Another comprehensive car audio upgrade!

[attomica]

As most other discerning listeners, I felt right away that the Bose system in the 2013 MS3 with Tech Package was really only a stand-in until it could be changed out or upgraded. I knew I would be doing just that when I took delivery of the car, but I didn’t know what path I would take. After a while, I decided I wanted to keep the stock head unit and upgrade everything else. This is the thread that confirmed what I had been thinking of was possible:
Aftermarket stereo with stock headunit

When I saw that thread, I started to plan-out my upgrades and acquire the components. I’ve chosen different components, but the path I’ve taken in terms of install and connection is similar or identical to those others from whom I’ve learned through their threads, so a lot of my install process is covered in those threads. I’m making this thread to touch on some specific things I encountered in my process. I’m thankful for the knowledge other MS3 owners have passed on and I want to be as helpful to others who come after me.

These are threads that educated me on other aspects of the sound system upgrade:
Car audio install in progress (pics)
Full Audio Install, Deadening with Pictures
ETERNAL's System Build

These are the components I used:

Head unit signal interface ($127) with Remote Bass Control ($27)




Amp ($499) & Connection Kit ($80)




Front door speakers ($195)



Rear door speakers ($104)



Subwoofer ($330)



I’ve done sound system install and upgrades to pretty much all of my past vehicles, so I wasn’t a complete newb to what’s involved. I did the power tap on one weekend and the sub enclosure in another weekend. Then, I had a four-day holiday weekend where I did the amp, signal interface, and door speaker installs, and then finished the whole process.

This was my install sequence:
1. Power tap from the battery to under the passenger seat for the amp and signal interface
2. Subwoofer enclosure
3. Amp and signal interface connection
4. Front door speakers
5. Rear door speakers

Power Tap

Using the amp connection kit, I ran 4/0 cable from the + battery clamp to a fuse block mounted on the outside/front of the battery box. Then, I ran the cable from the fuse block, across the top of the firewall over to the passenger side, down through the firewall (via the plastic plug-grommet), behind the glove box, and under the passenger seat.

Using a Dremel, I carved a small opening in the top edge for the cable to pass through when the battery box cover is in place.




To hold the cable in its loom across the top of the firewall, I used adhesive mounting pads.




These are great because they allow multiple mounting possibilities and they’re small so they occupy hardly any space. They have adhesive pads and there is a hole through which you can attach them with a screw. I used both methods to ensure the cable won’t fall. I used a total of four of them across the top of the firewall.




The use of firewall plug/grommet passage is covered at length in those other threads, but here is how I handled creating the hole through it.

Using a Dremel with a flat cutting bit, I cleared out the center section of the three “ribs” to make just a flat, circular cavity.



Then, I drilled a centered hole using a Forstner bit.



Through that hole, I installed the compression fitting through which the cable passes into the passenger cabin.



Subwoofer Enclosure

This was something that occupied a lot of my thoughts. I was (and still am) fascinated with King_Arthur’s Stealth Sub (2012 MS3 Stealth Sub Install) and actually attempted to recreate it, but was unsuccessful. The idea of replacing the stock sub with a better one in the same location is great in that it wouldn’t be visible and there would be no loss of trunk space. I may retry this method in the future. I also created a regular box enclosure that would fit against the back of the rear seats, but when it was finished, I didn’t like the way it looked and it prevented the ease of the rear seat fold-down feature. So I came up with another solution.



My employer gets these big rolls of cable on spools with a cardboard center section. They are super dense and rigid 12” diameter cylinders with a .25” wall thickness. I calculated the needed volume for my sub and found that one of these tubes would be perfect.



I got a circle template (which is fucking awesome) for my router and just had to cut three circles from .75” MDF and slide them into the tube. Two layers on the bottom would help balance the weight of the unit and would allow a recess for the terminal cup so the sub wire could run under it and it would still sit flat. The top ring is what the subwoofer drops into and is anchored in place. Everything fit beautifully and was super tight. I used just a little glue and made a spacing template to place finishing nails evenly around the circumference of the tube in each layer.




