ATR User Manual: Hybrid Tuning for Noobs to Early Advanced - Noddy's Guide

[MD1032]

Inquisitive, I have to say, I'm a big fan of your little project here. This thread should be a sticky. You deserve some credit for the hours you've put into this thing. I've read the whole thing a couple times now. Each time I absorb a little more. It's hard to cover all this information, but hell, at least someone's trying. I feel obligated to learn this stuff for the sake of understanding how this works, not just because it's part of the price tag of the AP. I'm too chicken to fool with my own tune at this time, though.

I ran the economy tune for a while but abandoned it pretty quickly after the rev limiter scared the shit out of me a few times. I'd get anywhere from 9-12 psi max depending on the day.

[Inquisitive]

Originally Posted by Enki Not really. If the canister is hot, it will push less. Freezing cold, way more. There have been "factory freak" turbos capable of pushing way more than that stock. Also elevation plays a factor in how much you make with 0% wgdc. The only way to know for sure what your spring pressure is, is to test it.

Thanks – I was afraid of that.

Cobb further states that we can only hit double the actuator spring’s tension. My K04 hits 22.73 psi at sea level on 95 RON without KR, which I hold, then taper. Double my “virtual” (if I may) actuator’s spring of 12.47 is 24.94. So, 22.73 psi is possible according to Cobb’s actuator pressure axiom, but the area under the K04’s curve suggests that 22 psi is the max (yes, perhaps a Unicorn). My follow-on question is that when purchasing a BT, shouldn’t one choose (or adjust if external) the highest waste-gate actuator spring setting offered?

[udntknw]

finally got around to checking this out. its not a big deal, but the Knock Decay Magnitude and Decay rate are labeled as "delay magnitude" and "delay rate".

[Enki]

Originally Posted by Inquisitive Thanks – I was afraid of that. Cobb further states that we can only hit double the actuator spring’s tension. My K04 hits 22.73 psi at sea level on 95 RON without KR, which I hold, then taper. Double my “virtual” (if I may) actuator’s spring of 12.47 is 24.94. So, 22.73 psi is possible according to Cobb’s actuator pressure axiom, but the area under the K04’s curve suggests that 22 psi is the max (yes, perhaps a Unicorn). My follow-on question is that when purchasing a BT, shouldn’t one choose (or adjust if external) the highest waste-gate actuator spring setting offered?

This depends too; when talking about the K04, RPM is a factor here. With boost source at the turbo, I could only hit 17 PSI on pump gas @ 6k RPM. On 50/50, I can only hit 14.5-15 PSI depending on weather. On full corn, I could only make 12 PSI at the same RPM in the winter.

[Inquisitive]

Originally Posted by MD1032 Inquisitive, I have to say, I'm a big fan of your little project here.

Hey, thanks, it is still a journey for me too. I have since discovered some more hybrid secrets perhaps more aptly called blending, of the beast (more power) and beauty (more economy), but I am unsure where to put this ignition and AFR info. Maybe a new section would be appropriate. It appears that we can have our cake and eat it too.

Originally Posted by MD1032 I ran the economy tune for a while but abandoned it pretty quickly after the rev limiter scared the shit out of me a few times.

Most probably for psychological reasons, I must admit to changing the rev limiter to 5800 rpms for the runs (WOT and MAF calibrations), but I left the speed limiter at 80 mph.

Originally Posted by MD1032 I'd get anywhere from 9-12 psi max depending on the day.

I suspect that with a sufficient volume of data and known environmental variables (Enki), a proportional proxy could be determined and laid against the actual spring pressure, but to what purpose?

[Enki]

Originally Posted by Inquisitive ...but to what purpose?

Exactly.

[shamie]

Originally Posted by Inquisitive My follow-on question is that when purchasing a BT, shouldn’t one choose (or adjust if external) the highest waste-gate actuator spring setting offered?

No you should pick your spring to be 1/2 to 3/4 of your targeted boost so you'll still have some control with your ECBS.

[Inquisitive]

Originally Posted by Enki This depends too; when talking about the K04, RPM is a factor here. With boost source at the turbo, I could only hit 17 PSI on pump gas @ 6k RPM. On 50/50, I can only hit 14.5-15 PSI depending on weather. On full corn, I could only make 12 PSI at the same RPM in the winter.

