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 Old 12-05-2008, 08:22 PM   #1
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Default How to Service your Forge BPV

The Forge BPV requires periodic servicing to function correctly.
I have attached the pdf "Inspecting and rebuilding the Forge Motorsports Diverter Valve" produced by Forge, that explains how to test the valve to make sure it is not leaking past the o-ring seals, and how to service it.
Patty (a Forge employee), recommends performing the "pen test" (described in the pdf) every other oil change.
I recommend not to use a pen, it is too unstable, I used my finger it was easier...(if your finger fits)
I discovered that Forge Motorsports use Mobil Mobilith SHC 220 when they build these valves.
Though you can use other full synthetic bearing grease. I used Mobil 1 Synthetic, it is the same 220 viscosity.

If you don't service the Forge valve, it can end up causing you problems like this:

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...-problems.html
http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...g-related.html

I would recommend anyone who buys a new Forge BPV to open it up, remove the piston and coat the outside of the piston (the fat part) with a very thin layer of grease. Also make sure there is plenty of grease between the two o-rings that seal the piston, this is the critical area, it should have a solid layer of grease, level with the tops of the o-rings.
However, you do not want to over grease the valve, basically any excess grease that gets below the O rings will migrate out of the valve when it recirculates, causing grease to end up in your recirc. tube.
Before you reassemble the valve to install on the car, you want to regrease the top o-ring too, the one that seals with the cap.

On my Forge, there was some grease between the two piston sealing O rings, but it was not a solid layer, there were spots where there was hardly any grease. Also there was no grease at all on the outside of the fat part of the piston, it was dry as a bone to the touch.
It gave me problems on initial install, I pulled it and performed "the pen test" described in the pdf
The valve failed the pen test, it was leaking due to lack of grease and was causing running problems, once I re-greased it properly the valve passed the pen test and is no longer leaking.

I do want to clarify one thing though, to pass the pen test the pdf says "The piston should remain in place until you remove your finger from the nipple, at which point the piston will travel back", this is not entirely true.
I believe this was written for the weakest spring, the green spring, which we don't even receive.
It would be better to say, the valve should not fully close until you remove your finger from the nipple.
My failed test, the piston came fully closed immediately, when I then took my finger off the nipple, the valve did not move.
My pass test, the valve looked closed but on closer inspection it was not seated there was probably 1/16" gap, after taking my finger off the nipple, the valve snapped closed the rest of the way. (That was using the blue spring, no shims)
To do the pen test I would recommend using the weakest spring you have, with no shims.
If it passes then go ahead and install the spring/shim(s) you want to run.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf forge valve_service(1).pdf (108.1 KB, 3446 views)
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Last edited by FreeFlyFreak; 12-24-2008 at 12:05 PM.
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 Old 05-19-2009, 05:55 PM   #2
 
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good info happened to me a while back!
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 Old 05-23-2009, 10:37 AM   #3
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How often should we do this?
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 Old 05-24-2009, 11:13 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Monkey_3 View Post
How often should we do this?
I read on another forum here pat @ forge said he does his every other oil change.
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 Old 06-03-2009, 06:34 PM   #5
 
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good to know.
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 Old 06-10-2009, 07:50 PM   #6
 
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well i know what i need to do this weekend!
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 Old 06-23-2009, 09:02 PM   #7
 
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Just want to post this here. After changing my spring/shim combo around a few times, i noticed I broke the rubber o-ring. I sent an e-mail to Forge to ask them for a replacement and they responded promptly and asked me for me mailing address. Within 2 weeks or so I received a full re-charge kit (a few o-rings, the red grease, and a piston) all free of charge. Say what you want about the Forge valve - but their customer service is top notch in my book.
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 Old 07-03-2009, 07:49 PM   #8
 
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I'm going to do this tomorrow ... would white lithium grease be fine for this job?
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 Old 09-25-2009, 10:31 PM   #9
 
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NICE INFO
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 Old 09-27-2009, 06:21 PM   #10
 
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stupid question but where exactly do the shims go? mine i just added shim today after oil change so now its blue +1
under top cap, then spring, under spring is shim, then is the plunger type piece
is that right??
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 Old 09-27-2009, 09:11 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by jax ms3gt View Post
stupid question but where exactly do the shims go? mine i just added shim today after oil change so now its blue +1
under top cap, then spring, under spring is shim, then is the plunger type piece
is that right??
You don't put a shim under the cap, any shims go under the spring, in the piston.
A shim under the cap can block vacuum from the nipple in the cap
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 Old 12-03-2009, 01:57 PM   #12
 
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What grease should we buy and where? Thanks.
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 Old 12-14-2009, 04:48 PM   #13
 
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just use a light lithium grease - any parts store
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 Old 12-14-2009, 09:35 PM   #14
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Good to know info.

What is the "shim"? All I see is a "spring" a "piston" and the casing or what have you. The bottom picture has this plus what appear to be two gaskets.

