Trying to dial in this tune

[Guerra88]

Hey guys,
I have been reading as much as I can the past month (abilor's and bucker's guides, a good chunk from the cobb atr discussion.)
Trying to get my self tune dialed in. MAF is good (within +/- 2.5), leaned out my fuel tables and have my peak boost set at 18 psi.
Mods are just a cpe nano and autotech internals.
Posted a couple WOT logs if anyone would be so kind to comment. BATs, IATs, and STFT are hidden columns but can be unhidden. Also have MAF cal log and can post my tables if necessary. @rfinkle2 @Bucker @f-castrillo @atvfreek (I think you were working when I was at ben's install day in brockton)
Thanks everyone!
(Oh and I started out with a cobb+cpN stage 1 93 map for the record. I ALWAYS put 93 oct in the car, usually shell, sunoco or hess with shell being preferable.)

[Bucker]

Looks pretty good! The biggest thing: How does it feel?

[Brennan]

I'm in the same boat as you as far as being fairly new to tuning with the AP and doing a shit-ton of reading and looking at other people's logs and tuning threads. That said, I see high WGDC at the end of the run with boost bouncing around below targets before tapering off, and that you didn't wind the gear all the way out to ~6500 RPM.

[Guerra88]

Yeah brennan youre right. I'm gonna do another couple WOT logs soon once this reflash settles in. (added some timing)
It feels pretty good thanks Bucker! Not as much mpg as id like to see (havent messed with ignition timing much yet) But overall Ive gotten slightly better mileage and the car feels a lot more solid than the OTS tune. (internals def helped too)
Thanks for your guide and the research you have done with a lot of these other guys, Ive adjusted my map a lot based on all that I've taken in.
In the near future I plan to mess more with ignition, install a downpipe and possibly ITV22's. Then I will probly target 18.5 psi tapering to 17.5. I'll add to this thread any new developments.

[atvfreek]

Looks pretty good. Sorry I missed out on that install day at Ben's. Glad I didn't have to deal with the po-po's though.

I wouldn't worry about the high wgdc too much. It only got in the high 90's close to 6K rpms. And even that isn't going to hurt anything. The only time I keep wgdc low along with high rom boost, is when tuning for track days/extended high rpm driving.

[rfinkle2]

The only thing that I can add is when starting with a stage 1 map, but running >/= 18 psi, I usually copy the stage2 hpfp tables in that command 1749 psi.

[Guerra88]

Yeah I havent modified fuel pressure yet, once I install the internals i was hitting up to 1800-1900 anyway but I should probably modify them anyway. Thanks!

[snailD]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 The only thing that I can add is when starting with a stage 1 map, but running >/= 18 psi, I usually copy the stage2 hpfp tables in that command 1749 psi.

what i do as well, i know cobb started cutting back and still use the 1669 to prolong the life of the relief valve i think

[fortressofcomfort]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 The only thing that I can add is when starting with a stage 1 map, but running >/= 18 psi, I usually copy the stage2 hpfp tables in that command 1749 psi.

Why? What does the stock Mazda map command? Aren't there limits to like the injectors, fuel rail, seals, lines, etc. ? Just wondering why 1600psi isn't enough.

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by fortressofcomfort Why? What does the stock Mazda map command? Aren't there limits to like the injectors, fuel rail, seals, lines, etc. ? Just wondering why 1600psi isn't enough.

The stock Mazda map commands 15.66 psi and 1669.6 psi.

The car's logic is already increasing fuel pressure once anything over 17 psi is reached.

You may also ask why isn't 1500 psi enough, or maybe 1400 psi.

I have not done the research, Cobb has, so I cannot competently answer your question.

At some point, I have to allow people who do the research to guide me as to what is the proper fuel pressure to run @ a given boost level.

[fortressofcomfort]

Well I agree that if the factory or Cobb runs it then it must be ok; but I wonder if they meant it to be run for sustained periods of time as opposed to just during boost spikes.

Just wondering because it seems more or less set in stone around here that 1600psi is the gold standard. No one has ever questioned that 1600psi is too low, at least in any post I've seen.

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by fortressofcomfort Well I agree that if the factory or Cobb runs it then it must be ok; but I wonder if they meant it to be run for sustained periods of time as opposed to just during boost spikes. Just wondering because it seems more or less set in stone around here that 1600psi is the gold standard. No one has ever questioned that 1600psi is too low, at least in any post I've seen.

@1600 psi, the afr's noticeably dip into the 9's from the excess fuel being dumped.

The logs that I've seen where a person's pump fails confirm that 1600 psi is the threshold. Immediately after <1600 psi is logged, afr's become richer, most of the time increasingly so into the 9's.

This is for gen2 only btw, gen1 cars have hpfp issues, but this 1600 psi logic is gen2 specific.

[f-castrillo]

Sorry for the late reply. I didn't notice the mention lol.

I don't see anything that puts your car in immediate danger, i.e. KR or HPFP issues. However, I noticed that your WGDC is maxxed after 5500, which is normal for a car with the major restrictors still in place (stock TMIC, downpipe, for starters). But for reliability sake, I'd probably turn down boost a tad and command 15.5-16 psi above 5500 RPM, so that WGDC doesn't see 100. You'll get varying opinions on this, as people have tested their own cars with WGDC pegged at 100% for longer, and over a greater period of time, with no issue. But I'm a little bothered by it, harmless as it's been for others, so I'd pull back on the boost in that region. The K04 just might last a little longer

Everything else looks on point. Since you're running 93 octane, you could probably experiment with advancing timing across the board.

