need help with cp-e fuel pump install

[dizzydtrain]

I posted this in another section already but hope to get some input from cp-e as well.

Wow, I still can't believe how tough this install has been. I have the cp-e fuel pump and have followed this install guide--until I was ready to install the pump back in, everything went smoothly.

So the advice so far that I have received is to just torque the etorx bolts back in slowly one by one--this is a lot easier said than done. There is so much resistance getting the pump back into place that myself and my buddy could not even get close. At one point we got one of the bolts back in partially but that was about as close as we got to it.

I even tried to screw the 19mm nut back in first in hopes of aligning in correctly and then getting the etorx botls lined up--this even failed.

I don't want to keep forcing the fp back into place with this much resistance. Had to leave my car at my friends house for the night and will try again tomorrow. Any input would be appreciated.

The pic below is where I am at right now.

[Poohster]

Hmmm, I did this a while ago. I remember little by little each etorx bolt so it goes down evenly. I thought the tough part was lining up and tightening the bottom fuel line. Just keep tightening evenly each bolt. Good luck.

[m4tic]

i pmd you, you need to bump the starter to move the cam lobe and then tap the cam follower/bucket down in the hole... also make sure the hard line on the bottom is aligned and not getting bent

[phillyb]

Originally Posted by bmorrisj i pmd you, you need to bump the starter to move the cam lobe and then tap the cam follower/bucket down in the hole... also make sure the hard line on the bottom is aligned and not getting bent

happened to this black guy too. do what he says.

[dizzydtrain]

Originally Posted by bmorrisj i pmd you, you need to bump the starter to move the cam lobe and then tap the cam follower/bucket down in the hole... also make sure the hard line on the bottom is aligned and not getting bent

Thanks for the pm. Bumping the starter is for starting a car with a dead battery unless I got my terminology wrong? I removed the battery from the car to gain easier access to the fuel pump.

The cam follower does seem to be the problem that I am having right now because it won't let me instert the pump back in.

[kmac]

Rotate the crank by hand until the lobe is down and it go in

[Monotonous ONE]

yea hardest part for me was the hard line being positioned properly...but once it was...it was all good



and then after that...i think with where you are in the installation...a rubber mallet would help to "influence" the pump to seat properly...then the bolts are a breeze.

someone will probably say that its bad advice to force it in there tho...so dont do what i did =)

[ScarMS3]

Just give a little tap, a little tappy, a little tap taparoo.

[Monotonous ONE]

fuck that battery removal bullshit unless you were also installing something else

[dizzydtrain]

Yeah, I was installing my Corksport SRI/TIP.

I got a pm from bmorrisj and have a good idea of what to do now. Thanks for all your help, I should have posted on here earlier. Fucking love this place.

[www.cp-e.com]

All of the above suggestions are good. The HPFP cam lobe is likely just at the "high" position. Just turn the engine over a bit until you are on the flat side of the cam lobe, then evenly tighten down the bolts until the pump is seated against the housing.

[dizzydtrain]

Originally Posted by www.cp-e.com All of the above suggestions are good. The HPFP cam lobe is likely just at the "high" position. Just turn the engine over a bit until you are on the flat side of the cam lobe, then evenly tighten down the bolts until the pump is seated against the housing.

still having some issues. The cam lobe is that bronze looking pin where the hpfp spring would be insterted in, correct?

I am bump starting the car but it's still in the same position.

[rodrigo]

its beyond me how the lobe changes position from the spot where it stops at once u de pressurize the system.

here are some tips....

a) yes, bump start the engine until the "cup" that sits in the cylinder hole can be pushed to its lowest position.
b) look at what is holding the pump from being pushed in all the way....is it the follower sitting too high??? is it the dowel pin not lining up evenly so therefore cocking the pump? or....is it the main fuel line under the pump that hasnt mated to the fitting at the bottom of the pump and therefore it is causing some interference and giving you the idea that the pump cant be pushed in ....when in fact it is the fuel line pushing back on it rather then pump.

the answer is one of those 3 scenarios 100%..... i've done i cant tell u how many....

good luck.

