Cobb Tuning 3" Downpipe

[Haltech]

Comments and questions about the review can be posted here.

[rodrigo]

Looks good. About time you get your hands dirty, my favorite picture is the one of the threadless stock O2 sensor. I'm assuming the heat shield goes back on top of the dp, shape...such a niece looking piece of hardware.

[FreeFlyFreak]

Excellent review as always.

Let us know when you start smoking.......

[Haltech]

Originally Posted by FreeFlyFreak Excellent review as always. Let us know when you start smoking.......

5/40 brotha, no smoke in sight!!

[mtlms3]

Maybe I missed it, but do you have the bosch part number for the sensor that was lunched?

[Haltech]

Originally Posted by mtlms3 Maybe I missed it, but do you have the bosch part number for the sensor that was lunched?

No, but ill post it for you.

[LBV]

Is there supposed to be a review here? Why can't I see it??

[LBV]

Found the review ... now THAT'S the way a how-to should be written. Well done!

[Haltech]

F00E262571 - BOSCH

[mtlms3]

Originally Posted by Haltech F00E262571 - BOSCH

Awesome, thanks!! I'll be sure to order one before I start a DP install.

[PCspeed3]

So is a narrow band sensor even neccessary? I saw that you just plugged yours and it worked out. Any CEL's with no sensor? very nice write up by the way, I may be going down to Cobb to get the turbo back for Christmas......=)

Edit: Sound clips! Sound Clips! Sound Clips!

[Haltech]

Originally Posted by PCspeed3 So is a narrow band sensor even neccessary? I saw that you just plugged yours and it worked out. Any CEL's with no sensor? very nice write up by the way, I may be going down to Cobb to get the turbo back for Christmas......=) Edit: Sound clips! Sound Clips! Sound Clips!

It threw a CEL the second time i cranked the car over. The car didnt act odd, nor did it exhibit any power loss. I had done a log prior and after, everything looked fine.

Now, on Fords, the rear 02's are for 1996+ OBDII compliance only. So, since they arent heated, their only job is to report a rear section converter failure. Ive heard people say that the car tunes off the narrow band, opposed to the wideband, but i also find this hard to believe since mazda chose to do a wideband up top, prior to the first converter. They could of saved a lot of money and used a narrow band there too.

[Speedy3]

I see you didn't pre-twist the WB O2 sensor before threading it in......

Nice write-up btw. A couple things i'd add is to how to remove the stock DP top heat shield before removing the DP-turbo studs. It can be done, just have to find the right angles. Also, I use cooking Pam spray on the lower rubber mounting grommets to help remove/install the DP hangers.

[Haltech]

Originally Posted by Speedy3 I see you didn't pre-twist the WB O2 sensor before threading it in...... Nice write-up btw. A couple things i'd add is to how to remove the stock DP top heat shield before removing the DP-turbo studs. It can be done, just have to find the right angles. Also, I use cooking Pam spray on the lower rubber mounting grommets to help remove/install the DP hangers.

Pam is the last thing you want to use... PB blaster or WD40 will work. I was in a hurry the second go around and didnt snap pics of the top heat shield.

What do you mean i didnt pre twist the 02 sensor? You can even get it started without doing so.

[Speedy3]

Originally Posted by Haltech Pam is the last thing you want to use... PB blaster or WD40 will work. I was in a hurry the second go around and didnt snap pics of the top heat shield.

Pam works perfect on the rubber hangers. I'm not talking about the DP studs.

Originally Posted by Haltech What do you mean i didnt pre twist the 02 sensor? You can even get it started without doing so.

The picture shows the wires all twisted up. Why are you being so defensive?

[Haltech]

Originally Posted by Speedy3 Pam works perfect on the rubber hangers. I'm not talking about the DP studs. The picture shows the wires all twisted up. Why are you being so defensive?

You didnt specify wires, you said i didnt thread the O2 before tightening it down, which is incorrect info.

Im really not to concerned with the wires being straight man. I really dont understand why you are being critical about it.

[LBV]

I think the comment about twisting the O2 wires is that you need to pre-twist the O2 in a counter-clockwise rotation BEFORE actually twisting it into the bung. That way when you're fully rotated clockwise (ie. tightened) the wires are atleast reasonably straight.

[xandrake]

He's not being critical, just offering insight to people who might not pay attention and pull wires too tightly.



Thanks for this write up! It's going to help me a ton with my install in the next few weeks.

[GFish]

how about them audio clips lol... cant wait till you get a chance to make them looking foward to it

[CWPspeed3]

Thats one of the best reviews/ how-to's I've ever seen, kind of scared me away from trying to do a downpipe myself though, the price is the other part that scared me away.