[Guerra88]

Originally Posted by f-castrillo Sorry for the late reply. I didn't notice the mention lol. I don't see anything that puts your car in immediate danger, i.e. KR or HPFP issues. However, I noticed that your WGDC is maxxed after 5500, which is normal for a car with the major restrictors still in place (stock TMIC, downpipe, for starters). But for reliability sake, I'd probably turn down boost a tad and command 15.5-16 psi above 5500 RPM, so that WGDC doesn't see 100. You'll get varying opinions on this, as people have tested their own cars with WGDC pegged at 100% for longer, and over a greater period of time, with no issue. But I'm a little bothered by it, harmless as it's been for others, so I'd pull back on the boost in that region. The K04 just might last a little longer Everything else looks on point. Since you're running 93 octane, you could probably experiment with advancing timing across the board.

Yeah thanks, plan to at least install a downpipe this summer (gonna be catted though). I plan to advance the timing a bit since I always fill up with good gas. I adjusted some partial throttle values already like @bnoon had, but I havent noticed any difference in mpg.
I want to advance timing slightly across the board and also for the higher throttle table.

[f-castrillo]

Originally Posted by Guerra88 Yeah thanks, plan to at least install a downpipe this summer (gonna be catted though). I plan to advance the timing a bit since I always fill up with good gas. I adjusted some partial throttle values already like @bnoon had, but I havent noticed any difference in mpg. I want to advance timing slightly across the board and also for the higher throttle table.

Alot of the MPG improvements came from the AFR adjustments, so be sure to look into that too. Also, make sure the Ign Timing High Throttle and Low Throttle tables (No Knock) are set the same (as well as for the high/low throttle knocking tables set the same), to rule out extra variables between the tables.

[Guerra88]

Ok, I'll make sure the tables are set the same.
My AFR tables are pretty set now, from 1000 rpm or so to 3000 is set to 17. Its similar to what bnoon had used in his mpg thread. That did help with my mpg cruising and I have no loss to performance.

[f-castrillo]

If you start getting hesitation down low, you could also consider setting 500-1500 RPMs to 14.7:1 at the lowest load row, then vertically interpolate up to ~.31 calc load or whatever to 17:1. You're on track to success, it seems

[kritz]

Just a note on the spark plugs, the Denso plugs have been failing (ceramic nose cracking) so I suggest the NGK plugs till Denso diagnoses the issue. I pulled out one of my plugs and it had cracked but luckily it didn't fall apart while in the head.

[f-castrillo]

Originally Posted by kritz Just a note on the spark plugs, the Denso plugs have been failing (ceramic nose cracking) so I suggest the NGK plugs till Denso diagnoses the issue. I pulled out one of my plugs and it had cracked but luckily it didn't fall apart while in the head.

Is this a widespread issue? I hadn't seen anything on it, nor did I have problems with my last set of ITV22s (15k miles on them).

[kritz]

Seems to be a growing issue, @doubleflusher, myself and a few others. DJ is sending a bunch of these failed plugs back to his contact at Denso so that they can diagnose what is going on.

[Guerra88]

I have my lowest load portion set to 14.7 for fueling, at 500 rpm. Havent got any stumble or hesitation, feels the same.

Also, when adjusting ignition timing across the board, is it customary to increase the values slightly and go from there? Meaning even at the higher loads where negative values are present, would you still add a little to those cells? Thanks for all the input guys.

Thats interesting to note about the spark plugs. I was thinking about picking up step colder, especially if I continue with advancing timing and install the DP. Wasnt sure when to swap out the plugs.

[snailD]

no need to mess with the values under 3k rpm, you are not even going to be using them. also, if your going to be adjusting timing, realize that you will be able to increase more in the top end than the bottom end. the first revision you may be able to increase timing from 3.5k-redline. but you may knock at 3.5k next time if u up it another degree, where at 4k and up you still may be able to add another degree. then you will prob reach ur max at 4.5k but not at 5k next. just a heads up.

remember, go in small doses and see how your car responds. better to make 20 maps than 2 and have ur car blown up

[Guerra88]

Gotcha snailD, that input helps a lot. I have been taking baby steps with all of this, plus I like spending time messing with numbers (young engineer lol). Thats why i think Ill be fine. Ive reflashed a bunch in the past week.
For timing, I went up about a half a degree or so but where my question came from was I was hitting the global max of 60 at low loads. (table was just added in ATR I noticed)
I felt like some of the low load cells where already pretty high OTS being close to that limit. Havent had any issues but I was curious if there was an actual cut off where too much timing would be pointless even if you werent knocking.

[snailD]

Originally Posted by Guerra88 Gotcha snailD, that input helps a lot. I have been taking baby steps with all of this, plus I like spending time messing with numbers (young engineer lol). Thats why i think Ill be fine. Ive reflashed a bunch in the past week. For timing, I went up about a half a degree or so but where my question came from was I was hitting the global max of 60 at low loads. (table was just added in ATR I noticed) I felt like some of the low load cells where already pretty high OTS being close to that limit. Havent had any issues but I was curious if there was an actual cut off where too much timing would be pointless even if you werent knocking.

there is and thats why tuning on a dyno is nice. you can find out MBT, i know there are a few ppl that have not gone past 17-18 degrees on the dyno because it produced no extra power. as far as timing changes. worry about your open loop area, more specifically max power areas. i work from max load to least load. increasing at the bottom and smoothing to the top. i wouldnt mess with the part throttle timing a whole lot. there is some info about it in the high milage thread.