[m4tic]

srsly you need to get a hammer and a screwdriver and tap the follower down in the hole

don't wail on it just tap it down

the camshaft pushes it up, the spring on the fuel pump pushes it down, otherwise it will just stay at it's highest point now that the pump is out


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dizzydtrain]

Originally Posted by bmorrisj srsly you need to get a hammer and a screwdriver and tap the follower down in the hole don't wail on it just tap it down the camshaft pushes it up, the spring on the fuel pump pushes it down, otherwise it will just stay at it's highest point now that the pump is out Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will give that a try but I was under the impression that it was pressurized. I guess I will have to force it now.

Thanks.

[m4tic]

nope.. the camshaft is physically pushing it up... like intake/exhaust valves, where the spring will snap them back closed

[rodrigo]

yeah listen to fucken morris here...........he fucked his up in my driveway several times....motherfucker even had to use a dremel to take his fp off......... listen to him he's def the person to have in your corner when u want quality work


<3 boynton

like i told u in the pm. if u want to be 100% sure pull the fucken follower out....and bump the ignition key until the lobe is away from the hole and u see nothing but the perfect camshaft circle side of it...once u see this get the butt end of a hammer (wood) and tap the fucker in..... then push the pump in place,


but....listen to me dude....the issue might very well be the fuel line in the way and not being inside the fitting...that shit is pretty stiff and might make u think the pump is holding itself from going in when it might be the fuel line....

anyways , keep us posted...we ll make sure the shit goes in

[dizzydtrain]

Finally got it installed today. Part of the problem with the install was how cold it actually got here. The follower was a bitch to finally get out but once I did that, I aligned the cam lobe correctly, lubed it up, and stuck it in.

After that it was a piece of cake. I also installed the cp-e tmic while I was at it.

I noticed that the pump is definitely a lot louder than the stocker and I did a quick log with my ap without actually flooring it and saw mid 1800's. Is there a break in procedure for the pump? I don't want to wail on the car yet--it's cold out and I am sure the ECU could use some time to adjust.

Either way, thanksfor everyone's help. For some reason this was the worst install I have ever gone through but I definitely learned something new.

[m4tic]

the pump should already be broken in from cpe's test rig... dont hold me to that

[dizzydtrain]

Originally Posted by bmorrisj the pump should already be broken in from cpe's test rig... dont hold me to that

I looked it up and you are right. They also sent in a confirmation with the test results, either way I am going to take it easy for a little bit until I get shit straightened out with my AP and let the fp/tmic settle in nicely.

The engine does feel a lot better pulling through the rpms--I am sure the tmic helps as well.

[the_caruch]

Funny enough i had this same problem with the "cup". Bumping the starter and rotating the crank manually didn't help. Needed a screw driver to wiggle it and it sucked back down and the pump went in great.

I'm glad i wasn't the only one that had this problem.

[dizzydtrain]

Originally Posted by the_caruch Funny enough i had this same problem with the "cup". Bumping the starter and rotating the crank manually didn't help. Needed a screw driver to wiggle it and it sucked back down and the pump went in great. I'm glad i wasn't the only one that had this problem.

That's actually what I ended up doing. I grabbed a screwdriver and slowly had to pry it out. Once I got it back out, I made sure the crank lob's "non-egg" side was facing away from the cup. After that, I made sure everything was oiled up and and placed it back in--i still had to hammer it in a bit.

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by dizzydtrain That's actually what I ended up doing. I grabbed a screwdriver and slowly had to pry it out. Once I got it back out, I made sure the crank lob's "non-egg" side was facing away from the cup. After that, I made sure everything was oiled up and and placed it back in--i still had to hammer it in a bit.

