HPFP Hardline cracked and leaking!!

[MPS_Fan]

Today after a long trip i could smell some gas. I checked everything in the engine bay and noticed that the fuel hardline from the HPFP had a small hole where fuel was coming out. Its a very small crack, don´t know how this line can break. I towed the car home and looking now for the part number of the line, does anybody know it?
Does anybody also know how to change this line. From looking intothe engine bay, it seem like a painful job swap this piece of shit out.

Edit:
Found a how to for swapping:
how to high pressure fuel line porting

But still need part number.

[twenty5psi]

L3K9-13-290A

[MPS_Fan]

Thanks, wanted to order it in germany, but it costs here 240$, WTF !?!?!?!

Ordered at Onlinemazdaparts, for 136$ shipped to germany...

[twenty5psi]

Not the most fun job, but it's do-able. You'll have to take off part of the intake at least, the line has brackets holding it that you have to undo(you'll see on the new part.) You can sneak it out from underneath the EGR pipe though.

[ms3rick]

Jb weld!!!


All kidding aside, glad you didn't go boom! Good luck with install!

[kritz]

Pics of crack. Can see if we can source one here for you if you'd like. Do you have a MK1 or MK2? Also can see if a mate of mine has one floating around in the UK. Let me know.

[Code Monkey]

Should have posted a wanted-to-buy, I have a spare lying around, good luck with install.

[MPS_Fan]

I need it within next few days, because my car is DD. So you would have to ship it via express... That would cost about the same.
My car could have start burning, because fuel was spraying directly on my exhaust mani. Its a part that should never fail, because it could end with ZZB.

Its all the same with the car manufacturer, using cheap ass China shit everywhere they can.

[skeeter149]

Mine cracked at the rail side and I had fuel running on the tranny. Swap isn't too bad, hardest part for me was getting that housing or shielding by the rail off cause I couldn't see the bolts. But I think all I took off was intake up to inlet. Definately doable just take your time.

[MPS_Fan]

I attached a picture of the crack.

Like you see it cracked directly where it bends. Since I only have 15k miles and never touched this line, it looks like a material fault.

I needed only 45mins to remove this part, you don´t have to drain coolant or do another crazy things like in the how to. I only removed TMIC, Battery+Tray, Intake (TIP still inside). Thats all! You just need some good tools and a good feeling, because some bolts are hidden.

I hope my new part will arrive tomorrow!

[atvfreek]

Originally Posted by MPS_Fan I attached a picture of the crack. Like you see it cracked directly where it bends. Since I only have 15k miles and never touched this line, it looks like a material fault. I needed only 45mins to remove this part, you don´t have to drain coolant or do another crazy things like in the how to. I only removed TMIC, Battery+Tray, Intake (TIP still inside). Thats all! You just need some good tools and a good feeling, because some bolts are hidden. I hope my new part will arrive tomorrow!

That is exactly where mine cracked as well. I had about 38k miles on my car at the time.

[Lex]

Did you guys have all the bolts holding it in place and bracing?

[MPS_Fan]

Originally Posted by Lex Did you guys have all the bolts holding it in place and bracing?

Yes!

I think its cheap galvaniced steel made in china. It cracked directly where its most stressed during bending procedure. The wall thickness of the line is good, but the material is probaly shit...

@Lex
If onlinemazdaparts shipped the part yesterday like they told, i should rock that bitch tomorrow again. Will send you logs from last revision

[Lex]

Originally Posted by MPS_Fan Yes! I think its cheap china galvaniced steel. It cracked directly where its most stressed during bending procedure. The wall thickness of the line is good, but the material is probaly shit...

This is a major safety hazard. This could easily trigger a recall. I would take it to the dealer and make a case if you have the time since if that line is untouched it can happen on stock cars.

[atvfreek]

Originally Posted by Lex This is a major safety hazard. This could easily trigger a recall. I would take it to the dealer and make a case if you have the time since if that line is untouched it can happen on stock cars.

Yup everything was in tact on mine. I have a friend at Mazda, so mine was taken in and fixed at Mazda under warranty, as no "performance/aftermarket parts" made it fail.

This is a major safety hazard. Especially with the high pressure fuel vapor that was going into the engine bay while the engine was running.

[MPS_Fan]

Originally Posted by Lex This is a major safety hazard. This could easily trigger a recall. I would take it to the dealer and make a case if you have the time since if that line is untouched it can happen on stock cars.

The line sprayed fuel directly on my exhaust header. The car could have start burning!

[Lex]

Post a picture of the line and its location and where it cracked in the engine bay if you can. We can do a warning and people can look it over and take it into dealers if any cracking is seen.

[atvfreek]

Originally Posted by Lex Post a picture of the line and its location and where it cracked in the engine bay if you can. We can do a warning and people can look it over and take it into dealers if any cracking is seen.

In the picture that is posted above, that is the bend that goes up to the HPFP. Mine cracked at the same bend, but was spraying toward the battery. I'm trying to find the pic of mine and when I find it, I will post it as well.

