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 Old 06-19-2008, 05:56 AM   #1
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Default Cobb Tuning Mazdaspeed 3 FMIC

Please discuss the Cobb FMIC review here please.
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 Old 06-19-2008, 12:26 PM   #2
 
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What did you use to primer and paint the core?

I have other questions, but I'm guessing they'll be answered in Part 2.
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Originally Posted by Haltech View Post
Stock is just plain, gay.
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 Old 06-19-2008, 12:46 PM   #3
 
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One of my subie friend recommends oven paint, would you recommend this?
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 Old 06-19-2008, 01:35 PM   #4
 
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I've used radiator paint in the past, it works well.
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Originally Posted by Haltech View Post
Stock is just plain, gay.
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 Old 06-19-2008, 01:55 PM   #5
 
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Thank you for the great write-up; I am awaiting your Part 2 so that I may make an informed decision between this unit and the one from CP-E.
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 Old 06-20-2008, 06:55 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Anklh View Post
Thank you for the great write-up; I am awaiting your Part 2 so that I may make an informed decision between this unit and the one from CP-E.
cosign.

haltech said it takes 5-6 hours to do? is that just being very thorough wondering if this can be a 2 hour "make it look like stock to take it to the dealer-quick mod" once you do it once or twice.
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 Old 06-19-2008, 05:08 PM   #7
 
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My main concern on the front mounts for our MS3 is that many companies are passing the hot side of the piping to the right side (driver side), and the cold side on the left side (passenger side). And the proble is that when the cold side reached the Throttle body, the hot side passes near by and this heats the cold pipe.

I think that a better way to go in the fabrication of an intercooler piping, is the hot side on the left side, and the cold side to the right side, and the lenght of the cold side to the throttle body will be way much shorter.
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 Old 06-28-2008, 09:52 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by AlExTEK View Post
My main concern on the front mounts for our MS3 is that many companies are passing the hot side of the piping to the right side (driver side), and the cold side on the left side (passenger side). And the proble is that when the cold side reached the Throttle body, the hot side passes near by and this heats the cold pipe.

I think that a better way to go in the fabrication of an intercooler piping, is the hot side on the left side, and the cold side to the right side, and the lenght of the cold side to the throttle body will be way much shorter.
I can assure you that there is nothing to be concerned about with the pre/post I/C piping being located close to each other. The heat transfer between them will be absolutely negligible.
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 Old 06-19-2008, 05:34 PM   #9
 
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By the way, has anyone done a custom intercooler set up?
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 Old 06-19-2008, 07:24 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by SLS MS3 View Post
What did you use to primer and paint the core?

I have other questions, but I'm guessing they'll be answered in Part 2.
I used basic primer i had in a can that i used on another project a few months ago. As far as paint, i used a semi gloss paint designed for painting frame pieces on cars.. This stuff is very durable with a semi gloss. You need to choose your paint wisely if you want any sort of longevity out of it.

Originally Posted by AlExTEK View Post
My main concern on the front mounts for our MS3 is that many companies are passing the hot side of the piping to the right side (driver side), and the cold side on the left side (passenger side). And the proble is that when the cold side reached the Throttle body, the hot side passes near by and this heats the cold pipe.

I think that a better way to go in the fabrication of an intercooler piping, is the hot side on the left side, and the cold side to the right side, and the lenght of the cold side to the throttle body will be way much shorter.
Well, there is a reason why the cold and hot pipes are done this way and that is because of the available room down there. Yo say that the cold pipe is getting heated by the passing pipe is absolutely silly and pure speculation.
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 Old 06-19-2008, 10:30 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by Haltech View Post
I used basic primer i had in a can that i used on another project a few months ago. As far as paint, i used a semi gloss paint designed for painting frame pieces on cars.. This stuff is very durable with a semi gloss. You need to choose your paint wisely if you want any sort of longevity out of it.



Well, there is a reason why the cold and hot pipes are done this way and that is because of the available room down there. Yo say that the cold pipe is getting heated by the passing pipe is absolutely silly and pure speculation.
Well it's my point of view, and to me its not silly since you have a hot side near a cold side. The way the companies does them its for an easy fabrication and for good results of course, but if they can just make it like the EvoX I think it would work better. The cold side should ALWAYS be the shortest one. With time I've made research on intercoolers and piping and beleive me, been there done that. I've had on my Mirage "Spearco, OEM EVO 6, Yonaka and now Precision Turbo", and the best core has been Precision Turbo, but Spearco it also great. Anyway I hope somebody will make a perfect setup for us with time, but I'll cost $.

Currently the best intercooler made for our MS3 is Cobb Tuning front mount with Spearco and also an intercooler that looks nice, but I dont know of the quality is TurboXS front mount. But like I say, if they change slightly the piping it would work better.
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 Old 06-20-2008, 08:13 AM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by Haltech View Post
I used basic primer i had in a can that i used on another project a few months ago. As far as paint, i used a semi gloss paint designed for painting frame pieces on cars.. This stuff is very durable with a semi gloss. You need to choose your paint wisely if you want any sort of longevity out of it.



