Fuel nozzle didn't click off, over filled tank
 

I was filling up at my regular point I always do, which takes about 13 gallons give or take .2
I wasn't watching the pump, was focused on the guy acting like a fool in the gas station. I felt like it was taking way too long so I glanced up at the pump to see how slow it was going, only to see it put in 16 gallons. Fuck... a little top off won't end the world but 3 gallons dude? Fuck me.

It ran fine at first and I was hoping I dodged the bullet, but after 5 miles it started running really lean and flaring up and stuttering if I didn't get it up to 1600 manually. Went in the store, came out and tried it again but my idle afr goes from 18-24 so I shut that sucker down before something broke because it was running so bad.

Am I gonna need an entirely new charcoal canister? Or should I bother trying to siphon some fuel out from the tank and driving it back home so I can drain the canister. Really don't want to tow it.

I managed to take a few logs I can upload if that would help decide if it's something else, but considering how close these two events happened, I can't imagine what else it would be

sorry i have no answers for you but i'm interested to read about the outcomes with the canister...i had the habit to overfill...

But at some point even if the canister is flooded and the vent valve is leaking open to atmosphere, it should not hurt the car much to drive it back home....Have you tried to block the path from the under hood evap solenoid ?

That is extreme behavior for an overfill. I would guess that your purge valve might be fucked, but it could be the canister as well I suppose.

Unless you've got emissions testing, the P0442/P0443 codes shouldn't have any real detrimental effect on your car (or your wallet).

Yeah I bought a purge valve. I started it up today and it's even worse, but I'm not getting any codes so I really don't know where to look

It's possible that you might have a bad O2 sensor. Have you touched anything else on the car recently?

Nah, haven't done anything for a couple thousand miles. The primary o2 sensor would occasionally not read, and my AFR would be stuck at 14.85. If I turned the car on for 10 seconds then turn the engine on it would go away. I haven't had any issues with it besides that, but maybe the sensor just took a dump. Any cheap way of testing this besides buying a new sensor?

Got my car towed back, looked through my logs and first thing I noticed is my STFT is stuck at 25! Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought it's supposed to be at 0 (+ or - 1 or 2 depending on the situation) when you're at idle. I checked for vacuum leaks, swapped the purge valve, re-seated everything from the turbo up, even pull the IM off and put it back together just to ensure I have no leaks. It threw the 2187 code at the first stop light when the problem wasn't as bad, second stop light it got REALLY bad, then when I pulled in the store I reflashed the tune to see if it would clear up at all but it didn't, and now it's not throwing any codes at all. I'm too scared to run it with this issue. Could this be a problem with my VVT? I'm at that mileage where I need to do it but it hasn't given me issues before. If I hopped timing it wouldn't have slowly progressed, it'd be the sound of Satan laughing at me from my engine bay. Positive I didn't jump timing, but could this be related to the faulty VVT actuator?

attached are the 2 logs I bit my tongue while grabbing
I'm gonna pull my o2 sensors and soak them in gasoline. I have had issues with the primary one in the past but the workaround was to turn the car on for 5-10 seconds prior to turning the motor. If the problem clears up after soaking them in gas, I guess I know what the culprit is. However I won't know that until tomorrow.

Any ideas? I got this week off to fix it since it wasn't as simple as I hoped.

I think Vansquish nailed it. Your primary O2 sensor is failing. I doubt cleaning it will solve the problem. I suspect you will need to replace it. Get an identical OEM part, as aftermarket substitutes seem not work well. There are on-line sources for the OEM part that are cheaper than buying from your local dealer.

Edit: just realized I misread what you said entirely. I bought an OEM one used so hopefully that fixes the problem.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2010-2013-M...8AAOSwm6xdpRaB

I might buy a used one honestly, I'd prefer to go OEM but they're so expensive. Used ones are cheaper, and eBay covers the buyers back to deaths door so if anything happens I'll have that.

Ok, let's say that replacing the primary o2 sensor doesn't fix it... What next? After this I'm kinda stuck, because I have no codes to go off of, only the symptoms but with this I will have covered everything these symptoms point to.

Swapping the O2 sensor didn't help. Shot the wires and nothing reads bad, everything works as it should. Checked MAP n MAF sensors again, checked for leaks... no luck.

Have you tried the KOEO fuel pressure test? That might show you if you've got a bad HPRV that just coincidentally crapped out when you overfilled. It might also help diagnose whether you've got an issue with your injectors. For example, I am wondering if your problems might be traceable to debris in the gas tank that was knocked free when you overfilled. This seems unlikely, but not impossible.

Yeah, nothing seems wrong there. If it happened in a single moment I could get a better idea of what happened, but since it gradually got worse I'm at a loss for ideas here. The hprv is somewhat new. Swapped it out this spring, and it doesn't appear to be stuck open or shut.

Is there any chance that maybe a seal or a cylinder ring broke? Even if that was the case I feel like it'd have taken effect much faster than this did