New stage 2 CP-e rear motor mount

[peter_parker8740]

ANYONE THINKING OF GET ONE? I MOST LIKELY AM?


Mazda3 / MazdaSPEED3 Stage2 Wishbone Engine Mount | Custom Performance Engineering


Mazda3 / MazdaSPEED3 Stage2 Wishbone Engine Mount

MM3AWBM2
Price: $198.00


It is well known that the stock rear motor mount on the MS3 is a weak link and cp-e™ has chosen to think outside the box on this and come up with a completely new design. To do this cp-e™ carefully studied the layout of the stock MS3 Engine Mounts. While designing the side engine mounts it was determined that a better design could be achieved on the rear mount as well.

The way the Mazda engine mount system works is that the two side mounts provide a rotational mounting point, if just these two mounts are installed without a lower engine mount the bottom of the engine is free to swing like a pendulum. Now if you take the stock engine mount and put it in place with its horizontally mounted bushing and you apply some power, it will stop the engine from swinging but you are now stressing the bushing in two directions. These types of bushing are not really meant for this.

So cp-e™ came up with a way to stress the bushing in only one direction, by remaking both sides of the engine mount cp-e™ was able to mount the bushing vertically so now the pendulum affect of the engine is stretching or pushing in only one direction. This also increases the durability of the engine mount substantially.

To accomplish this two blocks of aluminum, starting at 15.81 lbs are slowly whittled down over the course of a couple of hours in our CNC machine to a final weight of 3.53 lbs. This process takes a lot of time but was necessary to give our customers what they want.

Features

Billet CNC construction
EPDM Bushing to protect rubber from overheating
Stainless Hardware
Vertically mounted bushing increase’s durability.
Machined additional pockets to create lightweight but strong mount.
Step by step installation directions

[Schmitty5]

Was looking at this too, could've gotten 40 bucks off it if you ordered it yesterday.. oh well, want to hear input before diving in

[Nliiitend1]

I ordered one.

They're claiming it is no more harsh than the 75a conventional mount, yet it offers more support. We shall see.

[J-Liss]

[peter_parker8740]

ya did care to look nets very very slow in afghanistan....

[J-Liss]

Originally Posted by peter_parker8740 ya did care to look nets very very slow in afghanistan....

id check your modem for a bomb then

[DaDoctor]

I just upgraded my CP-e 60 RMM to the new CP-e Wishbone mount. I can def say its a vast inprovement. Before the upgrade, during launches I was getting a alot missed shifts going from 2nd to 3rd. The problem is gone and it just seems like the car has way more responsivness. Car vibrations are not bad at all and my magnaflow exhaust seems to sound louder for some reason now. Upgrading the side mounts after january...still debating between cp-e or jbr. Hope this helps any of you looking to possibly get this mount.

[Schmitty5]

Originally Posted by DaDoctor I just upgraded my CP-e 60 RMM to the new CP-e Wishbone mount. I can def say its a vast inprovement. Before the upgrade, during launches I was getting a alot missed shifts going from 2nd to 3rd. The problem is gone and it just seems like the car has way more responsivness. Car vibrations are not bad at all and my magnaflow exhaust seems to sound louder for some reason now. Upgrading the side mounts after january...still debating between cp-e or jbr. Hope this helps any of you looking to possibly get this mount.

How was the install?

[DaDoctor]

Really simple and self explanatory. Same as any RMM install. Had to use the handle to my floor jack to pry the engine forward slightly to line up the bolt that connects the two pieces.

[Daftboy]

have any pictures of it installed ? PS nice lis. plate

[DaDoctor]

Sorry, no pics of the install. The instructions that CP-e includes will more than suffice. That being said, I absolutly love this mount. With the old CP-e 60a mount, I would get some pretty annoying intermittant vibrations during idle (No AC on). With the new mount installed, they are gone. The only time the vibrations get a tad annoying is during stop-n-go traffic when I should be in a lower gear. Thats 100% human error and me sucking at life . I hope this makes sense. Looking forward to after the holidays when I can get my other two mounts upgraded.

[Nliiitend1]

I just put mine on. I've only driven around the block so far, but I think I'm going to LOVE this mount.

I've had OEM, OEM+ CS inserts, the CP-e 60a RMM, and the CP-e 75a RMM before this, and this is the first one that provides seamless, smooth behavior during on/off throttle transitions. The car's responsiveness at tip-in from a stop is much smoother and more seamless as well (as would be expected).

