CX Racing FMIC install

[JTMS3]

Okay so since the directions that CX Racing gave me were 14 pics and 32 words, I thought I might offer up how my install went and corrections/issues I ran into that wasn't addressed in the CX instructions.

Tools needed:
small flathead
phillips screwdriver
socket wrench, 3/8" worked best for me.
socket extentions
10mm socket
11mm deep socket
12mm socket
14mm socket
Jack stands
Jack
heavyduty siccors or tin snips
dremel with cut off wheels
vice grips or channel locks

Step 1: Remove TMIC including boost tubes. Also remove the 2 TMIC studs on IM so they won't make contact with the hot pipe. They screw out with the vise grips.

Remove your BPV as you will want to use it versus the one they send you. I think this is the best application for the one they sent.


Step 2: Remove your intake/stock box as you will need access to your recirc tube for adjustments when attaching your tube to the BPV.


Step 3: Remove the front bumper. There are 6 larger black clips (small flathead) and two phillip screws on top.

Next there are 3 body clips and 1 screw in each front wheel well.

Then remove all the screws holding in the undertray. There are 9 10mm bolts, 9 screws and iirc 3 body clips. Sorry about no pic but you will see when you are under there if it's your first time.
After that.. make sure when you pull the bumper near the wheel wells that you pull out slightly, NOT DOWN and they will pop out easy. Pull the bumper out far enough so you can unplug the fog lights and then remove the wiring from the bumper. Then just pull the bumper away from the front of the car.

Step 4: Remove plastic pieces on left and right side under the crash bar. 10mm bolts.


Step 5: Remove oem Amb * sensor as this will have to be relocated. I relocated it near the hood release. Just make sure it somewhere where the airstream will hit it constantly.


Step 6:Remove the plastic piece over the crash bar. You don't have to put it back but this is one of the pieces I did cut and put back. You will see this area once the bumper is back on but again it's up to you if you want to put it back.


Step 7: Install bracket for FMIC on the crash bar. 14mm bolts supplied


Step 8: Install the step brackets supplied on the top of the IC core and then mount IC to bracket on crash bar. 14mm bolts supplied.

Don't forget to wrap the AC pipe with the supplied 1.5" hoses so the core doesn't hit it. You also need to do this on the AC line where the hot pipe runs down.

Step 9: Start routing your pipes, hoses and put the T-clamps on but DO NOT TIGHTEN. Not sure if you should start with one side or the other, but I ended up going cold side first starting with the TB. You are best to wrap your cold and hot pipes in header wrap. The CP will come in contact with your coolant line and heat your shit up. (Thanks Fatguy729)
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Added some hose where the pipe could hit on the passenger side.
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As you can see, shit gets tight but everything clears. Now that everything is lined up correctly, tighten all your clamps (11mm). The FMIC should straighten out at the bottom and pretty much not move.

Step 10: Attach BPV of choice.


Step 11: Cut the small undertray piece to accomidate the core. Basically the platic that sticks up will all be cut out. I cut out about half all the way across and had no issues reinstalling. This is where the dremel comes in handy, sorry forgot to take a pic of that.

From there you can go ahead and get the bumper ready to be installed back on. Install the foglights and the wiring back into the bumper. I think it's safe to say you can start the car and see how everything runs, I used the AP to make sure the vac pressure was cool. If all is well, install the bumper back on and it works best to start by putting the 6 body clips in first and work you way around from there. Then attach the undertray and you should be done. It took me about 6 hours to get everything installed back and in place.



Hope this was somewhat helpful and let me know if there is anything you guys think I missed.

[Post pwned]

Bang up job good sir!!!
Tiny fucking core, looks good tho.
What's so bad about the blow off they give you and what do you prefer?

Thank you for a very clear write up!!!!!

[JTMS3]

Core lacks some height for sure but the core is 28" x 6.5" and is 2.75" thick. I just used my trusty Forge for the BPV. The one they give you looks like the $36 ones from ebay, that's all I will say about it. It's the one my kid has wrapped around his neck, it's his bling.

[mghtymouse380]

Thanks for the the write up. Hopefully will be putting one of these on in a week or two when I can get it.

[EL F00LI0]

This write up is great, bumper removal is the same for gen 1 im assuming?

[JTMS3]

Originally Posted by michael_allaire This write up is great, bumper removal is the same for gen 1 im assuming?

once you get all the screws, clips & bolts and then take the fogs out, taking the bumper off is easy as pulling away from the car.

[myt_tuf1]

Originally Posted by JTMS3 Core lacks some height for sure but the core is 23" x 6.5" and is 2.75" thick. I just used my trusty Forge for the BPV. The one they give you looks like the $36 ones from ebay, that's all I will say about it. It's the one my kid has wrapped around his neck, it's his bling.

