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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score While I wait for my custom tune from PD Tuning I want to at least drive the car so I can still get to places. By no means do I aim to be WOT or at high boost, I just need the car to get me from point A to point B. The way I see it this is how I should get it working for the time being: 1. Disconnect BCS from harness to force wastegate spring pressure. 2. Flash Safe Mode tune from Cobb’s selection of OTS tunes. 3. Reinput MAP scalars for 3.5 bar sensor in said OTS map. 4. Reinput MAF calibration for my specific intake. Would I be safe to drive the car like that for a while (a week at most)? I don’t believe there is anything else I need to change in the map but I’m open to suggestions. Plus, I’m not sure where to get the MAP scalars, in Corksport’s installation guide it says “see MAP”, so I’m assuming it will have A, B, and offset on the sensor itself or something? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Why not just ask pd for a a base map while you wait. I am assuming you cant make your own map due to cobbs bs or can you? If you can then do a maf cal and zero out the wgdc tables. Just use the oem map sensor and 2 port mode so the ecu can have control over the turbo. Shit just get a manual boost controller and set it to 10 psi......
__________________ MECP 2012 BM PTE 5858 Vband .82ar // Tial EWG // CPE Mani // 3" Turboback // JBR Under route hot pipe // MD ST mani+spacer with PI // Siemens 60lb Injectors // Splitsecond inj controller // JBR 88 duro RMM/TMM // MD PMM // TWM Full replacement shifter // JBR CC // Autotech FP Internals // SP63 SB/Manley rods SP63 pro pistons // Treadstone FMIC TR824 // FoMoCo Tranny Jizz // South Bend Clutch Stage 3 enduro// GFB Respons // FJ 4" intake // WMI 100% VPM1 // Air Lift 1000 in rear // N2MB WOT BOX Rfinkle tune in progress The Brooklyn beater: 2005 1.8 Auto Sentra |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Your "safe tune" is your stock tune with WGDC set to zero across the board, setting MAP values, and copy/paste MAF tables. Spring pressure on the CS turbo is 10-12 psi. You shouldn't hit load cut in your Texas summer heat.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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| I feel like we've discussed this in another thread already. You need a custom tune for your increased MAF housing diameter and your increased MAP capabilities. You cannot safely run the stock or any other OTS map with a 3.5" intake and a 3.5Bar MAP sensor. However, modifying an OTS map to include the appropriate 3.5Bar MAP scalars and scaling the MAF tables for a 3.5" intake should at least allow the car to run moderately safely. That said . . . you really do need a custom tune. Edit: I was right. Tune with WG Spring Pressure BNR S4v2 Base Map You keep bringing up the same issue in each thread in which you comment lately, @achulz;. TAKE. THE. HINT. 1. You CANNOT run an OTS map safely. 2. You CANNOT run a tune made by someone else on the forum because ATR is VIN/AP-serial number locked. That means maps that I make in ATR are NOT useable in your car. You WILL NOT be able to load them to your ECU.
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However the risks are pretty big if you enter boost because your current tune has WGDC tables way too aggressive for the new turbo and EBCS setup. Also, the factory MAP sensor calibration will read lower manifold pressure on aftermarket MAP sensors, which means you will only have load limit protection, not boost limit protection. And the load limits are usually set pretty high. So it takes only one push of the accel pedal once to hurt your engine. I think a safer temporary approach would be to connect your boost source hose directly to the wastegate and cap the corresponding port on the EBCS. this was you will run on spring pressure and 14-15PSI across the board is perfectly ok (tested) on an OTS tune (not on the factory tune though).
