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| Not Ranked : 0 score Depends if the nuts are seized to the studs, and how badly if they are. Do the prep work tonight and hit them with some PB Blaster. Then hit them again in the morning, run the car up to operating temp, then more PB Blaster. I've installed 2 downpipes and the nuts came off the studs like butter.
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![]() | | #123 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score but arnt the bolts under the heat shield that only comes off after the top O2 sensor is off? |
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![]() | | #124 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ah yeah, you're right. Just run the car up to temp in the morning (this helps in cracking the O2 sensor and downpipe nuts loose). Then... 1) Remove the upper manifold heat shield 2) PB the O2 sensor and remove it 3) Remove the downpipe heat shield 4) Remove the lower mani heat shield That should expose the nuts on the turbo and allow you to hit them with the PB. Let it set in for a little bit, then remove the nuts. I downloaded and read through every how-to I could find. The attached guide is the one I ended up using. It worked out perfectly.
__________________ 2011 MAZDASPEED 3 BNR: 352 hp / 342 ft-lbs K04: 296 hp / 343 ft-lbs BNR Supercars Stage 3 Turbo Aquamist HFS-4 Alcohol Injection Cobb Tuning AccesPORT • AccessTUNER Race KMD Tuning HPFP Internals v2.2 NGK 6510 Spark Plugs Bosch 3-Bar MAP Sensor Saikou Michi Oil Catch Can Grimmspeed 3-Port EBCS JBR TIGs • EGR Delete • Rear Sway Bar • RMM • PSMM • TMM HTP 3" TIP • Battery Tray SURE Motorsports 3" MAF • Shortcut • CounterShift • Anchors • AGS 621g Shift Knob Ultimate Racing Catted Downpipe • Test Pipe • Cat-Back Exhaust CP-e FMIC • SAFEseals Turbosmart Dual Port BOV PTP Injector Seal Studs EBC RedStuff Brake Pads • UPR Rotors Swift Spec R Springs Bilstein B8 Shocks SPC Performance Rear Camber Arms Tanabe Sustec Strut Tower Brace TWM Performance Full Replacement Shifter 5zïgen ZR+ 18x7.5 (Ceramic Bronze) Nitto NeoGen Tires Rally Armor Mud Flaps Morimoto 6000K HID Replacement Bulbs DDM Tuning 3000K HID Fog Lights Headlight Armor Yellow Fog Overlays Qualir QL-MZD723 Headunit Glowshift Mechanical Boost Gauge • A-Pillar Gauge Pod Aeroforce Dual Interceptor Gauges |
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![]() | | #125 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hey good deal, thanks. Im hoping the drive to my buddies house just a few min up the road is enough to do the trick. I think im gonna go back out and pb the O2 some more. Edit: Install is going smooth as hell right now. The top o2 came right off..thank you impact gun Im, done with top side i think just jacked up the car and sitting in class now -_- Last edited by dantes5823; 11-30-2011 at 02:41 PM. |
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![]() | | #126 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Well all is said and done. Took about 4 hours or so. Not bad..So much easier than i thought. I read around and saw people making it sound like a damn motor tear down. Wasnt bad at all. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I wish mine was that quick. Shit took ~10 hours IIRC, and that was with TWO people. A lot of time was wasted by trying to maneuver parts out of tight places, taking snack breaks, and not having the right tools available.
__________________ (310whp, 341 ft/lb wtq) 91 octane + 100% methanol JBR RSB, Stage2 OCC, Stage 2 SSP, IM TIG, 70D RMM, 70D PMM // DevilsOwn Stage 2 WMI kit + DO7 nozzle (MSF-prize) // COBB AP (Self-tune), XLE BPV // Corksport TMIC, SRI, TIP // Racing Beat Cat-back Exhaust // Denso Iridium ITV22 Spark Plugs // SURE TB TIG // Ultimate Racing Test Pipe // KMD HPFP Internals // TSW Nurburgring 18x7.5 ET45 Matte Black // SWIFT Spec-R Lowering Springs // |
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![]() | | #128 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Can someone post up which tools were needed? I am so tempted to attempt this now. |
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![]() | | #129 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score There should be a How-To on here as far as DP install. I've installed/uninstalled my CNT Catted DP several times ( 5 times to be exact). Corksport's installation instructions make it a lot easier since they suggest removing the alternator to get at the studs easier. I might try this on my next install once i get the Corksport Exhaust and DP cleaned out from blown turbo syndrome. It sounds a little more difficult but according to Corksport it doesn't take as long as compared to most other installs. You can find the instructions on their website.
