How to: Install a speed perf6rmanc3 PI Kit on your gen2

[PapaSmurf]

Well here goes nothing. This will be first my how to and I think its actually a pretty important one if you ask me.

The past 2-3 days I spent installing the speed perf6rmanc3 PI kit. Hopefully you gen 2 folk can get the gist of it. Keep in mind this kit was originally made for a speed6, so there was a small amount of modification to get it installed. If you have any questions feel free to PM me or just ask in this thread.

It was actually pretty straight forward kit, below is the routing directly from speedperf6rmanc3's website which is helpful with getting to know exactly how the kit will be working.

Technically it doesnt matter which side of the AEM FPR your sending fuel line goes, just make sure the return line is on the bottom of the FPR. This also is the case for the rail, doesn't matter which end you send it through.




First we will start with accessing the stock fuel pump/top hat/bucket etc.

There are 2 ways you can do this.

1. Drop the fuel tank (fuck that, its a bitch)
2. Hack away with a cutting wheel.

I decided to use a cutting wheel because race car and I honestly never have people in my back seats. I literally drive it to beat the fuck out of it and make v8's cry. Below is a picture of my work. I used a 4 1/2 inch cutting wheel on a angle grinder.



As you can see the top hat is different compared to a MS6 or a gen 1.

It is extremely simple to take out.

-Unscrew the 8 screws around the top hat.
-Un clip the stock fuel line and plug, make sure you have a rag over it or you will get a wonderful money shot of whatever fuel you're running. Ask me how I know.
-Once the fuel line is off you remove the black metal "shroud". This is literally the piece that holds your fuel pump in.
-Once the black shroud is off take a flat head screw driver and just pry up on each side and it will pop up and out. Wiggle its way into your hands.

Make sure you are very careful taking it out, the bucket will be filled with fuel, once I took mine out I just poured all the fuel back into the tank.




Next you want to remove the top hat and replace with the SP top hat that comes with the kit.

To do this you need to remove the c-clip on the metal rod on the side with the spring, see below for picture.



Once this clip is removed you be able to remove the stock pump/top hat. Its pretty simple to do once its in your hands and you see everything that is going on.


On to the first "modification" needed to help to get this bad boy fit. The pictures below shows the two metal rods that are needed to connect the top hat to the bucket, which are different from the MS6/1st gen. To remove these rods I literally stepped on the top hat and yanked with all my might with some pliers. They eventually both popped out and had a barb on the end of them.













As you can see, the marks on the side of the metal rods from pulling on them lol.

The main difference between the gen2 and other models is the other models dont have these rods, they simply have a c clip you remove and it comes right out. So here was my fix. I went to good ole O'Reilly Auto Parts and bought a E-Clip Assortment and clipped them onto the SP top hat using the bottom most indentation.



Unfortunately I was dumb and didn't take a picture of the rods clipped to the top hat.


Next up you want to wire in your stock fuel level sensor to the new top hat. I took the following two white wires on the new top hat and soldered them to the fuel level sensor.

The first picture is the new top hat white wires and the second picture is the fuel level sensor wires, it doesn't matter which wire goes where at this point is what I was told and it worked out for me.





Below is a picture of the pump fully back together. Things to remember or notice.

-Make sure you connect the fuel level sensor to the new top hat
-Make sure the clear tube coming off the new pumps/top hat is run down the side to the bottom of the bucket as shown on the picture, it will connect nice and snug for you.





Now that your pump is all back together, the joy of installing it is upon you. This is where more cutting and modification comes into play.

The black o-ring that was between your stock pump and black metal shroud fits perfectly on the new top hat as you can see in the picture below, you can also see I had to hack/cut up the shroud so it would fit correctly over the new top hat. Without cutting the shroud there is no possible way for the pump to fit correctly, the pictures below show the cutting that needed to take place. Again I used the same piece of equipment as mentioned above to cut the shroud to fit.

You need to cut the black shroud the clear the new top hats fuel fittings.

The first picture was a test fit and I actually had to cut more as you can see in the other pictures.








yayyy!!! haha

just make sure you put the black shroud back on and tighten it down with the 8 screws. Don't tighten too much or they will strip out. Very weak screws.

That was literally the hardest part of the install IMHO. Next up will be running the fuel lines, setting up the FPR and running the harness, again there many ways to do this.

I chose to run the harness and fuel lines where my stock fuel lines where underneath the car. Keep in mind my car never sees rain... ever. Which might be bad for the harness if it saw rain, but the fuel lines would be fine.

The following pictures show the FPR with my fuel pressure gauge (Which I highly recommend some type of FPG). It also shows some fuel routing and harness routing.



Carbon to feed my inner ricer... mmuahahaha





I ran the lines the length of the car and up into the engine bay zip tying them to safety. Just make sure you keep them away from anything hot that would want to melt them.

I ended up having them come up near my battery and kept the harness there. I than ran the fuel lines around the front of the engine bay to the fuel rail/JMF manifold and eventually to the low pressure side of my HPFP.



Your fuel lines are now done!

Next up is finishing the harness, here is a small breakdown of what wires go where on the harness.

Two Black Wires - Ground, I ran them to a bolt that attached to the chassis in the rear of the car near the pump.

Two Red Wires - Power, they are in the front of the harness and go to the engine bay in this case, they are directly attached to my battery.

Solid Purple/Purple wBlack Strip - These are for your fuel level sensor on your car. The solid purple goes to the solid purple and the Purple with black strip goes to the blue wire in the picture below. This picture is of the connector that connects to your stock fuel pump top hat.

What I did was cut the connector off and solder the wires together, you could do it many ways, quick connectors etc.