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score He already has a tune for his intake. I suggested starting with the stock tune because the timing tables are likely less agressive and the fuel tables are excessively rich. Just copy/paste his current MAFcal, input values for the new MAP sensor, and wipe the WGDC table.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Fstrnyou For This Useful Post: | Vansquish (07-13-2018) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Because you cannot go mechanically below the WG spring, you need to live with that amount of boost possibility, regardless of what you do. To 0 out the WG duty, you can do it software but it can get tricky without all it needs....Disconnecting the wire to the EBCS do exactly that if the plumbing is right. If not, just connecting WG to turbo discharge and call it done. For the Maf scalar, I read that it is the same intake. So it would not be a big deal. If not, just fit the smaller maf hosing until he can get the scalar done for a 3.5 inch maf. I would never drive with a 3.5'' tuned for a 2.65''...it is a direct call for ZZB. G/s drop by 80% so load drop calling for more timing and less fuel for the same conditions.... For the MAP, i would just drive with the oem one until the tune is made for it. it cost 0$ to keep it until he is ready to increase boost above 2x psi. Another option i tough about but never tried would be to use the BPV as a relief valve. if you disconnect the top port. As soon as boost would beat the spring pressure, it will open and drop the boost. Bad side could be to stress the turbo thrust bearing if you lift the gaz too fast. (I had in mind a temporary measure with an aftermarket BPV and a weak spring but....It begin to get tricky.....(Maybe it is why you can buy a Stratified Guardian Angel to manage both conditions...)...
__________________ Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better... 2007 rusted Speed6... Forged with meth and a 3076 in progress... 1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB 2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts 1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup Wife drive 2010 CX7 2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it) ...Because French Canadian... If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks.... Last edited by Jeff23spl; 07-16-2018 at 07:48 AM. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Jeff23spl For This Useful Post: | Vansquish (07-13-2018) |
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This is why I mentioned "if the intake is the same", because the turbo upgrade will not affect the MAF cal, nor will do the rest of the mods from his list.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI | |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to mituc For This Useful Post: | Vansquish (07-13-2018) |
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I didnt ask you if you can modify a ots tune. I said can you modify maps period since Cobb instated the inability to make custom maps without takeing a course offered by them. Then you ignored the fact that i gave you a solution that will work ...... ok follow me now... You modify a map until you get a custom tune . Do a maf cal. Setup a 2 port mode on the ebcs. Zero out the wgdc. Then wait until you get tuned........ Or just get a manual boost controller. What is so difficult? Get a junk yard ko4 until you have a base map in hand. Make a map that will work from the mounds of tuning info available on this site. Do what they did back in the day and get a MBC. Get a uber. Eat a dick. Use ben gay in place of lube. Idk man its not like this is a rb26 swap into a cressida its just a simple change to a map or hard part.
__________________ MECP 2012 BM PTE 5858 Vband .82ar // Tial EWG // CPE Mani // 3" Turboback // JBR Under route hot pipe // MD ST mani+spacer with PI // Siemens 60lb Injectors // Splitsecond inj controller // JBR 88 duro RMM/TMM // MD PMM // TWM Full replacement shifter // JBR CC // Autotech FP Internals // SP63 SB/Manley rods SP63 pro pistons // Treadstone FMIC TR824 // FoMoCo Tranny Jizz // South Bend Clutch Stage 3 enduro// GFB Respons // FJ 4" intake // WMI 100% VPM1 // Air Lift 1000 in rear // N2MB WOT BOX Rfinkle tune in progress The Brooklyn beater: 2005 1.8 Auto Sentra Last edited by 5doorsoffury; 07-14-2018 at 04:24 PM. Reason: Huuked on fonix didnt werk for me | |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to 5doorsoffury For This Useful Post: | Vansquish (07-14-2018) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm starting to put my money on him not having ATR.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Fstrnyou For This Useful Post: | Vansquish (07-14-2018) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Oh wait, you can't even change a MAF cal on the Cobb OTS tunes? Or do they provide some OTSs with MAF cals for various intakes? In this case using Cobb AP and not having hired a tuner who's ready to send you a map just to get out of the shop is not going to send it...