I've noticed a very very very (that's 3 "very"s) slight increase in cabin vibrations/noise over the 75a conventional mount, but it's nothing worth writing home about, and I'll gladly put up with it for the awesome transitional behavior it exhibits.

[Schmitty5]

Originally Posted by Nliiitend1 I just put mine on. I've only driven around the block so far, but I think I'm going to LOVE this mount. I've had OEM, OEM+ CS inserts, the CP-e 60a RMM, and the CP-e 75a RMM before this, and this is the first one that provides seamless, smooth behavior during on/off throttle transitions. The car's responsiveness at tip-in from a stop is much smoother and more seamless as well (as would be expected). I've noticed a very very very (that's 3 "very"s) slight increase in cabin vibrations/noise over the 75a conventional mount, but it's nothing worth writing home about, and I'll gladly put up with it for the awesome transitional behavior it exhibits.

Drive it around more! Keep us posted... this might be the next $ I spend. this or JBR

[Nliiitend1]

Originally Posted by Schmitty5 Drive it around more! Keep us posted... this might be the next $ I spend. this or JBR

Will do.

I was about to respond to your PM when I saw you posted here...

I'll update you all as I break it in.

[maaazda]

Installed CP-E version 2 RMM 2 days ago wowow great mount combined with the other 2 CP-E trans/passenger mount car felt very solid excellent traction .
slight more vibration nothing to cry about the car feels totally different no floating ,shifting is smooth as silk no jerking during hard shift car stay solid and pulls very hard cannot complain I tried Sure rear mount /CP-E version 1 but 2 is the best out of all other brand mount .

[SLOWHATCH]

So basically this replaces the bracket off the trans? Can the trans bracket be purchased separate or is that what this is? Confused on wether it's a package deal of the bracket and rmm.

[Nliiitend1]

Originally Posted by SLOWHATCH So basically this replaces the bracket off the trans? Can the trans bracket be purchased separate or is that what this is? Confused on wether it's a package deal of the bracket and rmm.

It's an entirely different design, in that it effectively moves the bushing from the spot where it is on every other mount (including the OEM mount) to the spot where the aluminum forward bracket attaches to the piece that is replaced with every other mount on the market. This requires that basically what I would describe as a "blank" or "dummy" mount with no bushing be installed in the place of the "billet" section (for lack of a better term) that is normally the only piece to be replaced.



See how there is no bushing in the conventional spot? It's just a machined piece of aluminum.

So to answer your question, it replaces both the piece that is conventionally referred to as the "RMM" and the forward bracket that such a piece normally attaches to.

[Nliiitend1]

So I just want to chime in here again and tell anyone who might be on the fence about this that they should probably just buy it.

It may be the most expensive RMM for this platform, but to me it's well worth the price. I lucked out and got it for 20% off during the Black Friday sale they had, but now that I have it I honestly don't think even ~$200 is too much to pay for it. Others may not agree, but if you want a mount that limits movement more like a solid/PU dogbone does but with an NVH profile only slightly more intense than the "Stage 1" CP-e mounts, this is your only viable option.

I think it will probably easily outlast any dogbone mount on the market as well (due to the relocated bushing being "properly" loaded on only one axis, as opposed to having "twisting" forces put through it), and if for some reason I'm wrong and the bushing doesn't hold up, I know that CP-e will be standing by to take care of me.

[PureDrive]

Thanks for the extra thoughts. Mine is scheduled to be delivered on this coming Monday and will hopefully be installing it the same day, as long at the weather is not too bad (it was 6 degrees out in the morning two days ago). I had the first/regular CP-E mount before (sold to get a little more money for Christmas), so I will see how this thing feels. I have the corksport inserts in there now and I really don't like them; I had them in before I got the first CP-E mount and did not like them then, so I don't know what I had expected to have changed.

[JustinDeletis]

why would it take a couple of hours to widdle down a piece of aluminum? I run and program a cnc mill and could spit one of those mounts out in about 5min.

[Nliiitend1]

Who the fuck cares?

I give less than a shit about the accuracy of the narrative that describes its production.

It's a great mount. That's all that really matters.

[Ckmazdaspeed3]

Didn't read any of this, but I've had three cpe mounts (tmm, pmm and rmm) and the bushings ripped on all of them by 20k... I think most made it to like 10k

[Nliiitend1]

Originally Posted by Ckmazdaspeed3 Didn't read any of this, but I've had three cpe mounts (tmm, pmm and rmm) and the bushings ripped on all of them by 20k... I think most made it to like 10k

Thanks for the anecdotal evidence concerning all the CP-e mounts for this platform except for the one we're talking about in this thread!

