installing downpipe

[adlpb]

I think it's this one
My Ebay DP

[Bucker]

The CS DP comes with a nice, stainless antifouler. I didnt use that shit because the AP lets you disable that faggot CEL anyway.

[ChimmyChong]

For gen2

If your 2nd o2 bung is far away from the exhaust stream (built with a anitfouler/spacer) you will get CEL's

P0137: Oxygen O2 Sensor Low Voltage (Bank1, Sensor2)
*** You will get around .0V - .1v causing the Lean code from not heating up properly

P0139: Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank1, Sensor2)
*** /\ Same /\

P2096: Post catalyst fuel trim system too lean
*** /\ Same /\ Im running pig rich at idle at around 13.8-14.0 also when cruising

You need to get a bung welded directly onto the exhaust so the o2 sensor actually sits in the stream. This will get rid of the possible three CEL's and you will just get one for having no cats (which can be tuned out via ATR).

I just got my new bung welded on yesterday. The bung cost me $11 at a local performance shop. The welding (mig) cost $50 from Midas (i have friends there).

I have the ebay catless DP and I know that other Pu's running more reputable brands are running into the same issue even with a catted DP like @akbrazil running a catted UR DP.

Source: Check Engine Light (P2098)

[lax22pearl]

I have a first Gen btw and im getting a cel for both sensors. Would the first one need a defouler also?

Sorry just noticed this was in the sec Gen section. I searched and found thisndidnt realize it

[skeurton]

Just curious... with an extended bung, does the CEL come up right away? The original UR downpipe had an extended bung that caused problems. I have the revised one which places the sensor directly in the exhaust stream. 100 miles so far and no CEL.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

[ChimmyChong]

Not instantly but after a drive cycle or two... Mine took awhile to actually pop up. Once it did it would come back pretty fast after clearing the DTC's. you have to actually reset your ecu (unplug battery) after fixing the issue.

I think your fine as long as the 2nd O2 is in the exhaust stream.

[dr_banano]

but with the cobb donwpipe i wont be facing cel;s or will i???

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by dr_banano but with the cobb donwpipe i wont be facing cel;s or will i???

No, Cobb does not give you a CEL

[stang9779]

Its pretty much like the others have said. its doable on raps or stands and takea a long time. take your time and walk away if you have too. You don't want to mess anything up, it's not that hard just takes a lot of time. get a buddy for help and have some beers. make it fun time will go faster.

If it was to through CEL you can just go into ATR and make your map where it wont come on again. This is done under edit--advanced engine parameters-- toggles. Just take out the P0421 and wont come up again. AP is the master of all for our cars.

[dr_banano]

well having a storm and downpipe havnt recieved it yet cause of the delay so no installing downpipe this weekend but i changed the spark plugs ngk step colder ill take some logs tonight and see

[dr_banano]

well seems stuff changed got home and look what i found ill see if i can installed it tomorow in the shop cause i dont have a o2 sensor key yet also a question about the xle bpv should i touch the spring or leave it as it comes ????

[thatsmrgimp2u]

I would leave the spring alone personally. Ive got the CPE catted dp and still used two defoulers for the downstream o2 sensor. Havent got a cel yet.

[Bishounen0205]

Just curious about something. I'm waiting to install my downpipe since I want someone with experience to help me out on the install, but people that their o2 sensors have stripped, why not find a tap and die kit and rethread the o2 sensor? I haven't heard of anyone trying it on these cars, any reason why? I've seen it on a few Lexus and Subaru boards, just wondering if any of you guys knew why

[thatsmrgimp2u]

I think you would have to see a stripped o2 sensor out of a mzr to realize it's more difficult than just rethreading it. They get pretty damn tore up.