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to mituc For This Useful Post: | kTaLgsTo (07-15-2018) |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Since for some reason you all think I can’t edit the OTS maps, I went ahead and used my plan anyways. I’ve been driving the car for about a week, and yes I have ordered a tune just waiting on the base map now. It seems like a lot of people jump to conclusions because they don’t fully understand what I’m asking. I was going to edit the OTS map in the first place to calibrate for my MAF and MAP, which I did. I zeroed our the WGDC so it peaks at about 10-12 PSI. Car runs fine, no knock or unusual numbers. People saying ‘you can’t use other people’s maps’, of course I can’t. I’m not stupid, I know that, what I was asking is if there was any OTS style tune for big turbos like mine. Anyway I figured it out, I’m just waiting for my tune right now. Only one other thing, I installed the 3.5 bar MAP today and set the scalars in ATR, exactly as they read on the MAP sensor itself. Though it seems to read lower boost pressure, not sure what that’s about. With the stock MAP it would read 12.1-12.7 PSI peak, where as now it reads 10.1 peak. I’m no expert but it seems like something is off, don’t know if it was the stock MAP or my new one. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to achulz For This Useful Post: | Vansquish (07-21-2018) |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I have ATR, I even paid for it through their ‘training’. Lol, you guys call me an idiot and then suggest the exact same fucking thing I originally said in my OP. Load OTS map with modified MAF, MAP, and WGDC. It’s like to get an answer on this forum calling someone a fucking dumbass is required first. I’m starting to put my money on most guys here not having a clue what they’re talking about and verbally abusing people over some forums to cover for it. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Use mechanical boost gauge to verify. Your low altitude should be adequate since mechanical gauges are calibrated for sea level. As mentioned MANY times, OTS tunes are junk. I suggested modifying your stock tune because the timing is likely more conservative, AFRs are richer, and load targets are lower. Should be quite safe.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Fstrnyou For This Useful Post: | Vansquish (07-21-2018) |
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Are you a fuckin retard? Since you paid cobb to be taught how to tune and have accsess to atr just to get tuned on locked maps you must be retarted... In that case no it is not safe to drive around on a map you modified. Well since thay was the only question you had i hope you had fun paying for cobbs master training then coming here asking if its safe for you to touch a map.
__________________ MECP 2012 BM PTE 5858 Vband .82ar // Tial EWG // CPE Mani // 3" Turboback // JBR Under route hot pipe // MD ST mani+spacer with PI // Siemens 60lb Injectors // Splitsecond inj controller // JBR 88 duro RMM/TMM // MD PMM // TWM Full replacement shifter // JBR CC // Autotech FP Internals // SP63 SB/Manley rods SP63 pro pistons // Treadstone FMIC TR824 // FoMoCo Tranny Jizz // South Bend Clutch Stage 3 enduro// GFB Respons // FJ 4" intake // WMI 100% VPM1 // Air Lift 1000 in rear // N2MB WOT BOX Rfinkle tune in progress The Brooklyn beater: 2005 1.8 Auto Sentra | ||
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That is, if you're asking, "Is it safe to modify a stock or OTS map for my new turbo, intake, and MAP sensor?", then it would be useful to know if you have access to ATR. I would gladly have pointed you in the right direction, but you kept asking things in a way that was cryptic and didn't indicate that you A) knew anything about tuning this platform or about the way that ATR works, and B) that you had access to and (at least in theory) knew how to use ATR. With that all in mind, the answer to your questions is "yes." You can safely modify the OTS and/or stock map to safely run your new turbo, intake, and MAP sensor. There are a couple of good tuning guides on the forum here that will teach you to tune your car yourself at this point. Depending on how confident you are in your understanding of the ECU, you could tune your own vehicle reasonably safely. I certainly have.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score What was the point of bragging about paying $240 for overnight shipping, when you then complained about not having money for a tune? Also, you have ATR, you seem to actually understand tuning, and know what to edit in ATR to make things work. So why are you paying someone else to do what you can do yourself? You don't have AUX fueling, meth, or anything else that may make it a bit more complicated. I say save the cash, do some more reading on here, and tune it yourself.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Been tuning mine since I was stock. Hadn't ZZB'd yet and I'm an idiot.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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![]() Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Houston
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Two, I trust myself enough to adjust simple things like MAF tables and MAP scalars, I don’t trust myself enough to adjust fuel, ignition, WGDC tables, etc. (aside from zeroing the WGDC, simple enough) I would rather leave that to the guys that have tuned many of these cars in several configurations who really know what they’re doing. Yes I understand how it works and what the changes do but I don’t trust myself to correctly adjust them. This is my daily driver and I can’t afford blowing it up because I put in a wrong number. I’d love to learn more on how to tune, but reading isn’t going to help me as much as going out and doing it myself, after all that’s the only way I really learn, something I’m not willing to risk on (currently) my only car. | |
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