cp-e stage 2 RMM Review/walkthrough

[Stingray69]

Just put this mount on yesterday. Got a chance to drive about 50 miles today. So far I love this mount. I had a conventional 80 duro mount before and this is a night and day difference. Very little vibes but seems very solid at take off and shifts. Mine came black anodized and all the small bolts were loctited in very well. I took two out but they were done so well I didn't mess with the others. Seems like they have listened to the problems and resolved them. I would highly recommend it.

[derek13p]

Originally Posted by www.cp-e.com There's no be all end all mod. Yes the stock mounts are pretty flimsy, this will help prevent most of the engine movement. Just keep in mind that there are 2 other mounts. You stiffen one up movement will be transfered to the others. There's no real long term testing on this, BUT I think @Grumpyjap has gone about 10-15k miles on this including some track use without any issue. I'm sure he'll chime in with his findings.

I've had mine on my car for about 20-25k miles and it's about gone now. I asked someone about getting a replacement but was told I should upgrade my side mounts because that was probably the culprit. Well, got the stiffest JBR TMM and PMM and my engine is definitely still moving around when i punch the gas or let off the gas (feels like a stock mount again).
I'm kind of hard on my car most of the time so with rough driving and launches I would say it needs replacing every 25k miles i guess?
I really loved this product though and would recomend it any day. If i could get another one I would right now, but just invested in a few other cp-e products so cant afford it :/ just have to go easy on my car till i can replace it

[Nliiitend1]

Originally Posted by derek13p I've had mine on my car for about 20-25k miles and it's about gone now. I asked someone about getting a replacement but was told I should upgrade my side mounts because that was probably the culprit. Well, got the stiffest JBR TMM and PMM and my engine is definitely still moving around when i punch the gas or let off the gas (feels like a stock mount again). I'm kind of hard on my car most of the time so with rough driving and launches I would say it needs replacing every 25k miles i guess? I really loved this product though and would recomend it any day. If i could get another one I would right now, but just invested in a few other cp-e products so cant afford it :/ just have to go easy on my car till i can replace it

If your bushing is messed up, just get it replaced under the Lifetime Warranty.

If the bushing isn't messed up, I don't understand how it could be considered "about gone now"...

[derek13p]

Originally Posted by Nliiitend1 If your bushing is messed up, just get it replaced under the Lifetime Warranty. If the bushing isn't messed up, I don't understand how it could be considered "about gone now"...

well I've peeked under the car at the mount and it doesn't look cracked or anything but as far as it being "gone", I guess I just mean worn out?
All I know is when I first got it, it was stiff as hell and I liked it, now it feels like how it did before replacing it(well, not THAT bad, but close). And even still after replacing the two side mounts.
Once I get under there when installing the cpe dp though I will take a closer look at it and see if there are any cracks in the bushing that I couldn't see w/o the car jacked up.
If its not cracked and its just worn out would that still be warranty-able?

[Nliiitend1]

It's not like the EPDM turns to jelly as it "wears."

If the rubber is in good shape, then I imagine so is the mount.

If you're really having as big of an issue as you say, I can only assume the bushing has been compromised. A compromised bushing falls under the warranty,

[derek13p]

Ah well I don't know that much about the materials and all that. Ill try and inspect it closer today or tomorrow then. Thanks for that info man.

[www.cp-e.com]

Is the actual engine moving? Try and grab a buddy and have him rev the engine to see if it rocks at all. It should be minimal movement. Although the best way to test is under load, do you happen to have a gopro and a small flashlight you can secure under the hood while doing a pull or 2?

[08.5MS3]

I have all 3 cp-e mounts. While not an effective measurement, when I try and move the engine with my hands, the entire car moves. Same can be said on start-up and revving.

[SeeMeGovan]

Kinda changing the subject back to OP's install, deal. Red loctite is the way to go, but with all this mm swapping you guys have done esp. passenger & driver, any problems getting bolts loose/heat required?

I wouldn't risk putting blue on but red has pissed me off in the past trying to get heat in tight spots...

[morbiddk]

Great write-up and review, definitely on the top of the list when the money starts becoming available.

[fishdonotbounce]

I was going to start a new thread but I will just post here. I just installed the stage 2 after my stage 1 bushing separated after 60k miles of abuse. I also have the other two CP-e mounts. The car feels even better than when my stage 1 was good. Exactly as the OP stated in his review. Kudos to CP-e for doing such a great job.

[tc0308]

Originally Posted by Govank Kinda changing the subject back to OP's install, deal. Red loctite is the way to go, but with all this mm swapping you guys have done esp. passenger & driver, any problems getting bolts loose/heat required? I wouldn't risk putting blue on but red has pissed me off in the past trying to get heat in tight spots...