I hit 22.73 psi at 3500 rpms, which appears to be related to my OCC filling up too soon (~850 kms / 500 miles). I think the PCV Plate is going into siphon mode rather than ring failure (no black smoke with just cat-2). I am scheduling a compression and leak down test to confirm my denial. If I am proved correct, then I suspect a VTA won’t help.

Originally Posted by udntknw finally got around to checking this out. its not a big deal, but the Knock Decay Magnitude and Decay rate are labeled as "delay magnitude" and "delay rate".

Thanks, good catch, corrected for next version

[Inquisitive]

Originally Posted by shamie No you should pick your spring to be 1/2 to 3/4 of your targeted boost so you'll still have some control with your ECBS.

Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for.

[Inquisitive]

ATR User Manual for Hybrid Tuning

Version 1.01.r

• KR (knock retard) saves motors. (Putin 2.3T) in Ignition Advance
• Added problem / solution table, plugs,TP coolant bypass and spill valve to Knock
• Added note on not being able to transfer data-logs with file size N/A in How to Datalog
• Moved Normal Progression of Modifications (Stages) and Abbreviations / Acronyms / Glossary and Mazda 3 OBD Codes to separate documents
• Added Sections: Decelerating KR, Spreadsheet MAF Calibration, Blended (Power / Economy), Compression and Leak-Down Tests
• Finished results table to Econ-7 and interpretation in More Economy
• Typo corrected: changed Delay to Decay in Knock Tables > Knock Retard - Decay Magnitude and Rate A & B (udntknw)

Normal Progression of Modifications (Stages)

Version 1.00.l

• Sample size stabilising / stabilised
• Quantified heat soaking in Intercooler (MSMS3)
• BPV / BOV intros enhanced (irishking03)
• Added to Cat-less intro (MS3-a(sore)ASS-rex)
• Added “stock or BT” fitment to Corksport DP
• Added TurboXS, Vibrant, HKS, XForce to CBE
• Expanded Ziggo’s EGR Delete explanation
• FJ Motorsports (previously PG) in IC and PMM (not available)
• Added part number for Ford RMM
• Warning issued for Minervra Motorwerkz TMM
• Added DIY SRI / TIP and Battery Trays to accommodate wide Intake Kits Sections
• Added AWR & Damond Motorsports to PMM
• Added AWR & TRZ to TMM
• Added AutoExe to ABE
• Added Bypass Valve Hose Section and three vendors: JBR, CP-E and CS
• Added bending of Wiseco oil squirters, Molnar, Posifab and Manley to Forged Pistons
• Added DCR VVT, Lucas Break-in oil
• Added Treadstone, DOC Race and Boost Junkyz to Upgraded Exhaust Manifold
• Added SpeedPerf6manc3 to BSD
• Added ARP types with warning and SpeedPerf6manc3 L19 Head Studs to Main Studs
• Added Molnar to Con Rods
• Added new section: Main Bearings with Clevite Bearings
• Added new section: Rod Bearings with King & Clevite Bearings
• Added SpeedPerf6manc3 and note CS discontinued to Camshaft & Valve Springs
• Added Kozmic Motorsports K27 5th and 6th Port Injection Kits and InjectorRX to Larger fuel injectors
• Added descriptions (and “How it works” links) to Bars, Rear (and Front) Sway Bars, End-links, Front Strut, Rear Camber Arms, Mid-Chassis Brace, Front Traction Bars
• Added Racing Beat and Hotchkis to Front Sway-Bar
• Added Steeda and Racing Beat to End-links
• Added Performance Autowerksracing Chassis Brace to Mid-Chassis Brace
• Added GTSPEC, Autoexe and Ultra Racing to Front Traction Bars
• Added CorkSport, TB Performance and Ultra Racing to Rear Strut Bars
• Added new section: Front Adjustable Camber and CorkSport
• Added Skid Plates section and CorkSport
• Added GTSPEC and Ultra Racing to Other Bars

Abbreviations / Acronyms / Glossary and Mazda 3 OBD Codes

Version 1.01.r

• Added Boost Junkyz, DCR, DOC Race, King, LuK Clutch, Manley (available from), McMaster-Carr, Molnar, Piasini, Steeda, tuned to Glossary

I’ve been busy, see below, but gleaning from the experience helped to update this OP.