[Bishounen0205]

Lol thanks for the reply, yea I've never done a downpipe on a speed3 so I'm not to familiar with it, that's why I'm waiting to find someone that's willing to help me out. I've seen the o2 sensors for sale on street unit, does anyone know the difference between the first gen and 2nd gen primary o2 sensors? They sell them separate for each gen and the 2nd gen is almost $400 while the 1st gen is only about $200

[skeurton]

Originally Posted by Bishounen0205 Lol thanks for the reply, yea I've never done a downpipe on a speed3 so I'm not to familiar with it, that's why I'm waiting to find someone that's willing to help me out. I've seen the o2 sensors for sale on street unit, does anyone know the difference between the first gen and 2nd gen primary o2 sensors? They sell them separate for each gen and the 2nd gen is almost $400 while the 1st gen is only about $200

Yup, they are different, as seen here:

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...-sensor-84333/

I bought a gen2 one from onlinemazdaparts.com as backup for when I installed my downpipe, just in case it got stripped. Luckily, I didn't encounter any such problems and it came out fairly easy, so I was able to re-use it. The one I bought is now up for sale in the FS section in case anyone needs it and wants to save some money.

[warlord]

I installed my cp-e down pipe on wednesday.. O2 sensors...no problem. Manifold flange bolts...no problem. Manifold lower heat shield....major pain in the ass. Matter of fact all the heat shields were a pita. They all have to be removed to get the stock dp out of the car. Cp-e instuctions say that you can turn the stock dp a certain way and remove it from the car with the shields on. I fucked with it for over an hour then just removed the shields. Took me almost eight hours to do this install on ramps in a 95 degree garage. Going to a stage 2 map is totally worth it though. Pic is how I mounted the pre-cat O2 wire so it doesn't lay on the new dp.

[skeurton]

Originally Posted by warlord Manifold lower heat shield....major pain in the ass. Matter of fact all the heat shields were a pita.

LOL. Same for me. That lower heat shield is a bitch. That was honestly the hardest part. Also, getting the stock DP mounting bracket out from underneath the car was a pain in the ass. I had to use all sorts of swivel and wobble sockets to get to the one bolt. But it did make getting the DP out a breeze.

[dr_banano]

so you must take the lower sheild of the cat from the dowpipe to take it out??

[warlord]

The upper and lower manifold heat shields have to be removed to access the dp flange bolts. The two heat shields that are attached to the dp itself plus the bracket that attaches the dp to the car have to be removed so the dp can be removed from the underside of the car. Like Skurton said, your going to need a wobble socket and different socket extentions to gain access to all these different bolts. You won't have straight access to most of them. Wear gloves too. My hands looked like I stuck them in a fish tank full of Piranha after the install.

[thatsmrgimp2u]

I was able to get my dp off without removing the heat-shields on it. But im gen1 so that could be the difference there.

[rghispanic88]

Originally Posted by thatsmrgimp2u I was able to get my dp off without removing the heat-shields on it. But im gen1 so that could be the difference there.

damn, how lucky

i have a theory, maybe u have small hands, which tell me u are a midget. makes perfect sense, LOL

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by rghispanic88 damn, how lucky i have a theory, maybe u have small hands, which tell me u are a midget. makes perfect sense, LOL

[thatsmrgimp2u]

Eh. 6'0 260lbs. Big ass midget. If only i had their strength... It was a BITCH getting the dp to line up with the turbo though, i needed a second set of hands for that.

[f-castrillo]

A second set of hands definitely helps the install. I'm a noob when it comes to doing installs, and even brought a friend, and it took us 9 hours lol. The most time consuming parts were removing the heat shields (we couldn't even get the first shield off without removing the rear TMIC mounting bracket), having to run to the store for an 8mm wrench (between all the toolsets we had, we only had as small as a 10mm lol), and the process of guiding the old DP out and the new DP in. Lining up with the turbo wasn't a problem, and we were able to get all but one of the bolts torqued down properly. The remaining nut is so close to the bellmouth flange opening, that it's impossible to get a socket seated on it, and because of the tight area it's in, you can really only turn it 1/16th at a time with the proper sized wrench.

This is for the CNT catted DP, by the way, so other downpipes may have better clearance for tightening that nut. It's easily visible on stands, without having to remove any of the chassis braces, so I may get it up on stands or a ramp and spend an hour tightening it further lol.

Oh, and PB blaster is your friend. I bought two cans just in case, and I nearly went through the entire first can. The O2 sensors took some force with the breaker bar to loosen, but once the initial loosening was done, spray the shit out of the bolt/threads and slowly work the fluid in by tightening/loosening until it comes out easy.