Where / what is this "shim" ppl are speaking of?? Oh and does it come with different "springs" and is this what is referred to as the different "settings"??
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 Old 04-04-2010, 05:28 PM   #15
 
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Does anyone know if we have to service the Turbosmart BPV's as well? If so, is it the same at the Forge? I don't remember putting any "shims" in it or the package even having any.
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 Old 04-05-2010, 08:07 AM   #16
 
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Update: I tried to service my Turbosmart BPV last night. Sure enough there was no grease on the piston inside it. But I couldn't find the O-ring area's you mentioned. I'm guessing it's just a different design for the Forge BPV. Also, the spring on this Turbosmart was super strong and has really heavy resistance. So much so that it would always fail the "pen test" you mention. Not sure what to do or where to go from here. But servicing it did make a noticeable butt dyno difference this morning!
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 Old 05-25-2010, 01:41 AM   #17
 
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Good to know, thanks
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 Old 06-22-2011, 12:32 AM   #18
 
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Is it normal for it to flutter more at lower rpms after it's serviced? Because Mine does now and it makes me nervous
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 Old 07-28-2011, 02:02 PM   #19
 
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My Version one comes in Saturday/Monday-ish


CHING!
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 Old 07-28-2011, 04:04 PM   #20
 
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Good info!!
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 Old 08-21-2011, 10:58 AM   #21
 
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bump for good info and noobs
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 Old 08-21-2011, 11:20 AM   #22
 
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Also I didn't see it mentioned in here, but for the grease use the Mobile one grease (not to be confused with mobile 1 engine oil).
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 Old 10-14-2011, 09:15 AM   #23
 
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daym i havent maintenanced my bpv for almost 20k miles.

opened it up and it was still pretty fine. still greased up but since i bought a new can of grease i just wiped all the old grease off and regreased everything again.

lol now to remind myself to do this more often.
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 Old 11-05-2011, 12:24 AM   #24
 
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Noob question here; I read on a CX-7 forum that its OK to use motor oil, is this true? I just picked up a used Forge BPV for $50 and when I took it apart is was bone dry. Since I wont be able to make it to a Autozone for a couple of days, I wanted to know if I could use some 5W-30 as a temp fix until I can get some grease. Only reason why I want to do this is because I cant stand buying parts for the car and having to wait for to install it. That and I want everyone to hear my zelda sword coming out from under my hood
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 Old 11-05-2011, 04:34 AM   #25
 
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Do not use motor oil. It will cause problems

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 Old 11-05-2011, 07:40 AM   #26
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I need to service mine. Been like 10k miles! Good writeup!
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 Old 01-16-2013, 09:11 PM   #27
 
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Time has come for me maintain the bpv. Running it since 14K miles.
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 Old 01-26-2013, 03:13 PM   #28
 
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Its fairly easy, found this vid and may help others who aren't mechanically inclined.

Not my vid.

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 Old 02-05-2013, 02:44 PM   #29
 
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will this work?
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 Old 02-10-2013, 10:36 PM   #30
 
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Should of read a little more on the Forge bpv v1.Never had the ping sound the moment it was put on. (blue spring no shim) I used the above grease, which now i see isn't a good idea. I tore the o-ring, the upper one in the cap, and broke a bolt off in the cold pipe this morning ;/, stupid STL weather. Got the service kit coming from Forge, should i use the grease it comes with, the Mobil stuff, or use some other grease?
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 Old 02-10-2013, 10:47 PM   #31
 
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I have been using synthetic paintball marker lube on my valves for years and thousands of miles, scant an issue.

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 Old 02-15-2013, 12:47 PM   #32
 
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 Old 02-16-2013, 10:55 PM   #33
 
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Just did it for the first time. Easiest maintenance so far in 50k miles
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 Old 11-24-2013, 07:10 AM   #34
 
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Default Servicing Turbosmart BPV

Only had my Speed3 for a year. Serviced mine yesterday, it was a little dry. Also for others the O-ring in this valve is in the bottom. (Were the piston seats). Hope this helps. Also while I was in there I did manually strectch the spring .25 or 1/4 in. and now when measuring boost I can consistently hold 17psi vs 14psi before the service and peak boost 21psi vs. 16psi. Hope this helps.
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 Old 11-25-2013, 06:32 PM   #35
 
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Originally Posted by GOAT View Post
Only had my Speed3 for a year. Serviced mine yesterday, it was a little dry. Also for others the O-ring in this valve is in the bottom. (Were the piston seats). Hope this helps. Also while I was in there I did manually strectch the spring .25 or 1/4 in. and now when measuring boost I can consistently hold 17psi vs 14psi before the service and peak boost 21psi vs. 16psi. Hope this helps.
If you bought used and didn't get different springs, you can buy a kit on Forge's website with the 4 different spring pressures, in addition to shims, that can be used to adjust for your particular boost level. I'm running the yellow with no shims right now and can hold 18.5 PSI without a problem. You can also get the service kit if you're missing O-rings, or if you need another piston.
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 Old 12-03-2013, 06:25 PM   #36
 
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I just bought the Forge rebuild kit for the gen1 bpv (ninja swords). It came with a piston and 2 O-rings. I was expecting 4 O-rings. Unfortunately both of the O-rings that were included were too small.
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 Old 12-03-2013, 06:33 PM   #37
 
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Originally Posted by IMASA View Post
I just bought the Forge rebuild kit for the gen1 bpv (ninja swords). It came with a piston and 2 O-rings. I was expecting 4 O-rings. Unfortunately both of the O-rings that were included were too small.
I assume you need the large O-ring where the cap seals to the valve? I shredded that one to on mine. I also ordered the service kit..

But I called Forge and told them my problem..apparently it has happened to a lot of people.and they sent me a new large one for free in an envelope. Hope this helps.
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How to Service your Forge BPV This thread Refback 08-10-2014 06:02 AM
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