[MPS_Fan]

I attached a picture where you can see the whole line. It cracked in direction to the engine.

maybe i should send the picture directly to mazda. I was thinking about towing the car to mazda dealer, but didn´t want to pay for towing it to dealer. so decited to fix it by myself.

[Etipp98]

I have had mine crack twice when I owned a MS6, both were near the rail where the 1/4 line goes into the larger end/flange. Definitely not good to happen when you are out of town with no Nator people around in the middle of nowhere.

[x09MS3GT]

Just going out on a limb here, but pulling this line out of the way in order remove the CDFP and install FP internals, could cause stress in that region if you bend it down enough no ?

Its certainly a possibility.

[MPS_Fan]

Originally Posted by x09MS3GT Just going out on a limb here, but pulling this line out of the way in order remove the CDFP and install FP internals, could cause stress in that region if you bend it down enough no ? Its certainly a possibility.

if that would be the cause, it should have break much sooner. I´m with AT Internals since 12k miles and 2 years.
Did not applied any pressure on line, since it lines up perfectly without force if you do the install correct.
I have many years mechanic experience, so it was no install error

[atvfreek]

Originally Posted by x09MS3GT Just going out on a limb here, but pulling this line out of the way in order remove the CDFP and install FP internals, could cause stress in that region if you bend it down enough no ? Its certainly a possibility.

It's always a possibility. However my internals were in since my car had 5k miles. So it went 30+k miles and almost 3 years. But it doesn't mean it wasn't stressed from the internals install

[Lex]

This is a good reason to be careful during the internals install. I think we will have a hard time finding a car without internals that this has happened to simply because internals are something everyone puts in.

The pressure spikes in the line from normal operation do affect it as they create vibrations and resonances. So a weak point can crack at a much later time.

The failure here is pretty serious as it can cause a pretty bad fire.

[blackms3_71]

So are you saying that by installing internals is the risk or by having the internals in and running 1750 psi is putting greater stress on that line?

[06Speed6]

@Tokay444
@SilverDemon

Looks like it work hardened and fractured to me, but that is not a area where it should work harden from vibration or heat expansion/contraction. That should be mostly at the ends of the line.

It also looks worn in that area, maybe the material was or got too thin and the metal itself failed.

This doesnt seem like the normal CDFP hard line failure to me.

[SilverDemon]

That crack does not look like to me that it was from removing the pump by bending the line out of the way. I would think a crack would develop on the inside or outside of the bend.

I am curious, were the bolts that affixes the clamp on the hard line tight?

[skeeter149]

mine cracked at the round part that connects to the rail with the two bolt holes. where it comes out. never touched that side prior, only the other side to do internals 3 times. cracked just opposite the o ring.

[Lex]

Hard to say at the moment what the root cause is.

Maybe not a bad idea to loosen the line a little when maneuvering it to install the HPFP just to avoid any stresses.

Was the line rubbing against anything at that point? That area looks scuffed up.

[MPS_Fan]

It looks scufffed because I sanded some material down to check it for bubbles. The line itself was looking perfectly fine when I removed it.

[kritz]

I located one for you in the UK Klaus, I sent your contact info to him. His name is Ross.

Sent from fastest ko4 Pu!

[MPS_Fan]

Got your mail. Thanks!!!

[Oni]

Originally Posted by Lex Hard to say at the moment what the root cause is. Maybe not a bad idea to loosen the line a little when maneuvering it to install the HPFP just to avoid any stresses. Was the line rubbing against anything at that point? That area looks scuffed up.

I use quarter inch stainless steel tubing like this on PD pumps at work and the stuff is rated for 5000 psi. We blow heads off piston pumps when the relief valves fail and never see tubing rupture. It's connected with compression fittings like this and usually under a lot more stress over time. My vote is poor material quality, same as the cheap ass Mazda bolts.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[Renn]

Absolutely this should be a recall. There was a very similar recall (faulty fuel line in the engine compartment) to a batch of 300Z's in the 80's, one of which I bought used - unaware of the recall. Car ended up immolating itself.

[Snotrocket]

Has there been any updates to this? A fix? An aftermarket solution?

[Code Monkey]

No.

[Snotrocket]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey No.

Seems like this should be the next order of business.

I blew mine today, very Frustrated.

I'm sure I'll run into this problem again down the road.

[Code Monkey]

I should probably send my cracked line to Mazda.

[Sergeant_M]

Same thing happened to me last night. Was having trouble finding the leak until it got dark out and I hit it with the flashlight. It's pissing all over the side of the engine. Can anyone provide some guidance on the best place to source this part?

[Hargarbl]

Originally Posted by Sergeant_M Same thing happened to me last night. Was having trouble finding the leak until it got dark out and I hit it with the flashlight. It's pissing all over the side of the engine. Can anyone provide some guidance on the best place to source this part?

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