[PCspeed3]

Hal, where did you buy your Bosch O2 sensor? thanks

[Haltech]

EDO ordered it for me locally from their distributor. Whomever sells Bosch, can get you that sensor.

so the torque for the downpipe bolts is anywere from 38 too 51 ft lbs???
also is it pointless to get the cat back because the downpipe goes down to 2.5" anyway???? is the stock catback restrictive??

[Haltech]

Originally Posted by WhiteSpeed3 so the torque for the downpipe bolts is anywere from 38 too 51 ft lbs??? also is it pointless to get the cat back because the downpipe goes down to 2.5" anyway???? is the stock catback restrictive??

it only necks down there to get a good seal on any catback thats on the market. Lots of people prefer to use the stock cb which is 2.5 inch and this slight neck down, allows a good seal. It hardly makes it anymore restrictive then your stock exhaust. Its not a huge drastic neck down as you can see in the pictures.

how much hp can i expect from this turboback exhaust. in combo with the cobb sri

[Haltech]

Originally Posted by WhiteSpeed3 how much hp can i expect from this turboback exhaust. in combo with the cobb sri

Depends on the tune honestly.. Anywhere from 30-50 hp.

in the summer i plan to add exactly what i have posted in my signature, cobb inlet, cobb sri, cobb turboback, hks bpv. No tuning though. Just bolting on these things. si im looking at more like 30 whp?

[Haltech]

Originally Posted by WhiteSpeed3 in the summer i plan to add exactly what i have posted in my signature, cobb inlet, cobb sri, cobb turboback, hks bpv. No tuning though. Just bolting on these things. si im looking at more like 30 whp?

Cant really tell you. each car is difference. By summer time, we will have an onslaught of tuning options, so i would reconsider your tuning option.

then in the summer i will be doing alot of research. lol i only have 150 miles on my car and i already have a wish list

[Haltech]

Originally Posted by WhiteSpeed3 then in the summer i will be doing alot of research. lol i only have 150 miles on my car and i already have a wish list

You and 90% of the rest of us. lol

[xandrake]

I had my SRI on within the first 50 miles. :X

i wanna put at least 3000 miles on my car to make sure i dont have a lemon before i start modding

[ms3jake]

To anyone's knowledge has anyone blown their Ms3 motor from having an intake and downpipe/midpipe as their only mods, no tune(not due to factory motor defect) I mean solely from the downpipe?

with cobb i dont think u have to worry cause the back pressure from there downpipe will prevent booost spikes i think.

[PCspeed3]

So I have been hunting around for that damn 02 sensor for a week now and I cant seem to find it. So I called Bosch directly today and they gave me the part #13770. Hal, is there anyway you could maybe check the box that your sensor came in and look for this part number? im 90% sure that part number that Bosch gave me is the one I need. Thanks.

[Haltech]

The number i listed is what the box said.

[fbpem1]

i just want to state, Haltech, that the bosch number you listed is a production number the actual part number is 99.9% of the time a 5 digit number i have it written down on my tool box but 13770 sounds correct actually, the 5 digit number is how to order it, most of the time a production code won't cross over in their system at said auto parts store.

[dubi0us]

At recommendation of machine shop next door I used a product called 'Aerokroil' sprayed it on all of the nuts/bolts that needed to be removed and waited an hour. By the time I came back, all of the nuts (that I could reach) came off with no force at all, including both O2 sensors. If you live next to a machine shop and are doing this install I'd highly recommend seeing if they have any you could borrow or spray into a cup to brush on. All went smoothly except for the front bottom nut on the DP flange, that fucker cost me an hour just trying to come up with the right socket/extension combination. Once I cracked it a little loose it spun right off, but shit I tried the wobble extension, the universal socket, 1/4" drive, 3/8" drive, short sockets and long sockets. I finally gave up on the wobble/extension combo and took off the heat shielding from the exhaust manifold and put the ratchet between the exhaust ducts. Sadly I ran out of light, will have to finish tomorrow, but it seems downhill from here(please Murphy don't smite me!)

how do you tq the bottom flange bolts cause all u can use is a open end wrench. i mean i tightended them good but i know they arent as tight as the top 3 i got the tq wrench on.
also mine were not locking type nuts. as soon as i loosened them they all came off by hand.

[Haltech]

Originally Posted by 18psiWhiteMS3 how do you tq the bottom flange bolts cause all u can use is a open end wrench. i mean i tightended them good but i know they arent as tight as the top 3 i got the tq wrench on. also mine were not locking type nuts. as soon as i loosened them they all came off by hand.

If you go from underneath the car, you can get to them with a socket.