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| MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Dyno Sheets/Discussions Post up your dynosheets. Discuss the graphs and any related information. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Figured I'd also drop it in the proper forum section to further discuss and see if I can get some more insight into the details of what I'm looking at and possibly discuss next steps/goals.
What I didn't post in the other thread was a snapshot of my 3rd gear WOT log that I took a couple days prior. The two look fairly similar to me in terms of numbers, but I wanted to see if what I was doing was correct and it's nice to have some solid results from an actual dyno test. With my current mods list I'm now wondering what my next steps should be. I'd like to go BT sometime this year and I've been holding out on pulling the trigger due to rumblings of BNR's new turbo that's currently in testing. I started getting the BT itch close to a year ago and posted it up here: Got That BT Itch I've had a couple people already say that I should look into E85, and it's worth noting that I do have access to E85 really close to where I live (less than a mile away), but work remotely and don't drive my car too frequently. So? Well, I can't remember where I heard it, but recall hearing that E85 doesn't sit too well in the tank for extended periods of time. To give you an idea: it's a 2012 that I bought used with only 9.9K miles on it in 2013 and now she's got 34.5K - I only filled up like 5 or 6 times last year. I maybe drive it once or twice a week at most and that's only locally around town. Really seeking some knowledge from some of the MSF sages here. Could I go E85 with a 50/50 mix, full E85 and just make sure to drop some fresh fuel in every so often, go meth, etc.? Just a bit confused as to where and what my next steps should be. I'd like to have her at 400+whp and ideally get another beater as my "daily." Thanks in advance for even taking the time to read this.
__________________ 2012 Crystal White Pearl MS3 - http://i.imgur.com/duln01Z.png JBR 88 Durometer RMM, Autotech HPFP Internals, COBB Accessport V3, CS Hood Strut Kit, CS Underhood LED Kit, CS Eyelids (painted), BFG CS2s with JBR 5mm spacers, Password JDM Gurney Flap, FREEKTUNE e-Tune, Full Race FMIC, RÄZO RA138 Shift Knob, RÄZO 270mm Convex Rear View Mirror, Rally Armor Limited Ed. Flaps, JBR Stage 2 Short Shifter, NGK One Step Colder Plugs, Ultimate Racing: V3 Down Pipe (w/ Metal Substrate Core), Straight Test Pipe, and CBE, Go Fast Bits Respons TMS Blowoff Valve, CS Injector Seals, DM Stage 1 OCC + VTA, DM EGR Delete Kit, DM PMM, HTP 3.5" Intake, BNR S4, Grimmspeed EBCS, CS 3.5 Bar MAP, Prosport 52"mm Premium Evo Boost Gauge, RÄZO RP81 and RP85 Sports Competition Pedals, AEM Water/Meth Injection Kit, DM TB Spacer, Koyorad Racing Radiator V-Series Core | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Buy an S4, run an E30 mix. It should be stable enough for long periods of time that it won't pull in a ton of water. If you're going to go more than a couple month between fill ups either don't top the tank off, just run like 2/3 of a tank or chuck in some fuel stabilizer.
__________________ Built 5862: Shootin For The Stars 2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT Crystal White Pearl #07141 Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC VersaTuner = Versatune Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert Turbine Tech = Forward Diff Mount - FMM CP-e = Exhaust Manifold - Injector Seals PTE = JB 5862 JMF = Intake Manifold w/Custom PI Kozmic = Downpipe - 6th Port - EGR Delete Forge = V2 BPV Tial = 44mm WG Autotech = HPFP Internals HTP = 4" Intake - Battery Tray Bilstein = B6 Shocks w/Eibach springs Grimmspeed = EBCS Technafit = SS Brake Lines - SS Clutch Line Enkei = EVOX GSR 18x8.5 +38 - NT03+M 17x9.5 +38 Custom = FMIC w/TR1035 - Shifter Cables - Shifter Bushings |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Mazdazilla6 For This Useful Post: | PapaBruno (04-14-2017) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If your planning on going BT, you'll probably need more fuel. I'd go ahead and get wmi. I also add Meth 2gallons per tank to my gas. That way I only have to worry about keeping Meth in stock. As far as letting it sit, our new E10 gas or whatever it is will cause problems if it sits too long. My buddy with a '72 vette has had to get the carburetor rebuilt several times due to the water absorption
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Thanks to the both of you for popping in and giving some input. Please keep it coming. I'm always down to learn more and hear what others have to say.