Edit: Unless you got something funky, according to cx's website, the core is 23"x6.5"x2.5"... Not 28".

Great write-up!

Edit #2: Apparently CXRacing doesn't even know what size the core is... At first they say it's 23"x6.5"x2.5"; then, a little further down the page, they say it's 24"x6.5"x2.5". http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=INCK... Whatever.

[TexasSpeed3]

great write up sir!

[JTMS3]

Originally Posted by myt_tuf1 Edit: Unless you got something funky, according to cx's website, the core is 23"x6.5"x2.5"... Not 28". Great write-up! Edit #2: Apparently CXRacing doesn't even know what size the core is... At first they say it's 23"x6.5"x2.5"; then, a little further down the page, they say it's 24"x6.5"x2.5". cxracing.com: CXRacing Intercooler Kit For 2010+ 2nd Gen MazdaSpeed3 2.3L DISI Turbo... Whatever.

I can only confirm what my tape messure showed me unless I forgot how to count. The CORE without endtanks is 28" and with endtanks was just under 34". It was also 2.75" thick not 2.5" for sure. You can see that in the pics above as the endtanks are larger than the 2.5" outlet pipes. The only messurement that matched for mine was the 6.5" height.

[rfinkle2]

Excellent write-up. Thanks for taking the time, and good luck with the intercooler.

[myt_tuf1]

Originally Posted by JTMS3 I can only confirm what my tape messure showed me unless I forgot how to count. The CORE without endtanks is 28" and with endtanks was just under 34". It was also 2.75" thick not 2.5" for sure. You can see that in the pics above as the endtanks are larger than the 2.5" outlet pipes. The only messurement that matched for mine was the 6.5" height.

Ya, I wasn't trying to rag, it was just odd when I went to look at the kit on CX's website and saw the different numbers.

But that's besides the point here... Once again, great write-up, I'll probably refer back to this when I go FMIC.

[JTMS3]

Originally Posted by myt_tuf1 Ya, I wasn't trying to rag, it was just odd when I went to look at the kit on CX's website and saw the different numbers. But that's besides the point here... Once again, great write-up, I'll probably refer back to this when I go FMIC.

It's cool, I am not sure if that was the original specs and then they changed it without updating the website but either was I am happy it's not what they say it is. It's a nice core and the welds are good all the way around, I am happy with the kit overall for sure.

[EvilMonkey]

How does it perform?

[JTMS3]

after wrapping both the hot and cold pipes the highest I am seeing temps is 30* above amb after long spirited driving. There is a little bit of lag now but it's expected, overall I am happy with it.

[Jedyboyrokr]

meh you dont need a huge core for the tiny ass KO4

[DingoDave]

Great write up! But umm... How do you check your oil?

Originally Posted by JTMS3

[mghtymouse380]

What wrap did you get?

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by JTMS3 after wrapping both the hot and cold pipes the highest I am seeing temps is 30* above amb after long spirited driving. There is a little bit of lag now but it's expected, overall I am happy with it.

LMK if you need a hand tweaking your map for any lag. I'm not sure how familiar you with ATR you are, but would be happy to help.

Originally Posted by mghtymouse380 What wrap did you get?

I got this tape mighty... and it works very well...

Heat shield tape | Heatshield Products

I'm seeing about 5-10*'s above ambient temps in my logs now, after wrapping the hot and cold pipe. (keep in mind that that is on a 90* day last week.)

FMIC's are best when doing multi gear logs... Extended wot periods are where an fmic shines.

It may be dissapointing when doing 1 3rd gear log to see about the same bat's as the stock tmic, but in real world driving, or giving another car a run, the fmic has its advantages.

[Monotonous ONE]

i wish i had monies like you ninjas

[JTMS3]

Originally Posted by DingoDave Great write up! But umm... How do you check your oil?

yeah checking the oil is tricky for sure. I have to disconnect the HP at the hose in order to get at that.

[mike0122]

Originally Posted by JTMS3 yeah checking the oil is tricky for sure. I have to disconnect the HP at the hose in order to get at that.

Nice write up. Just have one quick question. I read ur post a few times so I don't think I missed it, but where the heck do these go? The 2 pieces I circled.

[JTMS3]

Originally Posted by mike0122 Nice write up. Just have one quick question. I read ur post a few times so I don't think I missed it, but where the heck do these go? The 2 pieces I circled.

nowhere! they are pointless according to Ace@CX Racing for the Gen2 install. Not sure why they include them but I can assure you they are not installed nore can they be.

This kit might be up for sale in the near future if you are interested in getting the CX kit then keep an eye out in the F/S section. I am working on a custom solution for more HP down the road.