I was wondering the same thing. Have you found any answers out? I am installing my stage 2 mount tomorrow, and I bought blue since I want the option of taking the mount out if required. Is blue not strong enough? the CP-e mount states to torque to 85 lbs-in while blue holds to ~110?.

[hnda etr]

Originally Posted by Nliiitend1 Just a heads up: Several of us that have installed this mount found that after a few days a few of the the bushing retaining screws had started to work themselves loose. A little blue Loctite solved the issue.

hmmm.. thanks for the heads up! too bad i didn't read this thread before installing mine this afternoon...

Originally Posted by CWP_MS3 First mod. Wife is unhappy. She'll get over it...

LOL!! my girl knows not to complain... but we're not married... I'll have to make sure she knows that not complaining about my car is a term for getting married lol

Originally Posted by nusihb I have had this mount for awhile... the 'dogbone' has different size of 'bushings' on each side, on mine (which was supposedly reversed due to a manufacturing mistake) I ended up with the smaller 'bushing' facing down. From the pics I seen in this thread I wonder if I f-d up after all and turned it the wrong way

I wouldn't worry about it too much, but if it worries you, fix it...

Originally Posted by www.cp-e.com There's no be all end all mod. Yes the stock mounts are pretty flimsy, this will help prevent most of the engine movement. Just keep in mind that there are 2 other mounts. You stiffen one up movement will be transfered to the others. There's no real long term testing on this, BUT I think Grumpyjap has gone about 10-15k miles on this including some track use without any issue. I'm sure he'll chime in with his findings.

www.cp-e.com I just replaced my original 3/4 year old Street Unit 2 piece mount (in great condition too) with this stage 2 and I gotta say I love this mount!

Question though, I'm looking to hear what CPE has to say about the issue Nliiitend1 mentioned above - about the bushing retaining bolts working loose... Am I going to need to crawl under the car again and take the mount out to loktite it?

ALSO - Your instructions need fixing... Page 2 ends at "start engine" and then goes right into the install on page 3. Big issue though, is what @nusihb encountered - no instruction on whether the larger size "bushing" goes down or up - you need to identify which way the horizontal mount goes. Also, various spelling issues...

[www.cp-e.com]

Originally Posted by hnda etr hmmm.. thanks for the heads up! too bad i didn't read this thread before installing mine this afternoon... LOL!! my girl knows not to complain... but we're not married... I'll have to make sure she knows that not complaining about my car is a term for getting married lol I wouldn't worry about it too much, but if it worries you, fix it... www.cp-e.com I just replaced my original 3/4 year old Street Unit 2 piece mount (in great condition too) with this stage 2 and I gotta say I love this mount! Question though, I'm looking to hear what CPE has to say about the issue Nliiitend1 mentioned above - about the bushing retaining bolts working loose... Am I going to need to crawl under the car again and take the mount out to loktite it? ALSO - Your instructions need fixing... Page 2 ends at "start engine" and then goes right into the install on page 3. Big issue though, is what @nusihb encountered - no instruction on whether the larger size "bushing" goes down or up - you need to identify which way the horizontal mount goes. Also, various spelling issues...

Glad you like it. Let us know how you like it a few months down the road too. As far as the mount goes, it's always logo side down

[hnda etr]

Originally Posted by www.cp-e.com Glad you like it. Let us know how you like it a few months down the road too. As far as the mount goes, it's always logo side down

What about the issue with the bolts coming loose?

Sent from my giant i317 Pocket Monster

[El_Diablo]

Red locktite & done.... hell, my front tow plate is red locktited on, haha.

[tc0308]

Will red give you any issues if you need to remove the mount? The package stated you need to heat the red to 500 degrees to break the bond

[dubtastic]

Originally Posted by El_Diablo Red locktite & done.... hell, my front tow plate is red locktited on, haha.

Can someone explain the diff. between the colored loctites? If you use the most bad boy loctite does that mean you wont be able to use regular hand tools?

[El_Diablo]

Red is recommended that you heat to remove for larger bolts but not entirely necessary. Personally, I’ve never had an issue removing anything with hand tools with red loctite but it holds great.

[SeeMeGovan]

Originally Posted by dubtastic Can someone explain the diff. between the colored loctites? If you use the most bad boy loctite does that mean you wont be able to use regular hand tools?

For smaller bolts, say like M5 and smaller, you start to run the risk of breaking bolts if you red loctite them in and just torque them loose with no heat. Red is quite strong but I've personally never put red on a tiny bolt. I put blue on an M6 the other day that had fallen out of a fuel line bracket but I would have used red if I had some.

Sent from my big-ass phone.

[Sum1UDidntC]

I used blue and torqued down.... so far so good!

[hnda etr]

Curious as to why no response from cpe about this issue...