__________________ 2012 Crystal White Pearl MS3 - http://i.imgur.com/duln01Z.png JBR 88 Durometer RMM, Autotech HPFP Internals, COBB Accessport V3, CS Hood Strut Kit, CS Underhood LED Kit, CS Eyelids (painted), BFG CS2s with JBR 5mm spacers, Password JDM Gurney Flap, FREEKTUNE e-Tune, Full Race FMIC, RÄZO RA138 Shift Knob, RÄZO 270mm Convex Rear View Mirror, Rally Armor Limited Ed. Flaps, JBR Stage 2 Short Shifter, NGK One Step Colder Plugs, Ultimate Racing: V3 Down Pipe (w/ Metal Substrate Core), Straight Test Pipe, and CBE, Go Fast Bits Respons TMS Blowoff Valve, CS Injector Seals, DM Stage 1 OCC + VTA, DM EGR Delete Kit, DM PMM, HTP 3.5" Intake, BNR S4, Grimmspeed EBCS, CS 3.5 Bar MAP, Prosport 52"mm Premium Evo Boost Gauge, RÄZO RP81 and RP85 Sports Competition Pedals, AEM Water/Meth Injection Kit, DM TB Spacer, Koyorad Racing Radiator V-Series Core | ||
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__________________ Juan on meth | |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to AnimalMother For This Useful Post: | Mazdazilla6 (04-14-2017), PapaBruno (04-14-2017) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You won't have any issues letting it sit for a while. The worse case scenario is the car runs a little rough until you can get fresh gas in it. Nothing will get harmed. Carbs and older cars have issues with it because they have seals and other components that aren't rated to handle ethanol or alcohol.
__________________ Built 5862: Shootin For The Stars 2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT Crystal White Pearl #07141 Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC VersaTuner = Versatune Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert Turbine Tech = Forward Diff Mount - FMM CP-e = Exhaust Manifold - Injector Seals PTE = JB 5862 JMF = Intake Manifold w/Custom PI Kozmic = Downpipe - 6th Port - EGR Delete Forge = V2 BPV Tial = 44mm WG Autotech = HPFP Internals HTP = 4" Intake - Battery Tray Bilstein = B6 Shocks w/Eibach springs Grimmspeed = EBCS Technafit = SS Brake Lines - SS Clutch Line Enkei = EVOX GSR 18x8.5 +38 - NT03+M 17x9.5 +38 Custom = FMIC w/TR1035 - Shifter Cables - Shifter Bushings |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Mazdazilla6 For This Useful Post: | PapaBruno (04-14-2017) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I run an E30 mix for extended periods (ride a motorcycle too a lot) and I have no issues even after a month of having the same fuel in tank. Mixing it yourself is easy at the pump, especially if the E source is close to your residence, don't even need to store it in the garage. Also by the way, why wait for an S5 if you're not built yet? An S4 will take you into built motor/aux fuel territory.
__________________ 2006 Super Clean BCM MS6 Corksport Intake/TIP - Test Pipe - CS FMIC - Freektune - Autotech HPFP - 18x8 Wheels with Nitto NT05's 235/40/18 - H&R Coilovers - SPC Balljoints - CS RMM - Magnaflow CBE - DM Power Steering Cooler - CAR LED Tails - EBC Yellowstuff w/ Centric Blanks - Xcarlink w/ Bluetooth Module Waiting to be installed: Diff Braces - TMM Insert |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Just got off the phone with the folks from BNR. Their new turbo is being tested on a 2JZ right now and will be dyno'd tomorrow. It's still a ways out though, but they also said that if the engine isn't built that I'd probably be good to go with the S4. So maybe it would be more beneficial for my current goals to grab the S4, a new 3.5" or 4" intake, run E30 or E85, a new tune and some supporting mods then? EDIT: The main thing that has really been keeping me from pulling the trigger on the S4 is the power cap. I don't want to hit it fast and then be stuck looking for more power.
__________________ 2012 Crystal White Pearl MS3 - http://i.imgur.com/duln01Z.png JBR 88 Durometer RMM, Autotech HPFP Internals, COBB Accessport V3, CS Hood Strut Kit, CS Underhood LED Kit, CS Eyelids (painted), BFG CS2s with JBR 5mm spacers, Password JDM Gurney Flap, FREEKTUNE e-Tune, Full Race FMIC, RÄZO RA138 Shift Knob, RÄZO 270mm Convex Rear View Mirror, Rally Armor Limited Ed. Flaps, JBR Stage 2 Short Shifter, NGK One Step Colder Plugs, Ultimate Racing: V3 Down Pipe (w/ Metal Substrate Core), Straight Test Pipe, and CBE, Go Fast Bits Respons TMS Blowoff Valve, CS Injector Seals, DM Stage 1 OCC + VTA, DM EGR Delete Kit, DM PMM, HTP 3.5" Intake, BNR S4, Grimmspeed EBCS, CS 3.5 Bar MAP, Prosport 52"mm Premium Evo Boost Gauge, RÄZO RP81 and RP85 Sports Competition Pedals, AEM Water/Meth Injection Kit, DM TB Spacer, Koyorad Racing Radiator V-Series Core Last edited by PapaBruno; 04-14-2017 at 01:34 PM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score 3.5" intake, BNR S4, and meth or E85 should take you close enough to 400 whp. You'll have to check yourself if there's enough fueling headroom for an E85 mix at 400 whp, because I don't know. Or run meth and E85. 2 is better than 1. I seriously doubt you're going to power cap the S4. It should be able to take you well into the mid 400's IF you have the fuel.
__________________ AP V3 Damond RMM Test Pipe Autotech HPFP internals Cobb SRI + TIP ETS TMIC cp-e Triton CBE Hypnotic 272/330 93, 294/321 E85 (still tuning) |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Speedy955 For This Useful Post: | PapaBruno (04-14-2017) |
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