Review: Full CP-E engine mounts.
 

Stage 2 RMM - been on the car over a year.
60A PMM - been on the car a few weeks.
60A TMM - installed today.

Today I completed the full mount set on my car and wanted to share my impressions both individually and as a whole. This is coming from someone who did not want a lot of vibes as this is my daily driver...but wanted the security of beefed up motor mounts knowing how pussy the OEM ones are.

Stage 2 RMM: Quite honestly, this is the best RMM on the market IMHO. The only one that might compare is the recently released Matt Diamond RMM since it too reorients the load on the bushing but the CP-E mount is time tested and a more complete kit. Increase in NVH was negligible. Engine felt noticeably more planted and controlled. Installation was a breeze.

60A PMM: Wanting to avoid turning my car into a vibrating sex toy, I chose to continue with CP-E's mount solution and to go with the 60 durometer option. Adding the PMM had a mild impact on NVH upon initial installation but within a week, the added vibes were almost gone. Engine felt more controlled and planted than just having the RMM. (at this time, I had the CS TMM insert in as well) Installation was very basic and quick.

60A TMM: This completed my target for motor mounts. No additional NVH noted while cruising but I can hear additional transmission noise in 1st and 2nd but nothing bad. Get a little bit of vibe resonance when idle and AC compressor is on but going by the break-in of the PMM, I expect that will settle in a week or so and it's certainly not bad even now. Installation was by far the most difficult of the 3 and removing the stud from the transmission was a royal shit fest. My tip for removing that stud can be seen here: http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...moving-170512/

As a full set, I'm very pleased with the route I chose to go considering my goals of a more secure mounting solution than OEM while not trying to set off seismographs in the area. If you don't mind the vibes and want an even more solid setup, CP-E does offer higher durometer options for the PMM and TMM. All in all, highly recommended if you can spend the money.

I want to be respectful here and offer a counterpoint. I would pretty much challenge anyone going for all 3 mounts and ask why... The stock mounts do a good job working together for the side to side stuff with good isolation for NVH to the cab. How much do you really think the engine moves around lengthwise perpindicular to it's rotation axis? All you are doing is reducing isolation and passing NVH straight into the chassis with no benefit because the engine doesn't really rotate rotate on its long axis between the PMM and TMM.

The rear mount is definitely the weakest link by far, in the MS6 or MS3 for the torsional load the engine places on that mount. That is by far the most crucial mount of the 3 for street/occasional track driving. I think changing the side mounts is superfluous assuming the OEM mounts are in good shape.

I don't know; I was fully bolted with three mounts at one point and absolutely hated the car. I even went back to stock and put the three mounts BACK on to make sure I wasn't just being a pussy. It was unbearable. I then went to the stock PMM and TMM and the CP-E RMM, and IMO that does everything the car needs. The RMM alone prevents that heavy torsional feel from the motor moving around and pulling on the shift cables when you are trying to find 3rd gear. If someone can prove otherwise, through time slips or lap times that PMM and TMM improve their car's ability to put power down, then I will accept that.

The NVH from the 3 mounts is pretty terrible in MS3s or MS6s. OP, I tell you what, drive on the mounts for a month and go back to stock PMM and TMM. I guarantee you won't go back. It's like driving a Cadillac wrapped in bubble wrap on foam tires for the first few days. The only thing that will keep you from going back is because you feel the need to justify your purchase. If you are being completely honest with yourself and us here, do you really feel the PMM and TMM made a tremendous effect on the car's handling/performance relative to cost and increase in harshness/noise?

I don't mean to harsh your gig and I understand this may be kind of a dick move so I apologize in advance, I'm just offering a counterpoint for people to think about when they decide to go this route. I have been off of the fully mounted bandwagon for a while. I always read thread after thread about people having to bolt on all 3 mounts like it's a MUST do, and I just don't get it...

Well, all I can and will tell you or anyone is that the engine is obviously moving around less with the PMM and TMM in. If that's needed or not is up to each persons opinion IMHO. I like knowing that all 3 mounts are beefed up and different from you, I've heard too many stories of PMM and TMM failures.

As for NVH and how "horrible" it is. I'm pretty damn sensitive to vibes. At one point the only mount I had on my car was the JBR 88 Dogbone. It was too much and it got replaced and sold. All 3 of these mounts together do not transmit the NVH of the dogbone. @Cyclops; became the new owner of my dogbone and got to hear me bitching about the vibes from it. lol

I'll throw my hat into the ring as I have the 88 duro trilogy set from jbr. At first it was pretty much terrible all the time but now that the mounts have settled in I can't say it is perfectly quiet, but it also isn't terribly loud. There are certain rpms, mainly 1750 to 3000, that are horrible. I'm not upset because I knew what I was getting into when I did it. I cant say that i noticed much difference from stock after changing the tmm and pmm in performance, but vibes were greater. I'm picking up the Damond RMM and I think that will fix my nvh problem. I'll review it once I install and compare. Performance wise it was more peace of mine than this will make my car faster. I know things won't move with the way they are now.

tapatalk, it sucks for free.

