Battery Terminal Fuse Melted

[Cujo]

FYI: I have the @CorkSport battery box

Driving to work this morning I turned my heater on to be hit with the smell of burning plastic. I looked under to hood to see smoke/fumes coming from between the harness for the ECU and my positive battery terminal fuse. Upon closer look it seems that the fuse has turned brownish black and the wire below it is was starting to melt the connector handle that plugs into the ECU. I've been looking everywhere to fine a replacement for this part:



Please help. =[

V/R

[SofaKingAwesome]

This is a known issue, I'll post up the link at my desktop shortly, if someone hasn't already by the time I get there.

[Shwa]

Don't have a link unfortunately, but I went thru the dealer when mine was fried. Described it and they had it stocked

[SofaKingAwesome]

WTF!!! My car almost caught on fire!!

[Cujo]

I went to disconnect the battery this morning and found this... fml. And way to fix this w/o getting a whole new harness?

[Cujo]

Update:

Ordered new terminal ($25)
Trimmed back the burned end and some of the plastic
Used Coke to clean off the corrosion (to my surprise the wire was fine excluding the charred part)
At first I tried to crimp on a 8 gauge connector being everyone and their mother said it was the size of the wire used. Turns out the 8 gauge cap was too small and I had to go with a 6 gauge one which fit perfectly.
Hooked everything back up and the car starts perfectly. I'm monitoring everything to make sure it doesn't happen again but trying to fit the stock battery in the original @CorkSport; battery box is a tight fit and a PITA to keep taking the battery in and out of.

TL;DR the wire was fine, use 6 gauge not 8 gauge connector, car still runs.

[jdmage_mx5]

So I'm probably lacking in the reading department but what is the cause of this "common" problem? Just wondering if there is something we should do to prevent it from happening.

[Yatta]

I’ve read through this and the previous thread, it has happened to folks that have (re)moved their batteries; both using and not using ECU/battery relocation kits; I have yet to see a definitive, but it looks like improper reconnection of the two wires (the nut/ring connector) might lead to arcing/excessive heat... some dielectric grease and proper torque on the nuts might go a long way to preventing this. Much like the Gen2 spoiler, check your nuts.

[Djohns]

Well this isn't reassuring seeing as how I just got their battery box.... I'd prefer if nothing melted

[Yatta]

Originally Posted by Djohns Well this isn't reassuring seeing as how I just got their battery box.... I'd prefer if nothing melted

I don’t think it has anything to do with the box per se, it has a lot to do with what is needed to install the box (or an intake).

[Djohns]

Originally Posted by Yatta I don’t think it has anything to do with the box per se, it has a lot to do with what is needed to install the box (or an intake).

Can you elaborate on that one a little? I bought the box because I plan to run a 3.5" intake

[Yatta]

Originally Posted by Djohns Can you elaborate on that one a little? I bought the box because I plan to run a 3.5" intake

so the positive terminal has two posts on it with nuts, I think the big issue here is that they are somehow getting loose; the wiring is already on the smallish side for what could go through it, a poor connection is just going to draw more through less (which equals heat).... I have yet to see where anyone has explained what caused the problem... and some with exactly the same configuration have had no issue at all.... the ECU case isn’t shorting the terminal (its plastic on that side) and it always seems to start on positive post.

I am working/planning on doing an ultra capacitor/small mower AGM battery conversion on mine, so will be watching this but I don’t believe its the box causing it; much like replacement of HPFP doesn’t cause hardline failure (unless damage is done to the hardline ).

Originally Posted by NCspecV81 At least you caught it before this How I fixed mine. Like @rfinkle2; said. I used a 150amp circuit breaker and some terminals that aren't a fire waiting to happen.

that is beautiful. I especially like that meth tank, looks familiar.

[rfinkle2]

You can replace that fuse with a 12v circuit breaker (like those used in high end / high power audio builds)

[NCspecV81]

At least you caught it before this







How I fixed mine. Like @rfinkle2; said. I used a 150amp circuit breaker and some terminals that aren't a fire waiting to happen.

[Djohns]

That engine bay is absolutely beautiful. Well done.

[Djohns]

Now that I see what you guys are talking about, I have that too. Still on stock battery box as of now. I should probably figure this out before I'm playing with fire.

[Yatta]

@NCspecV81; how did you wire the breaker? the ‘stock’ config has two leads, each has a fuse link (that clearly isn’t doing its job some times) is there a bar or separate outputs? just curious as I would have to believe Mazda split them for a reason.. (good or bad).