[Keemo577]

I recently installed a CP-e catless DP and got a cell as soon as I stepped on it a bit.

As for PB Blaster.. the SHIT. I soaked my bolts a week in advance and the day prior, and they all came out like butter. Only ones that gave me Hell were the bolts connecting the DP to the midpipe. I didn't soak those till the install.

[mrQQ]

hm, are we sure about these part numbers from Bosch? rockauto.com gives completely different part numbers for bosch part for narrow band o2 sensor (3 different ones actually..)

[dr_banano]

well began this night ripping apart for the downpipe install, sensors out both no problem, upper manifold sheild out, i just had a problem with the last bolt it came round headed of the shield that covers the bolts of the downpipe to the maniflod, i stripped the head of one of them and now dont know how the hell totake it off so i couldnt get to the 5 bolts to pb blast them sh..t ill try tomorow with a pressure rench see if it does it

[dr_banano]

so do i have to take the downpipe shields, or did some one manage to take the downpipe without removing them,...is it doable...also how you guys manage to take the lowe bolts of the lower maniflod shield with a socket from under the car???

[zatara]

Was that english?

[thatsmrgimp2u]

Originally Posted by dr_banano so do i have to take the downpipe shields, or did some one manage to take the downpipe without removing them,...is it doable...also how you guys manage to take the lowe bolts of the lower maniflod shield with a socket from under the car???

Mine came out without having to remove the shields that attach to the downpipe itself. Wiggle twist pull repeat... Wait a sec... And the lower manifold shield? The shield underneath the exhaust manifold? I dont even remember that thing but im confident if i had to take it off it came out from the top.

[dr_banano]

nothing still second intent and couldnt take that bolt out tomorow iam gonna rip it off but manage to pb blast the downpipe to manifold bolts but really they are a pita i didnt thought to be facing this sh...t at all ...

[foodtime]

What will happen if I drive with the heat shields off for about 5 miles. I plan to remove the shields at home and then the DP at the shop. I want to prevent from people staring at me while on the lift. I want to be in and out

[wankular]

The car will be a little warm, that's all. The 02 sensors are actually easier to get out when the car is warm so the five miles is a good idea.

[Airman3454]

Dont be stressing about the O2 sensors. I was worried also until I read few how-to's and learned to spray EVERYTHING with some pb blaster repeatedly.

Drive to wherever you are removing the DP and allow the car to cool down but not totally. Spray the DP bolts and heatshield bolts with pb blaster, wait 15 minutes then slowly work them back and forth until you get them all out.

I didnt have a single problem with the heatshield bolts and I only had problems with one of the studs on the flange. Instead of the nut coming off it backed the whole stud out. All I did was apply thread sealant to all bolts, rebolt the aftermarket DP on and drove it for a while to burn off any residual PB or sealant.

Feel free to pm me if you need any other help.

[dr_banano]

well i did the install all good thanks god,i took the stock downpipe with the shields really easy peace of cake,. my only problem was with one of the studs of the flang while installing them one of them the bolt wasnt straight and it got stuck ,so when taking it out the stud came out with it so i got a spacer and put it and problem solved thanks god ..all seems good

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by dr_banano well i did the install all good thanks god,i took the stock downpipe with the shields really easy peace of cake,. my only problem was with one of the studs of the flang while installing them one of them the bolt wasnt straight and it got stuck ,so when taking it out the stud came out with it so i got a spacer and put it and problem solved thanks god ..all seems good

Glad it all worked out for you

[rfinkle2]

I love me some Dr. Banano posts.

[Ckmazdaspeed3]

Just did the second dp install on my car last night. I went from Catted cobb (donated to James Barone because of all he has done for me) and pit on a cnt catless. The funny thing is that the second dp you do on your car is a joke. If we were trying to hurry we probably could have done it in under an hour...top o2 sensor just twisted right out by hand lol (joels was the same when we switched out his turbo).

And heat shields? My car had heat shields? Haha.

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 I love me some Banano's

Fixed