leak tester for a fraction of the price.

[Fatguy729]

Originally Posted by jtspells Nice improvising, kinda funny our shop just spent around $1600 for a smoke machine and with one or 2 more modifications you would have a vacuum leak tester for a fraction of the price.

yeah, I'm awesome LOL

[NJSPEED3]

also

Intake Leak Pressure Tester

I made my own as well lol.

[mike000g]

this came out on car mods,look it up on youtube.props to them.

[Fatguy729]

Originally Posted by mike000g this came out on car mods,look it up on youtube.props to them.

Was I supposed to understand or get something from that post?

[MSpeedzilla]

FUCKING GENIUS

[Fatguy729]

LOL glad to help!

[Speed_j23]

You sure about the 3/8 drill cuz the valve stem doesn't seem to fit.

[whos_MS3]

Originally Posted by Speed_j23 You sure about the 3/8 drill cuz the valve stem doesn't seem to fit.

3/8 bit was perfect for me. a little snug, but that's how it should be

what size is the stem u have? .453 or something like that?

[Fatguy729]

Its a tight fit but it was the perfect size when I did mine... I had to use vice grips (shown in the picture after trying to use pliers)

[Fatguy729]

Epic!

[Tommy]

Thanks for the write up.

[trdsw]

Thanks to the OP. I dont have an advanced auto parts but the local oreillys had the same exact part so I was able to follow through with making the tester. I added a boost gauge that I had laying around to mine so I could see how quickly/slowly my leak was.

[Cudarich]

Another thanks to the OP, this helped me confirm my major boost leak suspicion, found approximately where its coming from, now gotta pull my intake out and figure out the exact location.

[JDspeed6]

I bought all the supplies tonight except the metal tire valve stems. Went to 3 different places and all I can find are the rubber ones. Do you think that would work too? Imagine I'd have to drill a much larger hole.

[Fatguy729]

Originally Posted by JDspeed6 I bought all the supplies tonight except the metal tire valve stems. Went to 3 different places and all I can find are the rubber ones. Do you think that would work too? Imagine I'd have to drill a much larger hole.

I honestly dunno. I went with the metal cuz I wanted it to be sturdy and it needs to screw in tightly for a tight seal. I'm not sure how many uses you would get from the rubber kind before it started leaking.plus, with te metal kind, you screw the washer and nut down till its tight, I think the rubber kind has a set width that might not work with the PVC cap.

Originally Posted by trdsw Thanks to the OP. I dont have an advanced auto parts but the local oreillys had the same exact part so I was able to follow through with making the tester. I added a boost gauge that I had laying around to mine so I could see how quickly/slowly my leak was.

NICE!!! If I had an unused guage laying around it would be cool, but I wasn't gonna spend extra money for such a simple piece.


I just plug my AP in and monitor boost on it while I test.

[drknyte]

So once it'sinstalledhow do you operate it? Smoke or air? Sorry I`m a nub!

[Fatguy729]

Ummm air. Like the original post says

[razorscs]

For those having trouble finding a quality valve stem, places like Miner's Ace Hardware or Lowe's etc. will have valve stems, they aren't automotive but it doesn't matter, they are all metal and will hold the pressure.

[Mistersix]

Approximately how much pressure should one pressurize with?

[Fatguy729]

I usually do about 25 psi... My tune only boosts 19, so I feel that's good enough.


Side note... Even if its clamped down as much as possible, the shit factory tip usually only holds about 10 lsu before leaking or popping off. My Cobb holds like a champ.


Don't freak out though, cuz nothing on the intake side is ever pressurized during normal operation

[ABolewski]

Also, a good idea is too block off the recirc inlet on the TIP and let the BPV open to air while you pressurize. If you're running 20 PSI, and the BPV leaks at 20-24 PSI you're BPV is leaking. Just a tip.

[Stealth01]

Here's the one I built tonight to test my intake system. Not the same as a boost leak, but I'm getting air into the system post-MAF/pre-turbo, so here's my tester:



Goes right onto the MAF Housing for my ID300.

[Mistersix]

Thats a good idea too. Looks like a HDP boost leak tester.

[Fatguy729]

Originally Posted by Stealth01 Here's the one I built tonight to test my intake system. Not the same as a boost leak, but I'm getting air into the system pre-MAF, so here's my tester Goes right onto the MAF Housing for my ID300.

I assume you meant pre turbo LOL

[Stealth01]

Originally Posted by Fatguy729 I assume you meant pre turbo LOL

Yes, but being retarded I sometimes mis-type.

[Tattooboost]

Just joined on here. Thanks for the info and pics built one of these today and was super simple.

[yaeger101]

so do u block off the bpv off the tip or leave that hooked up

[Ace Protege]

to those wondering, you can use a rubber valve stem. I've had mine, exactly the same as the OP's for a couple years with a rubber stem and its perfectly fine. If they can seal a tire/wheel at 35+ psi they can hold 25~ no problem. As far as drilling the hole, start with a 3/8 bit and see how it fits, I can't remember what size I used. it just pulls through and has a ridge that seals it.

[Mandinca]

Originally Posted by ABolewski Also, a good idea is too block off the recirc inlet on the TIP and let the BPV open to air while you pressurize. If you're running 20 PSI, and the BPV leaks at 20-24 PSI you're BPV is leaking. Just a tip.

I'm also a noob at this kind of thing. I have the standard TIP, no mods to the car.
How do you suggest I block off the recirc inlet....which I am assuming is the smaller pipe on the TIP (is it?).
What do you mean "let the BPV open to air". Is that the valve on the cold pipe between the TMIC and TB ?

Thanks

[ABloodBrother]

Making one of these tomorrow. Thanks op