I'd be interested in your fuel pressures, given it looks like mine are relatively low for an aftermarket cp-e pump. i think that the highest I've hit is ~1900psi, and I'm more consistently seeing ~1600-1800.

Some of the guys are cracking 2000.

[dachtler]

Excellent thread for install tips on the CDFP. I ordered my CP-E pump yesterday, and received an email from Paula saying it should ship in about 1.5 weeks. Hopefully, with everyone's helpful hints here and on other threads, this install will go smoothly.

[dizzydtrain]

Looking back on it, the install is pretty straight forward. You are from CA so I doubt you will have 18 degree install weather with snow blasting you in the face. If I were to do it again, I am sure I can easily swap the pump out in an hour or less. Just take your time with it and you should be good.

Follow this thread for step by step instructions.

CDFP internals upgrade

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 No, my logs are not showing any drops, it is just interesting to me how the pumps, both stock and with internals installed vary so widely. The reason that I am asking is I noticed that the ap targets 1700 psi @ wot (taken from the datalogging guidelines) and sometimes I seem to be teetering right on the number, whereas others are comfortably above. @ wot, I have been above (what iirc is 1600) the point @ which is critical to the ecu panicking. I'm not complaining, I am just interested in the variances.

I see what you are saying. I was going to log last night but could not find an opportunity anywhere to wot. It was just one of those nights where someone was always pulling out in front of me or a cop was lurking.

[dachtler]

Originally Posted by dizzydtrain Looking back on it, the install is pretty straight forward. You are from CA so I doubt you will have 18 degree install weather with snow blasting you in the face. If I were to do it again, I am sure I can easily swap the pump out in an hour or less. Just take your time with it and you should be good. Follow this thread for step by step instructions. CDFP internals upgrade

Thanks, dizzydtrain. I had seen that thread before, but thanks for saving me from having to search for it again. :-)

Yup, there's no chance of 18 degree weather here for the install. More like high 50s or low 60s.

[bertrand_CX_7]

OK I'll do mine tonight with 80 degree but it's not a warranty that I'll encounter no issues.

I didn't drove the car for 2 days hopping the depressurize the fuel system; Hopefully it's true.

Now how come that issue dizzydtrain and other users are experiencing even tho they where able to get the stock pump out without issue.

I'll post back with other questions. Please bear with me tonight, don't let me down. I need to get that thing in by today.

[m4tic]

Originally Posted by bertrand_CX_7 OK I'll do mine tonight with 80 degree but it's not a warranty that I'll encounter no issues. I didn't drove the car for 2 days hopping the depressurize the fuel system; Hopefully it's true. Now how come that issue dizzydtrain and other users are experiencing even tho they where able to get the stock pump out without issue. I'll post back with other questions. Please bear with me tonight, don't let me down. I need to get that thing in by today.

ha you dont let the car sit for days to de-pressurize, you pull the 'circuit' relay, unplug the cdfp harness and let the car die, then turn it over a couple times to squirt out the last bit of pressure in the hard line.

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by bmorrisj ha you dont let the car sit for days to de-pressurize, you pull the 'circuit' relay, unplug the cdfp harness and let the car die, then turn it over a couple times to squirt out the last bit of pressure in the hard line.

Key point in red. I pulled the fuse, let the car die, and there was still plenty o' pressure in the lines. Thanks to Monotonous One, it didn't spray in my eyes.

[dizzydtrain]

I don't think there is one particular reason tbh. Shit just happens when you work on cars. Before I began, I expected it to be a pretty straight forward install. I started late on Saturday night and ran out of day light (it was about 45 degrees that day). The next day my car was completely covered it snow and the temps dropped to about 18 degrees. I am sure it did not help that everything was cold as fuck and left out overnight.

Couple that with inexperience with fp installs and I made myself really paranoid about breaking shit especially when nothing worked the way they were described in the diy's. I am sure you won't have any problems as long as you follow this thread and craigs install diy. Like I said, I am sure I could do it again in an hour or so if I had to do it again.

