HOW TO- Transmission Shift Fork Replacement

[WetzMS3]

Transmission Shift Fork Replacement How-To
This write up was done on a 2007 Speed6 transmission, but should apply to all generations, with slight variations possible.
Basically, I followed the factory transmission manual that has been posted on this fine site. I’ll attach it here to the write up as well for easy reference. If you’re comfortable with a shop manual and a wrench, it’s not all that hard, but pictures help some people. If shop manuals and tools scare you, just look at the pretty pictures and ask someone else to do this job for you. As with any project this size, keep plenty of bags and sharpies handy to label things as they are removed. Store them safely for re-assembly.
Tool List:
-Bags/Sharpie
-3/8” and 1/2" drive ratchets
-14mm wrench/socket
-17mm wrench/socket
-23mm wrench/socket
-12mm wrench/socket
-21mm wrench/socket
-6mm Allen Socket
-27mm Allen Socket
-Breaker bar for 27mm Socket
-Snap Ring Pliers
-Prybar
-Rubber Mallet
-Hammer
-Pin Punch Set, 11/64” specifically.


Step 1:
Set up the SST stand. Or, layout some cardboard on the ground or work bench.


Step 2:
Remove the Drain Plug and Oil Level Plug.
Drain Plug:

Oil Level Plug:


Step 3:
Leave the Neutral Switch and Back Up switch in place. Too rusty to want to fuck with.


Step 4:
Remove the Reverse Idler Shaft Retaining Bolt. 17mm


Step 5:
Remove the Straight Pin. 14mm


Step 6:
Remove Shift Push Pin and Select Push Pin.
Shift Push Pin 15/16” or 23mm:

Select Push Pin 27mm:


Step 7:
Remove the Shift Selector and Shift Component. 12mm. Remove the (2) 12mm bolts that hold the selector bracket in place. I removed all 5 bolts, just to keep them all together. Put the trans in N, and pull the shift component itself out.



Step 8:
Remove the sealing cap, detent spring seat, detent spring, and detent ball. 4 Locations. 6mm Allen Key





Step 9:
Remove the Sealing Caps. 6mm and 27mm Allen Key.



Step 10:
Remove Transaxle case fixing bolts. 12mm. It may be helpful to hit these with degreaser, at least the inner bolts. 6 interior bolts, 13 exterior bolts.




Step 11:
Stretch the snap ring of the primary shaft rear bearing and secondary shaft rear bearing at the sealing cap hole, and remove the transaxle case.
This shit gets a bit tricky. I ended up holding the secondary snap ring loose while starting to pry the case off on that side. Then the same side for the primary side. If you happen to be doing this on a bench or stand, you can pull the primary shaft out slightly from the clutch housing side, while stretching the snap rings. Gravity seemed to help and do that slightly while the trans was on the ground for me. If stretching the snap rings separately, as I did, be very careful to not pry the case off too far without both snap rings stretched.
Sorry, I failed to get pictures of this operation, as I needed both of my hands and all 3 legs.


Step 12:
Make sure the Oil Pass is still in place, this one fell out as I pulled the cover off, and it took me minute or two to figure out it’s orientation.


Step 13:
Remove the 5th/6th shift fork retaining bolt and the Reverse shift fork retaining bolt. 12mm



Step 14:
Remove the reverse control rod.
[IMG] http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/y...psaruykoab.jpg [IMG]

Step 15:
Remove the 5th/6th control rod.


Step 16:
Remove the reverse shift fork and 5th/6th shift fork.


Step 17:
Remove the 3rd/4th shift fork spring pin using a pin punch. I found 11/64” to work well.


Step 18:
Remove the 1st/2nd shift fork retaining bolt. 12mm


Step 19:
Remove the 1st/2nd control rod.


Step 20:
Remove the 3rd/4th control rod end (A and B) spring pin using a pin punch. 11/64” again.


Step 21:
Remove the 3rd/4th control rod (B), 3rd/4th control rod end (B), and the 3rd/4th shift fork.
NOTE: THE ASSEMBLY OF THESE CONTROL ROD ENDS AND THEIR COMPONENTS IS PROBABLY THE MOST COMPLICATED APRT OF THE JOB. PAY ATTENTION TO THE ORIENTATION OF NOT ONLY THE RODS, BUT HOW EACH PART ALIGNS TO ANOTHER. TAKE EXTRA PICTURES FOR REFERENCE. READING AHEAD AND OBSERVING PICTURES MAY HELP EXPLAIN THINGS.



Step 22:
Remove the snap ring, and then remove the counter lever pivot.


Step 23:
Remove the 3rd/4th control rod (A).


Step 24:
Remove the 1st/2nd shift fork.

Step 25:
Remove the counter lever.


Take a break for a beer.


Give the puppy some fresh rubber.


