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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So I've tried to find some solid opinions online but haven't run into many that seemed more than a general "whenever you want". And maybe that's true. I have a CS intake/TIP, internals, OCC, and Magnaflow catback. I'm running and OTS tune from Cobb back when they supported other manufacturer's stuff. I'm thinking of adding a catless downpipe and then I dunno...maybe a few other bolt-ons (perhaps BPV, FMIC) depending on how that goes. So when is the best time to get a custom tune? I'm not certain I love the idea of paying $75 every time I but a new part, but I don't want to wreck shit either. Is it best to buy all (or most) of the things I want to add first, put em all on at once and then tune? I don't plan on ever getting a different turbo so I won't go full re-tune. Anyways, any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
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This way you won't need to update the tune after every part like you said. Just make sure the MAF calibration in your current OTS tune is on point achieving AFR targets, and the engine is running healthy and not knocking. When upgrading to higher flowing parts, such as going catless or upgrading the turbo, there is always the risk for boost creep and overboosting. I'm a believer in getting the tuning done in the coldest weather the car will see. Ofcourse, not cold to the point where there is snow on the road making it unsafe to take datalogs, but cool enough where the cylinder pressures generated are higher. This way boost creep and overboosting are factored into the tune and are less of a surprise when cold temps come around. Also, octane and fuel system limitations can be factored into the tune in cooler weather as they will be taxed more.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to BuddySpeed3 For This Useful Post: | Dubcnea (03-10-2019) |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks for the response! Didn’t think about pressures and temp. Good thinkin. Now I just hafta find a tuner. There’s a few to choose from so time to research. Not sure I can go wrong with any reputable ones I see in here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You have a great advice above... Just keep in mind, the tune is the brain or your engine...you need to have it to get power from your mods....Some is to upgrade but some part of the tune could be mandatory to avoid engine damage from your added parts.... The biggest one is going catless.....it require a pump and a tune.....if you don't it will cost you....
__________________ Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better... 2007 rusted Speed6... Forged with meth and a 3076 in progress... 1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB 2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts 1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup Wife drive 2010 CX7 2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it) ...Because French Canadian... If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks.... |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So those of you that are tuned, did you contact the tuner before install of certain mods to get that base map first? Or installed and then contacted tuner with log? I’d be nervous to do the latter, but you tell me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i would contact the tuner and check this with him. I would personally gather my parts and wait to install them until i get a tuning schedule or a base tune....
__________________ Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better... 2007 rusted Speed6... Forged with meth and a 3076 in progress... 1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB 2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts 1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup Wife drive 2010 CX7 2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it) ...Because French Canadian... If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks.... |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Jeff23spl For This Useful Post: | Dubcnea (03-11-2019) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Can't have one without the other. Get all your parts together first so you know exactly what's getting put on. Then get the basemap tune. Before you start pulling parts off, put your keys with the AP in a bag and set it in the passenger floorboard. When all the parts are on, you might forget that you need to reflash it first before starting. Hey look, your keys are with the AP. That should be a clue. You don't necessarily need to flash the basemap first, before you start pulling parts off. If you have an issue with one or more of the parts you planned on installing, you may decide to carry on and install them later when you work out the issue. If that's the case, your basemap may be no good without those parts and you'll need to get a new basemap for the installed parts.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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