[Ckmazdaspeed3]

Originally Posted by Nliiitend1 Thanks for the anecdotal evidence concerning all the CP-e mounts for this platform except for the one we're talking about in this thread!

I'm simply pointing out that 3 out of 3 failed... Thats a pretty high ratio, especially for someone who doesn't auto cross or drag race... I wouldn't expect much better from this. Cpe is more concerned about their cnc machining than actual quality I think.

[Nliiitend1]

Originally Posted by Ckmazdaspeed3 I'm simply pointing out that 3 out of 3 failed... Thats a pretty high ratio, especially for someone who doesn't auto cross or drag race... I wouldn't expect much better from this. Cpe is more concerned about their cnc machining than actual quality I think.

Fair enough, I guess.

FWIW, I bought a used CP-e 60a RMM that did need its bushing replaced (http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...ear-use-58476/), but its replacement (I went with the 75a bushing the second time around) showed no real signs of wear after seeing nearly twice the mileage that the first one saw (I still believe the first one was simply part of a bad batch of 60s, as there were a couple other people with mounts of very similar age that had issues with the 60s at about the same time) when I took it off a couple of weeks ago.

The design of this new mount makes it inherently less prone to wear than the conventional RMMs, so I have no reason to believe this one won't hold up at least as well as the 75a mount I just took off. And again, if it fails, CP-e will replace the bushing for free.

[SLOWHATCH]

I think the design is very innovative. I like it just not sure I'd pay 200 for it. I do like the bling and the fact that it replaces the forward bracket.

Still want to see a pic of one installed. Thinking I may just be adding an Ingalls torque damper to help out my jbr dog bone.

[PureDrive]

Originally Posted by SLOWHATCH I think the design is very innovative. I like it just not sure I'd pay 200 for it. I do like the bling and the fact that it replaces the forward bracket. Still want to see a pic of one installed. Thinking I may just be adding an Ingalls torque damper to help out my jbr dog bone.

I am scheduled to get my Stage 2 mount from UPS at some point today and will hopefully be able to install it this evening, so I can try to remember to take some pictures for you.

In regards to the price, I myself feel that there was some actual thought and craft put into this design/mount. I also would rather spend money on a few quality, well designed parts then a bunch of random parts that were purchased because they had the lowest pricetag. Spending some time in the VW world helped with this however, as everything was a more expensive than what I was used to with Japanese cars, so now I don't go into things looking for parts to be cheap.

I as well have been thinking about getting the Ingalls torque damper for the car. I had one on my last car, a 2011 Civic Si sedan. It worked well in general for reducing the amount the motor moved around and did improve shifting. However, it generated a good amount of noise that was amplified by the firewall, despite using Dynamat and rubber washers between a lot of metal to metal contact. As well, the initial starup was a VERY rough experience, feeling like the little engine was going to tear itself out of the front of the car and having a loud pounding sound resound throughout the entire car.

I'll see how things go with the Stage 2 mount and then see if I'm willing to spend more money around the shifting experience. I don't have a lot of extra funds right now to go around, so anything more than the State 2 is going to be a hard sell for me.

[PureDrive]

Installed the mount last night. Pretty straightforward, but I did have to push/move the engine around much more than I had to when I installed the Stage 1 or Corsksport inserts; I thought for a second that it might not lineup.

Initial startup has a little more vibration/harshness than the regular CP-E, but only just barely and the vibration/harshness feels a little different (if that makes sense). It feels more progressive/natural in regards to clutch feel/engine movement in relation to the Stage 1 or Corksport inserts, from only a very limited time with it on so far. Haven't had any chance to really drive around with it yet, so I'll save those impressions for later.

Here is a pic from after I was finished:

[Nliiitend1]

Originally Posted by PureDrive Installed the mount last night. Pretty straightforward, but I did have to push/move the engine around much more than I had to when I installed the Stage 1 or Corsksport inserts; I thought for a second that it might not lineup. Initial startup has a little more vibration/harshness than the regular CP-E, but only just barely and the vibration/harshness feels a little different (if that makes sense). It feels more progressive/natural in regards to clutch feel/engine movement in relation to the Stage 1 or Corksport inserts, from only a very limited time with it on so far. Haven't had any chance to really drive around with it yet, so I'll save those impressions for later. Here is a pic from after I was finished:

I think you have the rearward piece in upside down. :/

The pictures of the assembled mount on cp-e's website show it sitting with the logo facing upward (and with the larger of the two "fake aluminum bushing" protrusions facing upward as well)... That's how I installed mine.