[NCspecV81]

Originally Posted by Yatta @NCspecV81; how did you wire the breaker? the ‘stock’ config has two leads, each has a fuse link (that clearly isn’t doing its job some times) is there a bar or separate outputs? just curious as I would have to believe Mazda split them for a reason.. (good or bad).

I used an unfused distro of 2-4AWG in and 1-0AWG out. They technically aren't "split". The starter wire as a fusible-link while the fuse box does not and is joined downstream after the fusible-link. I chose to fuse them both for safety purposes. I didn't want anymore fires in my engine bay. Especially around pure meth.

[Yatta]

Originally Posted by NCspecV81 I used an unfused distro of 2-4AWG in and 1-0AWG out. They technically aren't "split". The starter wire as a fusible-link while the fuse box does not and is joined downstream after the fusible-link. I chose to fuse them both for safety purposes. I didn't want anymore fires in my engine bay. Especially around pure meth.

This might be the best way anyhow, if something shorts well enough to pop a fusable link it should all be shut off... the two links out might be what is allowing a fire to start... again subjective/opinion but one hard link/cut might be best... I am considering a 16V/83F ultra capacitor fed by a 18 a/h lithium battery... I really don’t want that shorting out.... it will cut about 30 lbs from my front end and give me longer/better winter performance.. I hope.

[Djohns]

I wonder if me being modded I can get this fixed under warranty. Probably not since it's a 2010. Only 40k miles though. Or if it's even a problem because it's been like that since I bought the car about 2 years ago. @NCspecV81; I'm also interested to hear how you did it because I'd like to avoid problems before they begin

[Djohns]

I think I may end up going this route. It seems like a really good idea

[NCspecV81]

If you go the route I did I went with a 150 amp breaker and works just fine.

[Djohns]

Originally Posted by NCspecV81 If you go the route I did I went with a 150 amp breaker and works just fine.

I would love to know more about your setup. Did you by any chance make a thread of how you did it or anything like that?

[NCspecV81]

Originally Posted by Djohns I would love to know more about your setup. Did you by any chance make a thread of how you did it or anything like that?

Not really. It's pretty simple. A double 4awg in and single 0awg out (Ground distribution block so it's not fused) to 150amp stinger circuit breaker that feeds 0awg to knukonceptz positive battery terminal.

[Djohns]

Originally Posted by NCspecV81 Not really. It's pretty simple. A double 4awg in and single 0awg out (Ground distribution block so it's not fused) to 150amp stinger circuit breaker that feeds 0awg to knukonceptz positive battery terminal.

What distribution block did you use? I'm looking into this option now and seeing if I'll be able to make it work with the CS battery box.

[NCspecV81]

Originally Posted by Djohns What distribution block did you use? I'm looking into this option now and seeing if I'll be able to make it work with the CS battery box.

I used a T-spec ground distribution block. I liked it b/c it was small, compact and to the point. You could go fancier if you wanted.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...12DB-1124.html

[Djohns]

Thanks man. You've been a huge help!

[blackms3_71]

@NCspecV81; where did u get ur valve cover, cover? Coving the spark plug wires

[Djohns]

Amazon has the exact same one for $27 with free shipping and its in stock

[blackms3_71]

Originally Posted by Djohns Amazon has the exact same one for $27 with free shipping and its in stock

Thanks. I didnt look around.

[Djohns]

Originally Posted by blackms3_71 Thanks. I didnt look around.

No problem

[MJA-09MS3]

Im having the same issues. what do i need to do to fix this

[Djohns]

Originally Posted by MJA-09MS3 Im having the same issues. what do i need to do to fix this

Two options. #1 read this thread and fix it yourself without being spoon fed, or #2 let it happen, since it’s possible that will be the best thing to happen to your speed.

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by MJA-09MS3 Im having the same issues. what do i need to do to fix this

C'mon man. I spoon fed you a thread with the same issue in it, as well as a SOLUTION. If you can't be bothered to fucking read it. There's no way to help you.

[shamie]

Did you read all of this thread?

Disconnect that (fusible link) from the battery and check to see if there is continuity through it. If there is no continuity the FL is blown and you will need to cut it off and replace it with another fuse or circuit breaker.

[Mazdaspeed3KHP]

My battery terminal has the same issue. White wire burning up but the fuse link isn't blown. Stock setup, so strange wish I knew how to prevent such issue. Will try fixing it with the above method.