1. Same here, it wasn't to make my car faster...but instead to put in some supporting mods instead of worrying that I'm gonna pop an OEM mount.

2. The CP-E set I have does not have any bad vibe ranges in the RPM and only mild resonation at idle with AC on which will likely work itself out since I had that as well with the PMM and it was gone within the week. The RPM ranges of bad vibes especially just on tip in of the throttle is a big part of why I got rid of my dogbone.

But are you guys putting on mounts for the sake of putting them on? I have only read about 1 PMM on an MS6 leaking out in all my years. Do these cars break/rip PMM/TMM's regularly and at the power levels most of us run at/aspire to run at (300-400WHP)? I think @LumberJack; only has a RMM on his 790WHP Speed3 and the other stockers have survived so far.

If there are cases where PMMs/TMMs have broken as a result of 300-400WHP then I would buy that as a good reason. Otherwise they are just noise makers.

With all due respect, I bought them for peace of mind...my mind. I don't buy parts to impress or satisfy anyone but myself.

If you're not concerned with the OEM mounts, then by all means, keep the OEM mounts. I'm not telling people they need mounts...simply giving my impressions of CP-E's mount offerings for those who might be looking at buying mounts.

I'm of the mind that any reduction in the engine moving means that powers going to the ground. It wasn't a worry about the mounts taking a crap.

tapatalk, it sucks for free.

Fair enough. Points noted. This is what makes MSF good is debate and what not which helps us all learn.

I've never had a mount crap due to power. The idea is to make sure the power you make goes to the ground.

tapatalk, it sucks for free.

Lets not forget the reduction in torque steer and wheel hop as well. FWD problems.

I'll way in on this to give another case sub 300AWHP at 100+k. My PMM cracked in the bottom and leaked all over the damn place, I investigated my TMM since the motor was on a hoist and it tore like construction paper. The RMM I got Cullinspenis a few years ago so that was obviously crap.

I don't believe it's common, but the other mounts do fail, I don't know if the 3 has one - but I like the front mount for the 6.

@iammike; Thanks for the review - I was debating between this and the 70A JBR and decided to go that route. I don't mind a little 'added excitement' when driving :smlove2:

I know have an rmm, and an 88 duro JBR TMM

My cpe stage 2 tmm vibes way more than my jbr did. When it was new the jbr was horrible, but after break in it was awesome, I'd go back if I still had it.

I second the op, I have Cpe mounts all way round and best IMO


Sent whilst bojanglen.

+1 cp-e RMM

Immediate improvement in driveability. Slapped it on 5 years ago with less than 1k on the odo. The rest of cp-es' mounts are salty but probably worth it.

Did you by chance snap some pics of your tmm? I bought one recently and I was a little on the ropes about how this is welded only on one side, in two places. I would think both sides is what you want. This is top and bottom shots. Everyone else's look like this?

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/16/e6a7y2yb.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/16/4ajagezu.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/16/e6egy3a5.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/16/ge2e5ady.jpg

I did not take pictures.

Contact cp-e, I have had all 3 mounts for over 2 years and do not remember what it looked like.

I emailed pics to support like 2 or 3 days ago. Usually I'm more patient but, I'd like to go to the track tonight. unless I get an answer I can't. Not trying to launch my ride and then drive 110 OK OK 108 mph down the track if it might bust on me.

Call them. I have some photos, but unfortunately I am not home.

Maybe @Grumpyjap; can chime in?

PM sent

I have all 3 mounts(60), and they have been on the car since October. To be honest I'm not super over the moon about my mounts. I installed them because my PMM was broken, and couldn't tell if my TMM was weakened. My car still vibrates enough to not be able to see things in the rear view mirror between 2700-3200 rpm. The bad part, that's about 75% of the time. I was wondering if the solution was to loosen all the mounts and twist the motor a bit then tighten everything up. I question if the motor is slightly crooked, or being pulled to one side or the other. Any thoughts? I do wish the instructions were a little more detailed. I did wonder about installing the stock "weights" in case that helped. Any help would be appreciated.

How many miles do you have on those mounts? Depending on your driving most mounts might take up to a couple thousand miles to properly break in.

For those who were concerned with rear view mirror vibes.

Someone said something about side mounts?

How about my trans just dropped while topping out 4th gear.
Jbr 88 trans mount. Bolt snapped at the threads. Took my axle out.

So yeah id say that shit moves around.

Also i might add. Have you ever watched a car launch on stock mounts?

@El Beaner;

Launch...on stock mounts...and the engine didn't come through the firewall? lol

I broke my stock PMM Auto'Xing and have talked to a gen1 speed owner that said he used to break one a SEASON.

I have full Cpe mounts much better than stock IMO


Sent whilst bojanglen.

By all means this was not scinetific but between a fully mounted MS3 vs a fully stock MS3 torque steer was still ever present and almost identical.

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...-stock-167485/

Looking at getting these soon. Have cobb rmm right now.

Worthless fucking bump...way to go.

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tapatalk, it sucks