Sent from my giant i317 Pocket Monster

[CWP_MS3]

Originally Posted by hnda etr LOL!! my girl knows not to complain... but we're not married... I'll have to make sure she knows that not complaining about my car is a term for getting married lol

LMFAO... That was LONG ago when I typed that, and she has WAY more things to bitch about now, as you can see from my signature. She's good about not bitching much though.

Originally Posted by tc0308 Will red give you any issues if you need to remove the mount? The package stated you need to heat the red to 500 degrees to break the bond

No they will not. Red is what is put on the bolts from the factory, and you will see it in the threads when you pull the bolts out to replace your RMM. Use red, but don't go cray with it. A little goes a long way.

[www.cp-e.com]

Originally Posted by hnda etr What about the issue with the bolts coming loose? Sent from my giant i317 Pocket Monster

There were a few isolated incidents with the bolts coming loose for the bushing cover. It shouldn't be an issue anymore.

Originally Posted by tc0308 Will red give you any issues if you need to remove the mount? The package stated you need to heat the red to 500 degrees to break the bond

You shouldn't have to remove the cover for the bushing. cp-e will only remove the cover if the bushing needs to be replaced.

[HKchucksta]

I just received and mounted my CP-e Stage 2 RMM last night! I got the anodized black version, so I thought I'd post up some pics since OP posted pics of the silver colored one.

When I first took it out of the box, I was (pleasantly) surprised at how meat-y and solid it was. Great craftsmanship, CP-e! There is a bluish-purple tint to it if you take a closer look.





And here it is installed. I used red loctite on all 5 bolts, and torqued to 85 ft/lbs as stated on the mount itself. I had a little trouble bolting it on, but I had a friend hold the motor in place while I wedged the bolts back in place. The flash made the tint look really purple. Either way, looks nice!





Initial vibes were pretty strong, but like others have said is only noticeable in first and reverse in the 1k - 1.5k rpm range. I tried a hard launch just to test it out, no wheel hop! Car feels firmer to the ground, and I feel like more power is connecting to the wheels. All in all, very satisfied so far, and I'm excited to break it in!

[SeeMeGovan]

Originally Posted by HKchucksta I just received and mounted my CP-e Stage 2 RMM last night! I got the anodized black version

Even if nobody sees it, the black is so sexy. Good choice, I'm dying to buy one.

Crappatalking on my big-ass phone.

[08.5MS3]

You fuckers need to drive in the snow; with salt, brine, and all kinds of other shit on the roads. Your shit it too clean.

[Spring3]

Originally Posted by Grumpyjap I installed the cp-e stage 2 RMM on 3/10/12 You have to admit that right out of the box this is a really nice looking setup. The "wishbone" RMM bushing has been deleted and is just one solid piece. This then connects to a reworked bracket where they fitted a larger bushing. This bushing is mounted vertically, this allows movement in only 1 direction. rather than the back and forth movement of the traditional mount Stock bracket: New bracket: This is the mount fully assembled: Now onto installation: You must remove the existing RMM.(Obviously) This is the stock bracket with the cp-e stage 1 RMM First remove the 3 19mm bolts from this bracket: Then remove the 17mm bolt that connects the bracket and RMM: Then remove the vertical 17mm bolt: The RMM should just slip out now. With the cp-e logo facing down. Slide the new solid RMM into place: screw the OEM 17mm bolt in. I used red locktite as added security. DO NOT Tighten all the way yet. Leave it loose so it's easier to attach to the bracket Attach the new bracket with the larger bushing with the 3 OEM 19mm bolts. Again, I used red locktite for added security. Do not tighten these all the way either. Leave them loose to help make for an easier installation: Attach the new bracket and solid RMM together using the M12 X 1.75 x120mm bolt. Place one of the larger 1/2" washers on the bolt then slide the bolt through the RMM and new bracket piece, place the second larger 1/2" washer on the other end, then the 1/2" split lock washer then finally the M12 x 1.75 nut. Again I used red locktite as added security. Go ahead and tighten all the bolts. I've read you guys torque these bolts down anywhere from 70-90ft/lbs. I went 85 on all 5 bolts. Initial review: 3/12/12 I will admit I was VERY skeptical that this would make any difference at all, but after driving for 2 days on this I am really impressed. I've had 3 different mounts on my car before this one, not naming names, but I first had inserts which were ok. Then moved on to a dogbone type mount which was really good, but the vibrations were pretty bad and I'm all for function, but this would have eventually led to loose pieces on interior pieces rattles etc. Then to the cp-e stage 1 mount, not as stiff as the dogbone, BUT just as good with less vibes and just a little less stiff. The dogbone and cp-e mount reduced wheel hop a HUGE amount, there was still some, but not much and not often. Power transfer was really good with these 2 mounts also. Almost instant. Which brings me to the Stage 2 cp-e RMM, when I first started the car I could feel that this would be a fun first drive. I drove around a bit to get the engine warmed up and to see if I had forgotten to tighten anything. The first real launch was amazing. no wheel hop, it was like a combination of the stage 1 RMM and dogbone mount. Best of both worlds. A few launches and a bunch of 30, 45, and 60mph pulls all my skepticism disappeared. I Highly recommend this to anyone looking for a RMM or to upgrade theirs. Call me biased, but come drive my car and feel for yourself. You'll be sold.