__________________ 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 - Built Motor - GTX3071: SOLD 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport: Current DD |
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Cobb DP Review
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![]() | | #131 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yea i actually didnt use a whole lot. Granted my car only had i wanna say 4k miles on it... The thing i would say to make sure you have is a swivel head. After that it was a good extension some pb and time. We only stopped for a smoke break like 2, pizza break, a class i had to go to...and it was done. I think i actually had a harder time putting on the dp than taking the stock one off. The pain was the lower right nut on the flange cause of the way the dp was you couldnt get a socket on it to good. The top 02 came of with a few hits from a impact .Damn 10 hours.. thats a long ass time lol. But from the looks of it, i think everyone has a different experience. Some people back out their studs and other things that delay them. I had no delays and no hick ups. Everything came right off. I was amazed actually. Last edited by dantes5823; 12-03-2011 at 11:04 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score 5 hours. Downpipe = winning. Why the fuck did I wait this long. Stage 2 has transformed my car
__________________ 2010 MS3 - 13.42 at 107 - street tires - 306whp/338tq Moore automotive (dynojet) Roadcoursing > all http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GO-xoFpsgj4 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score 75% throttle? who does that? ![]() I'm either chillin or WOT baby, I have no traction in 2nd gear. love it
__________________ 2010 MS3 - 13.42 at 107 - street tires - 306whp/338tq Moore automotive (dynojet) Roadcoursing > all http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GO-xoFpsgj4 |
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![]() | | #135 | ![]() |
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And to the people talking about getting the nuts to come off without the studs, who cares if the stud comes out too? Some of mine do, and most others that I've seen as well... Never really seems to matter. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If your talking about just taking off an aftermarket downpipe, then yes i can believe that. But going from the stocker to an aftermarket and vice versa, its going to take longer than that, even with power tools. Most of the guys on here are using basic tools (like myself) and still pull it off in less than 4 hours. Plus I like to take my time and make sure everything is done correctly so there are no problems in the future. But like i said, that's just me.
__________________ 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 - Built Motor - GTX3071: SOLD 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport: Current DD |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I found mine was easier when all the studs backed out copared to my buddy who had 2 studs left in, and it was a bitch manoeuvring the cpe downpipe over the studs
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I wasnt really trying to brag, I was just saying that once the stocker is off the first time, it is simple... I'm sure anybody could do it that quick. The only tough thing about the stocker is that all of the bolts and o2 sensor are on super tight... I guess the cumbersome size is a bit of a pita too. It's not so much a how to that is needed, just a collection of tips for stuck bolts, not stripping the o2 sensor and that 1 bitch of the bolt on the bottom left of the turbo. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score thats the one that pisses me off the most. But with some caressing and a couple beers, it can be done at ease. I really need to put my DP and exhaust back on, problem being I must burn all the dry oil out of both. Sucks bc my plan was to pour gas in the exhaust, yet a friend reminded me gas burns black as hell and I dont think the neighbors will approve and call the Fire Department on me. But o well, im always looking to bust the neighbors balls
__________________ 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 - Built Motor - GTX3071: SOLD 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport: Current DD |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score For us, taking the stock DP out proved to be the hassle. Putting the CNT piece on took a fraction of the time lol
__________________ (310whp, 341 ft/lb wtq) 91 octane + 100% methanol JBR RSB, Stage2 OCC, Stage 2 SSP, IM TIG, 70D RMM, 70D PMM // DevilsOwn Stage 2 WMI kit + DO7 nozzle (MSF-prize) // COBB AP (Self-tune), XLE BPV // Corksport TMIC, SRI, TIP // Racing Beat Cat-back Exhaust // Denso Iridium ITV22 Spark Plugs // SURE TB TIG // Ultimate Racing Test Pipe // KMD HPFP Internals // TSW Nurburgring 18x7.5 ET45 Matte Black // SWIFT Spec-R Lowering Springs // |
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__________________ Fast cars are for straight lines. Corners are for fast drivers. 2006 Corvette Z06 - AKA "El Zorro" Sold: 2012 Evolution X GSR - 394awhp / 378awtq Sold: 2011 MS3 Hypnotic Tuned @ 322whp/370tq |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score failed at my attempt to install dp today. lost daylight and my vagina succumbed to the cold. do you remove the mounting bracket for the dp in there or leave it in there?
__________________ 2011 Black Mica MS3 NJSPEED3 Ported IM + other shit NJ NATOR NY 316.52 hp / 352.12 tq 93 oct K04@ Nator DC Dyno Day 11.10.12 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I think you should remove it. I'll be removing mine. Right after I figure out how to remove this rounded off bolt head. On the lower manifold heat shield right against the firewall one of the 10mm bolts just refused to come out and I ended up rounding it off. Any suggestions? |
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or at least a ratcheting breaker bar that would have cut down my install to about 4 hours instead of 8. did my install on ramps and it wasnt difficult at all removing or installing the new dp. Wiggling out the stock dp and hooking on the cobb dp took me probably 15 minutes total. Just those damn hard to reach bolts that you have to get at with the right angle while trying different combinations of extensions, u joint and breaker bar, were time consuming.
__________________ 2011 Black Mica MS3 NJSPEED3 Ported IM + other shit NJ NATOR NY 316.52 hp / 352.12 tq 93 oct K04@ Nator DC Dyno Day 11.10.12 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yea, its just that 1 bolt. When I put the new DP on, I had to use a tiny ass manual wrench and wrench it on from underneath the car. 1/10 of a rotation at a time...
__________________ 2010 MS3 - 13.42 at 107 - street tires - 306whp/338tq Moore automotive (dynojet) Roadcoursing > all http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GO-xoFpsgj4 |
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Gonna retorque the bolts soon How the hell do u torque that one? Just tight as possible with man strength?
__________________ 2011 Black Mica MS3 NJSPEED3 Ported IM + other shit NJ NATOR NY 316.52 hp / 352.12 tq 93 oct K04@ Nator DC Dyno Day 11.10.12 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Strong dick it
__________________ 2010 MS3 - 13.42 at 107 - street tires - 306whp/338tq Moore automotive (dynojet) Roadcoursing > all http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GO-xoFpsgj4 |
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