Well, there is a reason why the cold and hot pipes are done this way and that is because of the available room down there. Yo say that the cold pipe is getting heated by the passing pipe is absolutely silly and pure speculation.

when you have a hot pipe going that close to a cold pipe obviouslly you will have some heat transfer there.

maybe cobb preferred to sacrifice that type of heat transfer because of the little room we have under the hood and maybe they work out the coating and the pipes to reduce that kind of heating.


any dattalogging or temp reading from the upper cold pipe? after that path close to the hot side?
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 Old 06-20-2008, 08:23 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by zpeedfreak View Post
when you have a hot pipe going that close to a cold pipe obviouslly you will have some heat transfer there.

maybe cobb preferred to sacrifice that type of heat transfer because of the little room we have under the hood and maybe they work out the coating and the pipes to reduce that kind of heating.


any dattalogging or temp reading from the upper cold pipe? after that path close to the hot side?
I dont have any of that type of data logging equipment with $2500 thermocouples to pull that off. Anytime air moves, whether its hot or cold, it will heat up. Since these cars were never designed to have front mounts, its very difficult to design a system that will obviously separate both hot & cold sides.
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 Old 06-20-2008, 08:28 AM   #14
 
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That is a reading that should be performed. A part from the reading before the intercooler and after the intecooler, there should be a reading near the throttle body, just to see the diference in increased temperature after it passes the hot pipe.

just my 2 cents! ;o)
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 Old 06-20-2008, 08:35 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by AlExTEK View Post
That is a reading that should be performed. A part from the reading before the intercooler and after the intecooler, there should be a reading near the throttle body, just to see the diference in increased temperature after it passes the hot pipe.

just my 2 cents! ;o)
Well you kick me down the funds and we can do it Not to mention, the replacement of my pipes afterwards because it will look ugly as sin with plugs everywhere the T-couplers were installed.

i can see this test being done on a wide selection of FMIC's at one time.. perhaps, one day we will get to that stage, but so far, its baby steps.

Believe me, i would LOVE to have $15,000 in test equipment. First thing i would do with it is independent temp readings on each exhaust port.
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 Old 06-20-2008, 08:52 AM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by Haltech View Post
Well you kick me down the funds and we can do it Not to mention, the replacement of my pipes afterwards because it will look ugly as sin with plugs everywhere the T-couplers were installed.

i can see this test being done on a wide selection of FMIC's at one time.. perhaps, one day we will get to that stage, but so far, its baby steps.

Believe me, i would LOVE to have $15,000 in test equipment. First thing i would do with it is independent temp readings on each exhaust port.
I wish I could have also the money or equipment LOL.

But I hope that one day, these companies can measure the temp by the TB, and if its not significant no problem.

At least we have companies motivated with our MS3.
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 Old 09-12-2008, 02:46 PM   #17
 
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Default What fmic will fit with injen cold air intake?????

I have injen cold air intake and was wondering what fmic will fit with it??
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 Old 10-11-2008, 02:23 PM   #18
 
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What intake was used in the testing of the FMIC? There are pictures with the MS CAI and some with the SRI. Which one was on the car when the temp data was captured?
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 Old 10-11-2008, 07:24 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Speedy3 View Post
What intake was used in the testing of the FMIC? There are pictures with the MS CAI and some with the SRI. Which one was on the car when the temp data was captured?
SRI... i changed the ballgame by tossing the MSCAI in there.
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 Old 10-12-2008, 12:47 AM   #20
 
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Originally Posted by Haltech View Post
SRI... i changed the ballgame by tossing the MSCAI in there.
Ok, that explains the high boost to ambient differential temps. The best I saw in your data was about 30 deg F differential. I am seeing 15-20 deg F differential with a TMIC and CAI (and a bunch of coated parts). Yes, I will heat soak at a stop light, but still, here's my beef:

Anyways, the Cobb SRI seems to be counter-productive to the FMIC. Why design such a perfect FMIC, then degrade it with hot engine compartment air? Cobb needs to make an air duct from the front scoop under the hood to really call it a "short ram intake" and get cooler air. A stock airbox or SRI pulls in higher intake temps than a CAI. It just makes sense, if you are going to spend the $$ for a FMIC, you want lower charge temps, so why pull in hot air with the SRI?

I'd really like to see a retest with a CAI.....I guarrantee you Haltech, you will see huge differences. Also, wrap or ceramic coat the boost tubes and see what difference that makes. You can get boost temps WAYYYYYY down if you do those things. You can also get the core heat dispersant treated to improve the heat transfer of the core.

At the least, do another test with the CAI.....
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 Old 10-12-2008, 02:11 AM   #21
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i did the test with a CAI... a MS one.. When i ran my test, we were in a heat wave down here.
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MSF -The HARDCORE Of Mazda High Performance Tech!
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 Old 10-24-2008, 08:16 AM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by Haltech View Post
i did the test with a CAI... a MS one.. When i ran my test, we were in a heat wave down here.
so its safe to say that the AEM or MS CAI will bolt up fine with the Cobb FMIC?
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 Old 11-04-2008, 05:08 PM   #23
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here http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...tercooler.html
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 Old 03-02-2009, 12:40 PM   #24
 
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Hello,
i have now a CP-E CAI and a ETS TMIC, but i would like to go with the Cobb FMIC. Did the Cobb FMIC fits with the CP-E CAI?

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