A detail I added was a routed channel for sub wire passage so the enclosure would sit flat. The terminal cup is not yet installed in these pics, but I bought a circular one and centered it with the receptacles oriented toward the channel so there would be no kinking or twisting of the sub wire. Turned out beautifully!




After assembly, I sprayed the bottom with rubberized truck bed lining. This does a great job of keeping it from sliding around in the back. Then, I found some carpet that is a close match to our stock carpet and covered the tube using 3M spray adhesive. I stapled it down on the inside, around where the sub is so there’d be no lifting and also along the seam on the back where the carpet edges meet. There is already some draw, but the staples are doing their job and the seam is hidden, so all is good. No shown in the pics is the black strap I installed to hold the enclosure in place. It goes through the side panel and is a solid method to keep the sub in place in conjunction with the rubberized bottom area.






Amp (PDX-V9) and Head Unit Signal Interface (LC7i)

In Georgediego’s thread (Aftermarket stereo with stock headunit), he said he was able to fit his amp under the stock amp bracket with the LC7i on top. Unfortunately, the amp I chose did not fit under the stock bracket, so I had to fabricate a solution. I created an aluminum “table” onto which the amp is mounted and then the LC7i is mounted on top of the amp. When assembled, the amp, LC7i and the table become one solid unit that mounts on the same studs the stock amp bracket mounted to under the passenger seat. The LC7i is mounted to a bent piece of aluminum that surrounds the amp, but stands off about .125” all around so air circulation can keep the amp cool.

Front-facing side



Rear-facing side (the cut-out allows continued function of the floor vent)



Bottom



Here it is on place.



I don’t know how much time I spent looking for the stock amp plugs to use to keep the stock plugs on my car, but I couldn’t find anything. So, I cut the plugs off and soldered/heat shrinked each wire so I could jack into the LC7i. I never did find a good solution and I feel this is sort of a hack job, but I did the best I could with the info I could find.



I labeled each extension to keep confusion at bay.



I drilled into the floor right next to the front mounting stud for the amp ground.



Other Stuff

I mounted the remote bass control knob and LED in the center console, next to the shifter.




The tweeter from the front door components are too large to fit in the stock tweeter location. I bought blank trim (sail) panels, thinking I would mount them in there, but I just couldn’t figure a way to do that and still keep the eyeball mount feature it has. So, I installed the blank sail panels and relocated the tweeter into the door panel. The eyeball mount allows positioning of the tweeter to optimize sound direction. I’m very happy with the results.




I didn’t mention anything about the door speakers (except for the tweeters above) because they were so damn easy. I had some panels of high-density styrene standing by to make spacers, but they weren’t needed. Both front and rear door speakers just dropped right in using their included adapters. It was almost like Alpine designed these speakers specifically for the MS3. There’s no window interference, no magnet interference…nothing. I was hugely relieved because that was one of the things I was dreading.

All told, I’m very satisfied with how the install went and how the performance of my sound system has increased. The detail and bass at all volumes is much improved. I have to say, though, the improvement isn’t as dramatic as I thought it might be. I guess I comes down to how important sound quality is to a listener. I can see the stock system being just fine for a lot of people.

A couple other things:

I was never sure about this, but the front center speaker and the two pillar speakers in the cargo area are now non-functioning. They were just fill speakers and there is nothing missing in terms of sound with them cut off.

I took a road trip this Christmas and used the NAV system a lot. I discovered that the volume of the voice guidance has been compromised. It will only go so high, which isn’t high enough. I have to turn the music off and close all windows, basically make it as quiet as possible inside, so I can hear it. I guess there was something with the stock Bose amp that handled that as a separate thing and now it’s gone. I can still use the nav okay, but it was nice, not having to strain to hear it.

[shamie]

Why did you choose a thin mount sub if you just dropped it in a foot tall enclosure? Kind of defeats the purpose doesn't it?

[attomica]

Well, I had purchased the sub with the intent of creating something like the stealth sub I mentioned. That didn't work out, so I had to adapt it to a different set-up.

[shamie]

What's the volume you ended up with?

