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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I have had two fuel leaks since my exchange of hpfp. The feed line from the tank to the pump has moved up half an inch and fuel has come out. I have read some threads about the inner light blue clip has been upside down. Does someone has a picture of a clip in correct position (or a description how I can check it)? Kind Regards /Sven
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| Not Ranked : 0 score in this pic, the part touching his thumb goes down, fuel line slides over the part touching his index finger
__________________ Was a Mazdaspeed6 GT #3476 TiGray slicktop Now in a BMW 135i - double the turbos, double the fun! E82.N54 2009 / BSM / A/T / Drop-in / PR CP / Berk Street / MHD / xHP 340hp / 371tq |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score When I was reading about the "clip upside down" I thought it was the leftmost part (in the picture) they were talking about? Can that clip be put upside down as well?
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Doing injector seals and took off my manifold. Somewhere along the way I find this blue clip thing on the ground... I can't seem to pinpoint where it comes from though, the only fuel related things I've touched are the fuel rail and maybe it's vacuum hose, and neither seem to have the place for this clip. I'm pondering if maybe it's just been in hiding since I did my autotech internals 20k ago... I couldn't find this shit in the workshop manual either.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Alas, I can't say about that one. I've removed & reattached lines using the blue clip a few times but have never had to disassemble the clip from the line to the individual parts shown above @phate
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yes you can put the blue clip and clear clips upside down. The clear clip sits above the blue one. There are two points that stick out on the clear clip. There are two holes for those points on the blue clip. Put the clear clip on the pump first *with the points facing down* then snap your blue clip under them, with the holes face up to catch the clear points. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Oh, do you actually assemble the fule line this way or is it just for description? Kind Regards /Sven
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It all depends how your clip comes off. When I uninstalled my pump to swap with a local guy for his stock pump. My blue clip came off in two pieces. I've done a few installs but they're all so far apart that I can't remember if it's possible to keep those pieces together when removing them. Pretty sure you cannot. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score mine was just pull the blue out & lift, when the blue cleared the light blue inner portion then the fuel line lifted right off. No disassembly of the clip was required. You have to lift the dark blue clip so far to get both side loose that I can easily see it coming off tho...
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yup, I just popped my blue clip off by accident! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i lost the clear plastic clip on my fuel line the second time i swapped internals. started the car and it was fine. then started driving and it leaked like a siv. so pulled over pushed down really hard and it sealed back up. ive swapped fuel pumps twice since i lost it and i havent had any leaks since. its been 10k. total fail on my fault but no leaks= no problems |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score There is also one on the other blue clip for the vacuum line on the front of the intake manifold.
__________________ Parting out car, 800whp motor with 4k miles on it, 6466 turbo kit... ect I also do diesel gear swaps hit me up for more info. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks I'll keep an eye out for it, I just hope it doesn't turn out to be something under the intake manifold that I might miss when I put things back together. I'll these freakin clips and electrical connections in impossible places is a bitch
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i actually found the same clip lying under the car last night....turns out that it is the clip that hold the vacuum line to the Intake manifold. does anyone happen to know if not having the clip installed will create a vacuum leak? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score takes less time to put the clip back on than to type that post. Getchyur butt out to the garage, pull the hose and put the retainer back on there! Oh, and that's blue piece is what the hose fastens to, it's as important as the retainer on the hose itself.
__________________ Was a Mazdaspeed6 GT #3476 TiGray slicktop Now in a BMW 135i - double the turbos, double the fun! E82.N54 2009 / BSM / A/T / Drop-in / PR CP / Berk Street / MHD / xHP 340hp / 371tq |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score ehhh it was just to feed my curiosity....I actually re-installed it prior to posting, for some reason I have been throwing a P2187 code (lean at idle on bank 1)and i am just trying diagnose the problem. The manual says to check the purge valve which is also along that vacuum line. I was just curious if anyone happened to know if not installing that clip could potentially cause enough of a leak to throw a code. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hmmmmm Sounds like time to do a boost leak test too. That should help you hunt down any leakers. Have you been seeing any funkiness with your fuel trims or AFR's?
__________________ Was a Mazdaspeed6 GT #3476 TiGray slicktop Now in a BMW 135i - double the turbos, double the fun! E82.N54 2009 / BSM / A/T / Drop-in / PR CP / Berk Street / MHD / xHP 340hp / 371tq |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score P2187-after doing a bit of research I think my ltft and stft values are really high (20.3%ltft and 12.5%stft)so I'm leaning more towards a boost leak, I will probalby also do a MAF calibration in the near future.....I started a thread on this but it was closed |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Only, I suspect, because you've already provided the first answer to your question- code suddenly appears, matched with distinctly high trims, that when searched leads you to troubleshoot the purge valve. don't bother with a maf cal till you've addressed the purge valve as that will likely bring your trims back in line.
__________________ Was a Mazdaspeed6 GT #3476 TiGray slicktop Now in a BMW 135i - double the turbos, double the fun! E82.N54 2009 / BSM / A/T / Drop-in / PR CP / Berk Street / MHD / xHP 340hp / 371tq |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have this problem. Also after doing lots of manifold might-as-well things like OCC, injector seals, TIGS, and valve cleaning, EGR delete, sparks. I'm not sure if you have anything to see real time fuel trims like me, but I've also had purge valve issues, and it's different from what I have now. Purge valve fuel trims jump pretty damn erratically, and eventually you'll throw a code for it. I have p2187 and 2188 at times, and sometimes they actually stop. My LTFT will be -18 or -20 at idle and on throttle or cruise will go from -14 to -10. I'll watch the STFT, sometimes at start up it'll be up to -25. After some driving it will cool down to normal and even positive fuel trim numbers, bringing the LTFT down some, sometimes it's also gone back up, it's always gradual. I'm not sure what triggers it so far, I have boost leak tested pretty meticulously, so it's not a massive leak. I'm suspecting a valve somewhere, perhaps the PCV on the motor, I will remove my OCC to eliminate possiblities soon.
__________________ Genwin Individual Throttle Body Webers 20B Swapped 1UZ w/ Hi-Cap Purple Loush and Trigonometric Valve Tumblers. Thetan Core Fogger System. P1@n0 Tuned to Load Burst Limit. Glacier Red '07. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I will be getting an accessport this week i only have my HF OBDII scanner. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Turned out to be boost leak in three different places...including the oil level indicator tube on the OCC all should be good now.......I hope |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'd like to hear if your problem is solved, where were the other 2 places
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| Not Ranked : 0 score me toooooo Share the info, perhaps save others the same grief
__________________ Was a Mazdaspeed6 GT #3476 TiGray slicktop Now in a BMW 135i - double the turbos, double the fun! E82.N54 2009 / BSM / A/T / Drop-in / PR CP / Berk Street / MHD / xHP 340hp / 371tq |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score ehhh it was just loose clamps around the boost tubes...I guess you really need to tighten down on the silicone ones more so than then OE tubes....anyways so far about 60 miles on the car with no CEL.....my ltft and stft's appear to be good now. |
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__________________ Genwin Individual Throttle Body Webers 20B Swapped 1UZ w/ Hi-Cap Purple Loush and Trigonometric Valve Tumblers. Thetan Core Fogger System. P1@n0 Tuned to Load Burst Limit. Glacier Red '07. | |
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