Solid Yellow/Solid Orange - Fuel Pump Relay, these will be in your engine bay and need to be tapped into a Light Green wire in the driver side fuse box that is on the connector. I simply scraped the Light green line and soldered both the wires to it, than taped it up for safe measures. The wire is the light green wire in the middle section of the connector. See pictures below for reference.





Yellow wBlack Stripe/Orange wBlack Stripe - ECU, These two need to be spliced into the ECU, if you are looking at your ECU it will be on the connector closest to the driver. The wire will be a brown wire, see pictures below for reference. I also scraped this wire and soldered them all together and taped them up.






The picture below shows where I mounted the relays on the harness and the excess wiring. I mounted it in the driver side front bumper, this is were all my excess wiring went along with the controller wiring which I will get to next.



Now that the harness is ran and fuel lines are ran you only have one thing left to do and that is to install the controller.

The controller is super easy to install.

4 Yellow wires - Left most wire on your coil packs, one to each left most wire. Scraped wires and soldered together method.

Green Wire - Middle wire on your MAF plug. Scraped wire and soldered together method.

Black - Ground

Red - Accessory Power, easiest way to do this is to buy a add-a-fuse and run it to the fuse box in your engine bay. I ran it to the ENG INJ fuse, make sure you use a 10A fuse for the controller power.

Obviously the 4 injector plugs go to your new injectors.

After that your kit is finally installed! You just need a tune to actually boost the car with the extra fuel.

A couple of things to add, little notes etc.

- Make sure you install the middle sized restrictor on the AEM FPR, super easy to do, just be careful and dont mess up the diaphragm inside the FPR

-When starting the car you want to make sure your fuel pressure is at 40 or a little above on the AEM FPR, you do this by using the set screw on top of the FPR. My car started at first but than immediately died and it was because my idle fuel pressure was like 20, so I raised it to 40 and now its cherry.

-Check for leaks! I was lucky and didn't have any or haven't had any yet (knock on wood).

-I almost forgot the boost line running to the AEM FPR. I ran across the back of the hatch, down the side of the interior panels on the driver side and T'd it into my boost gauge line. Just make sure it has vacuum/boost source off your manifold.

Hopefully I dint miss anything! Enjoy the fastz!

Blow are some pictures of the final product.









EDITS:

Make sure the float on your fuel level sensor on the bucket of the fuel pump is facing the same way its suppose to on the stock fuel hat, I had a issue where my fuel gauge wasn't reading right and this was because the float was Jammed, I repositioned it and its good to go now.

I ended up having o-rings on my injectors leak, just make sure those are not leaking, TRIPLE and QUADRUPLE check for leaks.... you don't want a fire.

[jmhinkle]

I believe the words you are looking for are scraped and taped. Not scrapped and tapped. Remember, two consonants make the preceding vowel short.

[PapaSmurf]

Originally Posted by jmhinkle I believe the words you are looking for are scraped and taped. Not scrapped and tapped. Remember, two consonants make the preceding vowel short.

Thanks, think I fixed them all.


Sent from your girlfriends tapabedroom

[Easter Bunny]

Two observations:
1. Screws in the top hat: finally a win for pu's
2. The base coat on the CBM is weird

Did you hold down the throttle and crank the engine a few times to release the fuel pressure?

Glad to see you back and making some progress on this thing. Cant wait to see some results.

[PapaSmurf]

Originally Posted by Easter Bunny Two observations: 1. Screws in the top hat: finally a win for pu's 2. The base coat on the CBM is weird Did you hold down the throttle and crank the engine a few times to release the fuel pressure? Glad to see you back and making some progress on this thing. Cant wait to see some results.

Negative, I never released fuel pressure. Probably would of helped when removing the stock fuel lines. I wouldn't have been sprayed lol


Sent from your girlfriends tapabedroom

[jmhinkle]

So looking at the picture, it seems to be that this would be easier to install on a Genpu than a Gen 1 or OG because of no spinning ring to lock the top hat down. That also makes it appear to me that the block with the feed and return fittings is 180 degrees out. If it was facing the opposite way, would it have not caused these issues at all? I don't see how anyone would ever use the twist ring if that piece was in your way. Something seems wrong. Also with 1/4 of your clamp now missing, is there not the possibility of leaking there?

[PapaSmurf]

Originally Posted by jmhinkle So looking at the picture, it seems to be that this would be easier to install on a Genpu than a Gen 1 or OG because of no spinning ring to lock the top hat down. That also makes it appear to me that the block with the feed and return fittings is 180 degrees out. If it was facing the opposite way, would it have not caused these issues at all? I don't see how anyone would ever use the twist ring if that piece was in your way. Something seems wrong. Also with 1/4 of your clamp now missing, is there not the possibility of leaking there?

No matter what if the fittings are facing the outside of the top hat there isn't room underneath for the shroud to fit and the actual AN fittings to go on, there wasn't even enough room between the fittings on the pump for the shroud to fit in between, hence why I had to cut it. I would think that the sealing for fumes is going to be somewhat of an issue, it does smell like gas in my car and I think that's the reason. The pump doesn't move whatsoever though, I think it is just a sealing issue with the pump and shroud. The pump was pretty loose in the hole compared to the stock one which fit very snug. I do not think it would leak though, the shroud on the stock pump just held the pump down and sealed out the fumes.



Sent from your girlfriends tapabedroom

[PapaSmurf]

added some edits at the bottom of OP.

[Jarods7920]

Fix your cold solder joints!

[Snyeed]

I've been searching but no luck on what two wires for the fuel level sensor on a gen one, the wire colors are different between generations.

Anyone please?