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| MazdaSpeed 3 - How-To's MazdaSpeed 3 - How-To's - Want help out fellow owners? Post How-To's to simplify future installations for others. |
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__________________ SyntheticAtmosphere '06 Speed6 Whitewater Pearl (COBB AP v2, CS s2 SRI/TIP, Autotech HPFP, Cp-e RMM&RDM, Fidanza/LuK, homebrew Testpipe&OCC) next...meth habit If it feels good, do it...Even if you shouldn't! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Fucking hell, coming from my old car I was assuming it wouldnt have been that bad; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHkKlp2g3-w
__________________ 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 GT - Cobb SRI, HKS BOV, Cobb AP V2, Sure RMM, EBC Front Rotors, Hawk HPS, ROCA PMM, Yokohama YK580, SenSen Rear shocks Planned: Cobb TIP, Autotech HPFP, MattD RMM, Koni Street Shocks/struts |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Replacing the filters didn't end up being as bad as I thought it would be. Cleaning all the crap out of the housing did...don't go 76k miles without changing your cabin air filters! I ended up removing some of the driver-side dash panels, then went on the hunt to eliminate as many squeaks and rattles as I could identify.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Did this today. Just hit 70,000 miles and after getting my car back from shipping company from Guam to VA I could notice a smell. Fixed Unfortunately I didn't disconnect the battery and now my HVAC air temp is displayed in Celsius and when I switch to Ambient temp it is "---" No idea how to fix that, or reset cabin air temp to F* Any suggestions? edit- also remote no longer locks and unlocks the doors... wtf did i do wrong..
__________________ CP-E HPFpump™ CP-E 3" SS Cat Back Exhaust System CP-E 3" SS Downpipe System CP-E Rear Engine Mount CP-E XcelNANO™ Air Intake CP-E Nviscid™ Pipe CP-E Triple Gauge Pod Cobb AccessPORTv2 Cobb Anti Sway Bar(rear) Corksport TMIC PERM TUNED Forge bpv Eibach ProKit Prosport Wideband AFR Boost Oil Temp Oil Pressure JBR Shift Knob SunTek CarbonXP 30% around 2002 Mazda Protege5:AEM sri KYB gr2's DDM hid RIP |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Did you unhook the neg terminal for a little bit afterwards? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I didn't remove the negative battery terminal when I did mine. Recheck and redo all the connections in the fuse box. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah, disconnect the negative on the battery, press the brake pedal to drain the residual charge and then reconnect. If it's still occurring, I would unhook the battery again, then look at your connections on your passenger junction box, see if any pins got bent...etc.
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watch this explains how to change from Celsius to Fahrenheit.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score That video is annoying and I've viewed it before.. holding those buttons didn't do anything for me. Thank you tho, I'm not bashing your help.. just the guy who made that video lol I will disconnect battery today, I got busy yesterday and didn't get to it... pretty much Michigan game came on and I had to watch them lose their chance at a bowl game.. ![]() I'll update after disconnecting battery and hope it works
__________________ CP-E HPFpump™ CP-E 3" SS Cat Back Exhaust System CP-E 3" SS Downpipe System CP-E Rear Engine Mount CP-E XcelNANO™ Air Intake CP-E Nviscid™ Pipe CP-E Triple Gauge Pod Cobb AccessPORTv2 Cobb Anti Sway Bar(rear) Corksport TMIC PERM TUNED Forge bpv Eibach ProKit Prosport Wideband AFR Boost Oil Temp Oil Pressure JBR Shift Knob SunTek CarbonXP 30% around 2002 Mazda Protege5:AEM sri KYB gr2's DDM hid RIP |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score first a big thanks to the OP for the video. so an hour and a half and a sore elbow and ankle later and the job is done. but i was hoping someone could help me out with my retardation @ 2:02 in the video, he pulls on that plug thing and i couldn't figure out how to get that bitch out. i tried pushing on it i tried "squishing it" with my fingers i tried digging a screwdriver in at various angles...eventually it came out with a decent amount of force applied by pulling on the panel right now the panel is back in place and the plug is sitting at an angle holding the panel on. it will probably stay that way for a while, but i'd bet a good passenger kick is all it will take to come loose i know i'm an idiot for even having to ask but assuming it isn't broken, can someone explain to me how that stupid plug thing is supposed to work? and how i might get its ass back in the way it was meant to? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I just did this and it was a huge PITA. While I was down there I took some close-up pics of the inside of the air box so you can see the grooves where the top air filter slides up into. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to replayreb For This Useful Post: | craig busskohl (01-16-2018) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Did this a few months ago, good thing because the filters were original (134k miles on them) but damn that job was a pain in the ass. Not looking forward to doing it again it 20-30k miles. Nice walkthrough! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I changed mine in May and come on, guys, it honestly wasn't THAT bad. Tougher than it should be to swap a simple cabin filter, absolutely; but people make it out to be worse than it truly is...it's more tedious than difficult, IMO. Maybe wear long sleeves, though...I scraped up my forearms in a couple of places. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score At 82k miles im betting mine is either original or hasn't been changed in a long time. I'll be adding this to my to-do list. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score For sure; it's definitely absurd that you have to drop the glovebox and unplug/remove the fuse tray. I don't ever use the radio, myself, so for me it was just a matter of resetting the clock after everything was buttoned back up. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score thanks so much for the video. but what a PIA for something that is a mntc. item?! One minor deviation on my 2007- the filter cover had 6 screws if you count the 2 for the finned sensor that is attached to it. can skip that and leave it on i suppose, but then just one more set of wires to wrangle around- sheesh! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score wished i'd seen this photos before the job, but felt around in there while all tangled up in the box and could sort of feel what it looked like....thanks! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks for the video. Much appreciated. This video helps as well as it shows filter orientation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bh0ygdeDvPc I used a $8.50 (delivered) ULTRA-POWER 24482 from Rockauto. Seems like decent quality but no instructions. First filter change at 150k miles. This is a bizarre design with one filter sitting on another. What? Have a scanner to clear the CEL P606 if you dont wanna disconnect the battery before doing this. Have a vacuum to suck out leaves from filter compartment. Change the certainly-dead-by-now light bulb in the glove box while you're at it. For me the worst part was figuring out how to align these filters in the box and getting the screw at 2 o'clock on the access door. Its hard to see where it goes. Dropped that bastard behind the carpet 4 times. Here is a pic of the door with the 4 screws installed. mazda cabin airfilter doorI think this is how it fits back in... https://youtu.be/qniekFZ3D-U MAZDA instructional drawing: Last edited by Lex2007; 01-01-2020 at 05:38 PM. |
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LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/forum/f33/replacing-cabin-air-filters-22845/ | ||||
| Posted By | For | Type | Date | |
| Posted a reply in another threat about changing oil filters reminded me of how dirty my Air Cabin filter was. Here's a reminder to change it every so often. WARNING: Yuck. : mazda | This thread | Refback | 07-26-2013 05:49 PM | |
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