Awesome review and instructions. This just made my list of future mods.

[hnda etr]

Originally Posted by Spring3 Awesome review and instructions. This just made my list of future mods.

Thank you for quoting the entire post and giving us another view of all the instructions and pics, in case anyone missed them in the first post...

Sent from my giant i317 Pocket Monster

Originally Posted by www.cp-e.com There were a few isolated incidents with the bolts coming loose for the bushing cover. It shouldn't be an issue anymore.

awesome Thank you!



Sent from my giant i317 Pocket Monster

[JgamB]

@Grumpyjap I've felt the 88duro dogbone - it's too harsh for me - but I also plan on stopping at ~300hp/340tq. At what point during your build would you say you outgrew the inserts?

Thanks!

[fishdonotbounce]

I'm sitting at around 295/320 and have stage 2 rear and 65 duro sides. I could never go back. Do yourself a favor and get all three.

[KRASHFOX]

I just installed Corksports Passenger Side Motor Mount and their Transmission Mount Insert. AMAZING!! No engine movement at all. The NVH is barely noticeable, it's not any louder than than a turbo back exhaust system. The benefits of these products from CS way out way any NVH!! Two must have products!!! I will post the before and after video on my page if I can figure out how hahaha

[08.5MS3]

Originally Posted by KRASHFOX I just installed Corksports Passenger Side Motor Mount and their Transmission Mount Insert. AMAZING!! No engine movement at all. The NVH is barely noticeable, it's not any louder than than a turbo back exhaust system. The benefits of these products from CS way out way any NVH!! Two must have products!!! I will post the before and after video on my page if I can figure out how hahaha

Why are you posting this in a CP-E motor mount thread?

[Grumpyjap]

Originally Posted by JgamB @Grumpyjap I've felt the 88duro dogbone - it's too harsh for me - but I also plan on stopping at ~300hp/340tq. At what point during your build would you say you outgrew the inserts? Thanks!

I would suggest giving the cp-e mounts a try then. Although I was happy with the corksport inserts, the only problem is that they are only as good as the stock mount and we all know how crappy the stock mount is.
The cp-e mounts reduce the vibrations and at the same time do not sacrifice the performance of having an upgraded mount. People that have sat in my car, which has all 3 mounts, barely notice the vibrations even with the a/c on. You do have to break them in though, as with all mounts.

[CWP_MS3]

Originally Posted by JgamB Grumpyjap I've felt the 88duro dogbone - it's too harsh for me - but I also plan on stopping at ~300hp/340tq. At what point during your build would you say you outgrew the inserts? Thanks!

The stage 2 mount is durable and after a few weeks of being on the car, the vibes are insignificant. I get slight vibrations around 1k during take off from a light, but in comparison to other mounts its very minuscule. @iammike; can tell you from experience, as he has owned both mounts.

[El_Diablo]

After around 8-9k miles & about 5-6 months on the mount the vibes are pretty much gone unless you lug the engine down. Awesome mount and well worth the money.

[tc0308]

So I finally got around to installing my CP-E stage two mount and I gotta say, I'm pretty pissed off.... Why might you ask? Because the car should have come from the factory this way!!!

After installing it I drove around a bit with my dad in the car and even he, as a passenger, could tell how much more solid the shifts were.

CP-E, this is one hell of a mount. So far it is the best mod I've done!!!

[tc0308]

Can the stage 2 mount can cause additional "tranny" whine? This morning while driving to work, and also on the way home, I noticed a whine between 2500 RPM down to 2000 RPM. It seems to be most apparent in 3rd gear and a little in 2nd. The sound isn't overly obnoxious, but just something I noticed. I've been driving w/ no radio just to listen to the engine and that is when I can hear it. IF it is tranny whine I am not worried; I just want to know what it is before I start blasting the radio again .

[www.cp-e.com]

We have not heard anyone with this issue. It wasn;t apparent on our test vehicles either. Do you have any of the other motor mounts installed?

[hnda etr]

The mounts don't "cause" more whine, but stiffer mounts can transmit more existing noise into the cabin... I have this Mount and both Street unit side mounts, in addition to the PTP kicker Mount, lightened Flywheel and balance Shaft deleted... My car sounds like a diesel truck inside the cabin.