This concludes the teardown portion. Installing replacement shift forks is a simple as doing all of that in reverse. As noted above, the most complicated part of this is the 3rd/4th gear control rods. I’m going to skip pictures on the install end, since there are plenty of pictures above. I will include tq. specs on the assembly end.
Before installing new shift forks, be sure to measure the shift fork pads and clutch hub sleeves for each for to verify clearance is within spec. Inspect the pad surfaces on the new pads as well. There were a few nicks on one pad used here.
Specs:
1st/2nd and 3rd/4th- 0.10-0.50mm
5th/6th clearance- 0.10-1.50mm
Reverse- 0.15-0.41mm

Step 26:
Install the 1st/2nd shift fork.

Step 27:
Install the counter lever and 3rd/4th control rod (A). The slots on the shift fork, and control rod end should be close to aligned.

Step 28:
Install the counter lever, counter lever pivot, and snap ring. The outer side of the counter lever should be below the control rod end (A).

Step 29:
Install the 3rd/4th shift fork and then install the 1st/2nd control rod with the ball groove oriented towards the outside of the case, aligning the bolt hole with the shift fork.

Step 30:
Install the 3rd/4th control rod end (B) so that in engages the counter lever as it did before disassembly. Refer to pictures above in Step 21, and any additional pictures you’ve taken.

Step 31:
Install the 3rd/4th control rod with the ball groove facing the outside of the case, aligning pin holes with the shift forks.

Step 32:
Tap in the 3rd/4th control rod end (A and B) spring pins.

Step 33:
Tap in the 3rd/4th shift fork spring pin.

Step 34:
Install the 1st/2nd shift fork retaining bolt. (11.6-17.3 ft/lbs)

Step 35:
Install the 5th/6th and reverse shift forks.

Step 36:
Install the 5th/6th control rod and reverse control rod being careful of the ball groove direction.

Step 37:
Install the shift fork retaining bolts for the 5th/6th and Reverse shift forks. (11.6-17.3 ft/lbs)

Step 38:
Clean and reinstall the detent ball, detent spring, detent spring seat, and sealing caps to the clutch housing. (11.6-21.4 ft/lbs)

Step 39:
Make sure the oil pass referenced in Step 12 is properly seated.

Step 40:
Remove all old RTV from and clean the transaxle case and clutch housing. Apply a light coat of new Red RTV to both the clutch housing and transaxle case.

Step 41:
Place the transaxle case on the clutch housing.

Step 42:
Install an M8x1.25 bolt into the secondary shaft (smaller sealing cap hole).

Step 43:
Stretch the secondary shaft snap ring and pull up on the M8x1.25 bolt. Fix the snap ring into the secondary shaft bearing groove, and remove the M8 bolt.

Step 44:
Stretch the primary shaft snap ring, and push the primary shaft in from the clutch housing side. Fix the snap ring into the bearing groove.

Step 45:
Install the housing bolts into the case and housing. (17.5-25.9 ft/lbs)

Step 46:
Install the sealing caps with a thin layer of red RTV.

Step 47:
Install the reverse idler shaft retaining bolt. (51.4-66.6 ft/lbs)

Step 48:
Clean and apply a coat of sealant to the shift component case and transaxle case.

Step 49:
Install the select lever set and shift component to the transaxle case. (11.0-16.4 ft/lbs)

Step 50:
Install the straight pin. (15.5-28.7 ft/lbs)

Step 51:
Install shift push pin. (15.2-28.1 ft/lbs)

Step 52:
Install select push pin. (15.2-28.1 ft/lbs)

Step 53:
Install drain and fill plugs. (20.3-37.5 ft/lbs)

Shoutout to @silvapain; for help with specialty tools needed, @Micha; for making me do this project, and @xfeejayx; for selling him the transmission and drinking with me while I painted it.
Hopefully this is helpful to those replacing shift forks, as well as others diagnosing transmission issues in the future. If you have any questions, or helpful pointer, feel free to post them up!
I will make an attempt to attach all of the pictures as well, on the off chance they disappear from the thread.

[Micha]

I <3 you @WetzMS3;. Some mostly homo.

[dan7225]

sticky? @Raider;

[silvapain]

You want to help keep the trans in gear on the cheap? Stick a couple washers behind those shift detent springs.

I did that on my trans when I tore it apart and replaced the shift forks. It has helped my trans stay in 2nd under heavy braking during autocross, when it would pop out before.

[WetzMS3]

Originally Posted by silvapain You want to help keep the trans in gear on the cheap? Stick a couple washers behind those shift detent springs. I did that on my trans when I tore it apart and replaced the shift forks. It has helped my trans stay in 2nd under heavy braking during autocross, when it would pop out before.

Inside the the spring seat or on top of it?

Any recollection of the size of washers you used?

This could be a very quick fix or stop gap for some of us.

[silvapain]

Between the spring and the seat. I want to say 4 or 5 mm. If you still have them out, take the seat to the local parts store and double check.

[802MS3]

Awesome write-up dude!

[jkms3]

Fantastic write up! Thank you!!

[iLLin]

Photobucket can suck it. All credits go to @WetzMS3;

[kdotspeed]

NVM see the added file

[Johnybeas]

delete me