Spark Plug Database - Gen2

[Haltech]

This is a compiled database for spark plugs who's heat range is 1 and 2 stages colder than stock. Please add your plugs and we will update this thread.

Mazdaspeed Forums Spark Plug Index Database

Gap size - 0.026 - 0.032 | Preferred gap is between 0.026 to 0.028

Type and Specs on DISI 2.3l Spark Plugs: 14mm; 5/8 hex; 25mm reach; projected tip; resistor plug

Heat Range Conversion Chart

 
HKS 25 30 35 40 45 50 52.5 55
DENSO 16 20 22 24 27 31 32 34
NGK 5 6 7 8 9 10 10.5 11 

Spark Plug Manf & Part Numbers

• Denso Iridium
• itv-20 - Stock heat range
• itv-22 - 1 stage colder heat range
• itv-24 - 2 stage colder heat range
• itv-27 - 3.5 stage colder heat range

• HKS
• 50003-M35LF *Mazda MZR Engine* ; Mazda 3, Mazda 6, MX-5 '06 7 $22.97ea. - 1 Stage Colder Heat Range
• 50003-M40LF *Mazda MZR Engine* ; Mazda 3, Mazda 6, MX-5 '06 8 $22.97ea. - 2 Stage Colder Heat Range

• NGK IX Iridium
• NGK LTR7IX-11 (6510) - 1 Stage Colder Heat Range
• NGK ILTR6A-8G (3787) - Stock Heat Range

• Torque Master Spark Plugs
• SVTP8BR Stock Heat Range
• SVTP7YR 1 Stage Colder Heat Range

• Autolite Iridium
• Autolite Iridiums XP5364 - Stock Heatrange
• Autolite Iridiums XP5263 - 1 Step Colder

NGK Copper Plugs

LZTR4A-11 (5306)
LZTR5A-13 (4306)
BKR7E

[TiGraySpeed6]

General Specs
14mm Thread Size,
25.4mm (1") Reach,
5/8" (16mm) Hex Size,
Tapered Seat,
Resistor

tightening torque: 8.0 - 10.3 ft/lbf, (10 - 14 N/m, 1.1-1.4 kgf/m)
anti-seize on threads recommended


What's this whole "Heat Range" thing about, and why do I care?
AutoliteSparkplugs.com
>It's believed that the MZR is damn near ready for one step colder from the factory.
>Colder plugs are an integral part of KR management


Pics of screwed up spark plugs, and what they mean
Spark Plug Diagnosis
As a general theory, your ceramic should wear to a nice coffee with lots of cream color. Bright white ceramic means you should try a colder plug. Dark needs hotter. Beyond that, if your plugs ever end up looking like anything in these pics, well, you've got much bigger problems than this post is going to help with...


Just what the heck do those numbers mean anyway?
Reference Charts:
NGK - NGK spark plugs symbol code
Autolite - http://www.autolitesparkplugs.com/im...0numbering.jpg
Denso - Untitled Document
Champion - Untitled Document


Just how long can I expect my fancy new plugs to last?
Both Cobb and Denso have written on the subject. Denso has a generic note that indicates a lifespan of about 30K miles, but Cobb is even more conservative and notes the hell that is a DISI Motor will see the benefits dropping off after only 15K miles:

Per the Cobb MS3-MS6 Service Bulletin v1.03:
"...operating the car with higher than stock boost levels or with the calibrations that are on the AccessPORT, require that a spark plug gap of .026” - .028” (6.6 - 7.1mm) be used on a 1-step colder temperature plug. Denso currently offers this spark plug as part # ITV22 (please be sure to verify each plug is properly gapped before installing them). Our experience has shown that operating your turbo-charged engine at higher than stock boost levels requires that your spark plugs be replaced at around 15,000 mile intervals."