[PureDrive]

Originally Posted by Nliiitend1 I think you have the rearward piece in upside down. :/ The pictures of the assembled mount on cp-e's website show it sitting with the logo facing upward (and with the larger of the two "fake aluminum bushing" protrusions facing upward as well)... That's how I installed mine.

When I took off my stock mount with the Corksport inserts, the larger side is down, so that is how I installed the CP-E Stage 2. I don't know if it really makes much of a difference. I think I am going to email/call CP-E to see what they say. The directions (not that any are really needed, I guess) are horrible and make no mention of which side to put up or down, so I just went with how the stock one was.

[PureDrive]

Another pic I had, but pretty much the same angle:

[Nliiitend1]

That might have something to do with how much you said you had to wrestle with the engine to get things lined up... Regarding whether or not it makes a difference, if you look at the rearward piece, the holes that the horizontal bolt goes through are closer to one edge of the metal than the other, meaning that even besides the aluminum "fake bushing protrusions," there is something that makes it so that there is probably only one right way to install it...

I hear you on the directions... I had to pull up the pictures on the website to try and figure it out, and simply assembled it the way I saw it assembled there.

Let me know if you find out that I put it in wrong... Lol.

[PureDrive]

^Just got a response email fom technical support at CP-E: the logo should be facing down, so that you can see it, as in my pictures, so mine is installed correctly. They really should change the pictures on their website and have better directions. I am going to write them another email reviewing the need for greater clarification in their instructions.

[StreetMS3]

Originally Posted by PureDrive ^Just got a response email fom technical support at CP-E: the logo should be facing down, so that you can see it, as in my pictures, so mine is installed correctly. They really should change the pictures on their website and have better directions. I am going to write them another email reviewing the need for greater clarification in their instructions.

Hey PureDrive are there torque spec on the bolts and if so what are they?

[Nliiitend1]

Lol.

FML.

At least I know now... Time to get up on the ramps and flip it tonight!

[Nliiitend1]

Alright.

Mount is flipped.

I'm glad I got under there. I would suggest that anyone who installed this right out of the box take it off and and check all the bushing retention screws. When I got under there this evening I saw that one of mine had backed itself almost all the way out, and a couple of the others were sort of loose. I suppose it shouldn't surprise any of us after the cp-e upper tranny mount fiasco, but at any rate, heads up!

I removed all of them and applied blue threadlocker to each of them before re-installing them as tight as I could get them. Hopefully that's enough to keep the problem from returning.

@www.cp-e.com

[maaazda]

Originally Posted by Nliiitend1 Alright. Mount is flipped. I'm glad I got under there. I would suggest that anyone who installed this right out of the box take it off and and check all the bushing retention screws. When I got under there this evening I saw that one of mine had backed itself almost all the way out, and a couple of the others were sort of loose. I suppose it shouldn't surprise any of us after the cp-e upper tranny mount fiasco, but at any rate, heads up! I removed all of them and applied blue threadlocker to each of them before re-installing them as tight as I could get them. Hopefully that's enough to keep the problem from returning. @www.cp-e.com

found mine loose too .....thanks Nliiitend1

[IMASA]

Originally Posted by Nliiitend1 Alright. I would suggest that anyone who installed this right out of the box take it off and and check all the bushing retention screws. When I got under there this evening I saw that one of mine had backed itself almost all the way out, and a couple of the others were sort of loose. I suppose it shouldn't surprise any of us after the cp-e upper tranny mount fiasco, but at any rate, heads up! @www.cp-e.com

Thanks for the tip. Just got mine today and put red loctite on all 6 screws. 4/6 screws came out easily, with barely any red locktite on the threads.

[PureDrive]

^Glad you got things taken care of .

The issue about the screws is not encouraging. This should not be an issue at all. I had planned to put the car up in a few days, after driving it around for a little bit, to check all the bolts anyway, so I will certainly check the little screws/bolts as well. I think regardless of what I find I am going to at least back a couple out, one at a time, with the mount still on the car, and put some loctite on them. Why CP-E would not put some form of threadlocker on these from the start is beyond me (aside from wanting to save time and money). Thanks for the heads-up around this.

[Nliiitend1]

You're welcome.


Let us know what you find when you get under there!