[Pseudonym]

nice components, the pdx-v9 especially. i was this close to getting one on trade but a helix 5 channel came my way for nearly nothing, brand new. your install is clean as fuck and it looks like youve been at this game for awhile and also have major ADD.

[attomica]

Originally Posted by shamie What's the volume you ended up with?

Unfortunately, I don't have a way of measuring that. So far, it's just my perception, but there's no doubt that it packs a much bigger punch.

Originally Posted by Pseudonym nice components, the pdx-v9 especially. i was this close to getting one on trade but a helix 5 channel came my way for nearly nothing, brand new. your install is clean as fuck and it looks like youve been at this game for awhile and also have major ADD.

Yeah, the PDX-V9 is pretty kick-ass. I really like its flexibility and small size and the wire to plug to amp makes connection really easy. Thanks for your compliments! ADD is there, but I just have a light case of it. Just enough to keep shit clean and in order.

[Oni]

You could always get a stealth mount from @JTMS3; for that shallow 10", I'm sure he'd make it work for you.

[attomica]

Originally Posted by Oni You could always get a stealth mount from @JTMS3; for that shallow 10", I'm sure he'd make it work for you.

Is the stealth mount the enclosure that mounts against the side of the back cargo area?

[Oni]

Originally Posted by attomica Is the stealth mount the enclosure that mounts against the side of the back cargo area?

He has done a jack box version that fits where you describe as well as one that sits in the spare tire where the stock bose sub is. I'd look through his thread in this forum and PM him if you need help. Because you mounted your amp the way you did, you have a lot of options.

[Sandman978]

This build is clean as fuck. Good job and can't wait to see the stealth mode engaged later down the road lol

[Captainobvious]

Thanks for the mention in the OP about my build thread. I'm glad it was able to help in some way with your build

Nice job on the install. It is very cleanly laid out and executed. Creative usage of the cylinder as well. I wonder how that cardboard will hold up. I'd almost say you might be better off if you soak it with fiberglass resin and put a layer or two of fiberglass chopped mat on the inside walls as well. But if it's working well for you, that's what counts.





-Steve

[attomica]

Originally Posted by Captainobvious Thanks for the mention in the OP about my build thread. I'm glad it was able to help in some way with your build Nice job on the install. It is very cleanly laid out and executed. Creative usage of the cylinder as well. I wonder how that cardboard will hold up. I'd almost say you might be better off if you soak it with fiberglass resin and put a layer or two of fiberglass chopped mat on the inside walls as well. But if it's working well for you, that's what counts. -Steve

Thanks, brother! You definitely have taken your MS3 beyond what most others do and I admire your choices. Your thread was quite helpful. Speaking of, it's been a while since you've updated. Are you still modifying with your audio system?

Good point the longevity of the cardboard tube. I never really gave that any thought. It's super dense, but I guess delamination could happen. That's something I may have to keep an eye on. I still want to do the spare tire sub enclosure, so the tube will go at some point anyway.

[speedfreak44]

Those pdx series amps are one of the best I have used. Good choice.

[Captainobvious]

Originally Posted by attomica Thanks, brother! You definitely have taken your MS3 beyond what most others do and I admire your choices. Your thread was quite helpful. Speaking of, it's been a while since you've updated. Are you still modifying with your audio system? Good point the longevity of the cardboard tube. I never really gave that any thought. It's super dense, but I guess delamination could happen. That's something I may have to keep an eye on. I still want to do the spare tire sub enclosure, so the tube will go at some point anyway.

Yep, I'm always tweaking and tuning

I'm pulling out and redoing the trunk build to include 4 JL HD amps and to add a pair of the Stereo Integrity 12" SI BM mkIV subs back there in the spare tire well to reinforce the one I have up front hidden inside the dash.


I have a sketch up of the proposed layout. I just need to transfer to wood and start making some saw dust on the router

I'm also playing around with some different midrange speakers at the moment.

[Coltzxli]

This is a really awesome write up, thank you for taking the time so do this. Also, that sub enclosure looks really good, I've made a fiber glass one in the past and it was much harder to achieve a quality carpet finish.

Anyways, to my question, can I just buy Alpine speakers or equivalents to replace the stock Bose ones without using an Amp or LC7i?