Colder Heat Ranges
generally accepted gap, where adjustable, .026 (range .025 to .028)
====================
>Autolite Single Platinum Spark Plug
Part No. AP5263
$2.50

>Autolite Double Platinum Spark Plug
Part No. APP5263
$4.00

>Autolite Xp (Xtreme Performance) Iridium Enhanced Fine Wire Spark Plug
**Cross-references the Denso ITV-22**
Part No. XP5263
$6.50

>NGK IX Iridium
Part No. LTR71X-11
$8.00 ea.

>Denso Iridium Spark Plugs
Part No. ITV22 - one step colder
$11.99 (streetunit price)

Part No. ITV24 - two steps colder
$11.99 (streetunit price)



Factory Heat Range
generally accepted gap, where adjustable, .032 (range .028 to .032)
====================
>Autolite Double Platinum Spark Plug
Part No. APP5364
$3.99

>Champion Double Platinum Spark Plug
Part No. 7437
$4.29

>Motorcraft Original Equipment Finewire Single Platinum Spark Plug
Part No. SP432
$4.69

>Motorcraft Original Equipment Finewire Double Platinum Spark Plug
Part No. SP478
$4.69

>Bosch Platinum+2 Spark Plug
Part No. 4315
$4.99

>Bosch Platinum Ir Fusion
Part No. 4515
$5.71

>Bosch Platinum+4 Spark Plug
Part No. 4488
$5.99

>Pulstar Platinum Pulse Plug
Part No. EF1P
$9.99

>ACDelco Professional Platinum Spark Plug
Part No. 41-814
$6.49

>Champion Iridium
Part No. 9901
$5.74

>NGK Premium Iridium
Part No. ILTR6A8G
$9.94

>Autolite Xp (Xtreme Performance) Iridium Enhanced Fine Wire Spark Plug
Part No. XP5364
$6.59

>Pulstar Iridium Pulse Plug
Part No. EF1I
$12.99

>E3 Premium Special Electrode Automotive Spark Plug
**no reports of this plug working worth a crap in the MZR engine**
Part No. E3.66
$5.99

[Jo367344]

UPDATE
SparK Plug Diagnostic Link change to Spark plug failure analysis

I clicked the old link and it didn't work, so I found the new one by browsing the original site.

[turbo test]

Tapatalk is retarded cant tell if this is a sticky or not. Subbing for near future reference.

Have opinions swayed as to what is the best or preferred spark plugs for our engines?

My speed just rolled over 30k and today i started the car and idle was rough followed by two cel's cylinder 2 misfire and overboost. Has me worried.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

[TiGraySpeed6]

step colder, in order of preference-
Denso ITV22
NGK LTR71X-11
Autolite XP5263

itv22 is the only one that comes gapped @ .028, the others are @ .044

[mituc]

Just gaped my 2 spare sets at 0.65mm/0.026ish inch. I'm going to move from ITV22 to LTR71X-11 this spring.
I'd love to have some insight from the knowledgeable people on this forum about how to properly gap these plugs for different boost/power levels. However, I guess that 0.026 should work for pretty much anyone needing just one step colder plugs.

[TiGraySpeed6]

.026-.028 is generically safe for the step colder. Lean more towards the .026 side as boost levels go up.

Stock heat range, combined with lower boost, say 18 & under, can get away with gaps as large as .030 to .032

The only issue with most plugs we can run is that they come with a monster .044(ish) gap, and need to be gapped down to spec. Changing from a 44 to a 26 is a huge ass change, and, while certainly doable, may shorten the best use lifespan of the plug.

Cobb, and experience, indicate that a high boost, well tuned Speed will wear a set of plugs in ~17-20K miles. The angle resulting from such a major gap change may reduce that life to more like 15-17K.


Myself, I run cheap ass (no, not inexpensive, just plain cheap) Autolite XP5263 plugs, and change them every 4th oil change or so. Readily available at your local parts joint over the counter.

[bobspeed3]

For the folks wondering about copper plugs for our car i'm including what I got in an email conversation from NGK tech support when I asked them about a V-power plug for our car.