Either way, if you get stuck it really does help to just take a breather and think shit through. I got a lot of help from people on the site and finally got it done.

[bertrand_CX_7]

OK Since Friday the car is sitting in the garage and engine wasn't fired up. Good so far....


just to make sure I got it correctly (sorry for my English but I want to make sure that I got it correctly:

1) - Does the engine need to be running when pulling the circuit relay ???
2) - When you said

then turn it over a couple times to squirt out the last bit of pressure in the hard line.

Do you mean to turn the Ignition key like you are trying to start the engine couple time. Correct?

If the 2 points above are what you mean then let me summarize it as follow


1) - If the car didn't sleep overnight the start the car and while engine is running and pull the circuit relay (Outch....).
2) - While the engine is still running unplug the cdfp harness until it the engine run out of gas and and goes off.
3) - After the engine goes of turn, the ignition key like you are trying to start the car several times in order to get rid of the last pressure in the hard line.

Sorry men, I don't want to assume this is what you meant. I rater get this level of detail than Zoom Zoom and Boom

thanks a lot for the confirmation!

[rfinkle2]

1) Start the car

2) Pull fuse

3) The car will eventually die

4) Turn the car over to release any left over pressure

The lines conveniently point directly @ your face, so be careful even after following the above. Thanks to Monotonous One for this eyesight saving tip.

[bertrand_CX_7]

Originally Posted by bertrand_CX_7 and I'll make sure to ignite my cigarette before starting the install

^^^^^^

[dizzydtrain]

Originally Posted by bertrand_CX_7 ^^^^^^

Make sure to record it on a GoPro and have a relative post that shit up on the forums for lulz.

[bertrand_CX_7]

@dizzydtrain: I hope u got the joke.

I posted one message and right after this a second one but the forum software merged both of my messages and it wasn't funy any more since it could lead to confusion....

Anyway, Finkle, you got it that it was a joke on my previous message right

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by bertrand_CX_7 @dizzydtrain: I hope u got the joke. I posted one message and right after this a second one but the forum software merged both of my messages and it wasn't funy any more since it could lead to confusion.... Anyway, Finkle, you got it that it was a joke on my previous message right

Yes, the reference to smoking while gasoline was shooting toward your face? It is one of those "you had to be there" type things. I don't know what happened to your post or why they merged that way.

I just hope that everyone's install proceeds without any explosions, maiming etc.

[doubleflusher]

If you make consecutive posts within 6 minutes or fewer, the posts are automatically merged.

[bertrand_CX_7]

Sorry guys, I just realized my tool box doesn't have that specific tool. Made a stop @Wallmart and no luck.

I'll postpone it for tomorrow night, again.

[bertrand_CX_7]

.
Any one used the zip tie?

I'm not sure what tool # (mm wise) I need to use to secure the joint nut in order to keep it from rotate as it's recommended in the instruction.

In order to secure the joint nut and avoid it to rotate, does a 19 mm goes there to secure the joint nut.

cp-e install instruction is a POS

[dizzydtrain]

Originally Posted by bertrand_CX_7 . Any one used the zip tie? I'm not sure what tool # (mm wise) I need to use to secure the joint nut in order to keep it from rotate as it's recommended in the instruction. In order to secure the joint nut and avoid it to rotate, does a 19 mm goes there to secure the joint nut. cp-e install instruction is a POS

You use a 17mm to hold the top nut in place and a 19mm to loosen the bottom nut.

Originally Posted by bertrand_CX_7 . Any one used the zip tie? I'm not sure what tool # (mm wise) I need to use to secure the joint nut in order to keep it from rotate as it's recommended in the instruction. In order to secure the joint nut and avoid it to rotate, does a 19 mm goes there to secure the joint nut. cp-e install instruction is a POS

...and yes, I did use a zip tie to prevent the 19mm nut from slipping down into the engine bay.