[tdement]

Originally Posted by Coltzxli This is a really awesome write up, thank you for taking the time so do this. Also, that sub enclosure looks really good, I've made a fiber glass one in the past and it was much harder to achieve a quality carpet finish. Anyways, to my question, can I just buy Alpine speakers or equivalents to replace the stock Bose ones without using an Amp or LC7i?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you'll want a proper amp rated for your speakers. Running it through the stock interface power won't really unlock the potential of the speakers.

[Coltzxli]

Originally Posted by tdement Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you'll want a proper amp rated for your speakers. Running it through the stock interface power won't really unlock the potential of the speakers.

This is kind of what I gathered/figured.

If you have a blown speaker you can use an aftermarket replacement of the same Ohm rating and it will sound better, but strictly upgrading the speakers on an otherwise functioning Bose system won't net more than a 5% upgrade.

I'm getting some distortion around volume level 36-40 which because of my exhaust system is needed for highway driving. But I cannot tell where the distortion is coming from

[tdement]

Originally Posted by Coltzxli This is kind of what I gathered/figured. If you have a blown speaker you can use an aftermarket replacement of the same Ohm rating and it will sound better, but strictly upgrading the speakers on an otherwise functioning Bose system won't net more than a 5% upgrade. I'm getting some distortion around volume level 36-40 which because of my exhaust system is needed for highway driving. But I cannot tell where the distortion is coming from

What does it sound like? Is the sound flattening out or a flapping sound? If so, you could have damaged speakers. Another possibility is you simply don't have enough power for the speakers. If it's stock, I wouldn't be surprised in either case, best way to know is to take a look at the speakers. If they aren't damaged, it's worth looking into an amp with proper power support.

[Jeff23spl]

damaged speaker or your bass adjustment level is set too high or you have a door panel rattling...Sound deadening may help for the last case...

as mentioned, more powerful speaker is likely to be heavier to move than oem so it may even reduce the output level if you don't replace the factory amp.

[Coltzxli]

Originally Posted by tdement What does it sound like? Is the sound flattening out or a flapping sound? If so, you could have damaged speakers. Another possibility is you simply don't have enough power for the speakers. If it's stock, I wouldn't be surprised in either case, best way to know is to take a look at the speakers. If they aren't damaged, it's worth looking into an amp with proper power support.

When I have some more time next week I will look at the speakers for any wear and tear.

I'm not much of an audio-head my best description would be cymbals are muddy and crackly, vocals are not as pronounced and when the song starts to really jam everything sounds like the a headphone jack isn't plugged in all the way if that makes sense (to clarify I stream using bluetooth but this is just a simile)

[tdement]

Originally Posted by Coltzxli When I have some more time next week I will look at the speakers for any wear and tear. I'm not much of an audio-head my best description would be cymbals are muddy and crackly, vocals are not as pronounced and when the song starts to really jam everything sounds like the a headphone jack isn't plugged in all the way if that makes sense (to clarify I stream using bluetooth but this is just a simile)

I had bad distortion on the speakers in my old car... it turned out the rubber had completely disintegrated. Was very sad/funny to see.

Originally Posted by Coltzxli When I have some more time next week I will look at the speakers for any wear and tear. I'm not much of an audio-head my best description would be cymbals are muddy and crackly, vocals are not as pronounced and when the song starts to really jam everything sounds like the a headphone jack isn't plugged in all the way if that makes sense (to clarify I stream using bluetooth but this is just a simile)

I could also be a wiring issue. I'd get someone who knows what their doing to do some diagnostics for wiring unless you are knowledgeable enough. Don't hurt yourself lol.

[DeBruce]

This is a great guide and i am planning on replicating this as much as possible

Does anyone know what the updated as in 2018-19 Alpine speakers are that have the same specs?

[attomica]

Hey guys! I’m glad my install guide is helpful. I’m happy to say I still have and love my Speed and I’m glad I upgraded using the components I used. Every time I drive it I enjoy the sound system. It’s been four years since my initial post, so some components may have changed, but I’m sure there’s something close, if not a direct replacement, that you can use.