The Iridium’s also have copper cores since there is no such thing as a copper plug. The ignition on that vehicle will require a finewire plug as it needs it to retain factory functions such as the wasted spark. Since the Iridium will require less voltage to jump the gap it is better for boost. Most likely will not come out with one.

[modusoperandi]

Trying to decide if to go a step colder on my car & what to set the gap to. Running a CS 3 inch intake, CS TMIC, AT HPFP internals, & test pipe. Thoughts?

[makjur]

Originally Posted by modusoperandi Trying to decide if to go a step colder on my car & what to set the gap to. Running a CS 3 inch intake, CS TMIC, AT HPFP internals, & test pipe. Thoughts?

I recently ordered NGK 6510's... before I ordered them I did some reading and found 2 theories that make sense
1. Stock turbo = stock temp plugs
2. If your 50+ horsepower, colder plugs help

I decided with option 2, for now, if I dont like them I'll get stock temp

[SKiZZ]

What is the preferred method to gap our plugs?

[Agent_Orange]

Originally Posted by SKiZZ What is the preferred method to gap our plugs?

Gap gauge.




Some use feeler gauges, but they can damage electrodes pretty easily if misused.

[motoman]

I just swapped in some Autolite XP5364s after 62,000 miles on the original plugs.

I noticed the originals are FoMoCo with the part number of ILTR5A-13G, which is an NGK. However, this plug isn't listed above and when I query this part in the plug databases it shows as not for the 2010 MS3, but it is for the regular 3. Any thoughts on this?

[motoman]

Originally Posted by Agent_Orange Gap gauge. Some use feeler gauges, but they can damage electrodes pretty easily if misused.

With this type of gauge you can only get approximate. The only way to get a precise gap is to use a feeler gauge. For example, notice the gap on this gauge is 0.025 and 0.030. Yet a lot of folks on here talk about 0.026, 0.027, 0.028 gaps, etc. You can't do that without feelers. The only thing you can do with the pictured gauge is get somewhere between 0.025 and 0.030.

[aromig]

Noticed the gap listed at the very start of the o.p. is off. It states 0.26 - 0.32, when it should be a 0.026 - 0.032 gap. Any chance this could be updated?

Sent from my GS3 running PAC ROM

[MS3Dreamz]

Going to switch to NGK!!

[MS6_life]

Hello all,

Yesterday I just replaced my spark plugs on my 2007 MS6. Prior to replacement the car was misfiring pretty bad and overall running terribly. The engine would surge and the car ran inconsistent.

After replacing the plugs it is like driving a brand new vehicle! With that being said I left the gap at 0.4 and every once in a while I still feel a bad misfire or even a mini engine sure. Could this be due to the gapping? I have Denso ITV22 and it appears most of you say to gap it at 0.28, could this be why my engine still surges?

Thanks so much!

[dale_gribble]

You mean .04 and .028? Gap em to around .030 or little lower for stock/lightly modded.

[Hoyoman]

I'm still on stock plugs with all the mods in my sig o.o

[MS3Dreamz]

Originally Posted by Hoyoman I'm still on stock plugs with all the mods in my sig o.o

Your coils still good?

[Hoyoman]

Originally Posted by MS3Dreamz Your coils still good?

Should be okay but will use step colder plugs soon and will post on here again if anything crazy comes up with stock plugs

[Awal]

Hoyo have you changed the plugs yet? anything to report?

[Dedlyvirus]

Has anyone ever had any issues with the NGK 6510s not threading in right? I picked up a set, and it almost felt like the threading was different, so I stopped because I didn't want to screw up the threading.

[season_of_ages]

I'm curious, why are the NGK BKR7E listed? Looking at the specs on NGK's website, their reach is a quarter inch shorter than standard. I'd love a V-power copper plug but wouldn't this cause issues? Or can we gap the plug to make up for the length distance? Is that how it works?

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