New Threads:

The Official Turbo Manifold Thread - Exhaust Manifold, Port & Polish and Intake Manifold
The Official Turbo Manifold Thread

Official Suspension Bars and Braces Thread - Bars, but not the thirst-quenching kind, & Braces, but not the kind that hold up pants
Official Suspension Bars and Braces Thread

The Official Engine Build Components Thread - Blown Engine?
The Official Engine Build Components Thread

Updated the following:

The Motor Mount Thread
The Motor Mount Thread
Moved to OP
The Motor Mount Thread

THE OFFICIAL INTAKE THREAD!!
THE OFFICIAL INTAKE THREAD!!
Moved to OP
THE OFFICIAL INTAKE THREAD!!

BOV/BPV Thread
BOV/BPV Thread
Moved to OP
BOV/BPV Thread

The Official Gen 1/2 Mazdaspeed 3 Intercooler Thread
The Official Gen 1/2 Mazdaspeed 3 Intercooler Thread
Moved to OP
The Official Gen 1/2 Mazdaspeed 3 Intercooler Thread

The Official Downpipe/Test Pipe/Race Pipe Thread
The Official Downpipe/Test Pipe/Race Pipe Thread
Moved to OP
The Official Downpipe/Test Pipe/Race Pipe Thread

Official Gen One MS3 CBE Thread!!
Official Gen One MS3 CBE Thread!!
Moved to OP
Official Gen One MS3 CBE Thread!!

[Raider]

Stuck and KB made
http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...s-early-187756

adding to list of FAQ Threads
http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...ow-make-99362/

[ScreaminKeenan]

This is my 2nd time on the Forum. (I can't seem to get into my old paid member account from 2014) but the one problem I've always had when it comes to tunning a speed3 is the internet "code" language.

I've been wrenching on cars since the 90's and have had everything from an turbo 140 '65 corvair to a laid out '81 C-10 with a big block, I even had a Skyline (when I was stationed in Okinawa) for a few months.

I'm still in the Military served all over the place, I'm married with kids, and since I moved into this little hot-hatch I've noticed there isn't the local "speed shop" vibe when it comes to cars anymore.

Learning this new language is the biggest challenge I've had. I've been searching everywhere for this glossary of terms. Thanks!

[MS3Shadow]

Originally Posted by ScreaminKeenan This is my 2nd time on the Forum. (I can't seem to get into my old paid member account from 2014) but the one problem I've always had when it comes to tunning a speed3 is the internet "code" language. I've been wrenching on cars since the 90's and have had everything from an turbo 140 '65 corvair to a laid out '81 C-10 with a big block, I even had a Skyline (when I was stationed in Okinawa) for a few months. I'm still in the Military served all over the place, I'm married with kids, and since I moved into this little hot-hatch I've noticed there isn't the local "speed shop" vibe when it comes to cars anymore. Learning this new language is the biggest challenge I've had. I've been searching everywhere for this glossary of terms. Thanks!

You can't have duplicate accounts here.

If you need help getting into your old account. Contact @SofaKingAwesome;

sent from my Nexus 6P

[ScreaminKeenan]

Thanks for the help! I ended up creating this account just to get some help on my AP tune.

[SofaKingAwesome]

Keenan,
What's your old account under?

[Dommo14]

@ejb2112; here is what i was talking about.

[ejb2112]

Originally Posted by Dommo14 @ejb2112; here is what i was talking about.

Too funny. Ten minutes after we texted, I found this. Of course, UNDERSTANDING it is a whole different ballgame...

[boyracermk]

Hi folks. Newbie here in ATR tuning. And a big big thanks to you for sharing these precious guides to guide newbies like us.

I am from malaysia, and drives a Speed6 (Mazdaspeed Atenza). Nice to meet u all.

Originally Posted by Inquisitive With special thanks to @rfinkle2; Rob – thanks for all the links To eTuners Instead of flaming noobs, rather refer them to this manual. However, I need your assistance in providing the correct advice. In attempting to summarise what you have said, I may have missed the relevant points or not understand what you were saying. I have also made many assumptions. This was just my frustrating account. Oh! I have probably missed quoting some sources correctly. Please let me know to whom the credit should go. Also, I request your assistance on where data-logs can assist with diagnosing mechanical problems. To Noobs Enjoy (hopefully). This manual should save you at least 600 pages of reading. Please provide me with feedback where more clarity is needed. To Cobb The attached material is free to use without consent from the author and this link may be used (hint) in better presenting your great products (no really). However, recognition should be given to this Forum if the material is used as part of a publication.