[mike0122]

Originally Posted by JTMS3 nowhere! they are pointless according to Ace@CX Racing for the Gen2 install. Not sure why they include them but I can assure you they are not installed nore can they be. This kit might be up for sale in the near future if you are interested in getting the CX kit then keep an eye out in the F/S section. I am working on a custom solution for more HP down the road.

Cool man thanks for the quick reply. I was asking because I have the kit now and was just reading up before I started the install. I know there is another Nator NM guy looking into this FM I will let him know though. Thanks again.

[myt_tuf1]

Originally Posted by JTMS3 This kit might be up for sale in the near future if you are interested in getting the CX kit then keep an eye out in the F/S section. I am working on a custom solution for more HP down the road.

May be interested in this depending on the price/condition... PM me if you do decide to sell it.

[adlpb]

@JTMS3 - Is that a whole bumper replacement you have (on the pics)? Or did you only replace the grille?

Link?

[SWAY]

Originally Posted by adlpb @JTMS3 - Is that a whole bumper replacement you have (on the pics)? Or did you only replace the grille? Link?

cant believe no one else has mention that, i was looking for the post im wondering the same thing myself

[JTMS3]

Originally Posted by adlpb @JTMS3 - Is that a whole bumper replacement you have (on the pics)? Or did you only replace the grille? Link?

that is the grille insert I made, it is a direct replacement for the oem smile. I am going to miss that but I will love rockin the Autoexe bumper from here on out.

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by JTMS3 that is the grille insert I made, it is a direct replacement for the oem smile. I am going to miss that but I will love rockin the Autoexe bumper from here on out.

How much would u sell it for? I'd be highly interested

[SWAY]

made it!!! if you could go into details I'm very interested as well like materials, what you did, cmon what's the secret

[forcedinduktion]

lol seems that everyone that get this kit ends up selling it

[SWAY]

Originally Posted by forcedinduktion lol seems that everyone that get this kit ends up selling it

hes not selling it, this was a how to install it

[forcedinduktion]

Originally Posted by JTMS3 nowhere! they are pointless according to Ace@CX Racing for the Gen2 install. Not sure why they include them but I can assure you they are not installed nore can they be. This kit might be up for sale in the near future if you are interested in getting the CX kit then keep an eye out in the F/S section. I am working on a custom solution for more HP down the road.

Originally Posted by sway40 hes not selling it, this was a how to install it

say what

[SWAY]

Originally Posted by forcedinduktion say what

idk im on the crack

[lito37]

[QUOTE=myt_tuf1;863492]Edit: Unless you got something funky, according to cx's website, the core is 23"x6.5"x2.5"... Not 28".[QUOTE]

23 is the core end tank to end tank is 28.

[JTMS3]

Originally Posted by sway40 made it!!! if you could go into details I'm very interested as well like materials, what you did, cmon what's the secret

if you are talking about the grille it's buried somewhere in the Appearance section, here is the link.

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...le-gone-77850/

[JTMS3]

Originally Posted by forcedinduktion lol seems that everyone that get this kit ends up selling it

Yes I will sell this kit if I can get the GS core/PG piping to work with the stockbar. I want to go BT in the future and would rather not have to deal with an IC plus turbo. Hopefully the brackets I am working on will work with the stock bar and high enough for it to clear the bottom tray for the 7.5" core. If not, then I could get the UR crashbar and a larger core but I think if all messurements are correct with the brackets the GS core should fit.

Overall I have no issues with the CX core, just an issue with the CP touching the coolant line. That's been stated and nothing can be argued about that but other than that this kit was worth the price. All you can compare it to is the CS one for now and I have issues with the length of that HP and I bet that either one of those pipes is touching the coolant line as well.

http://support.corksport.com/instruc...-6-140-WEB.pdf
page 14 figure 8c is the best shot I could find of the coolant line and it looks like it sits on top where the CP routes up.

Worst case senerio I keep the CX core and switch out the pipes to the PG pipes.

[jack_hammer]

i'm bumping an old ass thread and i don't even care.

Originally Posted by JTMS3 yeah checking the oil is tricky for sure. I have to disconnect the HP at the hose in order to get at that.

that right there is some bullshit.

[JTMS3]

Originally Posted by broncojd78 i'm bumping an old ass thread and i don't even care. that right there is some bullshit.

which is why I have the PG piping now.

[pcvang]

Originally Posted by JTMS3 which is why I have the PG piping now.

been searching for awhile now, but i cant seem to find any installed pics of pg piping in a gen2. did you ever do a write up on it? and any issues with piping?

[JTMS3]

Originally Posted by pcvang been searching for awhile now, but i cant seem to find any installed pics of pg piping in a gen2. did you ever do a write up on it? and any issues with piping?

No issues with the PG kit, install was similar to the CX kit just will less silicone and the bends near the coolant line doesn't kink up like the CX kit did.

about to swap cores to the TR8 and keep the PG piping.